[PAINT] Long list of questions (LONG)
Tahrik Mili
hobby stores near me don't have an extensive range of Citadel paints, so I
have to order pretty much everything I need from the GW UK mail order. My
orders take about 2 weeks (minimum) to reach me, so this is not a really
ideal situation. Besides, I have found some of the GW paints to not really
be to my liking. For all these reasons I went out to visit art shops and
department stores in search of acrylic paints today.
It appears that a number of stores have recently imported and stocked
themselves strongly with Lukas paints of all ranges and colors. I quickly
grabbed a few color catalogues for the acrylics and sat down at home to
examine them thoroughly. In the end, I found out that pretty much all
colors I need are included in their range (although not all of them are in
preferrable glass pot form). Here are links to the colors they have:
Paste paints: http://www.lukas-online.com/e/produkte/acryl_pa.htm
Liquid paints: http://www.lukas-online.com/e/produkte/acryl_li.htm
Model/Craft paints: http://www.lukas-online.com/e/produkte/paint.htm
The models paints are colors that come in pots, most of the liquid paint
line come in containers that resemble ketchup bottles (metallics are the
exception here, they come in pots), and the paste paints come in tubes.
They don't have the color range of their Model/Craft paints on their
website, but it's a selection of paints from the liquid line and some
intermediate colors not available in other lines, supplied in various sizes
of pots. These model/craft paints have Very Nice metallics too, I have to
say.
All in all, I found them a lot to my liking, because of their availability
and the way they look (They have the most beautiful ultramarine color I've
seen, it even made me paint a vanilla ultramarine army after I finish my
Blood Angels). They are considerably cheaper than Citadel paints too, so I
might buy a bunch. The thing is, I don't know if they are actually as good
to paint with as they look. Has anyone used Lukas brand acrylics before? I
have experimented with a matte varnish produced by them and it seemed to do
its job just fine. If anyone has tried these paints before, could you pass
on your experiences with it? Also, even if you haven't tried them yet,
judging by the color catalogues they have online, do you think what they
have is enough? I've had no experience with acrylic paints aside from stuff
I used from pots; would it be very hard for me to adapt to paste acrylics?
Also, if anyone can check their liquid paints page, are the stuff they
supply in ketchup-bottles (for lack of better term, if there is I'm not
aware :) about the same thickness as pot acrylics?
As I was shopping for these stuff, I came across a seemingly knowledgable
art shop owner, and asked him about which acrylic white spray he'd recommend
for me to use to undercoat plastic and metallic figures (since with the one
I used before, I experienced some funny chipping problems). He snorted and
told me that no matter how adhesive it may say on the spray can acrylic
sprays would never stick to plastic figures forever, and that I should use
cellulose based sprays if I want to prime plastic figures. Was he
bullshitting me?
I'll be checking some more stores (mostly department stores) for things I
can turn into carrying cases, stuff I can use to strip paint and other
accessories tomorrow, so I'll probably have yet another long post by then ;)
Thanks to everyone who took the time to read all of this post and reply to
it.
Regards,
Mil
John Hwang
>The nearest official GW store is about 400 km. to where I live,
About 250 miles... That's a long trek...
>and the hobby stores near me don't have an extensive range of
>Citadel paints,
No loss there! The Citadel paints dry too quickly, the bottles don't seal
air-tight, but do seal themselves closed. Avoid like the plague.
>so I have to order pretty much everything I need from the GW UK
>mail order. My orders take about 2 weeks (minimum) to reach me,
> so this is not a really ideal situation.
Try another MO outfit -- you can probably get discounts, too!
>Besides, I have found some of the GW paints to not really
>be to my liking. For all these reasons I went out to visit art shops
>and department stores in search of acrylic paints today.
Why not MO Coat D'Armes? The old Citadel paints? Much better and cheaper,
nice range. Or Floquil/Polly Scale? These work nicely.
>It appears that a number of stores have recently imported and stocked
>themselves strongly with Lukas paints of all ranges and colors. I quickly
>grabbed a few color catalogues for the acrylics and sat down at home to
>examine them thoroughly. In the end, I found out that pretty much all
>colors I need are included in their range (although not all of them are in
>preferrable glass pot form). Here are links to the colors they have:
>
>Paste paints: http://www.lukas-online.com/e/produkte/acryl_pa.htm
>Liquid paints: http://www.lukas-online.com/e/produkte/acryl_li.htm
>Model/Craft paints: http://www.lukas-online.com/e/produkte/paint.htm
>
>The models paints are colors that come in pots, most of the liquid paint
>line come in containers that resemble ketchup bottles (metallics are the
>exception here, they come in pots), and the paste paints come in tubes.
>They don't have the color range of their Model/Craft paints on their
>website, but it's a selection of paints from the liquid line and some
>intermediate colors not available in other lines, supplied in various sizes
>of pots. These model/craft paints have Very Nice metallics too, I have to
>say.
OK. These are standard artist's acrylic paints, which you'll need to thin down
for model/miniatures work. Shouldn't cause you any problem.
>All in all, I found them a lot to my liking, because of their availability
>and the way they look (They have the most beautiful ultramarine color I've
>seen, it even made me paint a vanilla ultramarine army after I finish my
>Blood Angels). They are considerably cheaper than Citadel paints too, so I
>might buy a bunch. The thing is, I don't know if they are actually as good
>to paint with as they look. Has anyone used Lukas brand acrylics before? I
>have experimented with a matte varnish produced by them and it seemed to do
>its job just fine. If anyone has tried these paints before, could you pass
>on your experiences with it? Also, even if you haven't tried them yet,
>judging by the color catalogues they have online, do you think what they
>have is enough? I've had no experience with acrylic paints aside from stuff
>I used from pots; would it be very hard for me to adapt to paste acrylics?
>Also, if anyone can check their liquid paints page, are the stuff they
>supply in ketchup-bottles (for lack of better term, if there is I'm not
>aware :) about the same thickness as pot acrylics?
Or you could do what I do, and just buy a single pot of black (or whatever) and
test it in your next batch of minis. Either you'll like it, or you won't. For
a few bucks, you'll find out very quickly.
>As I was shopping for these stuff, I came across a seemingly knowledgable
>art shop owner, and asked him about which acrylic white spray he'd recommend
>for me to use to undercoat plastic and metallic figures (since with the one
>I used before, I experienced some funny chipping problems). He snorted and
>told me that no matter how adhesive it may say on the spray can acrylic
>sprays would never stick to plastic figures forever, and that I should use
>cellulose based sprays if I want to prime plastic figures. Was he
>bullshitting me?
Nope. This is the difference between paint and primer. Primer is what keeps
paint sticking to the mini.
>I'll be checking some more stores (mostly department stores) for things I
>can turn into carrying cases, stuff I can use to strip paint and other
>accessories tomorrow, so I'll probably have yet another long post by then ;)
>Thanks to everyone who took the time to read all of this post and reply to
>it.
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Ishka Bibble
down
| for model/miniatures work. Shouldn't cause you any problem.
As someone who has a lot of art classes under his belt, the preceding
statement is misleading. Part of a paint's covering ability is dependant on
how finely ground the pigment is. If the pigment is too coarse, you will
have a problem with "painting over" small details of miniatures. If you do
thin it down, you might not get the same coverage as a paint made for
models.
|>, are the stuff they
| >supply in ketchup-bottles (for lack of better term, if there is I'm not
| >aware :) about the same thickness as pot acrylics?
Buy a cheapass white dinner plate and use it as your palette. Squirt a litle
bit of paint on, thin it to where you like it, and have a go. Just keep it
out of any spotlights you are using to paint. Plus you don't have any
involuntary paint jobs by accidently tipping a jar of paint over.
The chance of a pot of paint/pigment/ink tipping over is proportional to the
runnyness of the stuff. A congealed mass of paint will never tip over no
matter how much you use it, whereas a pot of ink is best kept in a soup
bowl, 'cause it'll tip over anyway, might as well keep it in one spot.
| Or you could do what I do, and just buy a single pot of black (or
whatever) and
| test it in your next batch of minis. Either you'll like it, or you won't.
For
| a few bucks, you'll find out very quickly.
I couldn't agree more here.
| >As I was shopping for these stuff, I came across a seemingly knowledgable
| >art shop owner, and asked him about which acrylic white spray he'd
recommend
| >for me to use to undercoat plastic and metallic figures (since with the
one
| >I used before, I experienced some funny chipping problems). He snorted
and
| >told me that no matter how adhesive it may say on the spray can acrylic
| >sprays would never stick to plastic figures forever, and that I should
use
| >cellulose based sprays if I want to prime plastic figures. Was he
| >bullshitting me?
|
| Nope. This is the difference between paint and primer. Primer is what
keeps
| paint sticking to the mini.
But mold release is what keeps paint from sticking. Wash those sprues in hot
soapy water.
Good luck on your paint adventures
Blue Raja
news:z17p8.157616$702.28222@sccrnsc02...
> But mold release is what keeps paint from sticking. Wash those sprues in
hot
> soapy water.
If I had to pick the single most important painting tip to give to a newbie,
this would be it.
I only started washing my sprues recently, but I've seen a tremendous
increase in both ease of painting and life of paint.
I wish I'd known to do it sooner; there's nothing worse than getting a mini
looking perfect, then having it chip during its first game.
--
The Blue Raja
"There are two types of people in the world: the bright and attractive
people like yourself who read Dilbert books, and the 6 billion idiots who
get in our way" - Scott Adams
RGMW FAQ - Just read the damn thing
http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
wayne rasmussen
Blue Raja wrote:
> "Ishka Bibble" <sp...@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:z17p8.157616$702.28222@sccrnsc02...
> > But mold release is what keeps paint from sticking. Wash those sprues in
> hot
> > soapy water.
>
> If I had to pick the single most important painting tip to give to a newbie,
> this would be it.
> I only started washing my sprues recently, but I've seen a tremendous
> increase in both ease of painting and life of paint.
> I wish I'd known to do it sooner; there's nothing worse than getting a mini
> looking perfect, then having it chip during its first game.
I have to admit, I used to wash lead minies but never thought of doing it to
plastic... Doh!
Martin J Blow
"John Hwang" <johnhw...@cs.com.no.com> wrote in message
news:20020329132210...@mb-fg.news.cs.com...
> >As I was shopping for these stuff, I came across a seemingly
knowledgable
> >art shop owner, and asked him about which acrylic white spray he'd
recommend
> >for me to use to undercoat plastic and metallic figures (since with
the one
> >I used before, I experienced some funny chipping problems). He
snorted and
> >told me that no matter how adhesive it may say on the spray can
acrylic
> >sprays would never stick to plastic figures forever, and that I
should use
> >cellulose based sprays if I want to prime plastic figures. Was he
> >bullshitting me?
>
> Nope. This is the difference between paint and primer. Primer is
what keeps
> paint sticking to the mini.
LOL! Cellulose based sprays to prime plastic figures. ROTFLMAO!
I've got figures going back 23 years that were primed with ordinary
paint and after much use over the last two decades they still look
very presentable. I suppose paint lasting on a figure 'forever' could
be a goal - but I'll just have to settle for it lasting the rest of my
lifetime.
Hell - I'd even be willing to send you photos of the VERY first
miniatures I ever painted - way back in 1979 and let you judge what
sort of wear has occured since then. And they're SOFT plastic figures
(not hard like today) too boot.
Don't get me wrong - I use spray primer - but a special primer just
for plastics? Not necessary IMO.
--
MJB
Mr. Tin's Miniature Painting Workshop:
http://members.blueskyweb.net/mrt...@blueskyweb.net/
Martin J Blow
"Blue Raja" <the_bl...@dingoblue.net.au.spamless> wrote in message
news:3ca597fe$0$17319$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
> I wish I'd known to do it sooner; there's nothing worse than getting
a mini
> looking perfect, then having it chip during its first game.
Chipped in it's first game?
How in the world do you finish it? I use Krylon satin-finish and my
figures can go years without damage. If you're just using a simple
matt finish that's not giving your figure any protection at all -
you've got to put something over the paint job that seals it. That's
what will stop chipping.
Torak
mini
> > looking perfect, then having it chip during its first game.
>
> Chipped in it's first game?
>
> How in the world do you finish it? I use Krylon satin-finish and my
> figures can go years without damage. If you're just using a simple
> matt finish that's not giving your figure any protection at all -
> you've got to put something over the paint job that seals it. That's
> what will stop chipping.
I don't tend to varnish mine at all, and the predominant colour on them is
standard Chaos Black spray undercoat, one layer. Even my oldest paint job
(about seven years now) hasn't chipped.
I tried the matt varnish a bunch of years ago, but the result was a bit
dodgy, haven't tried it since. In retrospect, I don't think I let the paint
underneath dry properly...
Blue Raja
news:a85k4o$r7o$1...@news.chatlink.com...
> > I wish I'd known to do it sooner; there's nothing worse than getting
> a mini
> > looking perfect, then having it chip during its first game.
>
> Chipped in it's first game?
Actually before that; before I'd had a chance to finish (I usually paint in
the evening/at night, so I can't use my spray finish then). The only ones
this has happened on have been metal as well. I've found that the paint
adheres much better to plastic.
Occasionally the paint will chip off very easily (again, before finishing),
just from bumping with the end of a brush or even picking up the mini.
Is it normal for the paint to be that fragile?