Survey: Favorite paint brand
dog...@u.washington.edu
The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering. So here
are the questions:
1. What brands do you like? Why?
2. What brands don't you like? Why?
Thanks, Mark
Stephen Sheldon
: Hi,
: Thanks, Mark
I like Citadel paints, I have been using them for 12 years, which makes
it hard to go with another name. I like the variety, but in light of
their crappy new pots, I am contemplating a switch of brands.
I have tried Ral Partha paints, and I hated them, they did not maintain
colour when they dried, and they are chalky.
Brian O'Leary
dog...@u.washington.edu wrote in message
<7hfahb$qgq$1...@nntp3.u.washington.edu>...
>Hi,
>
>The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering. So
here
>are the questions:
>
>1. What brands do you like? Why?
It was Polly-S, I found it easy to work with and loved the colors. My
second favorite was Model Master until they thinned it.
I will probably go back to Windsor and Newton artists paints as my old
Polly-S runs out. Love the paint, but matching military colors, especially
when adding to an already exhisting army, takes lots of time.
Had decent luck with the now defunct Floquil Military Colors. The Humbrol
paints that I tried recently, seem to cover nice, but relatively speaking
dry slow.
>2. What brands don't you like? Why?
Don't like Polly Scale, too thin, too transparent. Same is true of the
newer Model Master paints. Partha is like cheap latex house paint,
Howard's Hues are better, but still a little like house paint.
Brian
ChaosOrc
hate the new pots though but i got a ton of older paint stored up
Ray Rangel
there is essentially little difference between paints. After trying Partha,
Armory, et al, I have settled on cheap craft paint.
Some of the colors have problems with coverage. Nothing that a quick
undercoat of white or gray won't solve though. As to flow properties, well,
I can tell you that a little Windsor & Newton flow enhances works wonders.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating. Likewise, I can hold up a figure
painted with craft paints and one painted with expensive hobby colors and
can't tell the difference. This is especially true when the figures have
been sealed and matted.
There are significant differences in the metal paints however. I still use
hobby metals (GW) for bayonets etc. because the metal flakes are ground so
fine.
Ral Partha and others don't actually *make* any paint. They contract to have
it made. I would be very surprised if the very same companies that make
hobby paints aren't selling the exact same stuff to Apple Barrel, Ceramcoat,
and others. The hobby paint sales couldn't support an industry that depends
on volume to make profits.
Save your money. Buy from Hobby Lobby, Wal-Mart, and craft stores. It's
probably the very same stuff that you are paying a fortune for. Take the
money you save and buy lead and more game rules.
<dog...@u.washington.edu> wrote in message
news:7hfahb$qgq$1...@nntp3.u.washington.edu...
> Hi,
>
> The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering. So
here
> are the questions:
>
> 1. What brands do you like? Why?
> 2. What brands don't you like? Why?
>
> Thanks, Mark
dwin...@voyager.net
dog...@u.washington.edu wrote:
> Hi,
>
> The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering.
So here
> are the questions:
>
> 1. What brands do you like? Why?
> 2. What brands don't you like? Why?
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
My favorites:
1)Humbrol. Consistancy, year after year. Small, fine pigmentation.
Model Master is 2nd choice, mostly due to excellent availability.
2) Any acrylic. Never have had solid, consistant results.
My 2 cents
--== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
---Share what you know. Learn what you don't.---
NEil Phillips
>Hi,
>
>The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering. So here
>are the questions:
>
>1. What brands do you like? Why?
Well, msot of my paints are Citadel. The old sort. I don't have any of
the new paints.. my brother does, I don't like the pots..
I particularly like their washes. I think I am in a minority on this
one, tho. Armour wash is great :)
For metallics, tho - I found a company called "aqueous hobby colour"
or osmething like that. THey make differnt-coloured metallics, they're
cheap, and they cover well. The jar design is.. odd. It's a nice idea
that falls down in practice.. to srop paint getting into the thread,
they have this sort of plastic plug thing which is free-turning, and
goes straight down into the jar, sealig it tight.
Unfortunately, as soon as you take the lid off, the paint that has
stayed on the plug runs straight off , and gets into the thread as
soon as you close the jar. Nevermind..
Their othe rpaints are OK, but tend to seperate out (thick at the
bottom, watery at the top) very quickly.. andhtey dont shake up very
well, you have to stir them. Which is kinda annoying..
--
NEil (phil...@gwbbs.net.au)
Support the use of real names on the Internet.
The opinions expressed in this message are not my own,
but rather are those of Microsoft Corporation.
BubbaP0956
For the past five or six years, I've stuck with the
HOMEFRONT brand of acrylic craft paints exclusively
(Homefront Interior Satin (flat) Acrylic Paint, 2 fl. oz./
59 ml.). Before that, I basically was experimenting
with about every paint I found at craft/hobby shops,
using those giving me the best results until something
better came along.
These Homefront paints are that something better.
They come in small *squeeze* bottles with a small
(1/8" or so) opening, and I have never bought a bottle
that was *clumpy* or too thick -- a little shake might
be necessary on occasion, but squeezing a little out
onto a piece of foil or a bottle cap, etc. is all the prep
(besides primer, or course) needed to get started --
if the job is small enough, even a squeeze right out of
the tube sometimes is all that's necessary. That
small opening seems to keep the paint from drying
out EXTREMELY well. I have bottles I've been using
for years that still flow smooth as a baby's bottom. :-)
If any of the paint does get thick, a little water (I add
a drop or two of shampoo to about 1/2 pint of water)
is all that's necessary to get the paint right back to the
perfect consistency. It drys to the touch very quickly
(although I mount my minis on something with which
to hold 'em while painting), and if painting say, a
squad of 40K space marines, the first is ready for
the next paint color after the 10th has been finished
with the starting color. They blend well, and come
in a wide range of colors (nowhere near as large as
the Citadel line, for instance, but mixing a new color
is a quick (and cheaper!) alternative that works for
me. I save the used bottles and wash them out
(they do have large screw-off caps besides the tiny
built-in opening) for use to save my favorite highly
used custom mixes, if the color is to be used again
and again over days or months (or longer <G>).
They also (again using soap and water, or alcohol)
do well for washes, and I love them for drybrushing
as well.
I really love it -- a couple of bucks a bottle and
results comparable to something airbrushed! Hum-
brol and Games Workshop paints are nice, but
seem to give me too many problems (and cost too
darned much) over time to come close to the effi-
cacy of these *craft* paints. I've even tried other
paints by the parent manufacturing company
(Plaid Enterprises, Inc. in Norcross GA), but have
not had the same results. I'm always open to try-
ing new things, but right now since it ain't broke, I
ain't trying to fix it. :-) It works for me, and that's
what matters; for all of us: whatever you find that
works best for you is the paint you should use --
not what someone else tells you is a *better*
paint.
As to the brands I don't like, it's anything other
than Homefront. :-) I'm sure I haven't tried every
brand available, but for the price and results (as
I said, they work for me!) these are the paints I
prefer. If I found something better, I would use it,
so I'm always open to suggestions (so long as
the price and results are comparable or better).
I look forward to seeing everyone else's faves;
who knows, maybe I'll change after all. :-)
Bubba Pearson
Knoxville, MD
Rob Chellis
is good, but pricey. Craft-store paints can work OK, but many don't cover
well. Lately I have been using some paints by Renaissance Ink....great
value, nice coverage....they are thick, but with a little Windsor & Newton
Flow Improver you can get whatever consistency you want. The only drawback
is a limited color selection at this time, but they are adding new colors
all the time. Give 'em a try! (they also have flocking gels for doing
bases, water, etc....haven't tried them yet but have seen the results on
their display figures....looks nice).
Rob
<dog...@u.washington.edu> wrote in message
news:7hfahb$qgq$1...@nntp3.u.washington.edu...
> Hi,
>
> The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering. So
here
> are the questions:
>
> 1. What brands do you like? Why?
> 2. What brands don't you like? Why?
>
> Thanks, Mark
Chris
Liquitex's vinyl-style paints. For general painting I use what ever I
get cheap. I also use a lot of the Armory colors for their basic WWII
paints. I use Howard Hues paints over white alot. Citadel, esp. the
older type, I use for highlights. I use Partha paints to go over black
primed figures. I use Poly S for WWII vehicles. I use craft store
paints, too, for what ever effect I am after. Chris von Fahnestock
Andy O'Neill
dog...@u.washington.edu writes
>1. What brands do you like? Why?
Fantastic quality, but limited to 'standard' artists colours.
Vallejo ( Andrea ).
High quality, squeezy bottles, good range of colours. Bit pricey.
Colour Party Paints.
Good range of colours, less mixing. Gooey, fairly thin and hence very
useful for staining/glaze effects. Cheap if bought at conventions.
Miniature paints
Excellent undercoat, tanned flesh, sand, leather and chocolate brown.
Cheap art shop acrylics
Cheap, mostly 'do the job'.
Limited selection of Humbrol
Accurate historical colours, but don't like the container and you need
to stir the stuff.
Halfords car spray
Undercoat and car lacquer ( gloss varnish ).
Winsor Newton
Matte acrylic, water mixable oils, inks
Humbrol
Mattcote
>2. What brands don't you like? Why?
Citadel - well with a few exceptions
Expensive, poor design of bottles.
Good Matte varnish.
Also an interesting range of browns which can be worthwhile.
Tamiya
Weird, thin.
Almost any others not mentioned as liked.
Andy O'Neill
www.l-25.demon.co.uk/index.htm
Liverpool Wargames Association
www.l-25.demon.co.uk/LWA.htm
Buddy Chamberlain
threads and hardens into quite the adhesive? I have taken to using an old
steak knife slipped under the edges to crack the dried paint beofre I'm able
to open them. and I have callouses on my hands to show how hard they are to
open even then. Anyone else have this problem?
- Buddy
NEil Phillips <phil...@gwbbs.net.au> wrote in message
news:373bc408...@news.ade.connect.com.au...
> dog...@u.washington.edu saw fit to share the following wisdom:
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering. So
here
> >are the questions:
> >
> >1. What brands do you like? Why?
>
Paul Lesack
>
> Have you noticed that on the new Citadel pots the paint gets stuck in the
> threads and hardens into quite the adhesive? I have taken to using an old
> steak knife slipped under the edges to crack the dried paint beofre I'm able
> to open them. and I have callouses on my hands to show how hard they are to
> open even then. Anyone else have this problem?
>
> - Buddy
Run the lid of the paint under hot water. The lid will expand
enough to loosen the bond between the pot and the lid.
To improve your grip on the ridiculous rounded lid, wrap an
elastic band around the paint lid. It gives a nice, non-slip
surface to hold on to.
If it's really sticking, wrap an elastic band around the pot
itself -- twice as much grip. When unscrewing, never pull or push
down.
If you have the disposable cash, dump the paint into an empty RP
paint pot.
If you're going to use them in an airbrush, dump them into an
empty film can. Try to use a film can with the lid that comes
down over the outside (Kodak, Ilford), not on the inside (Fuji).
Attach an airbrush feed tube to one spare lid -- you can now have
an assortment of premixed colours that you can switch very
quickly.
Paul
Avatar
:
: 1. What brands do you like? Why?
I usually use citadel paints. I bought tons of it years ago and it is all
still in good shape. I haven't had any of the problems that some others
seem to attribute to the paint...Except that the citadel yello paint does
definitely suck on coverage....Just the fact that in the 10 or so years
since I really bought all of this paint maybe 2 bottles have dried up on
me makes me really happy...
Occasionally tamiya paints make a pass through my painting bench because
they have a decent texture and for years were the only place to get a
decent water based gun metal color...
As for undercoating I primarily use Armory grey and white primer and
testors flat black depending on what effect I want on my model.
: 2. What brands don't you like? Why?
I do not like anything that requires thinner to clean up. The fumes and
just the general mess are a paint in the ass....Testors, floquil you name
I've used it in the past and threw it all out as well...What was annoying
was that for years the only place you could get decent gold and silver
paint was from the testors line...:P Now there are more options.
I also stopped using Polly S paints. I used to use them exclusively for
years because they had a really decent WWII historical color range to use.
I stopped using them and began looking for options once I got tired of the
fact that in the 2 months between model kits when I was younger I would
have to replace half of my paints because they had dried out...:P
It is odd, because nowadays my paints tend to spend more time open than
they used to during that period, but I haven't had any drying out problems
since I switched over to citadel paints. Though, I have not purchased any
of the newer citadel paints in the screw top bottles...I figure if I need
to replace I'll just buy the color I want and drop it in one of the old
pots...Then it will keep better...
Avatar
Glenn Williams
>Hi,
>
>The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering. So here
>are the questions:
>
>1. What brands do you like? Why?
>2. What brands don't you like? Why?
>
>Thanks, Mark
Apple Barrel -seems exactly the same as Citadel, although a tad
thicker, but consider: 2 oz for $0.58. That's what? About one sixth
or one eighth the price of Citadel? Good coverage (esp'ly yellow and
reds). Downside? None except being seen shopping in the craft
section of WalMart.
Stephen Sheldon
: In article <7hfahb$qgq$1...@nntp3.u.washington.edu>,
: dog...@u.washington.edu wrote:
: > Hi,
: >
: > The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering.
: So here
: > are the questions:
: >
: > 1. What brands do you like? Why?
: > 2. What brands don't you like? Why?
: >
: > Thanks, Mark
: My favorites:
: 1)Humbrol. Consistancy, year after year. Small, fine pigmentation.
: Model Master is 2nd choice, mostly due to excellent availability.
: 2) Any acrylic. Never have had solid, consistant results.
I have an odd tendency to lick my brushes to keep them pointed, can't do
that with enamel. Also, It's very hard to highlight with enamel.
Shadowmage
get much better quality paints.
Regards
-Scott
http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Chamber/8387/index.html
There's a famous Light Horse song that goes.....
"Did you think I would leave you dying
When there's room on my horse for two,
get up here, lets be flying,
there'll always be room for you."
Paul Lesack wrote in message <373C4220...@nospam.unixg.ubc.ca>...
Don Kalinich
not shaken. This helps keep paint off the bottom of the lid, where it
either solidifies (and you lose the use of that paint) or it then gets
transfered to the pot threads.
KFrye
an empty pot of Armory paint away, but I have tossed out quite a few
dried-up ones. I used to look down on craft paint, but more and more bottles
are appearing on my workbench.
Citadel, aside from their washes, makes a rather nice white primer - I just
bought a can this week ($7.99) and found to to be much better than Armory's
version (which frankly, I think is Le Sucque - grainy and crumbly and
*worse* than useless...)
Regards
Keith
Rob Chellis wrote in message <7hh7bn$iu4$1...@nntp2.atl.mindspring.net>...
NEil Phillips
wisdom:
>I have an odd tendency to lick my brushes to keep them pointed, can't do
>that with enamel. Also, It's very hard to highlight with enamel.
I've got a friend who does this..
ick. What's wrong with vaseline? (that's what I use..)
NEil Phillips
following wisdom:
>Have you noticed that on the new Citadel pots the paint gets stuck in the
>threads and hardens into quite the adhesive? I have taken to using an old
>steak knife slipped under the edges to crack the dried paint beofre I'm able
>to open them. and I have callouses on my hands to show how hard they are to
>open even then. Anyone else have this problem?
well, my brother has come to me with one stuck before.. I got ti with
a couple of pairs of pliers.. love that lever action :)
Dallas Gavan
1. HUMBROL- great range of colours, good coverage and opacity (except
white and yellow) and they spray as well as they brush on. Best
metallics.
TESTORS- Good range, coverage and opacity.
CITADEL- White and yellow have reasonable coverage and opacity.
2. TAMIYA- they stink, the colours don't cover as well and they're
trouble to clean up.
RAL PARTHA- Dry too quickly on the brush, uneven finish (ie matte
is often semi-matte in places).
ACRYLICS IN GENERAL- Lousy metallics.
I'm relatively new to acrylics, so I haven't learned all the techniques
yet. The above reflect my experience and may be different once I know
what I'm doing.
Dal.
--
http://www.freeyellow.com/members7/spanner/index.html
Andy O'Neill
<les...@nospam.unixg.ubc.ca> writes
>Run the lid of the paint under hot water. The lid will expand
>enough to loosen the bond between the pot and the lid.
>
>To improve your grip on the ridiculous rounded lid, wrap an
>elastic band around the paint lid. It gives a nice, non-slip
>surface to hold on to.
Or alternatively...
Dump the thing in the nearest bin.
Invest in paints that you can open without contortions.
Andy O'Neill
<ste...@sfu.ca> writes
>I have an odd tendency to lick my brushes to keep them pointed, can't do
>that with enamel. Also, It's very hard to highlight with enamel.
You know where Cadmium yellow and titanium white get their name?
Don't lick your brushes.
Bill Armintrout
>it hard to go with another name. I like the variety, but in light of
>their crappy new pots, I am contemplating a switch of brands.
The "old" Citadel paint is still available, as the Coat d'Arms line of paint
from Gladiator Games.
http://members.xoom.com/minipage/new/gldfeb199.html
- Bill
Bill Armintrout
>thicker, but consider: 2 oz for $0.58. That's what? About one sixth
>or one eighth the price of Citadel? Good coverage (esp'ly yellow and
>reds).
I find Apple Barrel good for washes, but prefer my paints just a bit thicker
for good coverage. I've had good luck with Ceramcoat and (very thick)
Aleene's craft paints.
- Bill
NEil Phillips
following wisdom:
>>I like Citadel paints, I have been using them for 12 years, which makes
HMm. The old citadel paints, but in decent bottles?
Looks interesting.
Anyone tried them?
Don Kalinich
dry out much faster that the paint in the old pop-top pots -- YMMV.
Don
Avatar wrote:
>
<snip>
Jay
>I've found that the Citadel paints in the new screw top pots tends to
>dry out much faster that the paint in the old pop-top pots -- YMMV.
Polly Scale all the way (IMO, of course).
I use Armoury spray primer, and Polly-S wherever I can. The Citadel
stuff fills gaps, and I like their inks (mainly beacuse I'm too lazy
to make my own). Most of my non-Polly-S paint is Ral Partha.
Jay
Ottawa, Ontario
When in doubt, assume I've typed a smiley :^)
Remove the wildcard when replying by email.
"The 'eathen in 'is blindness bows down to wood an' stone;
'E don't obey no orders unless they is 'is own.
The 'eathen in 'is blindness must end where 'e began,
But the backbone of the Army is the Non-commissioned man!"
Kipling
Tony Barr
Phillips) wrote:
>HMm. The old citadel paints, but in decent bottles?
>
>Looks interesting.
>
>Anyone tried them?
Yes, and I can confirm they are excellent. Gladiator gave me one
bottle as a sample. Next show I bought some more. Next time I intend
to buy the rest. They cover very well and at 1.10 UKP per 20ml bottle
are very good value.
Cheers
Tony
--
Tony Barr
Webmaster, Society of Ancients
http://www.soa.org.uk
Bobby Wong
>>
>>Looks interesting.
>>
>>Anyone tried them?
>
>Yes, and I can confirm they are excellent. Gladiator gave me one
>bottle as a sample. Next show I bought some more. Next time I intend
>to buy the rest. They cover very well and at 1.10 UKP per 20ml bottle
>are very good value.
>
Anyone know of a distributor in the States?
BOBBY
Stephen Sheldon
: In article <7hhuhc$i5j$1...@morgoth.sfu.ca>, Stephen Sheldon
: <ste...@sfu.ca> writes
: >I have an odd tendency to lick my brushes to keep them pointed, can't do
: >that with enamel. Also, It's very hard to highlight with enamel.
: You know where Cadmium yellow and titanium white get their name?
: Don't lick your brushes.
GW paints are all non-toxic.
Stephen Sheldon
: ste...@sfu.ca (Stephen Sheldon) saw fit to share the following
: wisdom:
: >I have an odd tendency to lick my brushes to keep them pointed, can't do
: >that with enamel. Also, It's very hard to highlight with enamel.
: I've got a friend who does this..
: ick. What's wrong with vaseline? (that's what I use..)
: --
I don't EAT the paint, it just allows me to carefully control the
fluidity of the paint when I am working on an area, especially if I need
to keep a wet edge for feathering.
Ray Rangel
just
> bought a can this week ($7.99) and found to to be much better than
Armory's
> version (which frankly, I think is Le Sucque - grainy and crumbly and
> *worse* than useless...)
>
Amen to that, Armory primer is the worst. To be avoided at all costs.
As for me, I will stick with Floquil gray primer (both spray and brush).
Richard
<ste...@sfu.ca> writes
>dog...@u.washington.edu wrote:
>: Hi,
>
>: The recent post about Armory vs. Ral Partha paints got me wondering. So here
>: are the questions:
>
>: 1. What brands do you like? Why?
>: 2. What brands don't you like? Why?
>
>: Thanks, Mark
>it hard to go with another name. I like the variety, but in light of
>their crappy new pots, I am contemplating a switch of brands.
>
I agree. I used to love citadel paints but the new ones dry up too
quickly, although with the metals this is an improvement as in the old
ones they used to settle and dry up leaving you with nothing but a pot
of shallow water :-)
see ya,
Ranger
Tactical Strike is a free Science Fiction wargame.
You can find a download as well as see the Enigma website at:
http://www.zoomnet.net/~alice/enigma/index.html
Ed Allen
<Bill_Ar...@msn.com> wrote:
>>Apple Barrel -...
>I find Apple Barrel good for washes, but prefer my paints just a bit thicker
>for good coverage. I've had good luck with Ceramcoat and (very thick)
>Aleene's craft paints.
>
>- Bill
FolkArt, Plaid's next step up from Apple Barrel, seems pretty comparable
with Ceramcoat. I use both and a few colors from Apple Barrel. I think I
get less separation in FolkArt than in some colors from Ceramcoat.
Ed
--
Ed Allen
Programmer/System Administrator
Center For DNA Sequencing and Technology
Stanford University
al...@sequence.stanford.edu
http://tetrad.stanford.edu
Marcus Bleech
other brands because they provide a fairly large assortment of colors, cost
approximately half that of other brands of hobby acrylics, each bottle
contains 2 to 3 times the quantity of Polly S, Citadel, etc, have
convenient lids, and in the US are available at almost every major
department store chain (Walmart, Jamesway, Kmart, Hills, and so on.) I will
buy different brands for an odd color.
For airbrushing I always used diluted Polly S paints. They covered well and
rarely clogged. Now it's hard to find them. Are they out of business?
m. bleech
Ian Marsh
Inscribe, available in art shops, which come in 2 fl oz bottles. They're
also in squeeze bottles with tiny openings - ideal for placing just a
drop on a palette (I use a white ceramic bathroom tile). Or you can
unscrew the top if you need vast quantities. Larger bottles are also
available for some of the basic colours.
The Holly Red is a really vibrant red which covers well, and which I can
use in confidence over dark colours. The Porcelain Flesh is a
little too anaemic for me, and I always bump it up with Rowney's Cryla
Flow Flesh. There's no decent mid green, though and I always end up
mixing to get the colour I want. But then I'm used to that.
Inscribe also does a range of matt camouflage paints, clearly aimed at
painters of model aircraft and vehicles. They're one pound 49 pence a 2
fl oz bottle (the ordinary range is cheaper, I think about one pound 29
pence for a 2fl oz bottle).
Covering power is good, far better than the Rowney Cryla Flow colours
(also from art shops) I use to fill in the gaps in the colour range (and
which used to be my main paints).
I also use Citadel primers (black or white), both of which are cheaper
than car spray paint, and Citadel washes, whcih behave superbly. I hate
the new bottles. :-)
Ian
In article <19990514041915...@ngol07.aol.com>,
bubba...@aol.com (BubbaP0956) wrote:
> >1. What brands do you like? Why?
> >2. What brands don't you like? Why?
>
> For the past five or six years, I've stuck with the
> HOMEFRONT brand of acrylic craft paints exclusively
> (Homefront Interior Satin (flat) Acrylic Paint, 2 fl. oz./
> 59 ml.). Before that, I basically was experimenting
> with about every paint I found at craft/hobby shops,
> using those giving me the best results until something
> better came along.
>
> These Homefront paints are that something better.
> They come in small *squeeze* bottles with a small
> (1/8" or so) opening, <snip>
--
Ian Marsh
email: mod...@my-dejanews.com
Paul M. M. Jacobus
On Tue, 25 May 1999, Ian Marsh wrote:
> I also use Citadel primers (black or white), both of which are cheaper
> than car spray paint,
Really? The situation is reversed over here.
JD
Ian Marsh
same size of car primer I've come across is usually 49 pence more expensive.
All of which makes a difference if you go in and buy several cans at once.
However in small-town toy stores that stock GW/Citadel products, the Citadel
primer is ramped up to six pounds or so. So it does depend on where you shop.
Believe me, I wouldn't ordinarily recommend GW/Citadel stuff, but their
primer seems of good quality. So too the matt varnish (or should that be
semi-matt?).
Ian
In article <Pine.SUN.3.96.99052...@access2.digex.net>,
--
Andy O'Neill
dejanews.com> writes
>Yup. Citadel primer costs five pounds in GW shops. The cheapest can of the
>same size of car primer I've come across is usually 49 pence more expensive.
>All of which makes a difference if you go in and buy several cans at once.
In my experience, Halfords is both cheaper and higher quality than GW.
If you like buying several cans at once, they do deals such as 3 for the
price of 2 frequently.
>Believe me, I wouldn't ordinarily recommend GW/Citadel stuff, but their
>primer seems of good quality. So too the matt varnish (or should that be
>semi-matt?).
The spray varnish is OK.
Spray thinner layers for a more matte effect.
I recommend Halfords car lacquer as a cheaper and more robust
alternative.
Coat with Humbrol Mattcote once the lacquer has had several days to dry
off. This'll matted it right down but isn't really tough enough on it's
own.
The downside is that this stuff is far better applied by brush than
airbrush, but that allows you to leave some bits gloss anyhow.
Tips:
If you thin mattcote, it will take forever to dry completely.
Shake the bottle frequently to ensure a matte finish.
Paint on thin, by using a lightly loaded brush.
YF21Bowman
Primer" or something like that. Unfortunetly, it is quite rare. It's supposed
to act like a filler and it leaves the smoothest surface.
Guld Bowman
YF21B...@aol.com ICQ#=32965161
"They say God lives inside you. Well, I hope he likes enchiladas 'cause that's
what He's gettin"-Jack Handey, SNL "Deep Thoughts"
Nazdreg89
>primer seems of good quality. So too the matt varnish (or should that be
>semi-matt?).
oogy. i've found their matte to be decidely gloss. but my one can seems to be
the exception from what folks have been saying.
i'll stick to my floquil figure-flat.
gah. i can't stand shiny minis. gah.
-------------
Baby don't sit in the corner.
ICQ: 14401247
Thane Morgan
Marcus Bleech wrote:
I personally have had only bad experiences with folk art and apple barrel - I
only use them for terrain now, and often they crack off of that. BUT....
Most of the chain hobby stores carry them, such as Michaels and Hobby Lobby. I
usually get brushes from michaels.
Thane Morgan
www.thanesgames.com
Paul M. M. Jacobus
On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Thane Morgan wrote:
> I personally have had only bad experiences with folk art and apple
> barrel - I only use them for terrain now, and often they crack off of
> that.
Whereas they're almost all I use now, and have some armies exclusively
done up in them. Once I heard Polly-S was going, I had to find something
else, gave these a shot, and now they're all I use.
JD
John Hwang
> Since the object of paint is to cover a surface with a particular
> color there is essentially little difference between paints. After
> trying Partha, Armory, et al, I have settled on cheap craft paint.
I dunno, but if it works for you, more power to ya.
> Some of the colors have problems with coverage. Nothing that a quick
> undercoat of white or gray won't solve though. As to flow properties,
> well, I can tell you that a little Windsor & Newton flow enhances
> works wonders.
Pigment density varies by brand and by color.
> The proof of the pudding is in the eating. Likewise, I can hold up a
> figure painted with craft paints and one painted with expensive hobby
> colors and can't tell the difference. This is especially true when the
> figures have been sealed and matted.
Good point.
> Ral Partha and others don't actually *make* any paint. They contract
> to have it made. I would be very surprised if the very same companies
> that make hobby paints aren't selling the exact same stuff to Apple
> Barrel, Ceramcoat, and others. The hobby paint sales couldn't support
> an industry that depends on volume to make profits.
Just because they contract to have it made doesn't mean the formulations
are the same.
> > 1. What brands do you like? Why?
Citadel: good paint for miniatures; new "screw-on" bottles are
overpriced, tend to glue themselves shut. Will probably switch to
Floquil/Polly S as I run out of old "pop-top" Citadel.
> > 2. What brands don't you like? Why?
Ral Partha: this paint is terrible, chalky, flaky JUNK. Stay away.
> > Thanks, Mark
Tamiya: good for plastic, bad for metal. Terrible adhesion over
Armoury primer.
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
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