[PAINTING] the "stainless steel" look?
Jeneth J. Hawke
miniatures (i.e. an almost mirror finish)? If so, I would be interested in
hearing your thoughts and/or seeing any links to information on achieving
this effect. I have a wargaming project in mind that requires some very
shiny troops...
- Jeneth J. Hawke
Richard Lobinske
For very shiny, I use Modelmaster enamel "chrome silver", for a slighty brushed
look, I use Modelmaster Metalizer non-buffing "steel".
Death before dishonor,
Nothing before coffee
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Robert S. Psycho
normally in spray form, correct me if I'm wrong, but basically just spray a
bunch into a little cup and brush it on.
Jeneth J. Hawke <damage...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:kxG96.1827$tD2.1...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
>
Bagheera
"Robert S. Psycho" <rf...@musician.orgXXXX> wrote:
> You can buy a chrome paint, like for model cars/planes. I think it's
> normally in spray form, correct me if I'm wrong, but basically just
spray a
> bunch into a little cup and brush it on.
I've actually been debating this technique, but at $8 a can, I'd like
to know if anyone has tried it to any effect yet?
--
Bagherra <bagh...@my-deja.com>
http://www.frenzy.com/~jaebear
"You can't run from trouble, there ain't no place far enough."
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
Kris
>
> Has anyone had any luck getting a shiny "stainless steel" effect on
> miniatures (i.e. an almost mirror finish)?
I think there is no way to really get a good mirror finish, the only
thing one can do is to try various brands of silver colour and compare
the results.
Years ago I had a pot of Humbrol Silver which gave a nice mirror effect
occasionally, but it was a weird paint to use, more of a silver wash or
ink. All my other silver pots of that brand were normal, so there must
have been something wrong with that particular one.
I have heard of someone who wanted to try polishing the unpainted
miniature and clear coat it immediately, preventing oxidation of the
metal. Then he wanted to paint over the clear coat while leaving the
polished parts. Since I never saw a miniature done like that, I have no
idea if it works.
Kris
Jason Dyer
I'm guessing you have been looking at Martin Footitt's Dwarves in the
new army book?
Anyway...
Try a Silver Ink, if applied correctly it should "smooth" out any
imperfections in the base coat. The one I bought in the UK (W&N I think)
is VERY bright.
JKD
_________________________________________________________
Jason Dyer, Ph.D.
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Research Scientist, GW-Outrider
Member RTC, 3rd Edition Fanboy
James S. Mackay
wrote:
><rf...@musician.orgXXXX> wrote:
>> You can buy a chrome paint, like for model cars/planes. I think it's
>> normally in spray form, correct me if I'm wrong, but basically just
>spray a
>> bunch into a little cup and brush it on.
>
>I've actually been debating this technique, but at $8 a can, I'd like
>to know if anyone has tried it to any effect yet?
>
What you'd have then is a cloud of aerosolized solvent, and a silver cup. If
any of the paint did remain liquid for any length of time, it would wreck your
brushes good, and go on the model in big clumps. The solvent in spray paint is
really volatile, and it separates from the paint almost the instant it leaves
the nozzle.
First, make sure the mini you want to give the "chrome" look to is smooth -
get rid of any surface imperfections that you can. Then, give it a LIGHT, even
coat of primer. Find yourself a decent bright silver paint. Polly-S used to
make an acrylic "Stainless Steel," which may be available in the new PollyScale
line. Paint said miniature, thinning the paint to avoid brushmarks, blobs, etc.
Lastly, give it a coat of Future Floor Polish. Yeah, the stuff your mom
uses on the hardwood floors. It's basically a gloss acrylic, and if you put it
on evenly, it will give you a polished, mirror effect. I saw it done on a bust
of a fighter pilot (much larger scale - 1/6, I think) and it looked just like a
mirrored visor.
"anything but a 'one'...."
James S. Mackay
Ida...@aol.com
ICQ# 6662780
remove "nospam" to reply
Blank Dave
You *could* use Rust-Oleum Chrome paint, if you want ultra chrome, as seen
on Jerry Buchanan's Cutie Honey,
http://www.modelersresource.com/articles/cutey/cutey.htm (I have to get
around to painting my Cutie Honey Flash version). But although
mind-numbingly chrome like, and I'm quite sure no other paint could approach
it's level of gloss, I suggest you read Jerry's as to what not to do with
it, namely "don't seal the kit" and "don't handle the kit." So despite it's
wonderful visual qualities, it's not the paint for minis, unless they are
ment as show pieces.
I would go with Richard's suggestion of Model Master's Metalizer paints.
Although I haven't got to use mine yet, their metalic qualities are just
wonderful. Ideally, they are ment for use with an airbrush, but should be
brushable for smaller work. The one down side is they must be sealed,
because as I understand it the paints don't truely dry -ever. But again if
you're using an airbrush, the Metalizer sealant is about as thin as water,
so again no problemo.
--
Blank Dave
Dares to present alternate opinions to yours. Because, face it, I'm right.
Keep the gene pool clean: Kill an idiot!
Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhoea ...Massive,
difficult to re-direct, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a source of
mind-boggling amounts of excrement, when you least expect it.
Gene Spafford
Blank Dave
> >miniatures (i.e. an almost mirror finish)? If so, I would be interested
in
> >hearing your thoughts and/or seeing any links to information on achieving
> >this effect. I have a wargaming project in mind that requires some very
> >shiny troops...
> >
>
> For very shiny, I use Modelmaster enamel "chrome silver", for a slighty
brushed
> look, I use Modelmaster Metalizer non-buffing "steel".
How would you suggest doing "coloured" steel? You know how some gun barrels
appear to have a blue hint to them.
Moramarth
online.de> writes
>"Jeneth J. Hawke" wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone had any luck getting a shiny "stainless steel" effect on
>> miniatures (i.e. an almost mirror finish)?
>
>I think there is no way to really get a good mirror finish, the only
>thing one can do is to try various brands of silver colour and compare
>the results.
production batches.
>
>Years ago I had a pot of Humbrol Silver which gave a nice mirror effect
>occasionally, but it was a weird paint to use, more of a silver wash or
>ink. All my other silver pots of that brand were normal, so there must
>have been something wrong with that particular one.
that was much superior to the silver in the general range. Even better
if you didn't stir it but fished a little pigment out of the bottom with
a cocktail stick, put it on a palette (in my case, a scrap of kitchen
foil) and thinned it a bit with a couple of drops of white spirit or
Turps substitute.
>
>I have heard of someone who wanted to try polishing the unpainted
>miniature and clear coat it immediately, preventing oxidation of the
>metal. Then he wanted to paint over the clear coat while leaving the
>polished parts. Since I never saw a miniature done like that, I have no
>idea if it works.
metal-barded horses. Polished them with a brass brush in a mini-drill,
that was too much, it started to erode the detail - if I did it again
I'd use a suede brush. Then I washed them with very dilute Payne's Grey
oil paint, when it was dry polished them with a soft cloth. Then I gloss
varnished them - nowadays I'd use acrylic, polyurethane eventually
yellows. The coloured areas just painted direct onto the varnish, but
I'd have used a white undercoat for any bright colours, if I'd been
using any.
>
Cheers,
>Kris
P.S. if you're in the UK and doing plastic minis, try Halford's
Aluminium car spray, I've had decent results with this.
--
Moramarth
Richard Lobinske
>appear to have a blue hint to them.
Metalizer has a gunmetal shade (more of a medium dark silver). Also,
Modelmaster has gunmetal in both acrylic and enamal, though it is a bit too
blue, it can be modified to suit.
Richard Lobinske
>wonderful. Ideally, they are ment for use with an airbrush, but should be
>brushable for smaller work.
Actually brushes fairly well, but it dries quite rapidly when brushed, so you
will need to clean your brushes more frequently than normal.
>The one down side is they must be sealed,
>because as I understand it the paints don't truely dry -ever. But again if
>you're using an airbrush, the Metalizer sealant is about as thin as water,
>so again no problemo.
Actually, it more like the pigment rubs off more easily (the buffing pigments
are real bad for this, definitely not recommended for gaming figures). But
then, you should be sealing your figures anyway.
Bagheera
so if the chrome has solvents in it, it is NOT recommended for plastics
(like Rhino's & Landspeeders), right?
In article <%2M96.119352$f36.5...@news20.bellglobal.com>,
--
Jeneth J. Hawke
> I'm guessing you have been looking at Martin
> Footitt's Dwarves in the new army book?
Yes, but I didn't like the "look" in that particular application.
However, it did get me thinking that I've never seen a chromed Space Marines
chapter. It made me wonder how you would fight an opponent you couldn't look
at without blinding yourself. Then I started wondering if reflective armor
on a desert world could do anything particularly nasty to an opponent's
targeting systems (ignoring for a moment what it would probably do to the
guy *in* the armor when he's standing in a squad full of these suits
bouncing all those rays around).
Stealth? No. Unusual? Probably. ;-)
- Jeneth J. Hawke
DavidR3986
'n Buff, which I found at an arts and crafts store. I think it's intended for
larger-scale arts&crafts projects, but it can be applied to miniatures. I use
a fairly stiff white nylon brush to apply it, then let it dry a bit, then buff
it.... oddly enough, pretty much the procedure recommended on the label. If
you do decide to go this route, I recommend painting and sealing the metallized
surfaces before you paint the rest of the miniature.
John Hwang
> Has anyone had any luck getting a shiny "stainless steel" effect on
> miniatures (i.e. an almost mirror finish)?
I'd prime black, paint silver, give a thin wash of blue-black, drybrush
with chainmail/silver, and highlight very faintly in white along
edges.
To be honest, you won't be able to get the effect as you want it with
just painting. You'll need to wax and polish the mini to get a truly
shiny effect.
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Steve
"Jeneth J. Hawke" <damage...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:VbN96.218$rH6....@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
well just get a can of silver or chrome paint for marines in that case, of
your wanting the bluish effect you see on the airbrushed chrome look
pictures, or the oil look, you might take a watered down blue ink, and i
think you have to put a drop of detergent in it too to get it to smooth out
over slick enamels, other wise it will seperate, my marines are silver, and
the first marines i painted up i didnt want to spend much time on (was sick
of painting at the time), so i sprayed them and the wash seperated, i forgot
the detergent. i think, one day i will get around to repainting them.
Steve
Steve
"Blank Dave" <blank...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:%2M96.119352$f36.5...@news20.bellglobal.com...
> > Has anyone had any luck getting a shiny "stainless steel" effect on
> > miniatures (i.e. an almost mirror finish)? If so, I would be interested
in
> > hearing your thoughts and/or seeing any links to information on
achieving
> > this effect. I have a wargaming project in mind that requires some very
> > shiny troops...
>
> You *could* use Rust-Oleum Chrome paint, if you want ultra chrome, as seen
> on Jerry Buchanan's Cutie Honey,
> http://www.modelersresource.com/articles/cutey/cutey.htm (I have to get
> around to painting my Cutie Honey Flash version). But although
> mind-numbingly chrome like, and I'm quite sure no other paint could
approach
> it's level of gloss, I suggest you read Jerry's as to what not to do with
> it, namely "don't seal the kit" and "don't handle the kit." So despite
it's
> wonderful visual qualities, it's not the paint for minis, unless they are
> ment as show pieces.
also using an enamel, you might even try to polish it with something like
"Mothers" polish. you might try it on something else first.
Steve
Steve
<Bagheera>; "the jungle scout" <bagh...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:9485e0$aes$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
>
>
> so if the chrome has solvents in it, it is NOT recommended for plastics
> (like Rhino's & Landspeeders), right?
prime first then there is no worry for sure, bu tit probly wouldnt hurt it.
cant rem if i primed my marines or not first, any way they were the older
plastic, which the sprays do attack so bad anyway.
Steve
Bagheera
John Hwang <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> "Jeneth J. Hawke" <damage...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > Has anyone had any luck getting a shiny "stainless steel" effect on
> > miniatures (i.e. an almost mirror finish)?
>
> I'd prime black, paint silver, give a thin wash of blue-black,
drybrush
> with chainmail/silver, and highlight very faintly in white along
> edges.
>
> To be honest, you won't be able to get the effect as you want it with
> just painting. You'll need to wax and polish the mini to get a truly
> shiny effect.
it isn't necessarily shiny that you'd want from this technique, but
more of a reflective effect. Mirrored so to speak. Chrome paint CAN
do this, but it's just a matter of how to apply it. Maybe undercoat in
chrome, seal it and paint over?
--
Bagherra <bagh...@my-deja.com>
http://www.frenzy.com/~jaebear
"You can't run from trouble, there ain't no place far enough."
John Hwang
> John Hwang <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> > "Jeneth J. Hawke" <damage...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > Has anyone had any luck getting a shiny "stainless steel"
> > > effect on miniatures (i.e. an almost mirror finish)?
> >
> > I'd prime black, paint silver, give a thin wash of blue-black,
> > drybrush with chainmail/silver, and highlight very faintly in
> > white along edges.
> >
> > To be honest, you won't be able to get the effect as you want it
> > with just painting. You'll need to wax and polish the mini to
> > get a truly shiny effect.
>
> it isn't necessarily shiny that you'd want from this technique, but
> more of a reflective effect. Mirrored so to speak.
Huh? Mirrored needs to be smooth and shiny.
> Chrome paint CAN do this, but it's just a matter of how to apply
> it. Maybe undercoat in chrome, seal it and paint over?
If you're chroming, you're going to need a very smooth surface to apply
it over, which means a number of primed and sanded basecoats to smooth
out the surface. So after priming, I'd go: grey & sand; white &
sand; grey & sand; then chrome and seal and wax and polish. But
there's no way to get away from a buffing and polishing step at the end
if want it to be mirrored and shiny.
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Richard Lobinske
>chapter. It made me wonder how you would fight an opponent you couldn't look
>at without blinding yourself.
That is how my Dark Star SM chapter looks. I used Modelmaster Chrome Silver as
the base color, a black wash applied to the joints only with a fine liner, to
provide a dark line to accent the joint separation. Gloss black helmet lenses,
flat black hoses. Metalizer Brass trim on the pauldrons and eagles. Command
squad has a solid brass pauldron, assault red, devesator black. Opposing
pauldron has a back star.
Vehicles are flat black with the black star insigia in a silver sunburst.
Richard Lobinske
>just painting. You'll need to wax and polish the mini to get a truly
>shiny effect.
From experience, the chrome silver I recommended does do the job.
Bagheera
John Hwang <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> > it isn't necessarily shiny that you'd want from this technique, but
> > more of a reflective effect. Mirrored so to speak.
> Huh? Mirrored needs to be smooth and shiny.
those are not mutually inclusive.
Reflective has to be smooth and shiny, but smooth and shiny is not
necessarily reflective.
> > Chrome paint CAN do this, but it's just a matter of how to apply
> > it. Maybe undercoat in chrome, seal it and paint over?
>
> If you're chroming, you're going to need a very smooth surface to
apply
> it over, which means a number of primed and sanded basecoats to smooth
> out the surface. So after priming, I'd go: grey & sand; white &
> sand; grey & sand; then chrome and seal and wax and polish. But
> there's no way to get away from a buffing and polishing step at the
end
> if want it to be mirrored and shiny.
nope, just mirrored :)
I don't think it really requires all that.
It seems like alot of primer, and waxing a miniature?
I think I will try chrome spray and do a glossy acrylic coat over.
If anyone has done this, please send me your advice.
--
Bagherra <bagh...@my-deja.com>
http://www.frenzy.com/~jaebear
"You can't run from trouble, there ain't no place far enough."
Blank Dave
> >because as I understand it the paints don't truely dry -ever. But again
if
> >you're using an airbrush, the Metalizer sealant is about as thin as
water,
> >so again no problemo.
>
> Actually, it more like the pigment rubs off more easily (the buffing
pigments
> are real bad for this, definitely not recommended for gaming figures).
But
> then, you should be sealing your figures anyway.
But some people don't seal their figures, even though they should. I was
just pointing out that this type of paint must be seealed to maintian it's
appearance.
Richard Lobinske
>It seems like alot of primer, and waxing a miniature?
>I think I will try chrome spray and do a glossy acrylic coat over.
>If anyone has done this, please send me your advice.
Modelmaster chrome silver applied by brush with a gloss coat over it works
fine. Spraying the chrome silver actually tends to dull the finish some. I
have about 90 space marines done this way.
Richard Lobinske
>just pointing out that this type of paint must be seealed to maintian it's
>appearance.
Sorry, I know you know better, I was hoping to reinforce your comment, poor
choice of words.
Bagheera
rlob...@aol.com (Richard Lobinske) wrote:
> >I don't think it really requires all that.
> >It seems like alot of primer, and waxing a miniature?
> >I think I will try chrome spray and do a glossy acrylic coat over.
> >If anyone has done this, please send me your advice.
>
> Modelmaster chrome silver applied by brush with a gloss coat over it
works
> fine. Spraying the chrome silver actually tends to dull the finish
some. I
> have about 90 space marines done this way.
you wouldn't happen to have a scan would you?
I'm envisioning a tiny fleet of Cylons here...
Richard Lobinske
They do not have one red eye...
Bagheera
rlob...@aol.com (Richard Lobinske) wrote:
> >I'm envisioning a tiny fleet of Cylons here...
>
> They do not have one red eye...
But they could...
But they could...
Blank Dave
Silver as
> the base color, a black wash applied to the joints only with a fine liner,
to
> provide a dark line to accent the joint separation. Gloss black helmet
lenses,
> flat black hoses. Metalizer Brass trim on the pauldrons and eagles.
Command
> squad has a solid brass pauldron, assault red, devesator black. Opposing
> pauldron has a back star.
> Vehicles are flat black with the black star insigia in a silver sunburst.
That I would like to see.
Richard Lobinske
Does this mean I have to get off my but and take some pictures?
Blank Dave
>
> Does this mean I have to get off my but and take some pictures?
Damned right.