>I'll eat you alive!!!!!!!!!
normally, a person should not accept a proposition of such a delicate
nature from a stranger. perhaps we could exchange some steamy letters
first and then pictures. if everything is still going well, we could
rendevous at some cozy hideaway and after some suitable foreplay, you
could make good on your offer.
another internet romance blossoms. feh.
eric
Actually, I hear KMFDM in the background.. but then, I hear that all the time
to everything anyways, so that doesn't mean much...
------------------------------------
Matt
adrj...@aol.com
"Our societies are saturated with bloodlust, sensationlism, and violence
because of alienation from oneself's reality"
------------------------------------
I was thinking "Hollywood Hogan". Had a very WWF (or whatever they call it)
feel to it.
Oooh YEAH! I'm gonna pound your painting skills into a pulp! Oooooh
YEAH! - Randy "Miniature Man" Savage? =P
OVerLord
So then you _don't_ accept his challenge? : )
- Zippy T. "the Devil's Advocate" Cortex
I don't know from public challenges, but I sure wish I knew how these guys
manage these incredible quality paint jobs in such short time frames. The
only way *I* could paint a whole squad of anything in 4 hours is if I were
dipping the minis in a bucket of paint, shaking them off (more than three
times, and...well, you kno), and declaring them complete.
On a good day, it takes me on the order of four hours to paint a single
generic sort of space marine with single-color armor and a minimum of
detail and highlighting. Add a bit of Space Wolves furry bits and some
"touches", and I'm into the figure for an average of 8 hours. My Ulrik the
Slayer clocked in at a little under 15 hours, what with painting a banner
and all!
Of course, people have always told me I'm, you know, *slow*.
--
Bashar Schwinghammer
(Remove GROUNDED from my address to reply via e-mail)
>I don't know from public challenges, but I sure wish I knew how these guys
>manage these incredible quality paint jobs in such short time frames. The
>only way *I* could paint a whole squad of anything in 4 hours is if I were
>dipping the minis in a bucket of paint, shaking them off (more than three
>times, and...well, you kno), and declaring them complete.
well, i sacrifice results for speed. i could do Golden Demon or better
if i tried, but it isnt worth the time for generic figs. there are some
simple things you can do to speed your painting;
Distance Makes the Detail Dumber
When you are playing a miniatures wargame, you are not looking at
the miniatures at a distance of 2 inches from your nose. You may
paint that way and you may examine another person's paint job that
way, but you dont play that way. And the playing is the thing (well,
its a healthy portion of the thing). Instead of concentrating on
intensely small, hand painted details, consider ignoring tiny areas
and leaving them a plain base coat. Items that are small but prominently
displayed, such as grenades, belts, or jewels should be detailed.
Two or Three Color Method
Face it; minis look crappy when they are sporting 4 or more colors.
And i am refering to all colors here, including black, white, and silver.
When you go to paint a miniature, pick out 2 or 3 highly contrasting
colors and get the major areas with these. Harkening back to the
golden days of yesteryear (your elementary school art class), you may
remember something called a color wheel. contrasting colors lie across
from each other on the wheel... blue and orange, red and green, yellow
and purple. these are the basic 3 contrasting color pairs. white
looks best with cool or dark colors (black, green, blue, and purple)
and black looks best with hot or bright colors (white, red, yellow,
and orange). greys and browns are the hardest to use effectively.
base coat with one color and add details with another; for a space
marine, try painting the body blue and tracing some details using
orange (including painting a number on one shoulder and a symbol on
the other... and paint bolters and backpacks drybrushed silver).
Brilliant!
Never use dull colors. Yeah, yeah, the historical miniatures gamers
and the boring realism fanatics will whine about how no one with bright
orange armor would last a second on a battlefield. Tough! this is a
game, not real life. brighter colors make for nices pieces. dont use
pastels, washed tones, all black or all white, grey, or brown as the
main color for your entire army. It takes too much time to accurately
highlight and shade these schemes...
Decals... Nothing More than Decals...
Nothing beats a water slide transfer for getting a nice detail
quickly. if you are into using these (and you dont need to), you
can often find alternatives at the local railroad or model store.
Drybrushing; The Last Stroke in Painting
There is no technique which is more important than drybrushing.
Practice it when you can. The primary use is in painting metallic
areas... paint black first, then drybrush silver. But this is also
the primary way you achieve highlighting of small, highly textured
areas. use the base coat color with a dot of white mixed in...
multiple passes with successively lighter shades will work wonders.
I'm Gonna Wash That Color All Over That Mini
Washing is a technique you must learn. It is never popular to praise
GW for anything on this forum, but i will say that they make an ideal
line of washes. buy these even if you have a preference for other paints.
Washing is a tricky business and should be relegated to only 2 basic
uses... first and foremost, washing is used to emphasize a weak color.
weak colors most often occur as a result of drybrushing or painting
over another color. by applying a wash, you will reinforce and subtley
shade the surface. second, "glazing". this refers to painting a large
area of a color with a wash of the same color. this will strengthen
the main color and (if there is a slight difference between wash and
base) some excellent shading.
What Evil Trick is Needed for Highlighting? The Shadow Knows...
Lastly, striking contrast can add a lot to some miniatures. Space
Marines are not those miniatures, but there are others (esp in WFB).
Normally, I would insist you prime white to bring out the bright colors.
But, you cant prime black and then heavily drybrush the entire miniature
with white... probably twice. This will leave ample dark crevices which
will highlight your miniature. Drybrush the base coats over the white.
What about a basic black mini? Never paint in basic black to start with!
Instead, find a nice dark grey and basecoat with that, then wash with
Black Wash. it may take two coats. but this will produce much better
results in a fraction of the time. both of these techniques i call
shadowing...
eric
> So then you _don't_ accept his challenge? : )
quite.
eric
Insolent cur! I challenge you to a test of brutish insults!
Anyway, I've always felt (despite who may or may not believe me) that my
display pieces aren't quite as enjoyable to look at as my play-only pieces.
For instance, I have a few beautiful Chaos terminator conversions that are far
superior to the majority of my collection, but I tend to gaze upon (well, you
know, when I'm thinking and whatnot) my camoflage pants and black armored Blood
Axe Orks more often, and I like them more.
As for the warning against dull colors, I strongly disagree. Any miniature
can work within its own physical context and how you organize the color scheme.
As for drybrushing, I have to say that by and large it's a fairly amateurish
technique. The only things I drybrush are vehicles, and then only if I'm
applying something like chainmail over black. Most real colors look best with
highlights and no drybrushing, a technique I picked up some years ago from two
of the damned best painters in this hemisphere (and since one of them won
numerous Golden Demon Awards, huck-pa to you! 8P).
~Minion
President, Minion Inc.
members.aol.com/new420/index.htm
>
> Distance Makes the Detail Dumber
>
Yeah, but painting the figure RIGHT doesn't make it look dumb.
> Two or Three Color Method
>
> Face it; minis look crappy when they are sporting 4 or more colors.
This is stupid.
> And i am refering to all colors here, including black, white, and silver.
> When you go to paint a miniature, pick out 2 or 3 highly contrasting
> colors and get the major areas with these.
Another stupid concept. Sorry, blue on red is hard to look at.
>
> Brilliant!
>
> Never use dull colors. Yeah, yeah, the historical miniatures gamers
> and the boring realism fanatics will whine about how no one with bright
> orange armor would last a second on a battlefield. Tough! this is a
> game, not real life.
100% correct. Brighter colors are better. I'm a Historical gamer, so
I have to be careful, but the 40K you can go nuts with the color.
Bright looks good, and is another reason to prime with white.
> Decals... Nothing More than Decals...
>
The Decals are great. I'm known for painting the decal because it's
not BRIGHT enough! Who wants a dull yellow decal? Just paint it!
>
> Drybrushing; The Last Stroke in Painting
>
Awesome. A must learn technique for all miniatures gamers.
>
> I'm Gonna Wash That Color All Over That Mini
>
I don't do this much as it tends to darken more than anything else.
Clay
Insert silly tag line here..
Hoorah!!
Oh really, I'm a miniature gamer and I don't give a flying fig about
this painting stuff. But I shouldn't have revived the ghosts of the
long forgotten paint war. Sorry but I could not resist resisiting your
statement :)
Sincerely,
Paul Friedman
> dont use
> pastels, washed tones, all black or all white, grey, or brown as the
> main color for your entire army. It takes too much time to accurately
> highlight and shade these schemes...
I'm not disagreeing with Eric here, but when I read this it made me
think of something really interesting that few people may know. I was
talking with my friend Chaz, who was the fella that brought Kev Adams
into GW way back when, and HE was talking about Kev. Many of you may
know who Kev is in that he sculpted a huge number of Orcs and Orks for
GW, more Orcs for Heartbreaker, more Orcs for Harlequin, and I think has
recently hooked up with FASA for something or another.
Anyway, the point is that when Chaz first met Kev, Kev wasn't sculpting
yet, but was painting. But Kev is also color-blind. So everything that
Kev painted was in black, white & grey. I've never seen such a thing,
but it sounds really freakin' cool! Anybody else every see something
like this? Or try it?
Warm Regards,
-WarpEyes
--
Aaron 'WarpEyes' Overton, President, DemonBlade Games
warp...@demonblade.com http://www.demonblade.com
Go Figure
>Oh really, I'm a miniature gamer and I don't give a flying fig about
>this painting stuff.
well, you are missing out on some of the most enjoyable aspects of
the hobby.
eric
>Yeah, but painting the figure RIGHT doesn't make it look dumb.
and what is "right"?
>> Face it; minis look crappy when they are sporting 4 or more colors.
>
>This is stupid.
i love you, too. your helpful advice inspires us all.
>Another stupid concept. Sorry, blue on red is hard to look at.
i see. well, everyone has an opinion. dont like them together,
dont use them together. perhaps try yellow...
eric
>As for the warning against dull colors, I strongly disagree. Any miniature
>can work within its own physical context and how you organize the color scheme.
i am giving advice for the novice, not the elite. dull colors make
wonderful schemes if done correctly; they are harder to do correctly.
they take too much time and are often too fussy when stressing speed
over appearance. dont agree? fine.
>As for drybrushing, I have to say that by and large it's a fairly amateurish
>technique. The only things I drybrush are vehicles, and then only if I'm
>applying something like chainmail over black. Most real colors look best with
>highlights and no drybrushing, a technique I picked up some years ago from two
>of the damned best painters in this hemisphere (and since one of them won
>numerous Golden Demon Awards, huck-pa to you! 8P).
drybrushing is extremely fast and produces effects on the order of your
highlighting, a much more difficult, practice intensive method. we were
discussing speed, not perfection.
eric
> Eric Jome wrote:
>
> > dont use
> > pastels, washed tones, all black or all white, grey, or brown as the
> > main color for your entire army. It takes too much time to accurately
> > highlight and shade these schemes...
>
> I'm not disagreeing with Eric here, but when I read this it made me
> think of something really interesting that few people may know. I was
> talking with my friend Chaz, who was the fella that brought Kev Adams
> into GW way back when, and HE was talking about Kev. Many of you may
> know who Kev is in that he sculpted a huge number of Orcs and Orks for
> GW, more Orcs for Heartbreaker, more Orcs for Harlequin, and I think has
> recently hooked up with FASA for something or another.
>
> Anyway, the point is that when Chaz first met Kev, Kev wasn't sculpting
> yet, but was painting. But Kev is also color-blind. So everything that
> Kev painted was in black, white & grey. I've never seen such a thing,
> but it sounds really freakin' cool! Anybody else every see something
> like this? Or try it?
Back in the early years of this century, photographic film was
relatively insensitive to red light, and particularly sensitive to blue.
So it was common practice for new machinery, even railway locomotives,
to be specially painted for the official photographs, using various
shades of grey, chosen to reprsent how the official colour scheme should
look.
--
David G. Bell -- Farmer, SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.
> Eric Jome wrote:
>
> > dont use
> > pastels, washed tones, all black or all white, grey, or brown as the
> > main color for your entire army. It takes too much time to accurately
> > highlight and shade these schemes...
>
I've never seen such a thing,
> but it sounds really freakin' cool! Anybody else every see something
> like this? Or try it?
>
> Warm Regards,
> -WarpEyes
>
Yes! There was a WWII game at a Historical Convention many years ago
that had US Marines vs. Japanese. The ENTIRE game was painted in
shades of grey, because that's what the old war movies looked like!
Even the terrain! What's cool is that you couldn't see the Japanese
troops who where hidded in the terrain...
Painting is where it's at. This hobby is NOTHING if you don't paint.
> In article <6hlec3$r95$1...@news.onramp.net>,
> Clay Smith <clay....@nospam.eds.com> wrote:
>
> >Yeah, but painting the figure RIGHT doesn't make it look dumb.
>
> and what is "right"?
>
If I had the answer to what is 'right' I wouldn't be wasting my time on
40K!
> >> Face it; minis look crappy when they are sporting 4 or more colors.
> >
> >This is stupid.
>
> i love you, too. your helpful advice inspires us all.
Glad I could help.
>
> >Another stupid concept. Sorry, blue on red is hard to look at.
>
> i see. well, everyone has an opinion. dont like them together,
> dont use them together. perhaps try yellow...
>
Yellow is good. Yellow would work between them both. But the color
wheel should be used to BLEND colors, not make your eyes hurt.
I was thinking more like the bad dubbing in the karate scene in Wayne's
World 2.
>you issued the challenge
no, my dear humanoid, _you_ issued a challenge. do you suffer from
psychic dyslexia?
>You stated that airbrush was a waste
for a new painter who owns neither brushes nor an airbrush, it is a
waste. it takes a great deal more money to get an airbrush. it takes
a great deal more practice to use an airbrush effectively. dont agree?
fine.
>airbrush vs paintbrush which is better quality??????
whichever you prefer. whichever you are best with.
>are you going to be a man of your word or a coward????
a man of my word... i said i would not accept your childish
challenge and i am not accepting it.
you know, maybe if you were capable of approaching this in some
sort of adult fashion instead of childish ranting, i might take
you seriously. but its too late for that now.
eric
Depends who you ask, Eric. I paint (occasionally) but find it to be more
frustrating than anything else.
Clay, do you ever play games that don't use figures? Are your Monopoly
figs painted? Did you drybrush and shade Col. Mustard from Clue?
>Yes! There was a WWII game at a Historical Convention many years ago
>that had US Marines vs. Japanese. The ENTIRE game was painted in
>shades of grey, because that's what the old war movies looked like!
>Even the terrain! What's cool is that you couldn't see the Japanese
>troops who where hidded in the terrain...
I played this at GenCon back in 1995! The game was played using Phoenix
Command rules, but with the fast-play suggestions from the PC counter sheet
pack. It played quite quickly with 30 to 40 figures per side.
It was titled something like "Back to Bataan in Black and White". The
ground sheet was a black and grey woolen blanket. The terrain was all
painted in shades of grey. The huts were mostly black with white
drybrushing. The figures were HO scale plastic figures, also done in grey
shades. The only thing in colour were the director and
movie-camera-on-a-crane figures taken from a model railroad set.
The biggest concession to realism was the "Close-up" rule. Every player had
one Close-up, where they could do almost anything they wanted. The referee
would adjudicate the close-up and assign a percent. I think I was hurt by
the fact I was first one to use the Close-up. Coming from a heavy amount of
roleplaying, I got into the spirit of it immediately, which gave our
opponents an idea of how to handle the Close-up. As a result, I came in
second on "best Close-up" voting.
I started the scenario with the commander (played by the late Toshio
Mifune) drawing his sword to lead the charge. As we got near a tree, we
were fired on by a marine sniper with a tommy gun. The marine figure was
actually IN the tree; I didn't notice him, so it was my own fault. Figuring
that his fire at point blank would take out most of my squad, I cashed in
my Close-up card. I then stated that I was going to throw my sword into the
marine's stomache, silencing his gun. The ref said, "Okay, that would be,
uh, 40% chance." I rolled 20-something, and the sniper died. The group
(including the opponents) applauded.
The winner of the Best Actor in a Starring Role went to a marine player
who's Close-up was at the end of a string of Close-ups that almost ended up
offsetting each other. When it was done, there were almost a dozen
casualties and a burning truck. The well-deserved winner received a small
wooden block with an HO figure mounted on it, spray painted gold. It was
all for naught, though, as the Japanese won the scenario.
The reason for the camera man? They moved the camera crew to the part of
the battlefield where the Close-up was taking place. All in all, it was a
lot of fun.
Allan Goodall agoo...@sympatico.ca
"Once again, the half time score.
Alien Overlords: 142,000. Scotland: zip."
- This Hour Has 22 Minutes
Maybe, but blue and red are not contrasting colors.
Color-------Contrast-
---------------------
red----------green---
orange--------blue---
yellow-------purple--
green---------red----
blue---------orange--
purple-------yellow--
---------------------
Jonas "Tertiary" Whitespore
-
r.g.m.w.sub-genius and r.g.m.w.rulez proponent
UIN 2092929
Free Agent:
ftp://ftp.net-connect.netpub/win/winsock-l/Windows95/News/fa32-111.exe
Read the RGMW FAQ. Use the subject line abbreviations.
http://www.gamesdomain.co.uk/faqdir/rec.games.miniatures.warhammer.txt
The Daemon has many forms. You must know them all. You must tell the
Daemon from his disguises and root him out from the hidden places.
Trust no-one. Trust not even yourself. It is better to die in vain
than
to live an abomination. The zealous martyr is praised for his valour:
the craven and the unready are justly abhorred.
- The First Book of Indoctrinations
>
> : Painting is where it's at. This hobby is NOTHING if you don't paint.
>
> Clay, do you ever play games that don't use figures? Are your Monopoly
> figs painted? Did you drybrush and shade Col. Mustard from Clue?
>
What an absolutely excellent question! I'd have to honestly answer
that *NO*, I've never play a miniatures wargame without miniatures!
You got me on that one! Damn you're good!
Clay
Insert clue for Joe here..
> >> Decals... Nothing More than Decals...
> >The Decals are great. I'm known for painting the decal because it's
> >not BRIGHT enough! Who wants a dull yellow decal? Just paint it!
> >
> I can never get the damn things on to the figure in one piece. Any tips for
> using them?
>
Yeah, use water. They work better that way. Honestly, decals are
purely a skill item. I know people who can paint great but can't use a
decal if their life depended on it. Railroad guys give the best
advice.
> >
> >Clay
> >Insert silly tag line here..
> OK - "There once was a man from Nantucket..."
>
Who carried his troops in a bucket....
>
> Depends who you ask, Eric. I paint (occasionally) but find it to be more
> frustrating than anything else.
>
Is this also your experience with sex?
(I'm sorry, but it was too good to pass up...)
This is the difference between painting for an army and painting for show.
A character model doesn't look TOO much different to the RnF when he's on
the table, but if you've done a good job, they look fantastic on display.
>
>> Two or Three Color Method
>> Face it; minis look crappy when they are sporting 4 or more colors.
>This is stupid.
>
I agree. You can go to far though, unless its Harlequins :)
>
>> And i am refering to all colors here, including black, white, and silver.
>> When you go to paint a miniature, pick out 2 or 3 highly contrasting
>> colors and get the major areas with these.
>Another stupid concept. Sorry, blue on red is hard to look at.
>
And tends to look like you pulled it out of a Happy Meal.
>> Never use dull colors. Yeah, yeah, the historical miniatures gamers
>> and the boring realism fanatics will whine about how no one with bright
>> orange armor would last a second on a battlefield. Tough! this is a
>> game, not real life.
>
>100% correct. Brighter colors are better. I'm a Historical gamer, so
>I have to be careful, but the 40K you can go nuts with the color.
>Bright looks good, and is another reason to prime with white.
>
I think that you should contrast your figures. I have a bunch of Eldar
scouts with flat grey coats over brightly coloured mesh armour. Looks
pretty spiffy to me (and there aren't many others to please really).
I prime my Ork stuff black, because I like to do them with dark skin. That
yellow-green that GW painters do the skin just looks dopey, but the shades
they use for black orcs looks really good, so I aim for that.
>
>> Decals... Nothing More than Decals...
>The Decals are great. I'm known for painting the decal because it's
>not BRIGHT enough! Who wants a dull yellow decal? Just paint it!
>
I can never get the damn things on to the figure in one piece. Any tips for
using them?
>> Drybrushing; The Last Stroke in Painting
>Awesome. A must learn technique for all miniatures gamers.
>
Yep, and its the easiest way to get a good beat-up look to vehicles.
>> I'm Gonna Wash That Color All Over That Mini
>I don't do this much as it tends to darken more than anything else.
>
I do it real early on, before building the base colour up, but I'm too lazy
to paint on too many successive layers of shading. Base, wash, base again,
drybrush. Just like the painting guides.
>
>Clay
>Insert silly tag line here..
Thanks to everyone who gave me advice on the decals, as the weekend is
coming up it might be time for a battle report - Kurt vs Decals. Kurt 1,
Decals 50 :)
Kurt
So, you wash the figure after drybrushing it? I usually do the opposite, but a
wash after the drybrush gives a nice unifying glaze sometimes--also good for
metallic colors when you only have silver & boltgun. Just curious, because I
sometimes think the final drybrush ruins the job.
Crooow99
>So, you wash the figure after drybrushing it? I usually do the opposite, but a
>wash after the drybrush gives a nice unifying glaze sometimes--also good for
>metallic colors when you only have silver & boltgun. Just curious, because I
>sometimes think the final drybrush ruins the job.
doing it before or after will produce different effects. usually, you
would want to do it before... washing is traditionally done with a
darker shade. after a base coat is applied, you would wash the surface
to shade the recesses. when the wash dries, you drybrush the high points
to lighten them from the base coat.
you may do it the other way as well, by highlighting the highest points
and then washing the whole surface. sometimes this is preferable, as
the drybrushed areas are too light or too contrasting, and the wash helps
to tame it. also, washing later on can produce a glazing effect, esp
when done over a rough drybrushing. this effect will seal the drybrushing
and add a lusterous tone, bringing out underlying colors and accenting
the higher, lighter ones.
eric
Um, do I hear a distinct "whizzing" sound - like something going around
or over someone's head? Or did I miss something else in the exchange?
Of course, it WOULD be neat to play against Clay in Monopoly or Life -
especially if he's got those Life cars all painted up neat ;)
(Do you HAVE to drybrush the little people pegs, though?)
Tom Beliech
Not to mention that spining thingy..
On 23 Apr 1998, Clay Smith followed up Kurt with:
>>> Insert silly tag line here..
>> OK - "There once was a man from Nantucket..."
> Who carried his troops in a bucket....
On the way home
He tripped on a bone
And on seeing the mess he said "Chuck it!"
JD
censored for your convenience
> > >Clay
> > >Insert silly tag line here..
> > OK - "There once was a man from Nantucket..."
> >
>
> Who carried his troops in a bucket....
>
a soft case it sure ain't
and it chipped up his paint
since his name wasn't Clay he said f*ck it
Damien
Just your average urine soaked hero...
> > Depends who you ask, Eric. I paint (occasionally) but find it to be more
> > frustrating than anything else.
> Is this also your experience with sex?
> (I'm sorry, but it was too good to pass up...)
*zzzziiinnnnng!!*
*Applaudes*
Excellent Clay! (But I had a tough time believing that Mer really got
any . . .)
Eeeek! Don't hurt me! ;)
--
D
(Callidus-in-training)
(a.k.a. Kawaii Neko-chan!)
BOYCOTT GAMES WORKSHOP PRODUCTS!!!!! - Bob Yager
Send replies to mailto:haki...@sprintmail.com
> > Eeeek! Don't hurt me! ;)
> > D
> > (Callidus-in-training)
> Is it true that a Callidus assassin will actually...you know..uhh hu huh "do
> it" with somebody if it helps them to complete their mission.
Well, if a Callidus . . . *deleted by agents of the Officio
Assassinorum*
> You know, i'd be
> more that willing to aid you in that part of your training.
Only if you could . . . *deleted by agents of the Officio Assassinorum*
and . . . *deleted by agents of the Officio Assassinorum*
> I'm a platinum
> member of the Institute for the Sexualy Gifted and a member in good standing of
> the Well Hung Society, so i'm sure you'd have fun learning.
Ha ha! Foul Slaaneshy traitor! You have been corrupted by the
'teachings' of the Asiatic philosopher - Sum Yung Well Hung Gai!!
Thank you for posting - we now have the precise coordinates of your
location, and are preparing some of our finest agents for your impending
execution. Have a nice day!
> *Zippy dons his old football helmet and covers his nuts for this response*
Zippy's folks: "Son, what're the football helmet and the thimble for?"
Zippy: Well, the helmet is to protect my groin... the thimble is to
protect my brain :)
Hey, don't get mad at me! I am just running with the joke D set up.
--
Enjoy,
Ndege
_______________________________
Every dogma has its day.
Is it true that a Callidus assassin will actually...you know..uhh hu huh "do
it" with somebody if it helps them to complete their mission. You know, i'd be
more that willing to aid you in that part of your training. I'm a platinum
member of the Institute for the Sexualy Gifted and a member in good standing of
the Well Hung Society, so i'm sure you'd have fun learning.
*Zippy dons his old football helmet and covers his nuts for this response*
Eric Jome wrote:
> In article <6hji6j$1...@bgtnsc02.worldnet.att.net>,
> jack <glimm...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> >I'll eat you alive!!!!!!!!!
>
> normally, a person should not accept a proposition of such a delicate
> nature from a stranger. perhaps we could exchange some steamy letters
> first and then pictures. if everything is still going well, we could
> rendevous at some cozy hideaway and after some suitable foreplay, you
> could make good on your offer.
>
> another internet romance blossoms. feh.
>
> eric
*grin* Not as slow as some like me, I started painting my techmarine back
in November '96 and he still ain't finished. Admittedly all he needs now is
some touching up and the left arm sticking on but....
Don't boycott Games Workshop Games
Buy more, More, MORE!!!!
'Later
Corin Nichols
C.Ni...@business.salford.ac.uk
'Love at first sight can be cured by a second glance'
What're you talking about? You're just as Slaaneshi as me, young lady, don't deny
it! It is your destiny!
>
>
> > *Zippy dons his old football helmet and covers his nuts for this response*
>
> Zippy's folks: "Son, what're the football helmet and the thimble for?"
First of all, football players don't wear cups. Second of all, I said "covers his
nuts", implying that I covered them with my hands. Third, that'd have to be one
fucking big thimble, but, fourthly, it ain't how big your pencil is, it's how you
write your name.
: )
Speaking of which, I knew a guy who used to sit on his helmet during the game,
then snagged an out of controll "hail Mary" in the head one game. Funniest thing I
ever saw in my life - it's funny because it wasn't me. : )
Yes...please tell us more...not. : )
Yes, and I think the head was yours.
And funny thing is it's usually in someone elses handwriting . . . ?
(Fun with Graphology?)
Zippy <nos...@for.me.ma'am> wrote :
>, but, fourthly, it ain't how big your pencil is, it's how you
> write your name.
> : )
Yeah; in Zippy's case, he usually runs out of lead before he finishes.
:}
--
Del Webb
dw...@transport.com
"In the grim darkness of the far future there is only Cheesy Poofs."
Nope! It's one a' those mechanical ones with the extra leads!
CYBORK! Just kidding. : )
>Clay Smith wrote:
>>
>> In article <6hnto5$c...@newsops.execpc.com>
>> ki...@earth.execpc.com (Joe Schulte) writes:
>>
>> >
>> > : Painting is where it's at. This hobby is NOTHING if you don't paint.
>> >
>> > Clay, do you ever play games that don't use figures? Are your Monopoly
>> > figs painted? Did you drybrush and shade Col. Mustard from Clue?
>> >
>>
>> What an absolutely excellent question! I'd have to honestly answer
>> that *NO*, I've never play a miniatures wargame without miniatures!
>> You got me on that one! Damn you're good!
>
>Um, do I hear a distinct "whizzing" sound - like something going around
>or over someone's head? Or did I miss something else in the exchange?
>
>Of course, it WOULD be neat to play against Clay in Monopoly or Life -
>especially if he's got those Life cars all painted up neat ;)
>
>(Do you HAVE to drybrush the little people pegs, though?)
>
>Tom Beliech
I dunno.. whenever I play Monopoly we use figures from 40k..
it all started out when I was left withthe thimble, so I ducked out
and got a runtherd, put it on his head and said it was it's had. S omy
brother went out and got the rider off a track, and put it riding his
dog. So my little sister went and got a trak, and put her.. well,
whatever it was in the back of it.. and the rest is history.. :)
--
NEil
(phil...@gwbbs.net.au)
a.k.a. N-ster...
I'd imagine that someone will be mentioning Pencil Sharpening and
Calligraphy...
Tom Beliech
Rogue Trader Cult Page @ http://www.geocities.com/Area51/1323
NEil Phillips wrote:
> I dunno.. whenever I play Monopoly we use figures from 40k..
Monopoly 40K?? Hmm....
Could be the next Talisman!
Brady
Actualy I was going to say he seems to be more interested in finger
painting but I thought I had better not.
--
Sure, why not? They already have Star Wars Monopoly, Star Trek chess
sets. Star Wars beer steins (with Yoda or Boba Fet on the little mug
lids), R2-D2 telephones, heck you can even buy the Noisy Cricket from
MIB for a cool $295. You can pay for all that stuff with your Star Trek
limited edition checks.
All GW sells is this stuff that you have to put together and payint
yourself. What a rip-off! I want them to make a set of official
Ultramarines bed sheets and a bumper sticker that says "Orks do it
fasta".
Fingering? Painting? You've been visiting those porno sites again, haven't
you?
Ummm... I don't get that one. I'm pretty sure you insulted me ( a thin
veil of hostility to cover your forbidden attraction : ) ), but I don't get
it. Sowwy!
: )
That would kick ass, like the Star Wars monopoly...
"You have been found guilty of Heresy. Go directly to the Eye of Terror, do
not pass Earth, do not collect 200 credits".
"You come second in an Inquistorial purity contest. Collect 10 credits".
Just rename all the streets to Imperial worlds, the stations could be
Craftworlds, and the utilities different arms of the Adeptus Terra. Free
parking - Squat homeworlds?
>Could be the next Talisman!
>
I miss the old Talisman Timescape, one of the expansions I never got :(
Kurt
>Brady Severns wrote in message <354353BE...@earthlink.net>...
>>NEil Phillips wrote:
>>
>>> I dunno.. whenever I play Monopoly we use figures from 40k..
>>Monopoly 40K?? Hmm....
>>
>
>That would kick ass, like the Star Wars monopoly...
>
>"You have been found guilty of Heresy. Go directly to the Eye of Terror, do
>not pass Earth, do not collect 200 credits".
>
>"You come second in an Inquistorial purity contest. Collect 10 credits".
>
>Just rename all the streets to Imperial worlds, the stations could be
>Craftworlds, and the utilities different arms of the Adeptus Terra. Free
>parking - Squat homeworlds?
OK, so anyone wanna help out on this one?
If we could make a monopoly set that functions just like monopoly, but
completely 40k-ised.. would be cool :)
sure, it does break copyrighty things from two companies, but we can
live with that :)
put the finished monopoly conversion up on the web..
and scans of "imperial credits" :)
just the game to play wehn you can't get teh whole table for a game of
40k..
Now that was a fun expansion, using the anti-gravity raft you could carry
any number of objects... then make sure you place the anti-gravity raft in
the secret pocket so no other character could ever steal it...
Jimbo
> Clay Smith wrote:
> >
> > In article <6hnto5$c...@newsops.execpc.com>
> > ki...@earth.execpc.com (Joe Schulte) writes:
> >
> > >
> > > : Painting is where it's at. This hobby is NOTHING if you don't paint.
> > >
> > > Clay, do you ever play games that don't use figures? Are your Monopoly
> > > figs painted? Did you drybrush and shade Col. Mustard from Clue?
> > >
> >
> > What an absolutely excellent question! I'd have to honestly answer
> > that *NO*, I've never play a miniatures wargame without miniatures!
> > You got me on that one! Damn you're good!
>
> Um, do I hear a distinct "whizzing" sound - like something going around
> or over someone's head? Or did I miss something else in the exchange?
>
> Of course, it WOULD be neat to play against Clay in Monopoly or Life -
> especially if he's got those Life cars all painted up neat ;)
>
> (Do you HAVE to drybrush the little people pegs, though?)
>
> Tom Beliech
Yeah, but painting the eyes is a bitch!
> Howdy,
>
> NEil Phillips wrote:
>
> > I dunno.. whenever I play Monopoly we use figures from 40k..
>
> Monopoly 40K?? Hmm....
>
(Opponent rolls dice) HAH! You landed on my Bloodthirster. I have
three hotels, that'll be four thousand dollars please!
> Brady Severns wrote in message <354353BE...@earthlink.net>...
> >NEil Phillips wrote:
> >
> >> I dunno.. whenever I play Monopoly we use figures from 40k..
> >Monopoly 40K?? Hmm....
> >
>
> That would kick ass, like the Star Wars monopoly...
>
> "You have been found guilty of Heresy. Go directly to the Eye of Terror, do
> not pass Earth, do not collect 200 credits".
>
> "You come second in an Inquistorial purity contest. Collect 10 credits".
>
> Just rename all the streets to Imperial worlds, the stations could be
> Craftworlds, and the utilities different arms of the Adeptus Terra. Free
> parking - Squat homeworlds?
>
If my Bloodthirster lands on Boardwalk, does he get to trash the place?
> >
> > > I dunno.. whenever I play Monopoly we use figures from 40k..
> >
> > Monopoly 40K?? Hmm....
> (Opponent rolls dice) HAH! You landed on my Bloodthirster. I have
> three hotels, that'll be four thousand dollars please!
>
> Clay
If it's 40K, wouldn't you want to use troops as your denomination? As
in "I landed on the Avatar - You've got two ships on that space, so I
lose 500 troops"
Tom Beliech
Shouldn't that be "You come second in an Inquisitorial purity contest. Get
burnt to death on the spot."
--
__ __ __ __ __ ___ _____________________________________________
|__||__)/ __/ \|\ ||_ | /
| || \\__/\__/| \||__ | /...Internet access for all Acorn RISC machines
___________________________/ sb...@argonet.co.uk
Well, I guess there's still some hope for me, then. It took me around
four hours to paint a Knight of the Realm, which was the fourth figure
I've ever done... It would have taken me less time, if I hadn't followed
the GW painting instructions like and idiot and didn't glue the horse
together before painting the inner surfaces of the legs and the barding.
It also didn't help that I decided to do a black and yellow color
scheme, touching up with black is not a problem, but the other way
around...
Try http://home.pacbell.net/jlotto/mnply40k.htm. I had the inspiration
quite a while ago, but never got around to doing the artwork:)
The Mikado
(Closet Game Designer)
I'd be in for it. Grab some nice strong board, mark out all the different
squares and do some basic job on it, and then rework the cards. Just use
your favourite figure for your piece (as long as it is painted :) ). and
Bob's your auty's live-in lover.
Maybe you could make it like Talisman and have extra boards which hang off
Go, Jail, etc. But that's just getting silly...
Kurt
Kurt
NEil Phillips <phil...@gwbbs.net.au> wrote in article
<35444762...@news.camtech.com.au>...
> On Mon, 27 Apr 1998 13:08:11 +1000, "Kurt" <doo...@mindless.com> saw
> fit to share the following wisdom:
>
> >Brady Severns wrote in message <354353BE...@earthlink.net>...
> >>NEil Phillips wrote:
> >>
> >>> I dunno.. whenever I play Monopoly we use figures from 40k..
> >>Monopoly 40K?? Hmm....
> >>
> >
> >That would kick ass, like the Star Wars monopoly...
> >
> >"You have been found guilty of Heresy. Go directly to the Eye of
Terror, do
> >not pass Earth, do not collect 200 credits".
> >
> >"You come second in an Inquistorial purity contest. Collect 10
credits".
> >
> >Just rename all the streets to Imperial worlds, the stations could be
> >Craftworlds, and the utilities different arms of the Adeptus Terra.
Free
> >parking - Squat homeworlds?
>
>
> OK, so anyone wanna help out on this one?
>
> If we could make a monopoly set that functions just like monopoly, but
> completely 40k-ised.. would be cool :)
Heh heh heh...launching Exterminatus on your opponent's
properties...attacking the opponent's piece if you land on the same
square..."Darn it! Now whydja hafta go and Doom Boardwalk?"
In the grim darkness of the future, there is only Uncle Pennybags...
-Thornhammer
Chapter Commander, Prozac Marines
CEO of Warhammer Championship Wrestling
On that note, how would a fanatic work? Random directions bashing D6 S5
hits on any house or hotel that's on what he lands on? Of course doubles
he'd die I guess..
Callidusigraphy, perhaps?:)
I just don't know who I wanna be
The Count of Monte Cristo or the Sheik of Araby
this could relly work for 40k OR for fantasy..
First, you need an oversized board. we need to re-name all the streets
(planets? Craftworlds? we could allways do it in 4 sections..
Imperium, (eastern fringe), Squats, Orks? then Chaos, with the 4 Eldar
craftworlds in place of railways.. (read the bit on the webway))
Move around the board using your favourite model.. army leader,
vehicle, epic thunderhawk, space fleet miniature.. take your pic
This represents your personal army.
Nw, instead of Houses, use troops from your army. Epic stands count as
one..
This represents defensive forces
If you get a Hotel, att a Sargeant to the squad.
When your personal army lands on a spot that is defended, you lose
(whatever - the normal rent) of troops from your army.
You must controll an entire sector before placing defensive forces on
any planet.
THis all sounds like fun :)