The "Perfect" water for minis
BBI-Cra...@webtv.net
afsi...@hotmail.com
BBI-Cra...@webtv.net wrote:
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> Greetings!!!
> It's been a long time since I last posted here, but I really haven't
> had anything new to say.
> Anyway, I found the "perfect" water for use in a mini terrain set,
and
> it's FREE!!!!!
> I went into the local harware store (ACE), and looked at the Crayola
> paint section. The have a TON of different color paint sample sheets,
> including those perfect for using as a bottom of a lake, river, etc. I
> picked out a few different colors and did sme experiments.
> One thing I learned, however, was to make sure you coat the paper
sample
> with white glue, or it will peel the paint off of the paper!!!!
> Perhaps this is old hat to some of you, but it made me VERY happy.
> I'm in the process of making a sludge pump, and the Crayola floro
green
> sample paper wll be a perfect base for a pool of sludge.
> BTW, I'm also planning to add a flashing red light to the top of this
> item. It's one of those flashing red lights that you see advertising
> beer and alcohol, the types that you see bartenders wearing.
> Has anyone tried using one of these lights? If so, any advice on
> placing the on/off button? I have some ideas, just like to hear of any
> other attempts.
>
> Crazy Horse
>
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A realistic, if somewhat expensive, way of creating water is to use the
solvent glues used for plastic kits. They're sometimes
called "polystyrene cement". Get one that isn't too runny.
First you need a base colour. Card covered with an appropriate oil-
based paint is best. Let the paint 'dry'. Then mix the glue with a drop
of ink. You may first need to dilute the ink with the runny, very
volatile kind of plastic glue to get the shade you want, or even mix
different ink colours together. Then gently stir the thick glue and the
ink together making sure you don't get too many air bubbles in the
glue. Run the mixture onto the coloured card. If you want a rough water
look, tease the surface of the glue with a toothpick. For a smooth
water effect, just let the glue run level.
When dry, this produces a very life-like water effect. If you get the
colour of the base and the colour & concentration of the ink right, you
can see part way into the model water, but not all the way down - just
like real water.
Alexander
afsi...@hotmail.com
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Jpattern
>> A realistic, if somewhat expensive, way of creating water is to use the
solvent glues used for plastic kits. They're sometimes
called "polystyrene cement". Get one that isn't too runny. <<
Good lord! Not only does would a puddle of that stuff put out enough fumes to
knock out a horse, it would also eat through most protective finishes you
applied to the card!
A less expensive, less toxic, and less damaging alternative is artist's acrylic
gel medium. It's an artist's medium (well, duh!) that looks like white glue but
dries clear. Lay down a few thick coats over a painted surface (or paint chip
card) and it looks like water. You can tint it with clear acrylic paints or
water-based inks, and you can also tease it into ripples. Good stuff.
Jeff Moore
jpat...@aol.com
Justin Taylor
effects visit the League of Ausberg
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/AMcINTYRE3/homepage.htm
By the way I think you are using the wrong format to post. Plain text is
good.
--
Justin Taylor
Veni Vidi Vici
Quality Transfers
http://www.3vwargames.co.uk
afsi...@hotmail.com
It's true that you have to do it in a very well-ventilated place. If
you can do it outside, that's even better. The oil paint doesn't seem
to get eaten by the slightly diluted glue. I only create water for
dungeon settings, so my pools are small. As I have the plastic glue
anyway (as many collectors do), I don't have to get anything extra to
do it. However, if I ever create a larger expanse of water, I'll give
the acrylic gel you suggested a go.
Alexander
P.J.T
hear anyone else mention.
And that is lighting gel. The stuff they use to put over stage lights ets to
get different colours. You can get it in large rolls which are not too
expensive, and all you have to do is place a sheet of blue/gree/whatever
under two layers of the most transparent sheet you can find and it looks
GREAT! You can apply washes between layers if you want, You don't have to
wait for 12 hours for it to dry, and it doesn't get damaged easily as a lot
of commercial "Scenic water" gels do.
Plus of course there is no mess no matter how much water you want, and it
can be cut with a pair of scissors to ANY shape or size.
Could you find something better?
The only trouble is finding the stuff, but most Theatrical suppliers have
it, and a lot of DIY stores can get hold of it if yu want.
TuffSkull
http://welcome.to/weird_world (Weird World Wargaming)
For more Scenery cheats - check out "The Cheaters guide to scenery on Weird
World Wargaming!
<afsi...@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:8f28ih$nmm$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
> A realistic, if somewhat expensive, way of creating water is to use the
> solvent glues used for plastic kits. They're sometimes
> called "polystyrene cement". Get one that isn't too runny.
>
> First you need a base colour. Card covered with an appropriate oil-
> based paint is best. Let the paint 'dry'. Then mix the glue with a drop
> of ink. You may first need to dilute the ink with the runny, very
> volatile kind of plastic glue to get the shade you want, or even mix
> different ink colours together. Then gently stir the thick glue and the
> ink together making sure you don't get too many air bubbles in the
> glue. Run the mixture onto the coloured card. If you want a rough water
> look, tease the surface of the glue with a toothpick. For a smooth
> water effect, just let the glue run level.
>
> When dry, this produces a very life-like water effect. If you get the
> colour of the base and the colour & concentration of the ink right, you
> can see part way into the model water, but not all the way down - just
> like real water.
>
> Alexander
> afsi...@hotmail.com
>
>