Q: Water mixable Oils
Jim Venn
AN>I'm pretty sure I talked to wargames people who've used oils.
AN>I wonder what they varnish them with?
AN>I tried these yesterday and they are absolutely brilliant to work with.
AN>Went on really smooth and even....
AN>Anyone out there any ideas?
<?> I don't see the problem. Primer is primer..
Varnish them with.. varnish (varnish being a resin-like natural
product).
As someone mentioned, the only problem is mixing oils and
acrylics on the same figure.. the oil will bleed.
OTOH,, there is a relatively new paint.. (can't think of the
exact name.. something like Alkyrids..?). These are, as I
understand it, some sort of resin.. so they act like oils,
but dry in like a few hours..
I priced them a year or so ago, and they're very expensive
still (compared to oils or acrylics..)
If interested, check at an art store..
Jim
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Andy O'Neill
In article <8717...@airsep.com>, Jim Venn <jim....@airsep.com> writes
>As someone mentioned, the only problem is mixing oils and
>acrylics on the same figure.. the oil will bleed.
>
>OTOH,, there is a relatively new paint.. (can't think of the
>exact name.. something like Alkyrids..?).
Them there MAX paints are (I believe) alkyds.
And painting over acrylics, or painting acrylics over them is
specifically stated as a no-no in the brochure.
And yes they're still expensive - £4/5 per tube.
>These are, as I
>understand it, some sort of resin.. so they act like oils,
>but dry in like a few hours..
>
>I priced them a year or so ago, and they're very expensive
>still (compared to oils or acrylics..)
>
>If interested, check at an art store..
Did do.
I've since used the water mixable oils to paint a couple of 15mm horses.
To see what happened I then coated with acrylic varnish.
This was a week or two back now.
They look really good.
And haven't bled as yet ( is this a long-term effect ? )
Cheers,
Andy O'Neill
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Christian Gelszus
Jim Venn wrote:
> As someone mentioned, the only problem is mixing oils and
> acrylics on the same figure.. the oil will bleed.
It should be no problem to paint oils over acrylica; the acrylics
provide a perfect base coat that absorbes the oil medium very well.
Acrylics over oils should be no problem as long as the oils are really
DRY (unfortunately, this can take quite a time ;-) )
By the way: this is the big problem with varnishing oil-painted
miniatures, too. The oils must be 100% dry to evade a reaction between
the colours and the varnish - for certain colours or thick layers of
paint this can take up to one year!I really like painting with oils, but
I only use them for collection and competition miniatures that are not
going to be touched after painting and therefore can left unvarnished a
certain time.
Andy O'Neill
In article <5t55h8$hhv$1...@news00.btx.dtag.de>, Christian Gelszus
<Christia...@t-online.de> writes
>It should be no problem to paint oils over acrylica; the acrylics
>provide a perfect base coat that absorbes the oil medium very well.
>Acrylics over oils should be no problem as long as the oils are really
>DRY (unfortunately, this can take quite a time ;-) )
Yep, this is my (recent) experience.
Oils are *really* nice to paint with, and a joy to blend.
But I can still smell the linseed oil on the big figure I recently
painted.
>By the way: this is the big problem with varnishing oil-painted
>miniatures, too. The oils must be 100% dry to evade a reaction between
>the colours and the varnish - for certain colours or thick layers of
>paint this can take up to one year!I really like painting with oils, but
>I only use them for collection and competition miniatures that are not
>going to be touched after painting and therefore can left unvarnished a
>certain time.
Hmmm - yep.
Unfortunately, this probably means I shall return to acrylics for most
of my painting.
Christian Gelszus
Andy O'Neill wrote:
> Oils are *really* nice to paint with, and a joy to blend.
> But I can still smell the linseed oil on the big figure I recently
> painted.
Perhaps you should try a different medium for mixing your oils. I use
something the Germans call "Terpentinersatz" (sorry - does anybody know
the right translation? "turpentine replacement" sounds a little weird
...). It's cheaper than the artist stuff (it's sold in hardware stores
...), dries faster and the results are acceptable.
Christian
Tony Barr
On 19 Aug 1997 21:56:34 GMT, Christia...@t-online.de
(Christian Gelszus) wrote:
"Terpentinersatz" = Turpentine substitute (a.k.a. white spirit)
Tony
--
Tony Barr
Secretary, Humberside Wargames Society, Hull, England.
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Andy O'Neill
In article <19970823052...@ladder01.news.aol.com>, BatHead207
<bathe...@aol.com> writes
>I believe what you are referring to is in America, called "turpenoid"( not
>sure if that's a brand name or not, it's been a while since I used it) .
>It's not exactly turpentine, but some kind of derivative.As you said, it's
>cheap, and depending on how much you mix in the paint, you can adjust not
>only the drying time, (more=dries quicker and glossier,less=slower and
>flatter-I think) but how glossy or flat it ends up.(even though most will
>overcoat it anyway)
I'm allergic - hence water mixable oils.
And the Skaven rat-ogre seems dry now.
My conclusion:
If you have a week or two to spare, then these water mixable oils are
well worth considering.
If you're at all impatient, then they're maybe not worth the hassle.
Jim Venn
BA>> "Terpentinersatz" (sorry - does anybody know
BA>>the right translation?
Ersatz is literally "replacement", but if you've ever had
ersatz coffee, you *know* that's not what it means..!
However, ersatz is used in English also.. basically having
the implication (in English) of "cheap fake cuz we can't get or afford
the real stuff, but it'll work".. in German it just means
"substitute" (a popular term in Germany in later WWII days..).
In english you'd probably see something like "NuTurp"
Jim
And for the MtG types.. see Ersatz Gnomes..
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