Using oil paints
wikd...@usa.net
professional oil paints. I was wondering how well these would work and
if there was anything I would need to do different from painting with
acrylics. Also, can I paint metallic paints over oil paints, or could
that cause problems?
Jonathan
wikd...@usa.net
Tip #47: Always name a figure Kenny. That way, when the opponent kills
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Donovan Borman
>I currently don't have any citadel paints, but I have a whole bunch of
>professional oil paints. I was wondering how well these would work and
>if there was anything I would need to do different from painting with
>acrylics. Also, can I paint metallic paints over oil paints, or could
>that cause problems?
For the love of god, NO! You'd have to prime the detail away for the oils to
hold. I'd only say use oils on banners (if life or death), funky terrain, or
goofy chaos stuff. Try it on a scrap mini and you'll see what I mean.
--
Donovan Borman
Imperial Guard Retirement Home
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Myrmidon
wikd...@usa.net wrote:
> I currently don't have any citadel paints, but I have a whole bunch of
> professional oil paints. I was wondering how well these would work and
> if there was anything I would need to do different from painting with
> acrylics. Also, can I paint metallic paints over oil paints, or could
> that cause problems?
>
> Jonathan
> wikd...@usa.net
>
No, I would DEFINITELY NOT recommend using oil paints on metal figures
at all. Here's why.
1 Oil paints are extremely slow in drying time (measured in days) unless
you add things to speed up the drying time. (They dry due to chemical
reactions, not evaporation like most acrylics.)
2 Oil paints have to be applied in a "lean to fat" mix otherwise the paint
will crack when it dries. (Lean to fat mix means that the layers of oil
paint on the bottom must be thinner, have less oils, and/or have an
accelerant to speed up their drying time. If you paint a lean (faster
drying) layer of oils over a fat layer, the top layer will dry and then
crack as the layer underneath it shrinks and stretches as it dries too.
You see this cracking effect on a lot of old paintings where the artist
just didn't know all the properties of their paints.)
3. You can just about forget handling minis that have been painted with
oil paints. Oil paints look "rich" and shiny for ages due to the oils that
remain in them. Unfortunately this means that the paint surface stays soft
for ages and handling will rub the paint off in no time.
4. You would have to use metallic oil paints (which aren't very good by
comparison to acrylic craft and hobby paints in my opinion) to paint oil
based figures. - see number 2.
Due to the properties of oil paint, you could paint oils over acrylic
paints (which dry much quicker and form a polymer plastic like surface) but
not vice versa. However the problem of the oils being soft would remain
and you would have to use a varnish over the top. The problem with
varnishes is that they tend to yellow with age and can dull the colors
underneath them.
You might try the Plaid line of inexpensive acrylic paints available at
stores like Wal-Mart. They are a great way to get started with acrylic
paints without going broke. And on the plus side, they really
(surprisingly) don't look bad at all on figures if you have any measure of
painting skill. Add to this the fact that acrylic paint can be stripped
from both plastic and metal minis using Castrol Super Clean without
damaging the minis and you've got a great medium that stands up to being
handled, and if you don't like your initial painting results, just strip
the little critters and try again.
I hope that helps.
Later,
Myrmidon