[model] Basing minis
Timmy
Ok well being a lazy git the best amount of basing my minis tend to get is a
splash of goblin green. Though with plans to start a 40k army next month I
though some nice bases would be good. I have experimented a few times with
sand, not a lot of success there...
Anyways I am looking for a bit of advice on the best way (or your personal
preffered way) to base minis. Glue you use, what sort of things you schlock
on the base, ie static flock, litttle rock stuff I can get at a railway
shop, linchen etc... All of these items I was going to purchase and try,
but all coming in $10 bags I thought against it till I hear some others
ideas, as the money could be spent on additional blisters...
Mine own experiments have been with super glue and a crappy craft glue that
drys to quick and leaves snot balls everywhere, also the sand don't stick to
good, and is pretty unpaintable... I would not mind my bases to look
somethign like GW's, the lil rocky bits with a bit of green sticking out
here and there, or somethign suitably jungleish/woodish....
Timmy
Chern Ann
paint it dark gray or dark brown, then drybrush either with light gray/white
or light brown/sand. Then stick static grass on it in patches to simulate
it growing in tufts. Looks pretty good and can be done assembly line.
Or you could try fine sand again, painted green, inked with brown then
drybrushed yellow. Also looks quite good, you can check out examples at my
site for both (the latter in the Talisman section).
I tried flock in the past, but the scale is just wrong for it, just too
chunky usually.
--
Chern Ann Ng
the Little Brush - Miniatures gallery
http://www.littlebrush.com
Hildr Odinsdottir
with the fine GW sand. After the bases dried, I painted the sand with
Flesh Wash, and then drybrushed Vomit Brown on top of that. IMO, the
bases look pretty good.
Deb
CoJ Bearer of the Circlet of Power and the Sacred Green Hat #7
It was so much easier to blame it on Them. It was bleakly depressing to
think that They were Us. If it was Them, then nothing was anyone's
fault. If it was Us, what did that make me? After all, I'm one of Us.
I must be. I've certainly never thought of myself as one of Them.
We're always one of Us. It's Them that do the bad things.
~Terry Pratchett, Jingo
Samuel Campbell
Warrior and Halfling forces I use dark angels green on the base, i cover the
top of the base with wood glue, I then dip the mini in fine brown/light
brown rock and then shake off excess rocks, then i dip the base in static
grass. Gives a very nice look. I haven't decided what to base my skele's and
Tyranids like yet.
Super glue is a waste on bases. Use wood glue, it is cheap per volume, dries
clear and it holds like putty.
Use a dark colour as the primer on your base as it tends to draw attention
back to your model and don't overload your base with crap, no chunky rocks,
only fine sand.
Another idea for undead i seen in WD is to by tiled card and cut it out to
fit the base.
My Skele's will probably be based with dark grey and light/dark grey sand
with tufts of static grass here and there.
--
Samuel Campbell
Housedad and Gamer
"Timmy" <q992...@mail.connect.usq.edu.au> wrote in message
news:3b945cf1$1...@news.connect.usq.edu.au...
Erik Connell
watered down layer of PVA but has someone has already said, it looks chunky.
I've now got some really fine green flock that I think was produced by geo
hex, it looks a bit better.
For my 40K army I'm using real dirt sprinkled over a layer of PVA then
coated with watered down PVA. Paint it black and drybrush with a dark and
light grey. It's a simple, quick process and I've found it looks great with
my urban terrain.
Erik C
Timmy <q992...@mail.connect.usq.edu.au> wrote in message
news:3b945cf1$1...@news.connect.usq.edu.au...
>
Richard Lobinske
>splash of goblin green.
Ack!! Why does anyone use this hideous shade of green for bases? Does the
grass in England actually look like that? Try using a more olive green for
bases.
>Anyways I am looking for a bit of advice on the best way (or your personal
>preffered way) to base minis.
For my use, start with using epoxy putty to attach the metal figures to the
base slots, fill the slot with putty, the set the base down on wax paper and
press the figure in place. Remove the paper and trim off excess putty, placing
some on top of the figures tab, then sculpt the putty down around the tab and
slot. Paint the base olive drab, for many figures, I leave it at that,
otherwise, apply a 1:1 white glue:water mix and Woodland Scenics fine flocking,
then apply a spray of water with a drop of detergent, this will wick the glue
up throughout the flocking and make a stronger bond.
Death before dishonor,
Nothing before coffee
Shameless website Plug: Military Life on Saipan, 1944-1945
http://members.aol.com/RLobinske/Saipan.html
This is a cookie-free website
Geoff
Timmy wrote in message <3b945cf1$1...@news.connect.usq.edu.au>...
>
>Ok well being a lazy git ....................
<snip>
Gives Little Timmy a smack up the back of the head for being such a lazy
little git, now get of your ass and go to GW's site
( www.games-workshop.com ) and go to the commumity section, look at the GW
approved sites. There are some that deal with painting, converting and
basing your miniatures ( Dr Faust's site http://paintingclinic.com/ ). Or
you could go to your nearest GW store and ask the staff to show you some of
the methods they use.
Geoff
" In The Land Of The Blind The One Eyed Man Is King "
>
Justin Taylor
does a nice job) and water.
Flock on bases IMHO looks terrible. Just stick to painting them until you
have more experience.
I normally paint the base a darkish colour and then drybrush it to add
highlights with a lighter colour.
Should be fine unless you are going in for the Golden Demon awards.
--
Justin Taylor
Veni Vidi Vici
Quality Transfers
http://www.3vwargames.co.uk
Jon Todd
j:)n
"Timmy" <q992...@mail.connect.usq.edu.au> wrote in message
news:3b945cf1$1...@news.connect.usq.edu.au...
>
RT Maitreya
> base slots, fill the slot with putty, the set the base down on wax paper and
> press the figure in place. Remove the paper and trim off excess putty, placing
And I learn yet another trick from the Lob.
Keep 'em coming, boss, we DO listen.
RTM
Jake Staines
"Timmy" <q992...@mail.connect.usq.edu.au> wrote in message
news:3b945cf1$1...@news.connect.usq.edu.au...
>
a
> splash of goblin green. Though with plans to start a 40k army next month
I
Heh. I *still* don't understand why they don't just cast the damned things
in green plastic...
> though some nice bases would be good. I have experimented a few times
with
> sand, not a lot of success there...
>
Sand is easy - you just have to remember a couple of things:
* Paint the base the desired colour *first*. (In the middle colour, eg
Goblin Green).
* Use PVA (or white, or elmers, or whatever you lot are calling it these
days) glue to stick the sand on. *Don't* water it down or the sand will come
off again fairly quickly...
* wash the sand with a generous (that means *lots*) splash of ink in a dark
shade of whatever colour you're going for your bases. (Eg
whatever-the-hell-Ork-Flesh-ink-is-called-these-days)
* Paint heavily over the sand in the medium colour (eg Goblin Green).
* Drybrush with a lighter shade (eg, for that old-school GW look, goblin
green mixed with yellow).
* Optional final step - varnish heavily. Never found that it made much
difference myself, but some swear by it.
> Anyways I am looking for a bit of advice on the best way (or your personal
> preffered way) to base minis. Glue you use, what sort of things you
schlock
> on the base, ie static flock, litttle rock stuff I can get at a railway
> shop, linchen etc... All of these items I was going to purchase and try,
> but all coming in $10 bags I thought against it till I hear some others
> ideas, as the money could be spent on additional blisters...
>
Simple answer - buy Static grass, but anything else get from your garden
and/or kitchen. Dry earth, having been ground up and mixed with PVA glue,
actually makes quite reasonable basing material - although most of the earth
in our garden is quite sandy, so you may get differing results...
> Mine own experiments have been with super glue and a crappy craft glue
that
> drys to quick and leaves snot balls everywhere, also the sand don't stick
to
> good, and is pretty unpaintable... I would not mind my bases to look
When you say 'crappy craft glue', you mean rubbery stuff like Copydex,
right? Undiluted PVA (the stuff they sell as 'Wood Glue' is good) is great
for sticking flock and sand and stuff.
> somethign like GW's, the lil rocky bits with a bit of green sticking out
> here and there, or somethign suitably jungleish/woodish....
>
If you want to do rocky bits with grass sticking out, apply sand as above
but paint it brown and don't highlight it. Then paint an even layer of glue
over the top of your mini, sprinkle (and I mean *sprinkle*, from a height
and fairly randomly) some larger grit (like the stones that model railway
shops sell for going in between the sleepers) onto the base, then grab a
pinch of static grass and dab it over the mini. You get patchy coverage from
the sprinkling of grit, and the static grass sticks in between the patches,
giving it a rough and natural look. You can then paint the grit if you wish,
but I try and use earthy-coloured grit to avoid getting paint on the static
grass.
Lastly, if you buy GW flocking materials, you may find that stuff stays on
the top of your base easier when you've had the figure in the base gold
plated, or if you fold up banknotes and superglue them to the bottom of the
base - the stuff seems to have an affinity to anything valuable... ;-)
--
Jake
Richard Lobinske
Glad you found it useful.
Richard Lobinske
>off again fairly quickly...
The trick is a two-stage process if you are using sand (or railroad ballast).
Apply a 1:1 white glue:water mix, then apply the sand. Immediately, spray with
water with a drop of liquid detergent (a cheap trigger hand sprayer works well)
to soak the sand. The detergent breaks the surface tension, so the thinned
white glue will wick up through the sand, making a solid bond with each grain.
>Paint heavily over the sand in the medium colour (eg Goblin Green
Excuse, but on what planet is Goblin green a "medium" color?
Timmy
> Another idea for undead i seen in WD is to by tiled card and cut it out to
> fit the base.
Yeah I had done this for pavers on my mordhiem warbands, I am currently
making a d elves for the lustria add on for mordhiem so was looking for
suiably green and junglish look....
T
Timmy
I said
> >Ok well being a lazy git the best amount of basing my minis tend to get
is a
> >splash of goblin green.
"Richard Lobinske"
> Ack!! Why does anyone use this hideous shade of green for bases? Does
the
> grass in England actually look like that? Try using a more olive green
for
> bases.
Um actually I am in Australia..... Um goblin green is used as I tend to have
made use of darker greens on my minis such as sea dragon cloaks etc, this
green tends to not appear on my minis oft... I did use a dark green from a
tamiya paint range a while back but that was only because it was the exact
shade as my ping pong tabel (my original battlefield)
Cheers on the rest of the advice though....
T
Timmy
"Geoff"
> Gives Little Timmy a smack up the back of the head for being such a lazy
> little git,
Oy!!! try that again and I will bite you....
> now get of your ass and go to GW's site
> ( www.games-workshop.com ) and go to the commumity section, look at the >
GW approved sites. There are some that deal with painting, converting and
> basing your miniatures ( Dr Faust's site http://paintingclinic.com/ ). Or
> you could go to your nearest GW store and ask the staff to show you some
of
> the methods they use.
Cheers for the links though, shall check em out this weekend most likely....
T
Timmy
"Justin Taylor"
> Flock on bases IMHO looks terrible. Just stick to painting them until you
> have more experience.
Yeah I agree, I have a friend who has used it on his D angels.... Bleah!!!
> I normally paint the base a darkish colour and then drybrush it to add
> highlights with a lighter colour.
>
> Should be fine unless you are going in for the Golden Demon awards.
Well maybe not golden demon...... Hum yes, actually I was going to use this
lil teeny stoney things from the railway shop in my area, so I did not have
to paint what I glued on...
T
Timmy
"Jake Staines"
> Heh. I *still* don't understand why they don't just cast the damned things
> in green plastic...
Well of course then they would not be getting the $3.50 (aussie $) out of me
for a paint pot... Actually I lie, still on my original pot of gobbo green,
pop top and all....
> Sand is easy - you just have to remember a couple of things:
> * Paint the base the desired colour *first*. (In the middle colour, eg
> Goblin Green).
> * Use PVA (or white, or elmers, or whatever you lot are calling it these
> days) glue to stick the sand on. *Don't* water it down or the sand will
come
> off again fairly quickly...
> * wash the sand with a generous (that means *lots*) splash of ink in a
dark
> shade of whatever colour you're going for your bases. (Eg
> whatever-the-hell-Ork-Flesh-ink-is-called-these-days)
> * Paint heavily over the sand in the medium colour (eg Goblin Green).
> * Drybrush with a lighter shade (eg, for that old-school GW look, goblin
> green mixed with yellow).
Ah okay, shall give this a try.....
> * Optional final step - varnish heavily. Never found that it made much
> difference myself, but some swear by it.
Eh probably not, means I would also have to get varnish....
> Simple answer - buy Static grass, but anything else get from your garden
> and/or kitchen. Dry earth, having been ground up and mixed with PVA glue,
> actually makes quite reasonable basing material - although most of the
earth
> in our garden is quite sandy, so you may get differing results...
Hum, some of my friends have used flock I never thought it to look to
good... Static Grass??? that like lil plastic flock??? The earth here
bouts is this really lumpy red stuff, Volacanic mountainous sorta place. so
not real good for bases....
> When you say 'crappy craft glue', you mean rubbery stuff like Copydex,
> right? Undiluted PVA (the stuff they sell as 'Wood Glue' is good) is great
> for sticking flock and sand and stuff.
Pah don't rightly know, I think it is sooky wood glue, my ma gave it to me,
so I am none to sure, Actually I don't think it is pva, as it is clear, and
goes snotty pretty quick, hum PVA I remember playing with that in my wood
work days, shall hit the hardware store I think.....
> If you want to do rocky bits with grass sticking out, apply sand as above
> but paint it brown and don't highlight it. Then paint an even layer of
glue
> over the top of your mini, sprinkle (and I mean *sprinkle*, from a height
> and fairly randomly) some larger grit (like the stones that model railway
> shops sell for going in between the sleepers) onto the base, then grab a
> pinch of static grass and dab it over the mini. You get patchy coverage
from
> the sprinkling of grit, and the static grass sticks in between the
patches,
> giving it a rough and natural look. You can then paint the grit if you
wish,
> but I try and use earthy-coloured grit to avoid getting paint on the
static
> grass.
Oh so you have to paint the rocks??? Hum I was just going to chock in a
crap load of lil rocks.... Hum maybe I should buy some fine grit and then
do your drop on at random slightly biger chunks, hum add linchen should be
cool......
> Lastly, if you buy GW flocking materials, you may find that stuff stays on
> the top of your base easier when you've had the figure in the base gold
> plated, or if you fold up banknotes and superglue them to the bottom of
the
> base - the stuff seems to have an affinity to anything valuable... ;-)
LOL!!!
Well actually the supplies at the lil trains shop is pretty steep too....
T
Jerry Bryant
>but all coming in $10 bags I thought
Hmm you should be able to buy bags of simple flock a lot cheaper than that.
Here is some of the ways i do my bases
first off i like to keep my bases simple, i know some people like to plaster on
wheels, broken guns, and the odd skull or helmet, NOT ME! i found that over the
course of playing i run into a lot of different types of terrain and tables.
Even the color green varies SO keep your bases simple. Not only does it quicken
the time but then they can blend in better with a larger varity of tables.
the quickest way is to glue sand on the base with elmers glue. Do this before
you base coat your figs. I use flat black enamel (spray can) the enamel really
holds the sand into place. Paint a dark green ( i prefer non GW paints for the
msot part) then dry brush a coats of lighter green over that. real simple.
Ok you want a flock type base? Well i bought a green flock, please PLEASE buy a
natural green flock. I seen one kid buy a super cheap flock and the green was
so bright it bordered on the verge of neon.
I then take a cigerettee, a couple of leaves and a spoon of coffee. Toss all of
that with your flock in a blender or a coffee bean grinder. Set the dial on the
highest setting and grind that up very fine. Now use it as you would any flock.
The green/browns look more realistic that a plain green.
>Mine own experiments have been with super glue and a crappy craft glue that
>
Well if you want to flock your bases before you put the fig on them, the best
way is with testors model glue. Just spread the glue on the plastic base and
let it sit for a few min. this softens up the plastic. Then press it into a
paper plate with some snad on it. The sand pushes deep into the plastic and
once it dries it will never come off :)
hope that helps
*******************************************************************
Plague Fleet- A fandom site for Warhammer 40k & Battle Fleet Gothic
http://www.geocities.com/plaguefleet
John Hwang
>"Justin Taylor"
>> Flock on bases IMHO looks terrible. Just stick to painting
>> them until you have more experience.
>
>Yeah I agree, I have a friend who has used it on his D
>angels.... Bleah!!!
Disagree. Flock looks simply *great* on bases. Provided that the base has
been textured with sand, dirt, grit *before* adding bits of flock.
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Justin Taylor
been gained first?
Geoff
Timmy wrote in message <3b9564b5$1...@news.connect.usq.edu.au>...
>
>"Geoff"
>> Gives Little Timmy a smack up the back of the head for being such a lazy
>> little git,
>
>Oy!!! try that again and I will bite you....
>
>
>Cheers for the links though, shall check em out this weekend most
likely....
>
>T
Unless I am mistaken, you are at St Lucia, why not jump a ride into the city
and talk to Chris, Sam or Doof about how they do their bases. Or you can
jump out to Mt Gravatt to Rob, Dave and Chris.
John Hwang
>experience has been gained first?
I dunno. "I agree painting can look good but perhaps not until a bit of
experience has been gained first?"
I see generic flocking as no different than simply painting the entire base in
goblin green. Uninspired approaches will always have an uninspiring effect.
The point is to *think* about what you want the base to look like, and *then*
to do it. Not just to slap something together.
Saint Portia_EH
4) Question your actions. Question your skill. Question your sanity.
... That is all.
--
/ ========
"Sometimes you've just got to lift up the horse's tail
and stare the problem right in the face." -Lloyd Bingham
======== /
-EH (remove "no2spam~" for reply address)
Timmy
Unless I am mistaken, you are at St Lucia, why not jump a ride into the
city and talk to Chris, Sam or Doof about how they do their bases. Or you
can jump out to Mt Gravatt to Rob, Dave and Chris.
Um no I am at, USQ here in Toowoomba Qld... Um where am I meant to be
heading??? Mt Gravatt that sounds familiar.... <scratches head>
T.
Geoff
Geoff
" In The Land Of The Blind The One Eyed Man Is King"
Timmy wrote in message <3b96c1ff$1...@news.connect.usq.edu.au>...
Timmy
"Geoff"
> My mistake, I thought you were at UQ in Brisbane.
Nah tis cool... Um but I do have a g/f down there I may be going to see
over the hols so where were the places you mentioned?? They proper gw
stockists???
Tim
Jake Staines
"Richard Lobinske" <rlob...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010904173304...@mb-ch.aol.com...
> >Paint heavily over the sand in the medium colour (eg Goblin Green
>
> Excuse, but on what planet is Goblin green a "medium" color?
>
On the planet that has goblin-green coloured grass, of course. Noone said
miis had to look vaguely realistic.
If you're painting grass, and you want to stick to GW stock paints (which
would be a good idea, if you're only using GW paints, so that your mnis
don't all have different coloured bases), then you can easily get away with
painting sand completely in goblin green, giving it an ork-flesh wash, then
drybrushing it in whatever-the-hell they now call that old light green
colour [1].
--
Jake
[1] The one thing I hate about GW's 'upgrades' in paints is the way they
keep changing the names. That, and the fact they give you less paint for
the... the *two* things I hate about GW's 'upgrades' in paints is the way
that they keep changing the name, and the fact that they give you less paint
for the same money. And the way they keep coming up with stupider and more
awkward pot designs. The *three* things that I hate about... ;-)
Richard Lobinske
>miis had to look vaguely realistic.
Sorry, I find trying to have more realistic colors on the base to be more
visually appealing. Goblin green (or Zinc chromate green) is visually abusive
to me as a color to represent any kind of vegetation. If you are going to a
lot of effort to make and impressive or realistic paint job on the figure, why
go for such a hideous color on the base?
>If you're painting grass, and you want to stick to GW stock paints (which
>would be a good idea, if you're only using GW paints, so that your mnis
>don't all have different coloured bases)
I don't consider GW paints to be a good idea, they are overpriced, ;medium
grade paint in the industries worst bottle. I just stay consistant with what
paint I use, mostly Olive Drab for bases, since scale military paints are based
on the FS color chips, you can get very good consistancy between brands (just
make sure you don't switch between paints based on FS and ANA standards).
Jake Staines
> >On the planet that has goblin-green coloured grass, of course. Noone said
> >miis had to look vaguely realistic.
>
> Sorry, I find trying to have more realistic colors on the base to be more
> visually appealing. Goblin green (or Zinc chromate green) is visually
abusive
> to me as a color to represent any kind of vegetation. If you are going to
a
> lot of effort to make and impressive or realistic paint job on the figure,
why
> go for such a hideous color on the base?
It's never looked *that* bad to me - but then I'm a CompSci student and a
wargamer, how the hell am I supposed to know what *grass* looks like?!? ;-)
And anyway, I never really bothered looking to get a *realistic* paint job
on my 40K figures, just an attractive one. I mean - if you're going to go to
all the trouble of a realistic paint job, why waste it on such an
unrealistic looking miniature? ;-)
> I don't consider GW paints to be a good idea, they are overpriced, ;medium
> grade paint in the industries worst bottle. I just stay consistant with
I'll give you the bottle, but I've always quite liked GW's paints. I've
certinaly never had any particular gripe about the paint itself - just the
rest of it - you know, the bottle, the names, the prices and the volume...
what
> paint I use, mostly Olive Drab for bases, since scale military paints are
based
> on the FS color chips, you can get very good consistancy between brands
(just
> make sure you don't switch between paints based on FS and ANA standards).
>
Ah, but here in the UK you have to go into Railway modelling shops for
paints like that, and railway modelling shops are *scary*. ;-)
--
Jake
Richard Lobinske
>paints like that, and railway modelling shops are *scary*. ;-)
>
Hey, I have to go to a broad-spectrum hobby shop with cars, ships, planes,
trains, RC, and cameras, not that is scary.
Jake Staines
> >Ah, but here in the UK you have to go into Railway modelling shops for
> >paints like that, and railway modelling shops are *scary*. ;-)
> >
>
> Hey, I have to go to a broad-spectrum hobby shop with cars, ships, planes,
> trains, RC, and cameras, not that is scary.
>
Heh... I bow to your superior bravery in venturing into places of such odd
and alien nature... ;-)
--
Jake
RGMW Irregular/#99/Unforgiven and lovin' it ;-)
John Hwang
>"Richard Lobinske" <rlob...@aol.com> wrote ...
>> >On the planet that has goblin-green coloured grass, of course.
>> >Noone said miis had to look vaguely realistic.
True. RT makes specific notes on how what appear to be garish colors are
actually "natural" colors off Terra...
>> Sorry, I find trying to have more realistic colors on the base to be
>> more visually appealing. Goblin green (or Zinc chromate green) is
>> visually abusive to me as a color to represent any kind of vegetation.
Maybe it represents a desert "sand" color.
>> If you are going to a lot of effort to make and impressive or realistic
>> paint job on the figure, why go for such a hideous color on the base?
Also a good point. Hence, not wasting time with a half-cooked basing approach.
>It's never looked *that* bad to me - but then I'm a CompSci student
>and a wargamer, how the hell am I supposed to know what *grass*
> looks like?!? ;-)
Don't you have access to the Web? Search for "grass" and "plants".
>And anyway, I never really bothered looking to get a *realistic* paint
>job on my 40K figures, just an attractive one. I mean - if you're going to
>go to all the trouble of a realistic paint job, why waste it on such an
>unrealistic looking miniature? ;-)
Heh. Still, for a minis painter, it's because the mini exists and can be
painted well.
>> I don't consider GW paints to be a good idea, they are overpriced,
>> medium grade paint in the industries worst bottle. I just stay
>> consistant with
>
>I'll give you the bottle, but I've always quite liked GW's paints. I've
>certinaly never had any particular gripe about the paint itself - just the
>rest of it - you know, the bottle, the names, the prices and the volume...
Disagree here. The current lot of GW paint is terrible, and I'll agree with
all of the points made: overpriced, mid-grade paint, in a bottle which is more
hindrance than help. Now the old "Coat D'Armes" paint in the pop-top bottles
was much more acceptable: almost reasonably priced, decent paint, in a decent
bottle.
>>what paint I use, mostly Olive Drab for bases,
I stick with dark brown and warm off-blacks. Very neutral and good at blending
on any surface or terrain.
>> since scale military paints are based on the FS color chips, you can
>> get very good consistancy between brands (just make sure you don't
>>switch between paints based on FS and ANA standards).
True.
>Ah, but here in the UK you have to go into Railway modelling shops for
>paints like that, and railway modelling shops are *scary*. ;-)
Just concentrate on the paint and the scenery stuff. Ignore the rest and all
will be well.
Richard Lobinske
>>paints like that, and railway modelling shops are *scary*. ;-)
>
>Just concentrate on the paint and the scenery stuff. Ignore the rest and all
>will be well.
Actually, don't forget the publications either, you can pick up a lot of good
model building information that way. 1/35 scale armor is a kitbashers delight
(especially for orks), O (1/48) scale builidngs work well for 40K, N (1/160)
works well for Epic. Plus, you can find a lot better range of model tools,
plus things like RTV rubber for molds, casing resin, sheet styrene, brass
compoments and lots of other stuff.
John Hwang
>>>Ah, but here in the UK you have to go into Railway modelling shops
>>>for paints like that, and railway modelling shops are *scary*. ;-)
>>
>>Just concentrate on the paint and the scenery stuff. Ignore the rest and
>>all will be well.
>
>Actually, don't forget the publications either, you can pick up a lot of good
>model building information that way. 1/35 scale armor is a kitbashers
>delight (especially for orks), O (1/48) scale builidngs work well for 40K,
>N (1/160) works well for Epic. Plus, you can find a lot better range of
>model tools, plus things like RTV rubber for molds, casing resin, sheet
>styrene, brass compoments and lots of other stuff.
All true. Tho I associate most of the stuff you've just mentioned with general
hobby shops, rather than just model railroads.
Still, check out the railroad scenery books -- they're excellent for terrain
and basing any GW product.
Jake Staines
"John Hwang" <johnhw...@cs.com.no.com> wrote in message
news:20010910000533...@ng-cg1.news.cs.com...
> : "Jake Staines" ja...@zeropoint.demon.co.uk wrote:
> >It's never looked *that* bad to me - but then I'm a CompSci student
> >and a wargamer, how the hell am I supposed to know what *grass*
> > looks like?!? ;-)
>
> Don't you have access to the Web? Search for "grass" and "plants".
>
That's not what the web's for!
Anyway, last time I had to do that, it was this hideous thing apparently
called 'research' for a group programming project with the intention of
making a design tool for some arbitrarily laid out open-plan
terrain-building project I heard referred to as 'garden'... ;-)
> >And anyway, I never really bothered looking to get a *realistic* paint
> >job on my 40K figures, just an attractive one. I mean - if you're going
to
> >go to all the trouble of a realistic paint job, why waste it on such an
> >unrealistic looking miniature? ;-)
>
> Heh. Still, for a minis painter, it's because the mini exists and can be
> painted well.
>
It can be painted well without being painted realistically. I love
painting - when I can find the time for it - but whilst I've spent hours
getting my highlighting technique down and understanding the deeper zen of
ink washes, I've never really tried that hard to get GW figures looking
*realistic*. BTech minis, on the other hand... ;-)
> Disagree here. The current lot of GW paint is terrible, and I'll agree
with
> all of the points made: overpriced, mid-grade paint, in a bottle which is
more
> hindrance than help. Now the old "Coat D'Armes" paint in the pop-top
bottles
> was much more acceptable: almost reasonably priced, decent paint, in a
decent
> bottle.
>
OK, I probably should confess that the last time I bought any of GWs paint
was probably two years ago... it was literally *just* as they brought the
12.5 ml clear-plastic squat hexagon prism with crappy
never-stays-done-up-clogs-and-leaks-like-anything screwtop lids out. I
thought the paint was different, but after getting used ot it I didn't have
any problems with it. Does *smell* a little funny, mind.
Richard Lobinske
>general
>hobby shops, rather than just model railroads.
Where I'm at, you rarely find shops that just cater to model railroads, to
economically survive, they usually have to carry railroad, plastic kits and
usually RC.
Ducalguard
>all of the points made: overpriced, mid-grade paint, in a bottle which is
>more
>hindrance than help.
Are you talking paint quality? I personally think the current line of GW paint
is some of the best around. I like the fact that I can paint a figure and
handle it without it rubbing off after the fact (before varnishing it). The
lids need a bit of redesign. The indentation holds paint and thats a problem
with resealing the lid...and it causes paint dryout too much. Still, I think
its much better than those old snap off lids that they used to have...the ones
that would help the bottle tip over, hold paint and splatter it as you snapped
the lid off. My list of complaints over the old bottles are endless. The best
design in a bottle has to go to Vallejo paints. The eyedropper/squeeze bottle
works so well for this hobby (and the paints are actually quite nice...I use
their black exclusively now).
> Now the old "Coat D'Armes" paint in the pop-top bottles
>was much more acceptable: almost reasonably priced, decent paint, in a
>decent
>bottle.
Hated these bottles...but its funny because these were the exact same paints as
GW's last line of paints...exactly...down to the manufacturer and colors.
Thats why GW chained manufacturers, because too many other companies started
producing "their" paint (Target, Coat d'armes, etc).
Doug
Jake Staines
"Ducalguard" <ducal...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010910163638...@mb-md.aol.com...
> The
> lids need a bit of redesign. The indentation holds paint and thats a
A *bit* of a redesign? The lids need the guy who invented them to be hung
[1], drawn and quartered as an example to others!
> problem
> with resealing the lid...and it causes paint dryout too much. Still, I
Actually, I think it probably causes paint dryout at exactly the level GW
want... but maybe I'm being too cynical.
...nah...
> design in a bottle has to go to Vallejo paints. The eyedropper/squeeze
> bottle
That *has* to be nice. Any idea on a UK stockist/mail order?
--
Jake
RGMW Irregular/#99/Unforgiven and lovin' it ;-)
[1] Why is it that people are hung, drawn and quartered, but if they don't
get drawn and quartered than they get hanged? ;-)
Peter Cowderoy
> [1] Why is it that people are hung, drawn and quartered, but if they don't
> get drawn and quartered than they get hanged? ;-)
>
Because in the latter case the rope's fatal, in the former the victim
merely hopes like hell it is...
'In Ankh-Morpork even the shit have a street to itself...
Truly this is a land of opportunity.' - Detritus, Men at Arms
John Hwang
>>Disagree here. The current lot of GW paint is terrible, and I'll agree
>>with all of the points made: overpriced, mid-grade paint, in a bottle
>> which is more hindrance than help.
>
>Are you talking paint quality?
Yup. It dries too fast to go on as smooth as I'd like.
>I personally think the current line of GW paint is some of the best
>around. I like the fact that I can paint a figure and handle it without it
>rubbing off after the fact (before varnishing it).
All minis can be handled if they've been properly primed.
>The lids need a bit of redesign.
Yeah, like GW needs to be "a bit" of more customer-friendly.
>The indentation holds paint and thats a problem with resealing the
>lid...and it causes paint dryout too much.
Assuming you can even open the stupid thing in the first place...
>Still, I think its much better than those old snap off lids that they used to
> have...the ones that would help the bottle tip over, hold paint and
>splatter it as you snapped the lid off.
Really? Spatter isn't a problem for me. And my paints are still good. So I
don't see such a problem, especially as the old bottles are larger.
>My list of complaints over the old bottles are endless. The best
>design in a bottle has to go to Vallejo paints. The eyedropper/squeeze
>bottle works so well for this hobby (and the paints are actually quite
>nice...I use their black exclusively now).
Not available locally. I stick with the old paints and Floquil.
>> Now the old "Coat D'Armes" paint in the pop-top bottles was
>>much more acceptable: almost reasonably priced, decent paint, in a
>>decent bottle.
>
>Hated these bottles...but its funny because these were the exact same
> paints as GW's last line of paints...exactly...down to the manufacturer
>and colors. Thats why GW chained manufacturers, because too many
> other companies started producing "their" paint (Target, Coat d'armes,
>etc).
IIRC, Coat d'armes only came out after GW stopped using them.
Richard Lobinske
>paint
>is some of the best around.
I disagree, the GW paint that I have tried was pigment sludge that had to be
thinned out just to use, coverage was good with some streaking. As I said, a
mid-grade paint, certainly lot the best.
>I like the fact that I can paint a figure and
>handle it without it rubbing off after the fact (before varnishing it).
What paints have you used that did that? I have never had problems with
Modelmaster, Gunze Sanyo, Tamiya, Liquitex, Polly S or Floquil paints.
>The
>lids need a bit of redesign. The indentation holds paint and thats a problem
>with resealing the lid...and it causes paint dryout too much.
No, the design needs to be pitched into the garbage and started over from the
beginning. The lid retains too much paint, leading to paint getting on the
threads and upper seal, cause a poor seal. Speaking of seals, they really
don't have one, the concept of a seal is to use a different, more flexible
material so that it is compressed slightly when the bottle is closed, producing
a tight closure. Using the same brittle plastic for both lid and bottle was
plain stupid, making things break much more easily when the lid gets stuck.
The best I have found are the soft plastic lids and glass bottles like Tamiya
and Gunze Sanyo use, there is a little bit of flex in the lid that can help you
to work the lid loose if it does get stuck.
> Still, I think
>its much better than those old snap off lids
Had little experience with them, so can't comment.
>The best
>design in a bottle has to go to Vallejo paints. The eyedropper/squeeze
>bottle
>works so well for this hobby
Haven't seen them in my area, though I have heard good things about them from a
number of sources.
Justin Gaskins
> Are you talking paint quality? I personally think the current line of GW paint
> is some of the best around. I like the fact that I can paint a figure and
> handle it without it rubbing off after the fact (before varnishing it). The
> lids need a bit of redesign. The indentation holds paint and thats a problem
> with resealing the lid...and it causes paint dryout too much. Still, I think
> its much better than those old snap off lids that they used to have...the ones
> that would help the bottle tip over, hold paint and splatter it as you snapped
> the lid off. My list of complaints over the old bottles are endless.
At least the old paints didn't dry out as quickly. I still have some old bottles,
which I use regularly. They are over 5 years old and paint like new. As compared to
the new paints, which have a life of about 6 months.
RT Maitreya
> >Still, I think its much better than those old snap off lids that they used to
> > have...the ones that would help the bottle tip over, hold paint and
> >splatter it as you snapped the lid off.
>
> Really? Spatter isn't a problem for me. And my paints are still good. So I
> don't see such a problem, especially as the old bottles are larger.
The hex bottles have much tighter lids than the cot d'arms
original rounds. I have real problems with my "v2 paints"
with hex bottles and flip tops. Those spatter.
> IIRC, Coat d'armes only came out after GW stopped using them.
I also thought this was the case.
RTM
RT Maitreya
> At least the old paints didn't dry out as quickly. I still have some old bottles,
> which I use regularly. They are over 5 years old and paint like new. As compared to
> the new paints, which have a life of about 6 months.
I still use paints that are 12 years old. Metal
lids on glass, plastic old GW, plastic lids on
glass, all kinds of paints from ages past that
still work GREAT.
I have used up three bottles of paint in my life,
and have lost due to drying and spilling only 6.
4 of those 6 have been the new bottles, just in
the last year. I fucking hate the new bottles.
They suck even with upsidedown storage and vaseline
in the threads. They just suck.
RTM
Justin Gaskins
> I still use paints that are 12 years old. Metal
> lids on glass, plastic old GW, plastic lids on
> glass, all kinds of paints from ages past that
> still work GREAT.
>
> I have used up three bottles of paint in my life,
> and have lost due to drying and spilling only 6.
> 4 of those 6 have been the new bottles, just in
> the last year. I fucking hate the new bottles.
> They suck even with upsidedown storage and vaseline
> in the threads. They just suck.
I agree. I don't know how many bottles of Chaos Black or Blood Red I've gone through
during my chaos army (those being the primary colors).
Qrab
<me...@purdue.edu> wrote:
I've had the same problem. And given that Chaos Black and Skull White are probably
the two most popular colors in the range, they seem to always be sold out. What
really sucks is when the bottle has dried after you've only used half the contents.
GW really needs to redesign those bottles.[1]
Be seeing you-
Qrab
[1]and lower the price or up the volume of paint.
Justin
> I've had the same problem. And given that Chaos Black and Skull White are probably
> the two most popular colors in the range, they seem to always be sold out. What
> really sucks is when the bottle has dried after you've only used half the contents.
> GW really needs to redesign those bottles.[1]
True. I don't think I've painted a single figure for my Chaos army that didn't include
Chaos Black, Bleached Bone and Skull White (must be used together to make the skulls look
right), and Boltgun Metal. And my army is red.
> Be seeing you-
> Qrab
> [1]and lower the price or up the volume of paint.
Lower price and lower volume. A greater volume just means a greater waste when it dries
out.
Richard Lobinske
>when it dries
>out.
Don't need to lower the volume if you have a bottle that seals properly.
Tamiya paints come in a much larger bottle that stay good until you scrape the
last residues from the bottom.
John Hwang
>Qrab wrote:
>> Qrab
>> [1]and lower the price or up the volume of paint.
>
>Lower price and lower volume. A greater volume just means a
> greater waste when it dries out.
Nooo!!!
When GW's price drops by 1/3 but they only give us 1/2 as much paint, I'll be
blaming *you* for the effective price increase. Especially as we'll still be
stuck with those stupid bottles which cause the paint to dry out.
What GW needs to do is to fix the stupid bottles, increase the volume, and
lower the price.
Qrab
johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) wrote:
> Justin me...@purdue.edu wrote:
> >Qrab wrote:
>
> >> Qrab
> >> [1]and lower the price or up the volume of paint.
> >
> >Lower price and lower volume. A greater volume just means a
> > greater waste when it dries out.
>
> Nooo!!!
>
> When GW's price drops by 1/3 but they only give us 1/2 as much paint, I'll be
> blaming *you* for the effective price increase. Especially as we'll still be
> stuck with those stupid bottles which cause the paint to dry out.
>
> What GW needs to do is to fix the stupid bottles, increase the volume, and
> lower the price.
Finally, something that both you and I completely agree on.
Be seeing you-
Qrab
John Hwang
I have the sneaking suspicion that it's more than just the two of us who agree
on this point. A *lot* more. :)
Justin
> When GW's price drops by 1/3 but they only give us 1/2 as much paint, I'll be
> blaming *you* for the effective price increase. Especially as we'll still be
> stuck with those stupid bottles which cause the paint to dry out.
I hope GW Marketing read this. And I want royalties.
John Hwang
Sure. As long as GW prints your address in WD so every player gets the
opportunity to, um, "thank" you in person...
Justin Gaskins
> Justin me...@purdue.edu wrote:
> >John Hwang wrote:
> >
> >> When GW's price drops by 1/3 but they only give us 1/2 as much paint,
> >> I'll be blaming *you* for the effective price increase. Especially as
> >> we'll still be stuck with those stupid bottles which cause the paint to dry
> >> out.
> >
> >I hope GW Marketing read this. And I want royalties.
>
> Sure. As long as GW prints your address in WD so every player gets the
> opportunity to, um, "thank" you in person...
As I've said before, it is online.