Yellow Armour
Matt C
Captain.
Never painted yellow armour before, and I'm looking for advice.
Based on GW's own paint range, please (yeah, yeah, I know...)
Undercoat in white, right?
And then.... ?
Jim M
ne...@gonna.happen.co.uk says...
use a black paint wash over that to neutralize the white slightly and
darken the areas that need shading then paint the yellow areas...
--
Jim M
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Tim Fitzmaurice
> White will give you a very bright yellow, I would primer white and then
> use a black paint wash over that to neutralize the white slightly and
> darken the areas that need shading then paint the yellow areas...
Is grey primer a possible option??
Tim
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news:Xns97637BB57607ne...@194.117.143.53...
How about painting it with a smooth layer of Bleached Bone, then solidly
coating the model in yellow ink? I've not tried it, but it sounds in theory
like it should work.
Tim
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Myrmidon
ne...@gonna.happen.co.uk Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
My advice is similar to Jim M's but not exactly the same.
1. Start with a white primer.
2. Give the mini a wash of a warm brown color - ink would be best. And
use a brush to get the warm brown color down in the recessed areas of
the armor - I.e. don't just cover the whole thing in brown, try to leave
a good amount of uncovered white on your armor surfaces, etc. If you
don't think the recessed areas are dark enough, apply another wash(es)
until you're happy with the results.
* If you have areas where you end up with excess coverage with the brown
ink, wait for the model to dry completely, and then go back in and dry
brush the affected areas in white.
3. Give the mini a wash of orange ink. This wash you can apply over all
the surfaces you're going to paint yellow, and it won't hurt if it gets
down into the areas with the brown. (Obviously you don't want to smear
or remove your brown ink).
At this point, other than the skin areas (which you can just wash with
the brown and leave until you paint them in skin tones), your model
should be colored ranging from a thin warm orange color to darker warm
orange-browns in the recesses. Again, once all your ink is completely
dry - if need be you can dry brush to white those areas that you want to
be the brightest yellow - then start applying your yellows. To preserve
your 'under painting' and give your mini a greater depth of color -
start with thin layers of yellow applied to the 'center' of legs, should
pads, etc where the yellow should be brightest/strongest and work out
towards the recessed areas where your shaded washes are strongest.
Since you're using GW yellows (which are often kind of thin paints to
begin with) you can start painting without a lot of tweaking of your
paint before hand. And again, don't over-load the brush with a lot of
paint and cover up all your underlying tones. Let the orange and browns
show through the yellow at the edges of the yellow surfaces.
The idea is that it should have the effect of varying in color from a
warm bright yellow over most of the surface to a warm
yellow/orange/brown effect in the recessed areas to create the illusion
of increased depth and to add some variation to create visual interest.
It'll be a slow process if you do it this way, but if you work on this
in stages and work on other minis while you're letting the various
stages dry, you can get some stunning results and still not spend
excessive amounts of time / sanity on that one mini.
(The reason I don't recommend a black wash is that while it'd look 'ok'
in the recessed areas, it'll make any of the areas that're supposed to
be bright yellow look muddy and dull. If you want black lining - either
use a really good small brush (like 000 or smaller) and very liquid
black paint, or go with a small technical pen (like .05mm).
Hope that helps,
Myrmidon :)
--
"I'm already impoverished from buying wargames minis,
and I'm too knackered for riotous living..."
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RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
Jim M
tj...@cus.cam.ac.uk says...
over white will give you. Try both on some other cheap models and see
which you like best...
Jim M
Im...@home.com says...
I bow to Myr's superior knopwledge of color theory...hmmm brown...<checks
paint box>burnt sienna, raw umbra, red, yellow, blue, green, orange
violet, mahogany, rawhide, leather hmmm no brown...exactly what shade of
black is that anyway???
John Hwang
I think a good yellow basically uses a wash technique. I would basecoat
in a very pale light grey, highlight to white, shade to black. Then I
would paint thin layers of yellow on top, finishing with thin layered
white over highlights. This should give deep shadows, bright highlight,
and a smooth yellow.
I wouldn't use any orange or brown in the base or wash, because that
could lead to a bone / tan / orange tint.
Nor would I use blue in the shadows, because that would produce a
greenish tint.
--
--- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
John Hwang
> How about painting it with a smooth layer of Bleached Bone, then solidly
> coating the model in yellow ink? I've not tried it, but it sounds in theory
> like it should work.
That doesn't quite work. It will give a yellowish color, but not the
kind of saturated yellow that you need for canonical Imperial Fists.
You can use yellow ink over white and get a good result, which should be
a bit brighter and glossier than using thinned yellow paint.
John Hwang
> Im...@home.com says...
>>Matt C, ne...@gonna.happen.co.uk Varfed
>>1. Start with a white primer.
>>
>>2. Give the mini a wash of a warm brown color - ink would be best.
>>3. Give the mini a wash of orange ink.
>>then start applying your yellows.
> I bow to Myr's superior knopwledge of color theory...
It's just getting different types of "yellow":
You produce a kind of gritty (i.e. "blackened") yellow.
Myr produces a warm (i.e. "orangish") yellow.
I produce a slightly desaturated (i.e. "greyed") yellow, of course.
There's no perfect answer per se, just different styles and effects that
work better in different army contexts.
Robert Singers
Prime grey, paint joints black. Dry brush joint bits grey. Basecoat
armour plates light brown. Use multiple light coats of yellow paint, but
make sure you don't quite paint as close to the edge each time.
Jim M
says...
>
> It's just getting different types of "yellow":
>
> You produce a kind of gritty (i.e. "blackened") yellow.
>
When a paint wash is mixed don't use water, use a glass cleaner (such as
windex or a cheapo equivelent). This will allow the paint to flow more
smoothly and allow you more control as to where the paint goes. When you
"wash" your mini don't just slop on the wash over the whole figure, you
want the paint to go into the recessed areas and along the edges of those
areas and not over the areas that may need highlights. I did not include
that in my earlier post because I had reasoned that the original poster
was not a compleat moron when it comes to painting.
Myrmidon
ne...@gonna.happen.co.uk Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
Here's a tutorial I just ran across on painting yellow over a black
undercoat...
http://www.skullwhite.com/yellowtutorial.htm
Hope that helps,
Myr :)
--
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again. My thane is starting to look real good tho'. Damnit Myr
I'm an Evil Genius not a safety freak.
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Matt C
server.woh.rr.com:
> In article <Xns97637BB57607ne...@194.117.143.53>, Matt
C,
> ne...@gonna.happen.co.uk Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>> OK, I've just acquired Captain Lysander - the Imperial Fists
Terminator
>> Captain.
>> Never painted yellow armour before, and I'm looking for advice.
>>
>> Based on GW's own paint range, please (yeah, yeah, I know...)
>>
>> Undercoat in white, right?
>> And then.... ?
>>
>
> Here's a tutorial I just ran across on painting yellow over a black
> undercoat...
>
> http://www.skullwhite.com/yellowtutorial.htm
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Myr :)
>
Interesting... thanks.
Actually, thanks to everyone who's offered help and suggestions.
Now all I've got to do is find tim to have a crack at it and take some
pics.
John Hwang
> JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com says...
>>It's just getting different types of "yellow":
>>
>>You produce a kind of gritty (i.e. "blackened") yellow.
>
> Oh bullshit.
Jim, you wrote:
"primer white and then use a black paint wash over that to neutralize
the white slightly and darken the areas that need shading"
If that is all that he does, then that is *exactly* what will happen.
> When a paint wash is mixed don't use water, use a glass cleaner (such as
> windex or a cheapo equivelent).
Why not? I use water just fine. Of course, my paints are thinned with
rubbing alcohol, so the net effect is probably the same.
> This will allow the paint to flow more smoothly and
> allow you more control as to where the paint goes.
Yes.
> When you "wash" your mini don't just slop on the wash over
> the whole figure,
That depends on the effect you want.
> you want the paint to go into the recessed areas and along
> the edges of those areas and not over the areas that may
> need highlights.
So you're *really* recommending more of a "blacklining" technique, than
a "wash" technique. If that's what you meant, just say so.
> I did not include that in my earlier post because I had
> reasoned that the original poster
> was not a compleat moron when it comes to painting.
That may be, but your instructions leave a *lot* to be desired. When
you made key technique assumptions about wash mixes and blacklining,
assuming that he's going to do as you do.
And there's nothing wrong with producing a gritty yellow, if that's what
is desired.
Jon Hedge
"John Hwang" <JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com> wrote in message
news:QMdGf.17318$xs4.12350@trnddc01...
>
> I produce a slightly desaturated (i.e. "greyed") yellow, of course.
>
Take that totally out of context, and it's outtakeable.
--
Jon Hedge,
"The chances are, I said it in jest."
RGMW FAQ @ http://www.rgmw.org
Jim M
says...
them with thinned paint. A wash is something you do with thinned paint,
If I had meant black line then I would have said to black line and not
use a wash. Stop trying to put determine what I meant as being different
then what I have said. Every painter develops his(her) own techniques
when it comes to the mixing of washes. I assume that what ever works for
one person may not be the preferred method for others. If you thin your
paints with alcohol first then water would work fine for you, though I
tend to thing that the working time would be very short as alcohol
evaporites rapidly. I don't thin my paints unless I need to for what ever
effect I am trying to achieve. Of course as I said before I didn't go
into details on how to wash a figure because I didn't think the poster
was a moron when it comes to painting. IF I was wrong about that perhaps
he will correct me...
Myrmidon
01.iinet.net.au>, Jon Hedge, ihug.com.au@dopefish Varfed out the
following in Timo speak...
>
> news:QMdGf.17318$xs4.12350@trnddc01...
> >
> > I produce a slightly desaturated (i.e. "greyed") yellow, of course.
> >
>
> Take that totally out of context, and it's outtakeable.
>
Sooo, I take it you *won't* be sampling the free pop-corn at Mr. Hwang's
house on movie night? ;)
Myr -it's polydesaturated butter, no really- midon :)
--
I've been thinking about the useless units posted in the ongoing [GW]
(Eldar) thread. So I thought I'd post a list using 'mostly' useless
units.
I think it should be called 'And they shall know no second turn'.
- Kweezilnaart
Matt C
Progress report time:
I've tried out a few things on some old marines.
Undercoat in white
Basecoat armour in Golden Yellow
A coat of neat Flesh Wash (the old, old style which was basically
thinned brown ink)
2 thin coats of Golden Yellow
A heavy highlight of Sunburst Yellow
A medium highlight of Bad Moon Yellow
Done.
I might pick out the edges with some Bad Moon / Skull White mix when
it's finished.
Or I might not....
I have every intention of doing a site with pics of this, but then I've
had the same intention for years.
Thanks for all the advice !
Jim M
ne...@gonna.happen.co.uk says...
should do it, you found your own way...I knew you weren't a Moron! I look
forward to seeing a picture of the finished mini.
John Hwang
> ne...@gonna.happen.co.uk says...
>>>Never painted yellow armour before, and I'm looking for advice.
>>I've tried out a few things on some old marines.
>>A coat of neat Flesh Wash (the old, old style which was basically
>>thinned brown ink)
Flesh wash is a much lighter brown than Brown wash.
>>Thanks for all the advice !
Did you actually use any of it?
> So what your saying is that after we all gave our opinions on how you
> should do it, you found your own way...
Time waster.
Matt C
>
>>>I've tried out a few things on some old marines.
>
>>>A coat of neat Flesh Wash (the old, old style which was basically
>>>thinned brown ink)
>
> Flesh wash is a much lighter brown than Brown wash.
>
>>>Thanks for all the advice !
>
> Did you actually use any of it?
>
>> So what your saying is that after we all gave our opinions on how you
>> should do it, you found your own way...
>
> Time waster.
>
>
Well, lemme see:
Time waster - yeah, probably.
Flesh Wash - my one is in a pot with a blue flip-top lid, and there's a
fairly thick layer of it dried to the inside of the lid. So it might be
a bit darker than it was origionally. Also, doesn't the new Flesh Wash
have a red tinge to it?
Did I use any of the advice?
Yeah - Myrmidon said about using brown washes over the whole figure for
the shading.
Also, I tried out a few of the other suggestions that were made, and
went with what I liked. So there ya go.
Now all I need to do is find some clue as to where my web space is, and
dig out my HTML notes.
Oh, and paint the figure, and take pictures, and...
Hopefully I'll have more time for that kind of thing now I've found a
job...
John Hwang
>>Time waster.
> doesn't the new Flesh Wash have a red tinge to it?
No idea - I only have the old stuff. ;)
> Did I use any of the advice?
> Yeah
Ok, then it's not a waste.
> Oh, and paint the figure, and take pictures, and...
Heh.
> Hopefully I'll have more time for that kind of thing now I've found a
> job...
Welcome (back?) to the world of the working.
Matt C
>> job...
>
> Welcome (back?) to the world of the working.
>
Working for the Customs and Revenue (Customs and Excise merged with the
Inland Revenue last year. Think of it as a kind of Darth Hitler.)
I'm completely knackered.
Painting on Wednesday.... tomorrow is Valentine's Day, which of course
means I'll be in the pub watching Liverpool Vs Arsenal.