[40k] First photos up on RGMW Genbus
P Bowles
photos are in a folder on the RGMW Yahoo group:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rgmw-genbus/lst?.dir=/P+Bowles&.src=g
r&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/
Devilfish: I really think dark green suits this (and Tau in general).
Unfortunately I ran into difficulties with the emblem - for some reason Tau'n
isn't one of the septs represented by the transfers in the Devilfish kit, and
I'm not buying overpriced FW transfer sheets. My painted Tau'n symbol worked
rather better on the doors than it did on the front, sadly. Not sure if the
Cylonesque red band really works - it looks okay from this angle, but it's not
great from the front.
Falcon: For some reason I couldn't get a clear photo of my Vyper and Guardians
came out grainy in close-up (I used a lot of heavy drybrushing), so this is the
representative of the Craftworld Daal-En colour scheme. Infantry will follow
when I have time.
Fire Dragon Exarch: Simply because I love this model and it's probably my
best-painted figure to date (no rude comments from anyone who doesn't like him,
please).
Fire Warrior: The only one I've been able to upload so far. From the front the
undersuit and T'au badge aren't very visible, so I went for an angle that shows
all the colours used in this Tau's uniform. Close-ups of Fire Warriors from
other angles will follow.
Philip Bowles
John Hwang
>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rgmw-genbus/
>Devilfish:
Dark green is a great base color for Tau. I'd have gone with more subdued
insignia, and a different accent color, either a black, white, a somewhat
darker grey, or a more saturated blue.
> Not sure if theCylonesque red band
>really works
Try a bright yellow.
>Falcon:
>representative of the Craftworld Daal-En
OK, tho I'm not entirely sure about the accents.
>Fire Dragon Exarch:
OK, tho why the green accent against red?
>Fire Warrior:
Like Devilfish, this looks good. A warm brown contrast for the soft suit would
have been good.
IMO, you should really look into "magic dip". Your painting style is perfect
for finishing with magic dip (or Tamiya Smoke).
--
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
P Bowles
johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) writes:
>pbo...@aol.com (P Bowles) wrote:
>>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rgmw-genbus/
>
>>Devilfish:
>
>Dark green is a great base color for Tau. I'd have gone with more subdued
>insignia,
That's just my thick brush-strokes with the white paint...
and a different accent color, either a black, white, a somewhat
>darker grey, or a more saturated blue.
It's true that the blue-grey doesn't work as well on the flat surfaces of this
vehicle as it does on the textured Fire Warrior undersuit, but I've minimised
its use on the tank, just so that the whole thing isn't completely green.
>> Not sure if theCylonesque red band
>>really works
>
>Try a bright yellow.
Um. Actually, I was thinking of turning it black and subduing it - the red just
seems out of place as a splash of colour there, and so would yellow.
>>Falcon:
>
>>representative of the Craftworld Daal-En
>
>OK, tho I'm not entirely sure about the accents.
Red, black and gold are all colours that provide a good contrast. I'll try to
get some infantry photos showing the scheme up tonight.
>>Fire Dragon Exarch:
>
>OK, tho why the green accent against red?
Because it seemed to work... I based this to some extent on GW's colour scheme
for this model, which I liked but which is anything was a little heavier on the
green.
>>Fire Warrior:
>
>Like Devilfish, this looks good.
And unlike the Eldar, you mean? :-) Thanks anyway.
A warm brown contrast for the soft suit
>would
>have been good.
I've heard you tend to favour darker shades. I specifically didn't want a
particularly dark undersuit (and I have more than enough green-and-brown models
in my Wood Elves).
>IMO, you should really look into "magic dip". Your painting style is perfect
>for finishing with magic dip (or Tamiya Smoke).
>
What's magic dip?
Thanks for the comments.
Philip Bowles
Myrmidon
pbo...@aol.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> It's taken most of the evening with the computer playing up, but my first four
> photos are in a folder on the RGMW Yahoo group:
>
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rgmw-genbus/lst?.dir=/P+Bowles&.src=g
> r&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/
Excellent. I see you've mastered the fine art of posting pics on
Yahoo without undue difficult considering your speed at getting the task
done. In addition you've managed to avoid posting pictures that are
obnoxiously huge - which could be potential problem as the space Yahoo
provides is limited. If you have any graphics software - it's helpful
to keep a couple of points in mind. One, most computer monitors only
have a ratio of 72 or 96 dots per inch - so any excess visual info
either causes the picture to be displayed extremely large or is simply
wasted. (Having a high dpi ratio is what you want when printing high
resolution pictures, but is counter productive when trying to make image
files stream lined for fast downloading.) Two - with that in mind, a
good graphics program will allow you to set both the screen size (like X
cm by X cm) as well as the dpi. So ideally you'd want to set the dpi
of the image to somewhere between 72 and 100 dpi, and determine what
maximum size you want the image to appear at on the monitor. That way
the image doesn't loose any detailing and fits reasonably well in the
viewable area on a monitor without taking an age to download.
>
> Devilfish: I really think dark green suits this (and Tau in general).
> Unfortunately I ran into difficulties with the emblem - for some reason Tau'n
> isn't one of the septs represented by the transfers in the Devilfish kit, and
> I'm not buying overpriced FW transfer sheets. My painted Tau'n symbol worked
> rather better on the doors than it did on the front, sadly. Not sure if the
> Cylonesque red band really works - it looks okay from this angle, but it's not
> great from the front.
I like your Devilfish shot the best. For whatever reason there
looks to be a good bit of variation in the green of the main body (which
is visually interesting), and the blue you've used works well with it.
As for the painted symbols - what size paint brush did you use? I'm
guessing from the looks that it was one that was really to large for the
task at hand. If you don't have any 00 or 000 sized paint brushes -
invest in a few good ones (like artists grade) and use them only for
detail painting. With proper use & care they'll last a very long time
and give you good results as well. (If you haven't already seen the
article on paint brush care on RGMW.org that John and I put together,
get cracking and read it!) And good brushes do make a *great deal* of
difference in how well one can paint. As for the red band of the front
cockpit window - it quite simply needs some variation to suggest it's
glass rather than a flat metal part. Blending here would be idea with
a light to dark scheme to suggest a reflective surface and to render it
visually distinct from the rest of the craft. You could even follow up
with some very fine detailing with pure white to suggest reflected light
flare, but the even the most simple of color/value variation would help
to pull the red area out.
>
> Falcon: For some reason I couldn't get a clear photo of my Vyper and Guardians
> came out grainy in close-up (I used a lot of heavy drybrushing), so this is the
> representative of the Craftworld Daal-En colour scheme. Infantry will follow
> when I have time.
Looks like a nice job. As for the camera troubles, first up are
you using a tripod? If not, consider investing in a mini tripod for
shooting small items. The mini tripods are inexpensive compared to a
full size tripod if you have no other need for a full sized tripod.
Having a pulse (and thus jiggling the camera) is one of the biggest
impediments to getting a clear shot of a mini. Next up is the question
- what sort of zoom does it have? If it has a 'macro zoom' specific
feature, then this is what you'd want to use if possible to shoot your
mini's pictures with.
As for the Falcon itself - I'm with John on this one in that the
accents look odd or otherwise overly stand out against the uniformity of
the blue-gray of the main body. As a suggestion you might try blending
to get a slight over all variation in the main body color/value.
(Everyone seems to freak out at the thought of blending - but it isn't
difficult at all - particularly not with acrylics.) Lighter around the
edges and darker (or deeper blue) towards the center of the body to
create a feeling of mass, or lighter at the front getting darker towards
the back (on the body and the turret both) to create a feeling of speed,
etc. You've obviously put some time into the detailing, but the
strength (brightness/hue) of the red really makes the body look dull by
contrast. (It's the visual push-pull effect of the colors next to each
other.) You could either slightly cool down the red, or strenghten the
hue of the main body and give it some variation to give it some more
visual impact.
>
> Fire Dragon Exarch: Simply because I love this model and it's probably my
> best-painted figure to date (no rude comments from anyone who doesn't like him,
> please).
It's not bad at all - but I do want to see even more of the
detailing. There's a lot of detail in the body armor that could be
brought out. It looks in the picture to be a warm red. You could use
a warm brown (sepia) or warm blue (ultramarine) to do a thin wash
without dulling the red of the armor, or even a dark red. Once the
wash was dry you could then carefully highlight the raised areas of the
armor that you wanted to stand out with your strongest red. (You might
have to under paint the areas of your strongest red with white first -
you don't want to mix white into your red, you simply get pink that
way.)
>
> Fire Warrior: The only one I've been able to upload so far. From the front the
> undersuit and T'au badge aren't very visible, so I went for an angle that shows
> all the colours used in this Tau's uniform. Close-ups of Fire Warriors from
> other angles will follow.
Oddly enough - you may be to close with the camera if you're
having troubles getting good close ups shots. Also, do you completely
build your models first, and then paint them? I usually partially
build my stuff, paint everything so I can get at the all the details,
and then assemble the minis/models and do any final touch-up work as
needed. I personally dislike contorting myself trying to paint chest
details on marines with their arms in the way etc, but I also can't
stand it if I see unpainted areas and details on my minis. So I go with
the afore mentioned method. You can see the results of my <ahem> handy
work on RGMW-genbus as well if you're interested in the results I get.
I like the way my minis look. Are they 'Eavy Metal quality? No. But
I'm not disappointed or unhappy with the way they look on the table
either.
Over all, nice job on your minis and glad to see some pictures.
As always, there's room for improvement in everyone's painting
techniques. I'd suggest more blending in your painting style, but you
certainly don't have any reason to be embarrassed about your painting
abilities. (And if you haven't looked into investing in some good
brushes and brush cleaning soap - do so.)
Myrmidon
P.S. I'd give you a hard time ;) about 'where's the flock?' - but I've
got loads of minis that have textured and painted bases, and still no
flock.
--
"Conan, what is best in life?"
"To paint your miniatures, to see them driven before you on the table,
and to hear the lamentation of the cheese-mongers!"
- Del Webb
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
P Bowles
<Im...@home.com> writes:
>In article <20041213165749...@mb-m29.aol.com>, P Bowles,
>pbo...@aol.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>> It's taken most of the evening with the computer playing up, but my first
>four
>> photos are in a folder on the RGMW Yahoo group:
>>
>> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rgmw-genbus/lst?.dir=/P+Bowles&.src=g
>> r&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/
>
> Excellent. I see you've mastered the fine art of posting pics on
>Yahoo without undue difficult considering your speed at getting the task
>done.
If only. I had six photos to put up, and gave up after four - it took three
attempts to get all of those up, and the link kept cutting out.
In addition you've managed to avoid posting pictures that are
>obnoxiously huge - which could be potential problem as the space Yahoo
>provides is limited.
Well, since the idea is to show off miniatures, which by definition are fairly
small things, a fair bit of cropping is helpful.
If you have any graphics software - it's helpful
>to keep a couple of points in mind. One, most computer monitors only
>have a ratio of 72 or 96 dots per inch - so any excess visual info
>either causes the picture to be displayed extremely large or is simply
>wasted.
I habitually make my "proper" photos 900 x 600 (not sure what units - pixels or
whatever) when saving them as files on the computer. Haven't bothered with
these - they're just to put up on a site and delete from the hard drive.
>> Devilfish: I really think dark green suits this (and Tau in general).
>> Unfortunately I ran into difficulties with the emblem - for some reason
>Tau'n
>> isn't one of the septs represented by the transfers in the Devilfish kit,
>and
>> I'm not buying overpriced FW transfer sheets. My painted Tau'n symbol
>worked
>> rather better on the doors than it did on the front, sadly. Not sure if the
>> Cylonesque red band really works - it looks okay from this angle, but it's
>not
>> great from the front.
>
> I like your Devilfish shot the best. For whatever reason there
>looks to be a good bit of variation in the green of the main body (which
>is visually interesting),
Mostly I credit that to the excellent texturing and detailing of the base
model, and with so many curved surfaces the light hits it at a number of
different angles. I did highlight the edges of the cracks with Catachan Green
(read: khaki), just enough to define them.
and the blue you've used works well with it.
>As for the painted symbols - what size paint brush did you use? I'm
>guessing from the looks that it was one that was really to large for the
>task at hand.
It's what Citadel calls 'fine detail', though a little the worse for wear - the
only non-GW shop around that once sold art supplies went out of business years
ago, and the independent hobby shop only stocks a range of Citadel paints and
no brushes as far as I've found.
>> Falcon: For some reason I couldn't get a clear photo of my Vyper and
>Guardians
>> came out grainy in close-up (I used a lot of heavy drybrushing), so this is
>the
>> representative of the Craftworld Daal-En colour scheme. Infantry will
>follow
>> when I have time.
>
> Looks like a nice job. As for the camera troubles, first up are
>you using a tripod?
No - I possess a large tripod for nature photography (which I almost never use
anyway due to space constraints and the fact that I don't often spend enough
time in one place for it to be helpfu - think it's broken anywayl), but I can't
afford extra equipment that I'd only use to take snaps of models.
If not, consider investing in a mini tripod for
>shooting small items. The mini tripods are inexpensive compared to a
>full size tripod if you have no other need for a full sized tripod.
>Having a pulse (and thus jiggling the camera) is one of the biggest
>impediments to getting a clear shot of a mini. Next up is the question
>- what sort of zoom does it have? If it has a 'macro zoom' specific
>feature, then this is what you'd want to use if possible to shoot your
>mini's pictures with.
If it has I haven't found it yet, and the lens length seems to be fixed
automatically when the camera's turned on - it certainly doesn't have a macro
mode as standard, and its 'close-up' mode is simply an exposure focusing on the
central part of the image and blurring everything else, not very appropriate
for a tank the size of a Falcon (it didn't even work with the Exarch's
firepike, come to that).
> As for the Falcon itself - I'm with John on this one in that the
>accents look odd or otherwise overly stand out against the uniformity of
>the blue-gray of the main body. As a suggestion you might try blending
>to get a slight over all variation in the main body color/value.
>(Everyone seems to freak out at the thought of blending - but it isn't
>difficult at all - particularly not with acrylics.) Lighter around the
>edges and darker (or deeper blue)
That might be something in the photo - as a model it's not blue-grey; light,
but a very definite grey. The Citadel colour is Fortress Grey, if that helps to
identify what it looks like as a model.
towards the center of the body to
>create a feeling of mass, or lighter at the front getting darker towards
>the back (on the body and the turret both) to create a feeling of speed,
>etc. You've obviously put some time into the detailing, but the
>strength (brightness/hue) of the red really makes the body look dull by
>contrast. (It's the visual push-pull effect of the colors next to each
>other.)
As others have said, the Eldar are a race that benefits from contrast, and as
you'll have gathered from this scheme I tend to agree. I'll try and get some
Guardian and Seer pics up today to give a better feel for the way the colours
interact. On the models the grey itself is a fairly bright colour, which I
think helps.
>> Fire Warrior: The only one I've been able to upload so far. From the front
>the
>> undersuit and T'au badge aren't very visible, so I went for an angle that
>shows
>> all the colours used in this Tau's uniform. Close-ups of Fire Warriors from
>> other angles will follow.
>
> Oddly enough - you may be to close with the camera if you're
>having troubles getting good close ups shots. Also, do you completely
>build your models first, and then paint them?
Yes, though with the way Tau weapons are posed across the body this does make
the armour trickier to get at. Bits that can't be seen anyway are a waste of
time to paint, after all. Though with the Devilfish I did paint it while
partially assembled to get at the interior.
I usually partially
>build my stuff, paint everything so I can get at the all the details,
>and then assemble the minis/models and do any final touch-up work as
>needed. I personally dislike contorting myself trying to paint chest
>details on marines with their arms in the way etc, but I also can't
>stand it if I see unpainted areas and details on my minis. So I go with
>the afore mentioned method. You can see the results of my <ahem> handy
>work on RGMW-genbus as well if you're interested in the results I get.
Not sure if that was one of the albums I looked at but I'll have another look
tonight.
>I like the way my minis look. Are they 'Eavy Metal quality? No. But
>I'm not disappointed or unhappy with the way they look on the table
>either.
On the other hand, I paint my models fully-assembled and I'd say the same...
> Over all, nice job on your minis and glad to see some pictures.
>As always, there's room for improvement in everyone's painting
>techniques. I'd suggest more blending in your painting style, but you
>certainly don't have any reason to be embarrassed about your painting
>abilities. (And if you haven't looked into investing in some good
>brushes and brush cleaning soap - do so.)
Thanks. The only blending I've tried is with gems using the GW-patent
technique, but mostly they come out flat with the colours distinctly separate.
>P.S. I'd give you a hard time ;) about 'where's the flock?' - but I've
>got loads of minis that have textured and painted bases, and still no
>flock.
I've done without flock thus far on the basis that if I ever want to repaint
any of my models it would be a nightmare to do when they're flocked (in fact
the only model I have that is flocked - a Warhammer Quest Elf Ranger - is in
line for a repaint when I get to my High Elf army), but I've concluded that
I'll probably never do it for most of them and plastics can't readily be
paint-stripped in any case from what I hear.
PhilIp Bowles
Desert Lurker
> Devilfish: I really think dark green suits this (and Tau in general).
> Unfortunately I ran into difficulties with the emblem - for some reason Tau'n
> isn't one of the septs represented by the transfers in the Devilfish kit, and
> I'm not buying overpriced FW transfer sheets. My painted Tau'n symbol worked
> rather better on the doors than it did on the front, sadly. Not sure if the
> Cylonesque red band really works - it looks okay from this angle, but it's not
> great from the front.
My Favorite one here! I like the red band. make me want to go buy some tau.
> Falcon: For some reason I couldn't get a clear photo of my Vyper and Guardians
> came out grainy in close-up (I used a lot of heavy drybrushing), so this is the
> representative of the Craftworld Daal-En colour scheme. Infantry will follow
> when I have time.
I never would have thought of grey as an Eldar color. This works though.
> Fire Dragon Exarch: Simply because I love this model and it's probably my
> best-painted figure to date (no rude comments from anyone who doesn't like him,
> please).
I like him as well and I certainly could not do any better.
> Fire Warrior: The only one I've been able to upload so far. From the front the
> undersuit and T'au badge aren't very visible, so I went for an angle that shows
> all the colours used in this Tau's uniform. Close-ups of Fire Warriors from
> other angles will follow.
I thnk the grey has a nice contrast for the "soft" stuff which would
have it make sense for there to be little grey on something hard like
the devilfish.
> Philip Bowles
Joe [/lurk] Boster
P Bowles
<ironman...@ridgenet.net> writes:
>> Devilfish: I really think dark green suits this (and Tau in general).
>> Unfortunately I ran into difficulties with the emblem - for some reason
>Tau'n
>> isn't one of the septs represented by the transfers in the Devilfish kit,
>and
>> I'm not buying overpriced FW transfer sheets. My painted Tau'n symbol
>worked
>> rather better on the doors than it did on the front, sadly. Not sure if the
>> Cylonesque red band really works - it looks okay from this angle, but it's
>not
>> great from the front.
>
>My Favorite one here!
This seems to be a unanimous feeling. I never knew the Devilfish design had
that many fans (though it deserves them).
> I like the red band. make me want to go buy some tau.
Maybe GW should be paying me for promoting the army... At least they've
realised that their Tau should be green these days.
>> Falcon: For some reason I couldn't get a clear photo of my Vyper and
>Guardians
>> came out grainy in close-up (I used a lot of heavy drybrushing), so this is
>the
>> representative of the Craftworld Daal-En colour scheme. Infantry will
>follow
>> when I have time.
>I never would have thought of grey as an Eldar color. This works though.
Grey *can* be stylish, you know...
>> Fire Dragon Exarch: Simply because I love this model and it's probably my
>> best-painted figure to date (no rude comments from anyone who doesn't like
>him,
>> please).
>
>I like him as well and I certainly could not do any better.
Thanks.
>> Fire Warrior: The only one I've been able to upload so far. From the front
>the
>> undersuit and T'au badge aren't very visible, so I went for an angle that
>shows
>> all the colours used in this Tau's uniform. Close-ups of Fire Warriors from
>> other angles will follow.
>
>I thnk the grey has a nice contrast for the "soft" stuff which would
>have it make sense for there to be little grey on something hard like
>the devilfish.
>
I've got a couple more Fire Warrior photos up now and a bunch of Eldar photos
(a couple of Guardians, two Farseers, a Vyper, a Fire Dragon, a Warp Spider and
a Spider Exarch).
Note to Myr: I've looked at your photos now - where's the Exocrine from? I like
it. Plus the way you've textured the Tyranids is great. I see you have a
fondness for blue - blue lasguns mde me pause, I must say, though I like the
Cadians carrying them. You might have gathered that I don't make a great deal
of use of metallics, which also seem to be prominent on your models, but I like
your results.
Philip Bowles
Robert Singers
> I never would have thought of grey as an Eldar color. This works though.
Oh the irony.
--
Rob Singers RGMW FAQ Maintainer. See it @ http://www.rgmw.org
Send submissions to submissions at rgmw dot org changing the obvious.
"I present to RGMW....the real life model for StrongBad." (c) Inc 2003
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Myrmidon
> <ironman...@ridgenet.net> writes:
>
> Note to Myr: I've looked at your photos now - where's the Exocrine from?
It's one of the old 'Armorcast' resin big bugs that they did.
(www.armorcast.com) They're the folks who originally did the first 40K
scale Titans, etc. I've got two of each of their Nid critters, as well
as an old Epicast 'Dactlyse' (spelling?) - the big spore lobbing
critter. I've got the Dactlyse painted at long last - I'll have to get
a shot of up on Gen Bus soon.
> I like
> it. Plus the way you've textured the Tyranids is great.
Again, they're not golden deamon quality, but I still think they
look kick-ass when there's a whole swarm of them on my table top along
with all the terrain trimmings.
> I see you have a
> fondness for blue - blue lasguns mde me pause, I must say, though I like the
> Cadians carrying them. You might have gathered that I don't make a great deal
> of use of metallics, which also seem to be prominent on your models, but I like
> your results.
Guilty as charged on both counts. I really like blue and I'm a
veritable 'Tamiya Gun Metal Gray' (X-10) addict when it comes to
achieving a metallic look without the 'chrome' effect that GW's 'chain
mail' paint has to my eye. I use GW's paint to highlight the Tamiya.
When I want a burnt metal look, I've had great success with the local
plaid/apple barrel craft acrylic metallics. I went with blue lasguns as
A, I like blue, and B - I thought about green, but I was worried that
it'd blend in with my green table top. (IG are wuss enough as it is
without having them show up without their flashlights on top of
everything else.)
I do have one request - if it's ok with you I'd like to have a quick go
at resizing your pics so that they're a bit more space efficient on the
Yahoo group. Just a quick example... The third Tau firewarrior shot
you posted measures in at 1048 pixels by 836 pixels for a total file
size of 377 kb. The print size would be 37cm x 29.5cm at 72 dpi (dots
per inch) - which is a good bit larger than it needs to be. By tweaking
it with photoshop - I can change the size to 25.5 cm x 20 cm and 72 dpi
and the file size reduces to 70 kb (approx 1/5th the size) without
killing your image quality.
If you don't object to my doing that to save space on the yahoo group
site (we're at 90% capacity in our photo section now) - I can tweak the
images and either email them to you so you can replace the current files
with the smaller ones - or I can replace them myself (again as long as
I'm not stepping on any toes as it were.) The only draw back to my
replacing the files would be that you may not be able to delete them
yourself if you want to at some point later. I help admin the group so
I've got access, but I'm thinking that if I replace the images myself,
you won't have access to them after I re-post them.
*** Side note - It's really really nice to have musically talented kids.
My daughter is playing classical violin as I type this up, and she's
really good.
Side note #2 - No, I'm *NOT* selling her to any of you lot! ***
If you don't object - resizing would go a long way to saving a
good bit of space on the yahoo site. Please let me know.
Thanks,
Myrmidon
--
#1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.
- Eric Noland
# 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
raise a Warhammer army
- Roy Cox
http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/
****
P Bowles
jonath...@hotmail.com writes:
>I have a certain 'advantage' when it comes to detail work in that I'm
>practically blind without contact lenses or glasses. Wearing them I can
>see reasonably, but when I take them out my focal length is so short
>that I can only see as far as the end of my nose. So I hold the figure
>up very close and get a great magnified view for painting detail. The
>only problem is I then can't see as far as my painting tray or where I
>put my glasses... You might want to get a desk-mounted magnifying glass
>type thing or something like that if its difficult to see exactly where
>your brush is going.
>Anyway - black lining. Give it a try and post the results.
>
Thanks for the suggestion - that was actually the technique I tried for the
first time with my Tau (which have a black basecoat), though I know a lot of
the cracks turned green during painting. I do have a squad of Guardian Storms
that needs painting and Eldar mesh armour would be perfect for this technique,
but they have a white basecoat so I'll need to try the tracing method. In fact
I used that method with the Falcon and I think the Vyper.
As for posting the results, what with the extra Eldar and the Wood Elves I've
put up today I have no more space in the folder. :-(
Philip Bowles
P Bowles
<Im...@home.com> writes:
>In article <20041214160014...@mb-m17.aol.com>, P Bowles,
>pbo...@aol.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>> In article <cpmjav$1lsi$1...@delphi.ridgenet.net>, Desert Lurker
>> <ironman...@ridgenet.net> writes:
>>
><much snippage...>
>
>> Note to Myr: I've looked at your photos now - where's the Exocrine from?
>
> It's one of the old 'Armorcast' resin big bugs that they did.
>(www.armorcast.com) They're the folks who originally did the first 40K
>scale Titans, etc.
I thought it must be, but the only other Armourcast 40k-scale things I've seen
have looked underdetailed and frankly hideous (I'm thinking Warhound Titan
particularly), and this looks a lot better. It's a little truncated lengthwise
compared with the Epic version, but otherwise it's faithful to it.
I've got two of each of their Nid critters, as well
>as an old Epicast 'Dactlyse' (spelling?)
Dactylis. I've got a fair few unpainted Epic Dactylis, Haruspex and Trygons and
a few basecoated Exocrines.
>> I see you have a
>> fondness for blue - blue lasguns mde me pause, I must say, though I like
>the
>> Cadians carrying them. You might have gathered that I don't make a great
>deal
>> of use of metallics, which also seem to be prominent on your models, but I
>like
>> your results.
>
> Guilty as charged on both counts. I really like blue and I'm a
>veritable 'Tamiya Gun Metal Gray' (X-10) addict when it comes to
>achieving a metallic look without the 'chrome' effect that GW's 'chain
>mail' paint has to my eye. I use GW's paint to highlight the Tamiya.
*nods* GW paints are very good for highlighting if you want, say, a heavy
drybrush - with well-textured models like the Dryad I posted or BFG Imperial
ships the results can be great, due to the paint's thickness.
>When I want a burnt metal look, I've had great success with the local
>plaid/apple barrel craft acrylic metallics. I went with blue lasguns as
>A, I like blue, and B - I thought about green, but I was worried that
>it'd blend in with my green table top. (IG are wuss enough as it is
>without having them show up without their flashlights on top of
>everything else.)
Well, they are Guard - camouflage might help...
"Don't shoot! See, I've got no weapon - I'm completely defenceless!"
"You've got a lasgun painted green. I can see it."
"Don't shoot! I've got a lasgun - I'm completely defenceless!"
>I do have one request - if it's ok with you I'd like to have a quick go
>at resizing your pics so that they're a bit more space efficient on the
>Yahoo group. Just a quick example... The third Tau firewarrior shot
>you posted measures in at 1048 pixels by 836 pixels for a total file
>size of 377 kb. The print size would be 37cm x 29.5cm at 72 dpi (dots
>per inch) - which is a good bit larger than it needs to be. By tweaking
>it with photoshop - I can change the size to 25.5 cm x 20 cm and 72 dpi
>and the file size reduces to 70 kb (approx 1/5th the size) without
>killing your image quality.
>
>If you don't object to my doing that to save space on the yahoo group
>site (we're at 90% capacity in our photo section now)
Oops. Sorry, I hadn't realised all the folders in the group shared the same
capacity - I assumed new folders came with their own space allowance (shows how
much I know about the way computers work, doesn't it?) I don't mean to hog
photo space - by all means shrink the files if possible.
*** Side note - It's really really nice to have musically talented kids.
>My daughter is playing classical violin as I type this up, and she's
>really good.
It's nice to have an instrument. :-( I've been told I'm not without musical
talent, but I gave up piano as a child (bad mistake) and I haven't yet got
round to digging out the old guitar we have and restringing it (that's the plan
for this weekend).
> If you don't object - resizing would go a long way to saving a
>good bit of space on the yahoo site. Please let me know.
Go ahead if it'll save space.
Philip Bowles
Myrmidon
jonath...@hotmail.com, jonath...@hotmail.com Varfed out the
following in Timo speak...
> > Fire Dragon Exarch: Simply because I love this model and it's
> probably my
> > best-painted figure to date (no rude comments from anyone who doesn't
> like him,
> > please).
> >
>
> enormous difference to how your models look and its not a totally
> terrifying technique to master.
>
> The normal method is simply to undercoat black and try and leave gaps
> as you fill in the colour. There are two problems with this. Firstly if
> you're painting something in red like your Fire Dragon Exarch then you
> don't want to be using a black base-coat. Secondly even with a very
> steady hand you're probably going to have some slips and go over the
> gaps you're trying to leave.
>
> Try thinning some black paint with a tiny bit of water. Enough to help
> it run smoothly but not thin enough to make it into a wash and try and
> trace in some lines - practice on a figure that you don't care much
> about. Its easiest to start on areas where the model helps you - eg.
> between a tunic and legs where there will be a ridge of material or
> something like that. Its worth a bit of practice as I think it makes
> the single biggest difference to painting quality - highlighting and
> washes and so on are great but demarkating colour should come first.
>
> I have a certain 'advantage' when it comes to detail work in that I'm
> practically blind without contact lenses or glasses. Wearing them I can
> see reasonably, but when I take them out my focal length is so short
> that I can only see as far as the end of my nose. So I hold the figure
> up very close and get a great magnified view for painting detail. The
> only problem is I then can't see as far as my painting tray or where I
> put my glasses... You might want to get a desk-mounted magnifying glass
> type thing or something like that if its difficult to see exactly where
> your brush is going.
> Anyway - black lining. Give it a try and post the results.
>
graphics supply or office supply store - look for technical pens. They
come in a variety of sizes including some with tiny tips. I use Pigma
Micron - with the 005 tip (0.2mm) with Archival ink (water and fade
resistant). (They're made by Sakura Color products - Japan.) I haven't
had any real problems writing with them on acrylic and use them for
precision black lining as well as for writing on the tiny scrolls or
just plain writing on Marine armor, etc. And I personally find it a
hell of a lot easier and quicker to use the technical pens than to try
and use tiny brushes where it's all to easy for me to make a wrong move
and have to clean up a mistake. In addition I get to choose exactly
what areas I want to emphasize using the pen, rather than the 'shotgun'
approach of a wash.
Hope that helps,
Myrmidon
> In article <MPG.1c294412...@news-server.woh.rr.com>, Myrmidon
> <Im...@home.com> writes:
>
> >In article <20041214160014...@mb-m17.aol.com>, P Bowles,
> >pbo...@aol.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> >> In article <cpmjav$1lsi$1...@delphi.ridgenet.net>, Desert Lurker
> >> <ironman...@ridgenet.net> writes:
> >>
> ><much snippage...>
> >
> >> Note to Myr: I've looked at your photos now - where's the Exocrine from?
> >
> > It's one of the old 'Armorcast' resin big bugs that they did.
> >(www.armorcast.com) They're the folks who originally did the first 40K
> >scale Titans, etc.
>
> I thought it must be, but the only other Armourcast 40k-scale things I've seen
> have looked underdetailed and frankly hideous (I'm thinking Warhound Titan
> particularly), and this looks a lot better. It's a little truncated lengthwise
> compared with the Epic version, but otherwise it's faithful to it.
Yeah, they're not 100% faithful to the original epic minis, but I
think they got as close as they reasonably could - likely having nothing
but sketches and epic minis to work from like as not. The quality of
the AC resin Nids is far superior to the Epicast Nid. The Dactylis
model has a ton of air bubbles and imperfections in it.
>
> I've got two of each of their Nid critters, as well
> >as an old Epicast 'Dactlyse' (spelling?)
>
> Dactylis. I've got a fair few unpainted Epic Dactylis, Haruspex and Trygons and
> a few basecoated Exocrines.
Yeah, I've got a good sized Epic Nid hoard if I ever get to
painting it. I'm thinking of trying my hand at doing a 40K scale Tyrgon
too one of these light years.
>
<snippage>
>
> >When I want a burnt metal look, I've had great success with the local
> >plaid/apple barrel craft acrylic metallics. I went with blue lasguns as
> >A, I like blue, and B - I thought about green, but I was worried that
> >it'd blend in with my green table top. (IG are wuss enough as it is
> >without having them show up without their flashlights on top of
> >everything else.)
>
> Well, they are Guard - camouflage might help...
>
> "Don't shoot! See, I've got no weapon - I'm completely defenceless!"
> "You've got a lasgun painted green. I can see it."
> "Don't shoot! I've got a lasgun - I'm completely defenceless!"
>
That's just hilarious! :) I just figure that since they're
'frag-meat' as Marteen would put it, there's no point in camo as it only
delays the inevitable.
> >I do have one request - if it's ok with you I'd like to have a quick go
> >at resizing your pics so that they're a bit more space efficient on the
> >Yahoo group.
>
> Oops. Sorry, I hadn't realised all the folders in the group shared the same
> capacity - I assumed new folders came with their own space allowance (shows how
> much I know about the way computers work, doesn't it?) I don't mean to hog
> photo space - by all means shrink the files if possible.
Well, I've resized and reposted the images and they've gone from
slightly under 8 megs in overall file size to just over 1 meg. (Fear my
733t photoshop skillz!) So now we're back down to 68% used space rather
than 90%. To my eye the images still work just fine to show off the
details and load a bit quicker as well. Let me know if you want any of
the images done larger for any reason and I'll gladly redo them as soon
as possible.
Desert Lurker
> Out from under a rock popped Desert Lurker and said
>
>
>>I never would have thought of grey as an Eldar color. This works though.
>
>
> Oh the irony.
>
Joe
P Bowles
>slightly under 8 megs in overall file size to just over 1 meg. (Fear my
>733t photoshop skillz!) So now we're back down to 68% used space rather
>than 90%. To my eye the images still work just fine to show off the
>details and load a bit quicker as well. Let me know if you want any of
>the images done larger for any reason and I'll gladly redo them as soon
>as possible.
Thanks Myr, they look good. I notice that a couple of them look a little
sharper too (the detail is more obvious on Rhyleth's body, in particular) -
thanks for that, too.
Philip Bowles
jonath...@hotmail.com
probably my
> best-painted figure to date (no rude comments from anyone who doesn't
like him,
> please).
>
If I can be so bold as to make a suggestion: Black-lining would make an
Robert Singers
>>>I never would have thought of grey as an Eldar color. This works though.
>>
>> Oh the irony.
>>
> And this is ironic why? Pardon my ignorance.
A certain Mr Hwang who plays Eldar and paints in several thousand different
shades of grey (only).
Desert Lurker
> Out from under a rock popped Desert Lurker and said
>
>
>>>>I never would have thought of grey as an Eldar color. This works though.
>>>
>>>Oh the irony.
>>>
>>
>>And this is ironic why? Pardon my ignorance.
>
>
> A certain Mr Hwang who plays Eldar and paints in several thousand different
> shades of grey (only).
>
Joe
Robert Singers
>> A certain Mr Hwang who plays Eldar and paints in several thousand
>> different shades of grey (only).
>>
> Ah. I see... is that like a thousand points of light?
No not at all. Reflected light is Hwang's enemy.
John Hwang
>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) writes:
>>>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rgmw-genbus/
>>
>>>Devilfish:
>>
>>Dark green is a great base color for Tau. I'd have gone with more subdued
>>insignia,
>
>That's just my thick brush-strokes with the white paint...
Subdued insignia is a lower contrast, lower saturation scheme that is more
"military". Compare with WW2 US aircraft insignia vs modern grey on grey
insignia. In your case, I'd have used grey for white, and considered dark grey
for black.
>> and a different accent color, either a black, white, a somewhat
>>darker grey, or a more saturated blue.
>
>It's true that the blue-grey doesn't work as well on the flat surfaces of
>this vehicle as it does on the textured Fire Warrior undersuit, but I've
>minimised its use on the tank, just so that the whole thing isn't
>completely green.
There are "tricks" for dealing with this, such as center panel highlighting /
shading to unflatten models. Also, a strong blacklining approach will work as
well.
>>> Not sure if theCylonesque red band
>>>really works
>>
>>Try a bright yellow.
>
>Um. Actually, I was thinking of turning it black and subduing it - the red
>just seems out of place as a splash of colour there, and so would yellow.
Red is too harsh of a contrast against green, hence my suggestion for a bright
yellow.
>>>Falcon:
>>
>>>representative of the Craftworld Daal-En
>>
>>OK, tho I'm not entirely sure about the accents.
>
>Red, black and gold are all colours that provide a good contrast. I'll try to
>get some infantry photos showing the scheme up tonight.
Yup, not bad.
>>>Fire Dragon Exarch:
>>
>>OK, tho why the green accent against red?
>
>Because it seemed to work... I based this to some extent on GW's colour
>scheme for this model, which I liked but which is anything was a little
>heavier on the green.
I'd have gone tin bitz / bronze for the scaly bits on a red model, keeping the
green for the undercoat tinting.
>>>Fire Warrior:
>>
>>Like Devilfish, this looks good.
>
>And unlike the Eldar, you mean? :-)
More that your Eldar aren't as I'd have painted them. I'm not quite happy with
the particular accents. I think I'd have gone with white on your light grey.
>Thanks anyway.
>
>> A warm brown contrast for the soft suit would
>>have been good.
>
>I've heard you tend to favour darker shades.
I prefer lower saturation colors for anything large, saving bright colors for
accents only.
>I specifically didn't want a particularly dark undersuit
As long as it's not black, it's worth a try. Dark grey, blue, or brown should
look a bit better and clearer as to what the models are.
> (and I have more than enough green-and-brown models
>in my Wood Elves).
Nevertheless...
>>IMO, you should really look into "magic dip". Your painting style is
>>perfect for finishing with magic dip (or Tamiya Smoke).
>
>What's magic dip?
Thin clear acrylic with a bit of shadow pigment in it. It goes on super
smooth, giving you shading and blacklining effects for very little effort. As
your paint style is very flat, a magic dip finish would give your models a lot
more depth and definition.
>Thanks for the comments.
Glad to help!
John Hwang
>jonath...@hotmail.com writes:
>>Anyway - black lining. Give it a try and post the results.
>
>Thanks for the suggestion - that was actually the technique
>I tried for the first time with my Tau (which have a black
>basecoat), though I know a lot of the cracks turned green
>during painting.
The GW way of blacklining doesn't work. If you want to blackline, you need a
smallish brush with an excellent point. Use a thinned (alcohol and detergent)
black ink. Then let the seam draw the black ink in via capillary action.
Don't forget to give a super thin highlight along the seam to emphasize the
contrast.
John Hwang
Yahoo shows 400x300, so if you can crop or scale to that size, that would be
about perfect. 800x600 is 4x the pixels.
>and the blue you've used works well with it.
>>As for the painted symbols - what size paint brush did you
>> use? I'm guessing from the looks that it was one that was
>>really to large for the task at hand.
>
>It's what Citadel calls 'fine detail',
Oh, dear. Those brushes are terrible, and terribly overpriced. :(
Also, you really need to start thinning your paint. I recommend keeping a
small pot of 50% isopropyl alcohol - 50% distilled water, with a few drops of
detergent mixed in to break the surface tension.
>the only non-GW shop around that once sold art supplies
>went out of business years ago, and the independent hobby
>shop only stocks a range of Citadel paints and
>no brushes as far as I've found.
Mail order some Windsor & Newton sable brushes. You'll be much happier.
>Thanks. The only blending I've tried is with gems using the
> GW-patent technique, but mostly they come out flat with
>the colours distinctly separate.
Thinner paint will help here immensely!
P Bowles
johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) writes:
>Also, you really need to start thinning your paint. I recommend keeping a
>small pot of 50% isopropyl alcohol - 50% distilled water, with a few drops of
>detergent mixed in to break the surface tension.
>
>>the only non-GW shop around that once sold art supplies
>>went out of business years ago, and the independent hobby
>>shop only stocks a range of Citadel paints and
>>no brushes as far as I've found.
>
>Mail order some Windsor & Newton sable brushes. You'll be much happier.
Not really worth it at this stage - I'll be away from my models for a couple of
years come February anyway, and with Christmas on the way mail order isn't
going to be hugely reliable for the near future. Still, I'd like to get as many
of my models painted as possible before I leave so I'll make a note of the name
- I'll also hunt around in the local shop to see if I can find any brushes
after all, though I don't expect to.
Philip Bowles
P Bowles
johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) writes:
>pbo...@aol.com (P Bowles) wrote:
>>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) writes:
>
>>>>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rgmw-genbus/
>>>
>>>>Devilfish:
>>>
>>>Dark green is a great base color for Tau. I'd have gone with more subdued
>>>insignia,
>>
>>That's just my thick brush-strokes with the white paint...
>
>Subdued insignia is a lower contrast, lower saturation scheme that is more
>"military". Compare with WW2 US aircraft insignia vs modern grey on grey
>insignia. In your case, I'd have used grey for white, and considered dark
>grey
>for black.
Oh, I see. However, that wouldn't have meshed with the Fire Warriors, and I
found the contrast on the relatively small Tau emblems worked extremely well on
them - before the addition of some colour in the white and red detailing they
looked rather sterile, as 'military' schemes can do.
>>> and a different accent color, either a black, white, a somewhat
>>>darker grey, or a more saturated blue.
>>
>>It's true that the blue-grey doesn't work as well on the flat surfaces of
>>this vehicle as it does on the textured Fire Warrior undersuit, but I've
>>minimised its use on the tank, just so that the whole thing isn't
>>completely green.
>
>There are "tricks" for dealing with this, such as center panel highlighting /
>shading to unflatten models. Also, a strong blacklining approach will work
>as
>well.
My latest models are a Gun Drone squadron (completed) and an Ethereal, and I've
used blacklining on both - compared with the unblacklined Drones on the
Devilfish, the former work very well. I've tried blending on the robes and face
of the Ethereal and I've been impressed with those results too (sadly I've run
out of ivory paint for the robes so he won't be finished until tomorrow at the
earliest). My next project (finishing the Tau proper) will be a second Fire
Warrior squad, and I'll apply the techniques there as well.
>>>>Falcon:
>>>
>>>>representative of the Craftworld Daal-En
>>>
>>>OK, tho I'm not entirely sure about the accents.
>>
>>Red, black and gold are all colours that provide a good contrast. I'll try
>to
>>get some infantry photos showing the scheme up tonight.
>
>Yup, not bad.
Thanks. After the Tau and Kroot, finishing the Eldar is next on my list of
things to do - I'll try to get some pictures of Warlocks and Storm Guardians up
when I'm done.
>>>>Fire Dragon Exarch:
>>>
>>>OK, tho why the green accent against red?
>>
>>Because it seemed to work... I based this to some extent on GW's colour
>>scheme for this model, which I liked but which is anything was a little
>>heavier on the green.
>
>I'd have gone tin bitz / bronze for the scaly bits on a red model, keeping
>the
>green for the undercoat tinting.
With his weapon, gem housings and crest, this model already uses more metallics
than I favour as a general rule. Another yellowish metallic on the armour
wouldn't have worked as well, I feel.
>>>>Fire Warrior:
>>>
>>>Like Devilfish, this looks good.
>>
>>And unlike the Eldar, you mean? :-)
>
>More that your Eldar aren't as I'd have painted them. I'm not quite happy
>with
>the particular accents. I think I'd have gone with white on your light grey.
White and grey isn't much of a contrast, is it? As I said, I think the Eldar
benefit from their contrasts - another thing I'll try to get up is a photo of
an Eldar unit rather than just individuals, to give a feel of how they look
together.
>>I specifically didn't want a particularly dark undersuit
>
>As long as it's not black, it's worth a try. Dark grey, blue, or brown
>should
>look a bit better and clearer as to what the models are.
>
>> (and I have more than enough green-and-brown models
>>in my Wood Elves).
>
>Nevertheless...
I suppose I'm one of those painters who prefers to use a different scheme for
every army - black and green I didn't want in case I were to start a Marine
(Salamanders) army, brown and green was too Welfy, grey and green would make
them look too much like GW Cadians. Blue would just have been too much of a
contrast. The blue-grey was as a much a compromise as anything - it actually
worked better than I'd expected.
>>>IMO, you should really look into "magic dip". Your painting style is
>>>perfect for finishing with magic dip (or Tamiya Smoke).
>>
>>What's magic dip?
>
>Thin clear acrylic with a bit of shadow pigment in it. It goes on super
>smooth, giving you shading and blacklining effects for very little effort.
Sounds like thinned down black ink... In fact, I use something similar when
shading flesh - using a flesh wash thinned to the point where it doesn't
noticeably change the colour but does give definition to it.
Philip Bowles
Desert Lurker
<snip>
>
> Subdued insignia is a lower contrast, lower saturation scheme that is more
> "military". Compare with WW2 US aircraft insignia vs modern grey on grey
> insignia. In your case, I'd have used grey for white, and considered dark grey
> for black.
And to think all this time I'd been thinking about color schemes from my
Hypothetical IG army and I've beem livng next to the answer (NAVAIR
China Lake). Or I could use it for Nids.
<snip>
> More that your Eldar aren't as I'd have painted them. I'm not quite happy with
> the particular accents. I think I'd have gone with white on your light grey.
>
>
>>Thanks anyway.
>>
>>
>>> A warm brown contrast for the soft suit would
>>>have been good.
>>
>>I've heard you tend to favour darker shades.
>
>
> I prefer lower saturation colors for anything large, saving bright colors for
> accents only.
>
How very un 40K of you. How can you be properly gothic without bright
colors? Everone knows that alien/power armour is bightly colored.
magic dip (or Tamiya Smoke).
>>
>>What's magic dip?
>
>
> Thin clear acrylic with a bit of shadow pigment in it. It goes on super
> smooth, giving you shading and blacklining effects for very little effort. As
> your paint style is very flat, a magic dip finish would give your models a lot
> more depth and definition.
>
>
>>Thanks for the comments.
>
>
> Glad to help!
And so I can go and search "magic dip" and find this stuff? Is it
available through hobby (models,traiins,ect) or Art suppy stores. Thank
you for the info!
John Hwang
>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) writes:
>
>>Also, you really need to start thinning your paint. I recommend keeping a
>>small pot of 50% isopropyl alcohol - 50% distilled water, with a few drops
>>of detergent mixed in to break the surface tension.
>>
>>>the only non-GW shop around that once sold art supplies
>>>went out of business years ago, and the independent hobby
>>>shop only stocks a range of Citadel paints and
>>>no brushes as far as I've found.
>>
>>Mail order some Windsor & Newton sable brushes. You'll be much happier.
>
>Not really worth it at this stage
Well, nevertheless, there's something to be said for tools that work *for* you,
rather than against you. I think that the value of good brushes for miniatures
painting is hard to underestimate. Paint can be worked around, but brushes
cannot.
John Hwang
>>Subdued insignia is a lower contrast, lower saturation scheme that is more
>>"military". Compare with WW2 US aircraft insignia vs modern grey
>>on grey insignia. In your case, I'd have used grey for white, and
>>considered dark grey for black.
>
>Oh, I see. However, that wouldn't have meshed with the Fire Warriors,
Sure it would... It just means that you're going for a different effect. :)
>and I found the contrast on the relatively small Tau emblems worked
>extremely well on them - before the addition of some colour in the
>white and red detailing they looked rather sterile, as 'military'
>schemes can do.
And what's wrong with that? IMO, it seems most appropriate for IG and Tau
forces.
>>There are "tricks" for dealing with this, such as center panel highlighting
>>/ shading to unflatten models. Also, a strong blacklining approach will
>>work as well.
>
>My latest models are a Gun Drone squadron (completed) and an
>Ethereal, and I've used blacklining on both - compared with the
>unblacklined Drones on the Devilfish, the former work very well.
See? :)
>I've tried blending on the robes and face of the Ethereal and I've
>been impressed with those results too (sadly I've run out of ivory
>paint for the robes so he won't be finished until tomorrow at the
>earliest). My next project (finishing the Tau proper) will be a
>second Fire Warrior squad, and I'll apply the techniques there
>as well.
Sounds good!
>Thanks. After the Tau and Kroot, finishing the Eldar is next on my list of
>things to do - I'll try to get some pictures of Warlocks and Storm
>Guardians up when I'm done.
OK. I'll watch for them.
>>I'd have gone tin bitz / bronze for the scaly bits on a red model, keeping
>>the green for the undercoat tinting.
>
>With his weapon, gem housings and crest, this model already uses more
>metallics than I favour as a general rule. Another yellowish metallic
>on the armour wouldn't have worked as well, I feel.
You don't have to go bright metallic, so a darker metal works OK.
>>More that your Eldar aren't as I'd have painted them. I'm not quite
>>happy with the particular accents. I think I'd have gone with white
>>on your light grey.
>
>White and grey isn't much of a contrast, is it?
It *can* be. White is a pure color, and will contrast well even against a
fairly light grey. Used small, it's also good for accents. It works just fine
for my SM Sergeants and Veterans, and I'll be painting both of my remaining
Dread Sarcophagi in white as well. For comparison, I've uploaded a pic of my
SM Dread to RGMW GenBus.
>I suppose I'm one of those painters who prefers to use a different scheme for
>every army - black and green I didn't want in case I were to start a Marine
>(Salamanders) army,
Salamanders would be a saturated green with black. Very different coloring,
IMO.
> brown and green was too Welfy,
Which brown and green are you using? Probably not DA green and dark brown.
>grey and green would make them look too much like GW Cadians.
*Dark* grey would be different.
>Blue would just have been too much of a contrast.
*Dark* blue would have been fine.
>The blue-grey was as a much a compromise as anything - it actually
>worked better than I'd expected.
>
>>>>IMO, you should really look into "magic dip". Your painting style is
>>>>perfect for finishing with magic dip (or Tamiya Smoke).
>>>
>>>What's magic dip?
>>
>>Thin clear acrylic with a bit of shadow pigment in it. It goes on super
>>smooth, giving you shading and blacklining effects for very little effort.
>
>Sounds like thinned down black ink... In fact, I use something similar when
>shading flesh - using a flesh wash thinned to the point where it doesn't
>noticeably change the colour but does give definition to it.
This is different. Future is a clear acrylic base, not a water or alcohol
base. It dries very differently. Search Google, and you'll see what I mean.
P Bowles
johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) writes:
>pbo...@aol.com (P Bowles) wrote:
>>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) writes:
>
>>and I found the contrast on the relatively small Tau emblems worked
>>extremely well on them - before the addition of some colour in the
>>white and red detailing they looked rather sterile, as 'military'
>>schemes can do.
>
>And what's wrong with that? IMO, it seems most appropriate for IG and Tau
>forces.
Across an army it ends up being bland - I don't know about you, but seeing a
modern army does not make me think "ooh, what a great idea for a paintscheme".
I wanted something that looked appropriately militaristic, formal and
regimented without being dull, and that requires some contrast.
>>I've tried blending on the robes and face of the Ethereal and I've
>>been impressed with those results too (sadly I've run out of ivory
>>paint for the robes so he won't be finished until tomorrow at the
>>earliest). My next project (finishing the Tau proper) will be a
>>second Fire Warrior squad, and I'll apply the techniques there
>>as well.
>
>Sounds good!
I'll try and get more photos up - when I've finished the Ethereal I'll try to
get decent pictures of him, the drones and maybe some more Eldar.
>>>I'd have gone tin bitz / bronze for the scaly bits on a red model, keeping
>>>the green for the undercoat tinting.
>>
>>With his weapon, gem housings and crest, this model already uses more
>>metallics than I favour as a general rule. Another yellowish metallic
>>on the armour wouldn't have worked as well, I feel.
>
>You don't have to go bright metallic, so a darker metal works OK.
Dark metallics don't bring much contrast to the dark red, though.
>>>More that your Eldar aren't as I'd have painted them. I'm not quite
>>>happy with the particular accents. I think I'd have gone with white
>>>on your light grey.
>>
>>White and grey isn't much of a contrast, is it?
>
>It *can* be. White is a pure color, and will contrast well even against a
>fairly light grey. Used small, it's also good for accents. It works just
>fine
>for my SM Sergeants and Veterans, and I'll be painting both of my remaining
>Dread Sarcophagi in white as well. For comparison, I've uploaded a pic of my
>SM Dread to RGMW GenBus.
I'd say it's the use of both white and black that contrasts here, not the white
and the grey. Though I admit that a Guardian scheme with white helmets, black
faceplates and light grey armour would achieve much the same effect (though
would look a bit too much like grey Dire Avemgers).
>>I suppose I'm one of those painters who prefers to use a different scheme
>for
>>every army - black and green I didn't want in case I were to start a Marine
>>(Salamanders) army,
>
>Salamanders would be a saturated green with black. Very different coloring,
>IMO.
Brighter, but still essentially the same colours.
>> brown and green was too Welfy,
>
>Which brown and green are you using? Probably not DA green and dark brown.
Emerald/Snot Green (the next shade in the Citadel scheme) and dark brown - my
Waywatchers are up on Yahoo giving an example.
>>grey and green would make them look too much like GW Cadians.
>
>*Dark* grey would be different.
Dark grey on dark green would make the whole model look as though it wasn't
quite finished, as though just the base coat had been done.
>>Blue would just have been too much of a contrast.
>
>*Dark* blue would have been fine.
Not convinced dark blue and green work either as contrasting colours or
complementary ones.
Philip Bowles
John Hwang
>>>and I found the contrast on the relatively small Tau emblems worked
>>>extremely well on them - before the addition of some colour in the
>>>white and red detailing they looked rather sterile, as 'military'
>>>schemes can do.
>>
>>And what's wrong with that? IMO, it seems most appropriate
>>for IG and Tau forces.
>
>Across an army it ends up being bland - I don't know about you,
>but seeing a modern army does not make me think "ooh, what
>a great idea for a paintscheme".
Interestingly, I have the opposite reaction when I see troops in actual combat
gear. I want something that is unmistakably based on regular modern forces.
>I wanted something that looked appropriately militaristic, formal and
>regimented without being dull, and that requires some contrast.
Napoleonics?
>>You don't have to go bright metallic, so a darker metal works OK.
>
>Dark metallics don't bring much contrast to the dark red, though.
You don't need harsh black/white, red/green contrasts any more. This is 40k4 /
WFB6. We've moved past month one of art school and the color wheel.
>>It *can* be. White is a pure color, and will contrast well even
>>against a fairly light grey. Used small, it's also good for accents.
>>It works just fine for my SM Sergeants and Veterans, and
>> I'll be painting both of my remaining Dread Sarcophagi in white
>> as well. For comparison, I've uploaded a pic of my
>>SM Dread to RGMW GenBus.
>
>I'd say it's the use of both white and black that contrasts here, not the
>white and the grey.
OK, tho when I get a chance, I'll post a pic of the Termies or Sergeants and
you'll see the pure white helmets against the grey.
>Though I admit that a Guardian scheme with white helmets, black
>faceplates and light grey armour would achieve much the same effect
>(though would look a bit too much like grey Dire Avemgers).
The faceplates wouldn't need to be black, tho black squad markings wouldn't
hurt.
>>Salamanders would be a saturated green with black. Very different
>> coloring, IMO.
>
>Brighter, but still essentially the same colours.
>
>>> brown and green was too Welfy,
>>
>>Which brown and green are you using? Probably not DA green and dark
>> brown.
>
>Emerald/Snot Green (the next shade in the Citadel scheme) and dark
>brown - my Waywatchers are up on Yahoo giving an example.
So they would be different.
>>>grey and green would make them look too much like GW Cadians.
>>
>>*Dark* grey would be different.
>
>Dark grey on dark green would make the whole model look as though it
>wasn't quite finished, as though just the base coat had been done.
With shading / highlighting, it'll look done.
>>>Blue would just have been too much of a contrast.
>>
>>*Dark* blue would have been fine.
>
>Not convinced dark blue and green work either as contrasting colours or
>complementary ones.
The dark blue is a stand-in for black, with highlighting and shading.