[Model] Scenery
Rob Singers
post. I can't remember who I was discussing it with but here are some
pictures http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/yodabob/minis-model.html.
--
Rob Singers
RGMW FAQ Maintainer. See it @ http://www.rgmw.org
Send submissions to submissions at rgmw dot org changing the obvious.
"I present to RGMW....the real life model for StrongBad." (c) Inc 2003
manickZe
"Rob Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns947574DC15A9Frsingers@IP-Hidden...
> I mentioned scenery made with Model Railway stone moulds the other day in
a
> post. I can't remember who I was discussing it with but here are some
> pictures http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/yodabob/minis-model.html.
>
Myrmidon
rsin...@finger.hotmail.com, Rob Singers shouted out the following words
of wit...
> I mentioned scenery made with Model Railway stone moulds the other day in a
> post. I can't remember who I was discussing it with but here are some
> pictures http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/yodabob/minis-model.html.
>
>
other sub-genuis like me can click on the link only to get a 404 error,
Hmmm? Grrr - Rob do bad! Bad Rob, Bad! :)
Now on to the terrain. I do like the rocks. (I've never been a fan of
using heavy card for a base. To me it just looks odd to see all the
terrain features sticking way up from the table top. I use a sturdy but
thin piece of hard plastic to base my stuff when at all practical.) The
plaster cast stuff is very nice, and the little skeletal remains are a
nice touch. Is it from one of the H.A. Dungeon molds?
The ruined hut is nice - but it's to clean. It needs some more small lose
brick or stone debris, and it could use a few clumps of tall weeds as
well. You could even get away with the old "trail of glue with flocking
on it" trick to make wall climbing vines. I don't know if you can find it
in your neck of the woods - but Brookhurst hobbies carries stuff (IIRC) by
Hudson & Allen called 'Leaf Litter' which is actually tiny scale leaves.
A few patches of that glued in the corners and/or along the walls would
complete the 'long abandon' look of the piece. Other wise, it's nicely
painted and will look sweet on the table top.
I like the Idea of the Tombs or Barrows. I do have a couple of
suggestions that might improve them. First is the doors pieces. The
doors themselves are fine, but they look funny with square door frames on
the small rounded hills. The door with the rough stone look to the frame
would have appealed to me more if some of the upper stones had been filed
off to leave it with the rounded arch only. You'll either need to round
off the arches a bit, make more square sloped mounds - or just plain make
larger barrow mounds to go with the doors. (In many similar type terrain
pieces, the hill was larger and the door actually set back into the
hillside some what.)
The second bit is the painting/flocking issue you mention about not
getting the flocking to cover evenly. It's one of the reasons I don't
tend to flock my hills - or at least not the level surfaces where the
minis are going to be set up. I'm not sure if you gesso'd the foam before
you painted it - or simply painted with acrylic paint. (I tend to use
gesso - followed by spray paint that's the exact same colors I used on my
table top.) In either case - using gesso or even green acrylic, mix in
some fine sand (and use a an old brush - the sand is hard on the
bristles). If you start with a medium green, you can do a splotchy dark
green wash, and then drybrush the whole in light green - then when you
apply the flock, it won't matter a bit if it's not perfect. It'll still
look just fine. (I do my bases on my minis with that process and I really
like the overall result.) You could also try applying some areas of
scrub foliage (the medium/large woodland scenics clump stuff) or glue down
fish tank / pea gravel as barrow stones showing through the top soil to
cover any areas that just aren't to your liking.
I do like the pieces you've made - and damn you now I want to make more
terrain, but I've got to sleep and keep the job to pay the bills. (The
wife was laughing at me today. We go to do some shopping at a couple of
the local 'home improvement' centers, and I bring a T-square and big long
metal ruler as well as a utility knife and a marker. Next thing she knows
there I am in the aisle slicing up a pair of 3/4 inch thick 4 x 8 foot
sheets of foam (for 40K multi-story ruined buildings) into 2 x 4 foot
sections so I can get them in the car for the ride home. She knows me all
to well - we also bought some tile samples to look at in our living room,
all the ones she didn't like ended up down stairs in my 'terrain
supplies' area without me saying anything. :)
Later,
Myrmidon
--
#1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.
- Eric Noland
# 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
raise a Warhammer army
- Roy Cox
http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/
****
RGMW FAQ: http://www.b3p0.com/~rgmw/
Or...
Rob Singers
wisdom
> In article <Xns947574DC15A9Frsingers@IP-Hidden>,
> rsin...@finger.hotmail.com, Rob Singers shouted out the following
> words of wit...
>> I mentioned scenery made with Model Railway stone moulds the other
>> day in a post. I can't remember who I was discussing it with but
>> here are some pictures
>> http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/yodabob/minis-model.html.
>>
>>
> What HTML genius puts a period at the end of a URL so that some
> other sub-genuis like me can click on the link only to get a 404
> error, Hmmm? Grrr - Rob do bad! Bad Rob, Bad! :)
sorry dont you just hate people who use punctuation and spelling and
stuf
> Now on to the terrain. I do like the rocks. (I've never been a fan
> of using heavy card for a base. To me it just looks odd to see all the
> terrain features sticking way up from the table top. I use a sturdy
> but thin piece of hard plastic to base my stuff when at all
> practical.)
This is the first scenery I've made so I've been working out of the GW
book. A guy from our Antenatal class works for a big hardware chain so
I'm going to hit him up about 6mm MDF off cuts. They should do nicely
for all future work. The benefit I see is that the edges can be filed
to create a more realistic slope.
> The plaster cast stuff is very nice, and the little
> skeletal remains are a nice touch. Is it from one of the H.A. Dungeon
> molds?
#266 Large Flagstone Accessory Mould. Having a quick count, my mate and
I appear to have 33 different moulds. There’s a few more we’d like but
the Obersturmführers have told us we have spent too much money on them
already. However there is not likely to be such a favourable exchange
rate for ever.
> The ruined hut is nice - but it's to clean. It needs some more small
> lose brick or stone debris, and it could use a few clumps of tall
> weeds as well. You could even get away with the old "trail of glue
> with flocking on it" trick to make wall climbing vines.
It's a quick job to get some scenery for an upcoming Dwarf vs Vampire
Counts rematch. I actually need to build my war machines and build some
Mordheim scenery.
> I don't know
> if you can find it in your neck of the woods - but Brookhurst hobbies
> carries stuff (IIRC) by Hudson & Allen called 'Leaf Litter' which is
> actually tiny scale leaves. A few patches of that glued in the
> corners and/or along the walls would complete the 'long abandon' look
> of the piece. Other wise, it's nicely painted and will look sweet on
> the table top.
When I get a bit more free spending money I'm going to invest in a bit
of scenery stuff. I have a good Model and Train shop nearby.
> I like the Idea of the Tombs or Barrows. I do have a couple of
> suggestions that might improve them. First is the doors pieces. The
> doors themselves are fine, but they look funny with square door frames
> on the small rounded hills. The door with the rough stone look to the
> frame would have appealed to me more if some of the upper stones had
> been filed off to leave it with the rounded arch only. You'll either
> need to round off the arches a bit, make more square sloped mounds -
> or just plain make larger barrow mounds to go with the doors. (In
> many similar type terrain pieces, the hill was larger and the door
> actually set back into the hillside some what.)
I was going to cut polystyrene into slabs of rocks and lay them over the
doorways. But as I made them while watching TV after destructoboy went
to bed I decided on the quick approach. I'm going to put a bit more
effort into some tombs and dwarf artefacts for dual WFB\Mordheim use
later. All these will go around to the VC general’s place. It’s not
like they cost very much to make. I’ll just keep making stuff for
practice. There appears to a bit of an art to working with polystyrene.
> The second bit is the painting/flocking issue you mention about not
> getting the flocking to cover evenly. It's one of the reasons I don't
> tend to flock my hills - or at least not the level surfaces where the
> minis are going to be set up. I'm not sure if you gesso'd the foam
> before you painted it - or simply painted with acrylic paint. (I tend
> to use gesso - followed by spray paint that's the exact same colors I
> used on my table top.) In either case - using gesso or even green
> acrylic, mix in some fine sand (and use a an old brush - the sand is
> hard on the bristles). If you start with a medium green, you can do a
> splotchy dark green wash, and then drybrush the whole in light green -
> then when you apply the flock, it won't matter a bit if it's not
> perfect. It'll still look just fine. (I do my bases on my minis with
> that process and I really like the overall result.) You could also
> try applying some areas of scrub foliage (the medium/large woodland
> scenics clump stuff) or glue down fish tank / pea gravel as barrow
> stones showing through the top soil to cover any areas that just
> aren't to your liking.
I did notice that the hills that I had applied sand on a while ago in my
first aborted scenery making attempt did flock the best. I have a bunch
of sand I bought to texture my wargaming table which I’ll probably use
in the future. Unfortunately using sand on the table turns it into a
giant piece of sandpaper. The 2’ x 4’ section I did scrapped clean
however so it was a problem.
> I do like the pieces you've made - and damn you now I want to make
> more terrain, but I've got to sleep and keep the job to pay the bills.
I like the pieces I’ve seen in your mini pics. My basic problem is I
don’t have the storage space. Once we buy a house it should be
different. Well unless I actually use it up my other hobbies :)
> (The wife was laughing at me today. We go to do some shopping at a
> couple of the local 'home improvement' centers, and I bring a T-square
> and big long metal ruler as well as a utility knife and a marker.
> Next thing she knows there I am in the aisle slicing up a pair of 3/4
> inch thick 4 x 8 foot sheets of foam (for 40K multi-story ruined
> buildings) into 2 x 4 foot sections so I can get them in the car for
> the ride home. She knows me all to well - we also bought some tile
> samples to look at in our living room, all the ones she didn't like
> ended up down stairs in my 'terrain supplies' area without me saying
> anything. :)
Some of the containers that the Obersturmführer bought for
destructoboy’s food have ended up in my modelling box. As have a few
other things she’s bought for various purposes.
Janet Quick
MPG.1a753589e...@news-server.woh.rr.com, "Myrmidon"
<Im...@home.com> wrote:
> In article <Xns947574DC15A9Frsingers@IP-Hidden>,
> rsin...@finger.hotmail.com, Rob Singers shouted out the following words
> of wit...
>> I mentioned scenery made with Model Railway stone moulds the other day in a
>> post. I can't remember who I was discussing it with but here are some
>> pictures http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/yodabob/minis-model.html.
>>
>>
> What HTML genius puts a period at the end of a URL so that some
> other sub-genuis like me can click on the link only to get a 404 error,
> Hmmm? Grrr - Rob do bad! Bad Rob, Bad! :)
>
<frowning> It works when I click on it, period and all.
I like the terrain too, only one comment...everything appears to be on a
hill. Is it meant to all be on hills?
Janet
--
Just remember, we're all in this alone.
Lily Tomlin
Rikk30
<rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote:
>I mentioned scenery made with Model Railway stone moulds the other day in a
>post. I can't remember who I was discussing it with but here are some
>pictures http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/yodabob/minis-model.html.
It was in one of the ebay terrain madness threads. Did you just mold
the rocks on top or the rocks and base? And how about the skeleton?
In Black Gobbo it has some nice info on making tank traps amongst
others that probable could be made to look more rock like as well.
Rikk
No computers were harmed while composing this post.
Robert Singers
> It was in one of the ebay terrain madness threads. Did you just mold
> the rocks on top or the rocks and base? And how about the skeleton?
Just the rocks. The base is cardboard and polystyrene. What I may do in
the future is use a piece of 6mm MDF as the base and place the the rocks on
a bed of polyfiller that I'll sculpt around them.
> In Black Gobbo it has some nice info on making tank traps amongst
> others that probable could be made to look more rock like as well.
Yeah that was interesting. As I've got the plaster I might give that a go.
However we don't really need 40K scenery.
Robert Singers
> I like the terrain too, only one comment...everything appears to be on
> a hill. Is it meant to all be on hills?
Yes. I like hills. I've even made a mountain. Odd for someone with an
army without cavalry don't you think :-)
Janet Quick
Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Out from under a rock popped Janet Quick and said
>
>> I like the terrain too, only one comment...everything appears to be on
>> a hill. Is it meant to all be on hills?
>
> Yes. I like hills. I've even made a mountain. Odd for someone with an
> army without cavalry don't you think :-)
It is rather dwarvish of you.
Janet
--
I'm never going to be famous. I don't do anything, not one single thing. I
used to bit my nails, but I don't even do that anymore.
Dorothy Parker
Robert Singers
> It is rather dwarvish of you.
I'm thinking that a mine entrance might have to be the next project.
Blue Raja
> > Now on to the terrain. I do like the rocks. (I've never been a fan
> > of using heavy card for a base. To me it just looks odd to see all the
> > terrain features sticking way up from the table top. I use a sturdy
> > but thin piece of hard plastic to base my stuff when at all
> > practical.)
>
> This is the first scenery I've made so I've been working out of the GW
> book. A guy from our Antenatal class works for a big hardware chain so
> I'm going to hit him up about 6mm MDF off cuts. They should do nicely
> for all future work. The benefit I see is that the edges can be filed
> to create a more realistic slope.
Two notes with MDF:
I've never had it happen, but as it's wood (or rather reconstituted wood
shavings) it's probably prone to warping. While making my modular terrain,
I used a "Liquid Nails" type glue to attach polystyrene sheets to my MDF.
Also, it will sand nicely, but be sure to wear a mask while doing so as the
sandings will be very fine and, although the wood is harmless, the adhesive
that holds the shavings together isn't.
Bonus tip: sand the MDF over a box and collect the sawdust for some free
flock.
--
The Blue Raja
"Besides, true evil never shows itself by trying to legitimizing itself.
Take 'Raja, for example. He's an EVIL little bastard and doesn't have to
announce it to the world. He decimates the millions with polite,
conversation and leaves a wake of devastation in his path." - Butch
RGMW FAQ - By order of Yoda Bob
http://www.rgmw.org
Robert Singers
> Two notes with MDF:
> I've never had it happen, but as it's wood (or rather reconstituted
> wood shavings) it's probably prone to warping. While making my
> modular terrain, I used a "Liquid Nails" type glue to attach
> polystyrene sheets to my MDF. Also, it will sand nicely, but be sure
> to wear a mask while doing so as the sandings will be very fine and,
> although the wood is harmless, the adhesive that holds the shavings
> together isn't.
Yes thanks. My carpentry skills are rather good thanks to my Grandfather.
:-)
> Bonus tip: sand the MDF over a box and collect the sawdust for some
> free flock.
I hate sawdust flock.
Insane Ranter
"Robert Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94768EAA3A9BBrsingers@IP-Hidden...
> Out from under a rock popped Blue Raja and said
>
> > Two notes with MDF:
> > I've never had it happen, but as it's wood (or rather reconstituted
> > wood shavings) it's probably prone to warping. While making my
> > modular terrain, I used a "Liquid Nails" type glue to attach
> > polystyrene sheets to my MDF. Also, it will sand nicely, but be sure
> > to wear a mask while doing so as the sandings will be very fine and,
> > although the wood is harmless, the adhesive that holds the shavings
> > together isn't.
>
> Yes thanks. My carpentry skills are rather good thanks to my Grandfather.
> :-)
>
> > Bonus tip: sand the MDF over a box and collect the sawdust for some
> > free flock.
>
> I hate sawdust flock.
>
Sell it then.
Janet Quick
Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Out from under a rock popped Janet Quick and said
>
>> It is rather dwarvish of you.
>
> I'm thinking that a mine entrance might have to be the next project.
Reminds me of one of my favorite exchanges from the Fellowship movie.
Gimli says something like: great dwarven doors are made so well that their
makers cannot find them when closed.
And Legolas mumbles: why does that not surprise me
Janet
--
When choosing between two evils, I always like
to try the one I've never tried before.
(Mae West)
Myrmidon
of wit...
> Myrmidon startled all and sundry by ejaculating the following words of
> wisdom
>
> > In article <Xns947574DC15A9Frsingers@IP-Hidden>,
> > rsin...@finger.hotmail.com, Rob Singers shouted out the following
> > words of wit...
> >> I mentioned scenery made with Model Railway stone moulds the other
> >> day in a post. I can't remember who I was discussing it with but
> >> here are some pictures
> >> http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/yodabob/minis-model.html.
> >>
> >>
> > What HTML genius puts a period at the end of a URL so that some
> > other sub-genuis like me can click on the link only to get a 404
> > error, Hmmm? Grrr - Rob do bad! Bad Rob, Bad! :)
>
> sorry dont you just hate people who use punctuation and spelling and
> stuf
>
Call the Grammar Nazis - break out the flails, chains, and rubber hoses!
We have a spelling error! WE HAVE A SPELLING ERROR!" <end sirens...>
This is a drill, only a drill. In the event of a real Grammar-Nazis
attack, you would have been flamed severly for the heinous crime of
leaving an 'f' off of the word 'stuff'. Everyone knows that there are far
to few instances of 'F' words being used on RGMW and that such things
simply can not be overlooked. (That and flaming you for making a mistake
on spelling or punctuation would only serve to further prove that Mike
Hunt has a small dick.)
You have been warned!
> > Now on to the terrain. I do like the rocks. (I've never been a fan
> > of using heavy card for a base. To me it just looks odd to see all the
> > terrain features sticking way up from the table top. I use a sturdy
> > but thin piece of hard plastic to base my stuff when at all
> > practical.)
>
> This is the first scenery I've made so I've been working out of the GW
> book.
Well, for a first go at scenery - not bad at all. As I said, I'm
not a fan of the really thick bases (which is pretty much a given with
cardboard basing) but I didn't knock of any style points for it either.
> A guy from our Antenatal class works for a big hardware chain so
> I'm going to hit him up about 6mm MDF off cuts. They should do nicely
> for all future work. The benefit I see is that the edges can be filed
> to create a more realistic slope.
>
MDF isn't bad - I do use it and like it, but as Raja pointed out -
there are a few issues such as warping and the 'glue/wood' saw dust that
can be hazzardous. The other problem with MDF (If I'm correct in thinking
that MDF is the same as what's called "Masonite" board here in the States)
is that depending on the manufacture, it doesn't always sand very well,
but gets sort of a fuzzy texture to it due to the fact it's wood particles
glued together rather than having an actual wood grain.
If MDF is indeed like Masonite board sold here in the States, there's two
general varieties of the stuff, one has a slightly rough surface on both
sides, and the better stuff has a smooth side with a slightly shiny
surface (which is treated with something to seal it).
If you're worried about warping which usually happens due to being left in
old garages or basements with a lot of moisture, but which can also happen
if left in direct sunlight & hot dry conditions (like the hot backseat of
a car) you can try sealing the board with Gesso after it's been cut to
size and shape. Seal one side and the edges, and let it dry completely,
then go and seal the remaining side with gesso. (This basically helps
keep the moisture of the wood sealed in and at a constant level so the
board doesn't warp.)
> > The plaster cast stuff is very nice, and the little
> > skeletal remains are a nice touch. Is it from one of the H.A. Dungeon
> > molds?
>
> #266 Large Flagstone Accessory Mould. Having a quick count, my mate and
> I appear to have 33 different moulds. There’s a few more we’d like but
> the Obersturmführers have told us we have spent too much money on them
> already. However there is not likely to be such a favourable exchange
> rate for ever.
Oh, you dog you! 33 molds? That's got to be a lot of good stuff.
Now then - what's your latest take on which plasters and what
water/plaster mix ratios work best? I'd love to see a bit more about
this from someone with a bit of experience with the H.A. molds.
>
> > The ruined hut is nice - but it's to clean. It needs some more small
> > lose brick or stone debris, and it could use a few clumps of tall
> > weeds as well. You could even get away with the old "trail of glue
> > with flocking on it" trick to make wall climbing vines.
>
> It's a quick job to get some scenery for an upcoming Dwarf vs Vampire
> Counts rematch. I actually need to build my war machines and build some
> Mordheim scenery.
>
Ok, I can almost buy that excuse. But don't let it happen again. I
mean come on - how hard is it to put together a couple of plastic skellys
to proxy some war machines? You could even arm them with cross-bows and
the likeness would be damn near perfect.
> > I don't know
> > if you can find it in your neck of the woods - but Brookhurst hobbies
> > carries stuff (IIRC) by Hudson & Allen called 'Leaf Litter' which is
> > actually tiny scale leaves. A few patches of that glued in the
> > corners and/or along the walls would complete the 'long abandon' look
> > of the piece. Other wise, it's nicely painted and will look sweet on
> > the table top.
>
> When I get a bit more free spending money I'm going to invest in a bit
> of scenery stuff. I have a good Model and Train shop nearby.
Yeah, that's where I always like to start shopping for the scenery
stuff. Though seriously - the leaf litter stuff is hard to find so
Brookhurst is worth emailing about it if you're interested.
>
> > I like the Idea of the Tombs or Barrows. I do have a couple of
> > suggestions that might improve them. First is the doors pieces. The
> > doors themselves are fine, but they look funny with square door frames
> > on the small rounded hills. The door with the rough stone look to the
> > frame would have appealed to me more if some of the upper stones had
> > been filed off to leave it with the rounded arch only. You'll either
> > need to round off the arches a bit, make more square sloped mounds -
> > or just plain make larger barrow mounds to go with the doors. (In
> > many similar type terrain pieces, the hill was larger and the door
> > actually set back into the hillside some what.)
>
> I was going to cut polystyrene into slabs of rocks and lay them over the
> doorways. But as I made them while watching TV after destructoboy went
> to bed I decided on the quick approach. I'm going to put a bit more
> effort into some tombs and dwarf artefacts for dual WFB\Mordheim use
> later. All these will go around to the VC general’s place. It’s not
> like they cost very much to make. I’ll just keep making stuff for
> practice. There appears to a bit of an art to working with polystyrene.
Yeah, it does take a bit of practice to work polystyrene and get
really good results. With your door mold that has the square frame of
rectangular blocks, you could make sort of a 'stepped' pyramid (aztec
type)looking mound - you wouldn't even have to have perfect levels, you
could just give it the general outline and make it look as if it was built
in steps form and then covered over completely in dirt, and that time and
errosion has finally removed a lot of the dirt to start to reveal loose
rock and the main stone shape beneath.
I seriously think that with the 2nd door frame you should consider
cutting/filling off some of the rocks above the rounded arch protion of
the frame and make the hill/barrow mound just a little bigger. I
seriously think you'll find that by rounding the door frame and recessing
back into a slightly larger hill the overall effect is much more pleasing.
>
> > The second bit is the painting/flocking issue you mention about not
> > getting the flocking to cover evenly. It's one of the reasons I don't
> > tend to flock my hills - or at least not the level surfaces where the
> > minis are going to be set up. I'm not sure if you gesso'd the foam
> > before you painted it - or simply painted with acrylic paint. (I tend
> > to use gesso - followed by spray paint that's the exact same colors I
> > used on my table top.) In either case - using gesso or even green
> > acrylic, mix in some fine sand (and use a an old brush - the sand is
> > hard on the bristles). If you start with a medium green, you can do a
> > splotchy dark green wash, and then drybrush the whole in light green -
> > then when you apply the flock, it won't matter a bit if it's not
> > perfect. It'll still look just fine. (I do my bases on my minis with
> > that process and I really like the overall result.) You could also
> > try applying some areas of scrub foliage (the medium/large woodland
> > scenics clump stuff) or glue down fish tank / pea gravel as barrow
> > stones showing through the top soil to cover any areas that just
> > aren't to your liking.
>
> I did notice that the hills that I had applied sand on a while ago in my
> first aborted scenery making attempt did flock the best. I have a bunch
> of sand I bought to texture my wargaming table which I’ll probably use
> in the future. Unfortunately using sand on the table turns it into a
> giant piece of sandpaper. The 2’ x 4’ section I did scrapped clean
> however so it was a problem.
Bingo! The whole sand paper effect is the number one reason why I
don't texture any of the flat protions of the hills I make, and often
don't texture the flat portions of any terrain bases if they're of any
size. Texture is fine on the slopes and other areas where you aren't
going to be standing minis on, but on the flat surfaces it's more trouble
to me than it's worth. Texture on surfaces where wobblely models are
supposed to stand invariably means that they'll fall over and/or otherwise
be a pain in the ass to move around and deal with. I'd personally rather
have a piece of terrain that works well with minis and is less than
diorama quaility rather than one that looks great but is useless with
minis.
>
> > I do like the pieces you've made - and damn you now I want to make
> > more terrain, but I've got to sleep and keep the job to pay the bills.
>
> I like the pieces I’ve seen in your mini pics. My basic problem is I
> don’t have the storage space. Once we buy a house it should be
> different. Well unless I actually use it up my other hobbies :)
>
Well, I've got a bit less space for my hobby stuff now that I'm
married (had a whole hobby room, plus the gaming table on the enclosed
patio with more shelves - was just a bit cold out there during the winter
at times, but the light was great and sitting out there drinking a beer
while gaming was always a pleasure) but my work area is nice, and once I
get the shelving in the storage rooms organized, I should have plenty of
space for my unused materials as well as all my gaming stuff.
> > (The wife was laughing at me today. We go to do some shopping at a
> > couple of the local 'home improvement' centers, and I bring a T-square
> > and big long metal ruler as well as a utility knife and a marker.
> > Next thing she knows there I am in the aisle slicing up a pair of 3/4
> > inch thick 4 x 8 foot sheets of foam (for 40K multi-story ruined
> > buildings) into 2 x 4 foot sections so I can get them in the car for
> > the ride home. She knows me all to well - we also bought some tile
> > samples to look at in our living room, all the ones she didn't like
> > ended up down stairs in my 'terrain supplies' area without me saying
> > anything. :)
>
> Some of the containers that the Obersturmführer bought for
> destructoboy’s food have ended up in my modelling box. As have a few
> other things she’s bought for various purposes.
>
Hehe! That's why I'll probably never get remarried - it's taken all
this time just to train this one not to throw interesting looking things
in the garbage without asking me first if I can use it for terrain making.
Myrmidon
--
He really should pay us for that you know, you can't just have any old yob
carrying on these traditions.
- Kurt
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Rob Singers
wisdom
> If you're worried about warping which usually happens due to being
> left in old garages or basements with a lot of moisture, but which can
> also happen if left in direct sunlight & hot dry conditions (like the
> hot backseat of a car) you can try sealing the board with Gesso after
> it's been cut to size and shape. Seal one side and the edges, and let
> it dry completely, then go and seal the remaining side with gesso.
> (This basically helps keep the moisture of the wood sealed in and at a
> constant level so the board doesn't warp.)
Actually I use commercial sealer for Masonite or Dry Wall (IIRC that's
the right merken equivalents). It's worth doing. A litre tin lasts for
ages. I bought it originally to seal some MDF shelving.>
[snip]
> Oh, you dog you! 33 molds? That's got to be a lot of good stuff.
> Now then - what's your latest take on which plasters and what
> water/plaster mix ratios work best? I'd love to see a bit more about
> this from someone with a bit of experience with the H.A. molds.
We use hydrostone (IIRC). I haven't actually done any casting since
before Will was born but I had better luck mixing volumetrically than my
mate did by weight. Something like 2:1 if I remember right. think I've
posted about it before so I might have to google myself before I start
casting again :-)
[snip]
> Ok, I can almost buy that excuse. But don't let it happen again.
> I mean come on - how hard is it to put together a couple of plastic
> skellys to proxy some war machines? You could even arm them with
> cross-bows and the likeness would be damn near perfect.
Oh I have all the war machines - half painted - I just need to finish
them :-) As well as lots of nearly finished skellys.