Paint and Painting Problems
Jose
1)I was experimenting with various primer sprays on my minis and
unknowingly sprayed one model with oil-based white paint and another with
an exceedingly thick primer coat. Anybody knows how to remove the gunk from
the models ?
(serves me right for going cheap on paint !)
2) I tried using tech pens for doing my own eldar runes (the symbols on a
guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
3) Any cheaper alternatives to Citadel Paints (I kinda like most of them
but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
Thanks
/Jose
PhdFaust
>unknowingly sprayed one model with oil-based white paint and another with
>an exceedingly thick primer coat. Anybody knows how to remove the gunk from
>the models ?
>(serves me right for going cheap on paint !)
Easy-Off oven spray works the best.
>2) I tried using tech pens for doing my own eldar runes (the symbols on a
>guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
>them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
>or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
I guess it depends on the type of ink you used in the pens. India ink
should be permament. Also, try a spray varnish and start with just a light
dusting to hold down the ink. When its dry you can go back and add a few more
coats.
>3) Any cheaper alternatives to Citadel Paints (I kinda like most of them
>but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
>
Ral Partha or Horizon. Most of their colors are very opaque and they are only
$1.75 for a 3/4 oz. bottle.
.
"Paint for the Paint God!!!!"
Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic & Gallery
Come in & see the doctor!
http://members.aol.com/phdfaust/index.htm
Demon
> Couple of Q's
>
> 1)I was experimenting with various primer sprays on my minis and
> unknowingly sprayed one model with oil-based white paint and another with
> an exceedingly thick primer coat. Anybody knows how to remove the gunk from
> the models ?
> (serves me right for going cheap on paint !)
>
I find nail polish remover to be the best paint stripper, If the model has
plastic parts though don't leave it in long, but with the oil base primer...I
don't know.
> 2) I tried using tech pens for doing my own eldar runes (the symbols on a
> guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
> them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
> or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
>
I just use the decals GW sells. be sure to let them dry for a few hours before
you seal them or they get all screwed up.
> 3) Any cheaper alternatives to Citadel Paints (I kinda like most of them
> but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
>
I hate the citidel paints, I use Partha paint, most gaming stores carry it.
> Thanks
> /Jose
Hope I helped
Demon
RLobinske
>guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
>them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
>or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
>
>but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
>
>/Jose
>
>
For the runes, make sure you use a good indelible ink. Overcoats should be
misted on in several coats, that should help the problem. Alternatively, you
can buy blank decal paper from hobby shops to make your own decals. You can
draw the design on the paper with a tech pen or you can print the design on
with a laser printer (don't use an ink jet printer, it will not work). You
then seal the design down with Microscales "Liquid Decal Film", allow to dry
and then use as a regular decal. You can also brush the liquid film over old,
bittle decals to make them usable.
For alternatives, I have had good results from Gunze Sanyo, Tamiya and Polly S
paints and have heard good things about Armory and Ral Partha but haven't tried
them.
Blank Dave
>
>1)I was experimenting with various primer sprays on my minis and
>unknowingly sprayed one model with oil-based white paint and another with
>an exceedingly thick primer coat. Anybody knows how to remove the gunk from
>the models ?
>(serves me right for going cheap on paint !)
I prefer Castrol Super Clean, you find it in the automotive section. Nail
Polish Remover can melt plastic, Easy Off stinks, CSC does neither. Dillute
it 50% with water and sent the offending figures for a coupla hours bath
(depends on how bad the paint is from 2-24 hours) and just wash off
>2) I tried using tech pens for doing my own eldar runes (the symbols on a
>guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
>them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
>or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
I've used india ink proper with a art/straight pen. Pan in the @$$, but it
stayed on, and I didn't even seal it.
>3) Any cheaper alternatives to Citadel Paints (I kinda like most of them
>but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
Can help you there, seeing as I don't like Testors and Tamiya, Polly S and
Sangyo aren't available, and Ral Partha is hard to find too (most gaming
stores around here prefer to carry Citadel. I also found the Ral Partha's
to be too flat for my taste.
Blank Dave
"At least when we have a World Series we invite the other countries"
John Cleese
Mark Schwartz
>Couple of Q's
>1)I was experimenting with various primer sprays on my minis and
>unknowingly sprayed one model with oil-based white paint and another with
>an exceedingly thick primer coat. Anybody knows how to remove the gunk from
>the models ?
>(serves me right for going cheap on paint !)
Any decent commercial paint remover found in any retail hardware store
will strip off paint. As long as you painted a metal model -- if the
model you wish to strip is plastic, a strong commercial paint remover
may melt the plastic model as well.
>2) I tried using tech pens for doing my own eldar runes (the symbols on a
>guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
>them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
>or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
I've never used Citadel's Matte varnish. As stated in a previous
posting, I have used Testor's Dullcoat Lacquer for *years*, and I
strongly recommend it. If you spray it on *lightly*, and use two to
three coats, it will not strip off inks or washes. Let it dry
thoroughly between applications. Also, and this is CRITICAL,
allow any inks or washed to dry for AT LEAST 12 hours before applying
lacquer. I have found lacquer will damage inks and washes if they are
not allowed to *completely* dry.
>3) Any cheaper alternatives to Citadel Paints (I kinda like most of them
>but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
I use, and like, Citadel's paints. But I greatly prefer Armory's
spray primers, both Black and White, over their Citadel counterparts.
>Thanks
>/Jose
Sincerely,
Mark Schwartz
m...@in.net
Ananda Banttari
> >but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
> >
>
> $1.75 for a 3/4 oz. bottle.
I use Liquitex Artist's Colors, medium viscosity. I buy the 2 oz. bottles for
about $2.50. The color names will take a bit of getting used to if you
normally deal with "snakebite" and "goblin" for color names, but there
*are* equivalences. For example, goblin green is really chrome oxide green.
(One of these years I'll get around to doing the color-by-color equivalence
chart and post it on a web site.)
Honestly, you can get by with ten colors of paint.
* yellows: one greenish, one orangey
* blue: one greenish, one purplish
* red: one orangey, one purplish
* black
* white
* fleshtone (just to make life easier)
* silver (for armor, weapons, etc.)
If you need a nice intermediate color, say green, mix the greenish yellow
with the greenish blue. If you want a duller green, mix the orangey
yellow with the purplish blue. Add black and/or white to the mix, and
you can get any color you want.
I read the book "Blue and Yellow Don't Make Green" by Michael
Wilcox and used those principles with the colors above for quite a
while. Once I knew which colors I used a lot of (purples, some
browns, that chrome oxide green for the bases), I did go and get
some bottles of those to make life easier.
HTH,
Ananda
ana...@ix.netcom.com
Michael Falcon-Gates
>
>Couple of Q's
>
>1)I was experimenting with various primer sprays on my minis and
>unknowingly sprayed one model with oil-based white paint and another with
>an exceedingly thick primer coat. Anybody knows how to remove the gunk from
>the models ?
>(serves me right for going cheap on paint !)
Soak 'em in a 50/50 mix of water and Pine-Sol for a few hours, then scrub with an
old toothbrush. If they're plastic, don't leave 'em in for longer than about eight
hours, the Pine-Sol will dissolve the plastic if you do.
>2) I tried using tech pens for doing my own eldar runes (the symbols on a
>guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
>them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
>or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
Look for tech pens containing "pigment-based" ink, or get a really fine liner brush
(liners are long, come to a very fine point, and are VERY soft-- you can get one at
places that sell "real" artists' brushes) and just paint the symbols on with that.
>3) Any cheaper alternatives to Citadel Paints (I kinda like most of them
>but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
Just about everything is cheaper than Citadel paints. Other "hobby" paints also cost
about $1.99US per bottle-- but the bottles hold more paint than Citadel. You can
also get "craft" paints that work fairly well; my favorite brands in these are
"Delta Ceramcoat" and "Aleene's". You can get those at fabric stores sometimes, and
craft stores ALWAYS have 'em.
My personal favorite paints are Polly Scales, one of the hobby brands. They cover
very well, go on VERY thin, and they kind of eat brushmarks-- you put on a brushfull
of paint, you see the brushmarks and say, "Oh, bother, I'll have to put on six more
coats to cover that", wait five minutes and the marks are just kind of... not there.
-m
--
Not Microsoft's alternative, etc.
shadow
<letys...@sprint.ca> writes
>Couple of Q's
>
>1)I was experimenting with various primer sprays on my minis and
>unknowingly sprayed one model with oil-based white paint and another with
>an exceedingly thick primer coat. Anybody knows how to remove the gunk from
>the models ?
>(serves me right for going cheap on paint !)
>
>guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
>them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
>or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
brush. Can you put the runes on over the top of the varnish without them
being ruined?
>
>3) Any cheaper alternatives to Citadel Paints (I kinda like most of them
>but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
>
>/Jose
>
>
Lord of the Shadows
"If it ain't broke...fix it"
"Yes, we are all idiots, but inevitably, so are you"
Thrasher
<blank...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Can help you there, seeing as I don't like Testors and Tamiya, Polly S and
>Sangyo aren't available, and Ral Partha is hard to find too (most gaming
>stores around here prefer to carry Citadel. I also found the Ral Partha's
>to be too flat for my taste.
I like some of the Ral Partha paints. For instance, RP Copper is one
of the only metallic copper paints I've ever seen that actually looks
like copper, and not red-tinged gold. I tend to use both Citadel and
Ral Partha. For clear coating I use Krylon Matte Spray. It's cheap,
readily available, and leaves the figures satin instead of totally
flat. I find it doesn't blur metallics as much as some other brands
I've tried either.
Oliver Booms
> Couple of Q's
>
> 1)I was experimenting with various primer sprays on my minis and
> unknowingly sprayed one model with oil-based white paint and another with
> an exceedingly thick primer coat. Anybody knows how to remove the gunk from
> the models ?
> (serves me right for going cheap on paint !)
Hmmmm. Never had the problem. I don't think that even an oil-based primer
coat totally ruins the miniature - as long as you don't use gloss paint! I
myself prime my miniatures with oil-based white and black spray paint or
spray primer, and for the last three years I've had no problems with that.
The biggest problem is that you won't probably be able to use inks directly
on the primer coat, but painting primarily with inks a rather rare
technique, anyway. Your average acrylics - or Cit acrylics, at least - can be
painted right onto the primer coat even if it is oil-based.
>
> 2) I tried using tech pens for doing my own eldar runes (the symbols on a
> guardian's helmet) and after letting them "dry" for a few hours, sprayed
> them with Citadel Matt Varnish. Virtually all the runes got ruined one way
> or the other. Any suggestions for doing your own symbols.
I'm using a tech pen, too, and I found that covering the runes with a little
superglue before varnishing works pretty well. I fact, I cover the prominent
edges of models - those that are touched the most often when picking the
mini up like sword blades, foot tips beyond the base, stuff like this - with
superglue as well before varnishing, as the glue is even tougher than the
varnish.
Just be sure that you don't touch the mini and don't varnish before the glue
has dried (believe me, it can be *very* irritating if you've got a fully
painted mini sticking to your finger...)
>
> 3) Any cheaper alternatives to Citadel Paints (I kinda like most of them
> but the white isn't opaque enough for covering any color) ?
Uhhh, the Cit White I'm using is perfectly fine as far as opacity is
concerned (it rather dries to quickly). As for other paints, well I've tried
some Partha, mainly because they had some colours I liked which weren't
available from GW (Paladin Blue is a favorite of mine). If you use a lot of
natural colours for your minis, you could try them. (Partha have a very nice
deep copper or reddish bronze tone which is way better than any metallics
I'm using from citadel (Partha Gold, however, isn't much good)
For the basics, however, I wouldn't recommend Partha. The colors are *very*
flat, which looks nice for naturals but rather odd (to me, at least) for the
brighter colours. One warning from me: Partha Black is the crappiest paint I've
encountered in eight years of miniatures painting. I tried priming a couple
of minis with it (Warzone trenchers, as I wanted them to look a bit
grittier), but the colour went off along with two subsequient layers when I
started drybrushing (no, I didn't use a toothbrush for drybrushing). I don't
have those problems with Cit black. I've yet tot ry out artist's acrylics.
I've heard some pretty good things about those, but right now, I've got all
the paints I need.
Hope I could help you.
Bis dahin -
'da Bomster.
(bo...@uni-muenster.de)
Danke, Sie waren ein tolles Publikum.
PhdFaust
>encountered in eight years of miniatures painting. I tried priming a couple
>of minis with it (Warzone trenchers, as I wanted them to look a bit
>grittier), but the colour went off along with two subsequient layers when I
>started drybrushing (no, I didn't use a toothbrush for drybrushing). I don't
>have those problems with Cit black.
>
>
Black does take a while to cure, something like a couple of hours. Then its
permant.
>For the basics, however, I wouldn't recommend Partha. The colors are *very*
>flat, which looks nice for naturals but rather odd (to me, at least) for the
>brighter colours.
Ral Partha makes very bright colors. As to being flat, all acrylic
paint are, including Citadel. Ral partha even make a Florecent color line if
you want them REALLY bright!
RLobinske
>>flat, which looks nice for naturals but rather odd (to me, at least) for the
>
>>brighter colours.
>
> Ral Partha makes very bright colors. As to being flat, all acrylic
>paint are, including Citadel. Ral partha even make a Florecent color line if
>you want them REALLY bright!
>.
>
The citadel colors tend to be more of a pure color than the most others.
Paints like Gunze Sanyo and Tamiya tend to have colors based on military specs,
these tend to be a bit neutralized from the pure color, hence they look duller.
BTW, several paint companies put out semi-gloss and gloss acrylics.
PhdFaust
>specs,
>these tend to be a bit neutralized from the pure color, hence they look
>duller.
> BTW, several paint companies put out semi-gloss and gloss acrylics.
>
>
realistic results than what you get with Ral Partha or Citadel paints. But we
were talking about differences in brightness between Partha and Citadel, which
I was saying that there is no difference.
Blank Dave
*very*
>>flat, which looks nice for naturals but rather odd (to me, at least) for
the
>>brighter colours.
>
> Ral Partha makes very bright colors. As to being flat, all
acrylic
>paint are, including Citadel. Ral partha even make a Florecent color line
if
>you want them REALLY bright!
I wouldn't want them that bright. But I also found the Ral Partha's to be
too flat for my taste, but they are nice paints especially the flesh tones
(I'll get back to that) Like their yellow is just dead, I find a little
more vibrancy in the Citadel.
When I paint my garage kits (like the big marine you(Phd Faust) have, but
mine are mostly anime women *^o^*), I ran into a problem......I can't mix
flesh tones to save my life. I tried the Citadel, but they were too flush,
too much red/pink in them, and made the women look like they were having a
whole body blush (none of mine are naked and/or doing THAT!). On the other
hand the Ral Parthas have very convincing flesh tones, but again they seemed
to lack "warmth," where the Citadels had too much. What I ended up doing
was laying down a coat or two of my desired Citadel flesh tone (usually
bronzed flesh), and airbrushed in the shadows and highlite, not worrying to
blend them together, and to have "too mush contrast." But like I said that
makes the kit too flushed, and kinda patchy now with the hilites. So I
would turn around and spray a thin coat of my desired Ral Partha flesh tone
on (usually Caucasian, Damsel Flesh is just too pink), and that would help
blend the shadows and hilites, and dull down the flush of the Citadel, while
"warming up" the Ral Partha. I've been very happy with this technique thus
far.
KHARN66
Rogue Trader Maitreya
> I tend to use both Citadel and
> Ral Partha. For clear coating I use Krylon Matte Spray. It's cheap,
> readily available, and leaves the figures satin instead of totally
> flat. I find it doesn't blur metallics as much as some other brands
> I've tried either.
I use Krylon as well, as the satin finish is harder than flat sprays,
and if you want to have a dull finish on some or all of your model, you
can then go over it with either paint-on or spray-on dull-finish.
Skinks look very nice when inked in many stages over the base paint and
then left with a satin finish. I hand paint over the leather with
dullcoat and the weapons with glosscoat. Don't underestimate the
importance of the proper finish!
--
Rogue Trader Maitreya
Faithful Servant to the Emporer
and Corsair Extraordinaire
http://mems.cwru.edu/~dan/personal/wh40k.html