[Paint]House Paint question
Brian
paint shop. I was just wondering on peoples thoughts as too whether this is
a good idea for painting mini's or not.
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Brian C
aka Bolgar
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Robert Singers
> A friend of mine suggested getting sample pots of acrylic house paint
> from a paint shop. I was just wondering on peoples thoughts as too
> whether this is a good idea for painting mini's or not.
Absolutely not. But it is good for things like buildings made with Hirst
Arts blocks and terrain in general.
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Rob Singers
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fog
> Brian simpered meekly
>
> > A friend of mine suggested getting sample pots of acrylic house paint
> > from a paint shop. I was just wondering on peoples thoughts as too
> > whether this is a good idea for painting mini's or not.
I thought most housepaints were Latex or Oil based...
> Absolutely not. But it is good for things like buildings made with Hirst
> Arts blocks and terrain in general.
But, craft paints from Walmart are cheaper :)
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b
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Robert Singers
>> Absolutely not. But it is good for things like buildings made with Hirst
>> Arts blocks and terrain in general.
>
> But, craft paints from Walmart are cheaper :)
Not by volume. When you're painting plaster bricks you want to get a good
latex coating on them to protect them from moisture and from knocks. You
also tend to go through a bit of paint on a large structure. One block
probably has the same surface area as a mini.
fog
> fog simpered meekly
>
> >> Absolutely not. But it is good for things like buildings made with Hirst
> >> Arts blocks and terrain in general.
> >
> > But, craft paints from Walmart are cheaper :)
>
> Not by volume. When you're painting plaster bricks you want to get a good
> latex coating on them to protect them from moisture and from knocks. You
> also tend to go through a bit of paint on a large structure. One block
> probably has the same surface area as a mini.
So, you paint the entire block or just exposed areas? Also, if using
plaster, wouldn't it be a good idea to use a mold/mildew sealant like
Kill's before painting?
Qrab
<rsin...@naespam.hotmail.com> wrote:
> fog simpered meekly
>
> >> Absolutely not. But it is good for things like buildings made
> >> with Hirst Arts blocks and terrain in general.
> >
> > But, craft paints from Walmart are cheaper :)
>
> Not by volume. When you're painting plaster bricks you want to get
> a good latex coating on them to protect them from moisture and from
> knocks. You also tend to go through a bit of paint on a large
> structure. One block probably has the same surface area as a mini.
Doesn't the plaster absorb paint?
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Myrmidon
Bol...@UnderSizedFish.Bigfoot.com, Brian shouted out the following words
of wit...
> A friend of mine suggested getting sample pots of acrylic house paint from a
> paint shop. I was just wondering on peoples thoughts as too whether this is
> a good idea for painting mini's or not.
>
pigment particles suspended in a medium or vehicle of some sort - for
example acyrlic paints are pigments in a polymer acrylic vehicle. House
paint is no where near as finely ground as it's not ment for painting
fine/shallow detail like one would encounter on a 28mm mini. Using house
paint would be sort of like base coating your mini by simply dunking it in
the bottle and hoping that you didn't get any thick or chunky spots on
your miniature. Not a way to achieve a nice looking paint job by any
stretch of the imagination. If you want to avoid spending way to much on
GW paints - start with acrylic craft paints, and if you become more
proficient and decide you like painting - then move on to more expensive
commercial paints and artist grade paints.
Myrmidon
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Or...
Rob Singers
> Doesn't the plaster absorb paint?
Well it will to a certain extent. Woodland scenics sells dyes rather than
paints for plaster. I generally find that the house paint if not watered
down to much puts a good coating on the models.
Rob Singers
> So, you paint the entire block or just exposed areas? Also, if using
> plaster, wouldn't it be a good idea to use a mold/mildew sealant like
> Kill's before painting?
Nothing went moldy over winter so I think it should be ok with just the
outside painted.
Andy
> A friend of mine suggested getting sample pots of acrylic house paint from a
> paint shop. I was just wondering on peoples thoughts as too whether this is
> a good idea for painting mini's or not.
Bad idea.
Emulsion is great for terrain though.
I recommend anita's acrylics and the similar packaged ones - I fail to
recall the name - in the UK... for cheap acrylic.
Plaka protein based paints are cheap and OK, just you have to buy them
in big pots (like jam jar size) to get the savings and they take a day
to cure properly after drying.
Of high quality acrylics, liquitex pots are the best art ones, IMO.
I also like a whole bunch of other paints for the various reasons such
as colour party paints for their translucence and good military
colours.
Vallejo are excellent if a little pricey. The squeezy nozzles mean
you don't have a drying out problem with them and might mean you save
in the long term.
The excellent coverage they give can be a negative for layering
effects though.
The present GW paints I've tried and don't particularly like.. plus
the bottles are crap.
I like enamels actually... I started painting with these years back
when acrylics were rare and expensive. Only problem is the turps.
IMO.
Artists oils are a very nice medium. You need to be careful with
undercoating enamel or acrylic of appropriate colour though... but
they're fairly cheap and the way they work is pretty much unique.
Drying time is an issue.
Arguably far less so if you only have an hour to paint a day so
waiting a couple days for a coat to dry isn't a problem.
Drying on a radiator shelf or slow cooker are a must with oils.
Myrmidon
@lycos.co.uk, Andy shouted out the following words of wit...
> "Brian" <Bol...@UnderSizedFish.Bigfoot.com> wrote in message news:<ydD1a.8207$Xo.2...@news-server.bigpond.net.au>...
> > A friend of mine suggested getting sample pots of acrylic house paint from a
> > paint shop. I was just wondering on peoples thoughts as too whether this is
> > a good idea for painting mini's or not.
>
> Bad idea.
> Emulsion is great for terrain though.
>
<snippage>
> Of high quality acrylics, liquitex pots are the best art ones, IMO.
> I also like a whole bunch of other paints for the various reasons such
> as colour party paints for their translucence and good military
> colours.
I also like some of the Winsor & Newton range - depends on the paint
(ie what they used as a pigment). Of course the better the pigment, the
more expensive the paint.
> Vallejo are excellent if a little pricey. The squeezy nozzles mean
> you don't have a drying out problem with them and might mean you save
> in the long term.
Yes, having your paint NOT dry out before you have a chance to use
it = good.
> The excellent coverage they give can be a negative for layering
> effects though.
>
Rather than just thinning them with water, try using a transparent
acrylic medium - it's the acrylic vehicle with no pigment of any sort in
it. It thins the paint without making it pastel or washed out by mixing
in other pigments. I use the liquitex stuff myself.
> The present GW paints I've tried and don't particularly like.. plus
> the bottles are crap.
I like some of GW's Greens and Purples, and their inks. For
everything else, I use craft or artists grade acrylics which offer better
color, better price value, and don't come in crap containers that dry out
and or leak.
>
> I like enamels actually... I started painting with these years back
> when acrylics were rare and expensive. Only problem is the turps.
> IMO.
LOL - I started with crappy testors enamel model paint and quickly
moved on to Humbrol enamels which I really like, but aren't nearly as
common as they used to be around my area.
>
> Artists oils are a very nice medium. You need to be careful with
> undercoating enamel or acrylic of appropriate colour though... but
> they're fairly cheap and the way they work is pretty much unique.
You have to use the 'lean to fat' method. You have to do the bottom
layers in acrylics or enamels that dry fully. Then as you add oil paints
the lower layers have to be lean (less oil) to allow them to dry more
quickly than the layers above. On full sized oil paintings - if one
paints a lean layer on top of a slower drying layer of oil paint, the
surface layer will stretch and crack as it forms a skin over the still wet
layer beneath it. This was a problem with a lot of older paintings done
when the science of oil painting wasn't well understood.
> Drying time is an issue.
> Arguably far less so if you only have an hour to paint a day so
> waiting a couple days for a coat to dry isn't a problem.
They also make additives that speed up the drying rate of oil
paints.
> Drying on a radiator shelf or slow cooker are a must with oils.
Umm, I'm going to disagree here. With oil paints, what you're
talking about is an organic chemical reaction, and NOT evaporation. Heat
will influence the rates of reaction a bit - but not nearly as well as
including additives designed to decrease the drying time. In addition, by
using heat one runs the risk of damaging the pigment or vehicle of the oil
paint. This can cause all manner of problems, including a change in
color, loss of color intensity, or worse still - cause the paint to
rapidly form a yellowish film on the surface (looks like the tar film on
surfaces where lots of people smoke - Yuck!) All oil paints age, but by
heating the paint while it's curing, you can inadvertently rapidly
increase the aging process. At which point you're pretty well screwed and
will have to strip the mini. I'd highly suggest getting a hold of a newer
textbook on oil painting and paint chemistry and reading up on the
additives and oil paint formulas. Using the stuff made for oil paints
will likely give you better results in terms of drying times, and keep
your minis in great looking condition for longer times.
Hope that helps,
Blackheart
>In article <ydD1a.8207$Xo.2...@news-server.bigpond.net.au>,
>Bol...@UnderSizedFish.Bigfoot.com, Brian shouted out the following words
>of wit...
>> A friend of mine suggested getting sample pots of acrylic house paint from a
>> paint shop. I was just wondering on peoples thoughts as too whether this is
>> a good idea for painting mini's or not.
>>
> No - most quality paints are made of finely (or very finely) ground
>pigment particles suspended in a medium or vehicle of some sort - for
>example acyrlic paints are pigments in a polymer acrylic vehicle. House
>paint is no where near as finely ground as it's not ment for painting
>fine/shallow detail like one would encounter on a 28mm mini. Using house
>paint would be sort of like base coating your mini by simply dunking it in
>the bottle and hoping that you didn't get any thick or chunky spots on
>your miniature. Not a way to achieve a nice looking paint job by any
>stretch of the imagination. If you want to avoid spending way to much on
>GW paints - start with acrylic craft paints, and if you become more
>proficient and decide you like painting - then move on to more expensive
>commercial paints and artist grade paints.
or they can just pay me to paint for them... I'll only require about
$20 for a standard infantry figure...
John Hwang
>A friend of mine suggested getting sample pots of acrylic house paint
>from a paint shop. I was just wondering on peoples thoughts as too
>whether this is a good idea for painting mini's or not.
Probably not. House paint is probably not well-formulated for minis in terms
of pigment size and binding.
I'd stick with hobby or artists paint, if possible.
--
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Brian
Thanx for the replies guys and gals
I am currently using a GW box set and some of the old GW (coatd'Arms)
paints, as well as a few Humbrol Acrlyics. From things i have read and the
little experience i have (very Little) i will be chasing a source of
Coatd'Arms here in Melbourne or if need be on the web.
--
Brian C
aka Bolgar
Winning isn't everthing. Winning and Gloating and Rubbing their noses in
it....That's Everything.
Throw back the UndersizedFish to email me.
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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fog
> <Snip>
>
> Thanx for the replies guys and gals
> I am currently using a GW box set and some of the old GW (coatd'Arms)
> paints, as well as a few Humbrol Acrlyics. From things i have read and the
> little experience i have (very Little) i will be chasing a source of
> Coatd'Arms here in Melbourne or if need be on the web.
> --
> Brian C
> aka Bolgar
>
> Winning isn't everthing. Winning and Gloating and Rubbing their noses in
> it....That's Everything.
Oh dammit, we helped somebody. Our reputation is going down the toilet
now...