Newbie Question: Oil-based primer and acrylic paint?
Paul Atreides
first one tomorrow. I downloaded the Miniatures Painting Guide and
FAQ and bought a bunch of paint and brushes and an especially neat-
looking wizard guy. But now that I'm looking through all my stuff, I
realize that I've purchased spray enamel primer and acryilic paints.
Is this going to make a big difference? I've been using the terms
"enamel" and "oil-based" pretty much interchangeably; is that a
mistake? All the label says is "Model Master Custom Spray Enamel -
White Primer" and a lot of warnings about not huffing it. No
indication about it being oil or water-based. I know that I'm bound
to make mistakes when I'm starting out, but I would like to prevent
some of those with research first.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
--
Paul Atreides
atre...@sover.net
Robert Singers
It should be ok. It's good that you actually got "primer" and are not using
spray paint like it's a primer as Games Workshop espouses. You might find that
the paint my bead on top of spray primer sometimes. Using a tiny bit of dish
washing detergent in water to thin your paints usually helps cover in this
instance. Have a look at http://www.rgmw.org under paint for some other
resources.
Malcolm McDowall
"Robert Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:asrofg$s09$1...@si05.rsvl.unisys.com...
Echoing Robert, I think hte other key piece of advice is that you can paint
models with a combination of enamel (often refered to as oil based), oil
paints, acrylic (water based, though in fact isopropyl alcohol is the
solvent)and artists acrylics , but as the oil and water based paints are not
compatible, you must let them dry thoroughly in-between. For modelling
acrylics, they can be touch dry in minutes and properly dry within half an
hour. Enamels really take several hours to dry properly (and enamel
metallics are notorious for contaminating later coats of paint and varnish).
Oils can take days to properly dry (though this is speeded up if you thin
them either white spirit, which also produces a matt finish).
So in your example, I would say that the spray enamel primer sounds fine,
but would suggest letting it dry overnight before painting with acrylics (or
enamels for that matter).
Mac
Peter Flynn
Due to the environmental laws it has bee quite awhile since you can buy
anything other. You might be able to get alkyd enamel, but that's a
resin-based paint and not really suitable for our hobby. I've found that
plain old acrylic craft paint is the way to go. It's cheap, and effective.
Soap and water cleanup is something that won't create problems indoors
either.
Pete
"Paul Atreides" <atre...@sover.net> wrote in message
news:Xns92DCD94C0AF0E...@64.154.60.178...
John
The enamel primer and acrylic paints should work out fine. Just give the
primer a day or so to fully set.
Alan Walker
"Robert Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:asrofg$s09$1...@si05.rsvl.unisys.com...
What is in "primer" that isn't in other paints? I want to prime my figures
with my air brush and then use acrylic GW paint on top. What should I be
using in my air brush for the primer coat? When I tried to use artist
acrylic (white) and distilled water I found the paint made little droplets
on the surface and the air brush would stop working (I assume from paint
clogging the little orifice), I only have the entry level testers airbrush.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Take out hatesspam to reply.
Rob Singers
> What is in "primer" that isn't in other paints? I want to prime my figures
> with my air brush and then use acrylic GW paint on top. What should I be
> using in my air brush for the primer coat? When I tried to use artist
> acrylic (white) and distilled water I found the paint made little droplets
> on the surface and the air brush would stop working (I assume from paint
> clogging the little orifice), I only have the entry level testers airbrush.
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not an expert in paint chemistry but basically primer provides a surface for
paint to adhere to. From experience I know that using the right primer means
that it takes less effort and paint to get a decent coverage. I can't help you
with the air brush. I use Tamiya Grey spray primer.
Most people confuse the primer with the basecoat.
DDetmer89
islolate the metal from the paint. Years ago lead rot was caused by solvent
based paints and lead interacting. Thus primer was used to seperate the two.
The second reason for primer is to provide a surface for the paint to adhere
to. To prevent lead rot, any water based paint will do the trick. Water based
paint dosn't stick well to metal surfaces a lot of times. Thus using a primer
provides a painting surface. I normally use a white water based paint as a
primer and it has been working well for many years.
On the subject of airbrushes. I was a commercial artist until I retired and
used an airbrush a lot. A little trick I learned years ago was to buy an
ultrasonic cleaner to clean the brush with. Using a water, dishwater detergent
and a spot of alcohol dip the tip in the cleaner for a few seconds and that
usually does the trick with water based paints. There are commercial cleaners
also available. For solvent based (emanmals) use turps or a commercial cleaner.
When buying an airbrush for figures, don't spend a lot. The expensive air
brushes are more for very thin water based paints such as gauche or dyes.
Good luck
RJS
Andy
<<>>
> What is in "primer" that isn't in other paints? I want to prime my figures
> with my air brush and then use acrylic GW paint on top. What should I be
> using in my air brush for the primer coat?
I'd advise you not to prime by spraying.
Get a large-ish cheap brush like one out the humbrol range.
These are something like 60pence from a used-to-be-beatties shop
locally.
Get hold of some galvanised metal primer.
A "small" can is huge by miniatures painting standards.
My can of "Blackfriars" "Interior and exterior priming paint" cost
3.99.
Obviously, galvanised metal is garage doors and fences and near enough
chemically to white metal figures.
My primer works fine on plastics and I used it on all the empire stuff
I've been painting recently.
Thins with turps substitute and you could probably use it in an
airbrush.
Thinned.
Goes on cream coloured.
Takes a day to cure properly.
Bonds far stronger than any other primer I have ( sellotape )
tested... the idea being it ought to chip less.
One of our club members Dr Martin Stephenson uses a water based
acrylic primer intended for similiar work.
I think if you search using google on rgmh you ought to find a post
off doc martin with the specific brand he has.
> When I tried to use artist
> acrylic (white) and distilled water I found the paint made little droplets
> on the surface and the air brush would stop working (I assume from paint
> clogging the little orifice), I only have the entry level testers airbrush.
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I think you probably have the airbrush adjusted wrong or haven't mixed
the paint well enough.
Instead of distilled water, you'd be better off with car-screen wash.
Dirt cheap, the isopropyl alcohol in it is the bit you're really after
but it's cheaper to buy screen wash than ipa.
hth
Zac
<ao...@lycos.co.uk> wrote:
> Bonds far stronger than any other primer I have ( sellotape )
> tested... the idea being it ought to chip less.
Do you not gloss coat or matte coat your figures after you paint them?
Andy
Yep.
IME, the tougher the paint job is, the better.