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[Painting] Dirt on White Robes

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Jim Pruitt

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Oct 31, 2000, 1:58:59 AM10/31/00
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I'm very much a beginner at painting and I'm having trouble getting dirty
white robes to come out right. The look i'm going for is white robes
(Sisters of Sigmar, High Elves, etc) that are mud splattered from tromping
on the battlefield.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Jim Pruitt

Kaos Lord

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Oct 31, 2000, 2:40:20 AM10/31/00
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Jim Pruitt <jimr...@home.com> wrote in message
news:T4uL5.72989$65.7...@news1.rdc1.fl.home.com...

> I'm very much a beginner at painting and I'm having trouble getting dirty
> white robes to come out right. The look i'm going for is white robes
> (Sisters of Sigmar, High Elves, etc) that are mud splattered from tromping
> on the battlefield.
>
Believe it or not the best way is to use mud. let me explain. Take some dirt
and place it in a screen hold it over the model and slowly pour water in to
it, the dirty water will drip over the model giving the desired effect, then
once it is dry just paint out the parts you don't want...

Another option is to put the figures in a shallow pan and let rain water
from the roof fill the pan, let the water evaporate. The effect is pretty
awesome. If you want something even quicker then mix some water with a brown
ink, doesn't look as good but it works!

--
Kaos
a ROGUE trader
fuming a bit over the idea that game company doesn't want to make official
rules for it's game!

Richard Lobinske

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Oct 31, 2000, 6:17:08 AM10/31/00
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>The look i'm going for is white robes
>(Sisters of Sigmar, High Elves, etc) that are mud splattered from tromping
>on the battlefield.

Base color with an off-white or pale gray (such as camoflague gray), then use a
slightly dirty tone to shade (add a bit of brown to darken the base color) and
lighter tone for the highlight (normally I use white, but for the dirty
appearence, that would be too intense). Shade and highlight using your
prefrerred method.

For weathering, you can get a dusty appearence by drybrushing with earth tones
(such as a series from Dark Earth to Sand). Drybrush more low on the figure
and feather off going up.
For a splattered appearence, use your earth tone applied by stippling Use a
short, stiff brush, apply a small amount of paint and remove, but not as much
as you would for drybrushing. Apply by lightly jabbing the brush striaight
down to the target, again, apply more at the bottom edge of the garments.


Death before dishonor,
Nothing before coffee

Shameless website Plug: Military Life on Saipan, 1944-1945
http://members.aol.com/RLobinske/Saipan.html
This is a cookie-free website

Steve

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Oct 31, 2000, 8:31:04 PM10/31/00
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"Jim Pruitt" <jimr...@home.com> wrote in message
news:T4uL5.72989$65.7...@news1.rdc1.fl.home.com...

someone mentioned a bit back about using a pastel chalk and sand it down
with sand paper and save the dust, then brush the dust on how you like it
with a "soft" brush and then once set use your clear coat to seal.
Steve


Kaos Lord

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Oct 31, 2000, 9:14:57 PM10/31/00
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Steve <orc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:snKL5.5455$rl.4...@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net...

DAMN! I had forgotten all about that trick, I used to use it back when I
was building a lot of military kits, I also used to rub graphite dust into a
rust brown in order to get it to have a "Worn Leather" look.

Thanks Steve!

Jim Pruitt

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Nov 1, 2000, 9:34:10 PM11/1/00
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"Steve" <orc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:snKL5.5455$rl.4...@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
>

That sounds pretty good I'll give it a try. Thanks!
Jim Pruitt


Richard Lobinske

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Nov 1, 2000, 11:35:41 PM11/1/00
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>> someone mentioned a bit back about using a pastel chalk and sand it down
>> with sand paper and save the dust, then brush the dust on how you like it
>> with a "soft" brush and then once set use your clear coat to seal.
>> Steve
>

Make sure you use a very good clear coat over the pastels, and lay down more
than one coat. Since the pastel chalk is only dusted on, it can interfere with
the adhesion of the clear coat, producing an effect that can be easily rubbed
off (especially if you used a lot of pastel chalk) if you don't take
precautions.

Steve

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Nov 2, 2000, 12:26:37 AM11/2/00
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"Richard Lobinske" <rlob...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20001101233541...@ng-fe1.aol.com...

> >> someone mentioned a bit back about using a pastel chalk and sand it
down
> >> with sand paper and save the dust, then brush the dust on how you like
it
> >> with a "soft" brush and then once set use your clear coat to seal.
> >> Steve
> >
>
> Make sure you use a very good clear coat over the pastels, and lay down
more
> than one coat. Since the pastel chalk is only dusted on, it can interfere
with
> the adhesion of the clear coat, producing an effect that can be easily
rubbed
> off (especially if you used a lot of pastel chalk) if you don't take
> precautions.

you could fix that by making a first (very light) clear coat then right
before it is fully dry but still a little tacky add the pastel dust then
when fully dry hit it again with another clear coat
Steve


Richard Lobinske

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Nov 2, 2000, 7:09:38 AM11/2/00
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>you could fix that by making a first (very light) clear coat then right
>before it is fully dry but still a little tacky add the pastel dust then
>when fully dry hit it again with another clear coat
>Steve

However, that would eliminate a lot of the on-surface workability of the pastel
chalk, one of the big reasons for using it in the first place.

The Mighty Messenger

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Nov 3, 2000, 12:03:45 AM11/3/00
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>>you could fix that by making a first (very light) clear coat then right
>>before it is fully dry but still a little tacky add the pastel dust then
>>when fully dry hit it again with another clear coat
>>Steve
>
>However, that would eliminate a lot of the on-surface workability of the
>pastel
>chalk, one of the big reasons for using it in the first place.

Another variation of this same method is to set some of the chalk in dry paint
well & add a mixture of watered down white glue to create the consistency of
thick mud. The white glue should be thinned down to where it looks like milk.
When mixed with the chalk, it provides just enough binder to keep it from
"dusting" off at the slightest breeze. Spray several coats of fixative once it
dries, and viola! A great weathering effect that doesn't rub off!
I used this technique on a land speeder converted to be a flying rust bucket
that was shot up from hell, but still operational. Seen some use & looks good
as "new".

Nyarlathotep,
Of the Crawling Chaos, has returned from the netherverse to wreak havok upon
humanity once again.

email mfi...@hotmail.com, please place [40K] in subject. RGMW FAQ:
http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm

MoxJetSkaven

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Nov 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/4/00
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i have done this several hundreds of times (i am also a paintball sniper... )
to pb guns , figures , heck , even my sin/clothes... the trick to small amounts
of mud is study it... seriously.. if you plan on doind a hefty bit , it helpos
to know how mud gets on things... how it smears.. where it would rub off and
where it wouldnt.. i use this often just to get dirty , go hide in the woods
and see if 200 ppl shooting paintballs 300feet per second if they see me..

so anyways : usually what i do is get a _small_ spray bottle... like the ones
ppl use for flowers. then put in a light brown ink watered down till its almost
skin colored... and stand about 2 feet or more and squirt a few sprays in the
air..misting it.. then wave the model thru the cloud... figure out what looks
good... another think to do is take those chunky bits that might gather on top
of you paintjar , and use them.. works good... dont forget shadows..


jay z

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