Redout Figures was lets please get back on topic
DLCRCF
you see fit. I don't mean to be impertinent here. I just want to ask, is
there anything in particular about that set of 28mm figures that justifies
that price to you? And how much will you pay for a figure of Magua?
$0.00 probably. I agree with you for the most part. However no one else seems
to make females for this period with weapons. So I bought these. That's what
justifies the price to me. Also I bought these sight unseen and if I had seen
the photos of them may not have bought them.
Dan
ps this time I chaned the subjact line correctly :-)
Irv Horowitz
news:20030608190133...@mb-m17.aol.com...
Oh Dan! Can we talk? I specialize in 18th century women and children. The
RAFM Flint & Feather settler women are still in production. One is firing a
musket, one is loading, one is nursing a baby. But maybe RAFM figs are too
small to suit you. Old Glory has two armed women, one firing one loading, in
the LotM Civilians and Provincials bag. But maybe you don't want to buy a
bag of 30 figs to get two women (I'm not sure the price per figure would be
much higher than what Redoubt charges, even if you threw away all 28 men in
the bag). In the Old Glory Pirates Village Mob bag, there are four copies of
a woman swinging a hoe with intent to maim. This is a 15-figure bag, and the
civilian men with improvised weapons are a blast, take a look at this set. I
tend to prefer my frontierswomen unarmed. But if I wanted more to be armed,
I'd buy some unarmed women in neutral, standing positions with open hands,
buy a pack of loose muskets, pistols, hatchets or whatever, and glue them
up. Let me know if you want leads on unarmed frontierswomen, or some
suitable for arming.
What's griping me about the Redoubt F&IW figures is that they look great,
they're right up my alley, and I'd like to buy everything they make. I
probably will buy some of the generic Indian and settler sets at a pound a
figure. But not the Movie Personality set, not at that price.
Robert Singers
> Oh Dan! Can we talk? I specialize in 18th century women and children.
> The RAFM Flint & Feather settler women are still in production. One is
> firing a musket, one is loading, one is nursing a baby. But maybe RAFM
> figs are too small to suit you. Old Glory has two armed women, one
> firing one loading, in the LotM Civilians and Provincials bag. But
> maybe you don't want to buy a bag of 30 figs to get two women (I'm not
> sure the price per figure would be much higher than what Redoubt
> charges, even if you threw away all 28 men in the bag). In the Old
> Glory Pirates Village Mob bag, there are four copies of a woman
> swinging a hoe with intent to maim. This is a 15-figure bag, and the
> civilian men with improvised weapons are a blast, take a look at this
> set. I tend to prefer my frontierswomen unarmed. But if I wanted more
> to be armed, I'd buy some unarmed women in neutral, standing positions
> with open hands, buy a pack of loose muskets, pistols, hatchets or
> whatever, and glue them up. Let me know if you want leads on unarmed
> frontierswomen, or some suitable for arming
First post from RGMH I've ever transfered to my Archive. Tell me you don't
happen to also know of anyone who makes Maori warriors in the same scale do
you? I'd be interested in making a small colonial New Zealand diorama.
PMSA00
loading, a woman w/ bonnet kneeling priming, a woman w/o bonnet standing w/
musket, a little girl running, and a little boy running at a crouch w/ squirrel
rifle. I bought them all for F&I war skirmish.
Paulonious
Irv Horowitz
news:Xns939581A54DE93rsingers@IP-Hidden...
> First post from RGMH I've ever transfered to my Archive. Tell me you
don't
> happen to also know of anyone who makes Maori warriors in the same scale
do
> you? I'd be interested in making a small colonial New Zealand diorama.
It happens that The London War Room:
http://www.thelondonwarroom.com/The%20London%20War%20Room%20E-Commerce%20Sto
re.htm
has recently reissued the classic Richard Houston Maoris:
http://www.thelondonwarroom.com/Lyzard's%20Grin%20order%20page%201.htm#MAORI
%20(These
"Same scale" is maybe a little problematic. These are 25mm figures, sculpted
back in the 1970s and '80s. Some Houston Boers I once saw were very small.
But a few Houston Abyssinians that I just glommed onto are bigger, about
compatible with Old Glory or Foundry. I've never seen the Maoris in the
flesh (alloy), don't know exactly how big they are. The painted examples
look pretty good. I'd recommend you get a few samples before you plunge on a
big order. I'm sure the proprietors at TLWR will work the details out with
you if you email them. They're good people. Tell 'em Irv from the LaceWars
list sent you.
Robert Singers
> http://www.thelondonwarroom.com/Lyzard's%20Grin%20order%20page%201.htm#
> MAORI
They sure are pink for Maori. Full blooded Maori are very dark.
They're also a bit chunky. Converting something similiar would probably
make more sense.
Irv Horowitz
news:20030608210703...@mb-m24.aol.com...
The Dixon figures are great, I have a batch of them too, also their Plains
Indian women and children. The figures are all from their Wild West/Plains
War line, and I think the dresses and bonnets look more 19th century than
18th century, but that's just my nit-picking. Definitely women shooting
guns.
The Injuns came down in a wild yelling horde,
And Betsy got scared they would scalp her adored,
So under the wagon wheel Betsy did crawl,
And fought off them Injuns with musket and ball.
I particularly like the Dixon figure identified as 'Buffalo Calf Road
Woman'. A mounted Plains Indian woman, wearing a classic three-skin dress
covered with elk dewlaps, waving a revolver. Definitely some kind of
two-spirits thing going on with her. Anyone know whether Buffalo Calf Road
Woman was a real person?
Irv Horowitz
> Out from under a rock popped Irv Horowitz and said
>
> > http://www.thelondonwarroom.com/Lyzard's%20Grin%20order%20page%201.htm#
> > MAORI
>
> They sure are pink for Maori. Full blooded Maori are very dark.
Could be an artistic choice. I expect the tattoos show up better on pink
skin. I face the same issues with Indians and warpaint. Realistic warpaint
on realistic skin doesn't show up very well on the game table. I need more
contrast.
> They're also a bit chunky. Converting something similiar would probably
> make more sense.
Let me know what you come up with, hey? I might be able to use them for
something myself.
Eric K
> First post from RGMH I've ever transfered to my Archive. Tell me you
> don't happen to also know of anyone who makes Maori warriors in the
> same scale do you? I'd be interested in making a small colonial New
> Zealand diorama.
Old Glory do a whole range in 25mm, covering the 1840's through the 1860's.
Whilst the Brit and Ranger figs have received some criticism from
knowledgable types, the Maoris are rated as good, if somewhat oddly posed
sometimes. Pics are online:
http://www.oldgloryminiatures.com/colonialism.asp
There is also the old range from Strategm. I recall these did a much better
job of distinguishing between Maori appearance in the earlier versus later
conflicts.
Robert Singers
>> They sure are pink for Maori. Full blooded Maori are very dark.
>
> Could be an artistic choice. I expect the tattoos show up better on
> pink skin. I face the same issues with Indians and warpaint. Realistic
> warpaint on realistic skin doesn't show up very well on the game
> table. I need more contrast.
From memory the trick is to paint the line first in a constrasting colour
and then paint over it with your tattoo colour. Apparently does something
to the contrast. I can find out more if you like.
Robert Singers
> Old Glory do a whole range in 25mm, covering the 1840's through the
> 1860's. Whilst the Brit and Ranger figs have received some criticism
> from knowledgable types, the Maoris are rated as good, if somewhat
> oddly posed sometimes. Pics are online:
> http://www.oldgloryminiatures.com/colonialism.asp
They're certainly more in proportion. Oddly Viking-like in some of the
shots, but painted right that should disappear.
I'm tempted to buy the Hatchets and Clubs and paint them and see if the
local GW shop will let me play Mordheim there with them :-)
Insane Ranter
I'd enjoy reading this info from 20 different sources
PMSA00
Indians Osprey with the following explanation:
"At the battle of the Rosebud on 17 1876, when Gen. Crook's command was
severely handled by Crazy Horse, Buffalo Calf Road Woman rescued her brother,
Chief Comes-In-Sight. Eight days later this same Cheyenne woman warrior, the
wife of Black Coyote, is thought to have fought at Greasy Grass. "
It then goes on to describe her dress in detail. Guess I'll have to pick up
this figure. Thanks.
Paulonious
Chronofus
Guys,
I can't find the start of this thread, so hopefully I'm not out of
line here.
Eureka have a line of 25mm Maori wars figures, from soldiers,
constabulary, and musket and traditional weapons armed maoris. I have
no idea if they are listed on their website, as I got them pre
release.
Sets are:
British Soldiers (5)
Maoris with guns (5)
NZ Constabulary (5)
Militia (5)
Maoris with traditional weapons (8)
Eye height on these figures varies 23-25mm.
Chronofus
www.chronofus.com/wargames/
roly
Maoris. They certainly do make Armed Constabulary and other colonial
New Zealand figures, which are much nicer and generally more accurate
than the Old Glory figures.
estarriol
Ummm shouldn't Maoris be chunky? All the ones I have met tend to built like
brick walls and the men even solider.
--
estarriol
Rob Singers
wisdom
> Ummm shouldn't Maoris be chunky? All the ones I have met tend to built
> like brick walls and the men even solider.
Not all of them but like any Polynesians if you end up in a fight with one
forget the head as a target and go for the knees. :-)
--
rob singers
pull finger to reply
Rob Singers
wisdom
> Guys,
> I can't find the start of this thread, so hopefully I'm not out of
> line here.
Not your fault. Google doen't thread correctly. It use the subject line
and not the references. The thread morphed out of "Redout Figures was
lets please get back on topic".
> Eureka have a line of 25mm Maori wars figures, from soldiers,
> constabulary, and musket and traditional weapons armed maoris. I have
> no idea if they are listed on their website, as I got them pre
> release.
I found them in the 100 club. No photos tho'. There are so many minis
in that list that people here should request to get the number to 100.
Well dressed butler and hill billy grandmother with shotgun to name just
two.
> Sets are:
> British Soldiers (5)
> Maoris with guns (5)
> NZ Constabulary (5)
> Militia (5)
> Maoris with traditional weapons (8)
> Eye height on these figures varies 23-25mm.
<sigh> Might be time to get the missus back to work so I've got some
spending money. Thanks for the list tho'. It's in my archieve.
Irv Horowitz
If it's not too much trouble, I would like. I paint a lot of warpaint.
Irv Horowitz
news:Xns9395EBC68...@202.20.93.13...
> Chronofus startled all and sundry by ejaculating the following words of
> wisdom
> in that list that people here should request to get the number to 100.
> Well dressed butler and hill billy grandmother with shotgun to name just
> two.
Heeheehee. I signed up for Hillbilly Granny a couple years back, when she
was first proposed. But she's a figure that will only sell by ones and twos.
I just can't figure any use for a battalion of Mammy Yokums.
Eureka is just now putting into production a set of 16 different 18th
century civilians. They're not offered on the main site yet, but here's a
link:
http://www.eurekamin.com.au/18ccivilians.html
These are urban types, most of whom look to be straight out of a Hogarth
engraving - fat, gouty old men being waited on by maids who are no better
than they ought to be. No use on the frontier, but they have so much
character that I bought a set anyway. I'll presently be raking my way with
them through Bath or London.
DLCRCF
>musket, one is loading, one is nursing a baby. But maybe RAFM figs are too
>small to suit you. Old Glory has two armed women, one firing one loading, in
>the LotM Civilians and Provincials
RAFM are too small.As for OG it would annoy me to have to dump 28 figures. And
with my luck I would get the bag they forgot to put the females in.
Dan
estarriol
"Rob Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9395EA9F2...@202.20.93.13...
> estarriol startled all and sundry by ejaculating the following words of
> wisdom
>
> > Ummm shouldn't Maoris be chunky? All the ones I have met tend to built
> > like brick walls and the men even solider.
>
> Not all of them but like any Polynesians if you end up in a fight with one
> forget the head as a target and go for the knees. :-)
>
your side!
--
estarriol
Bob Beattie
makes a nice lot of Maori, melee weapons and firearms. Also Brits for
enemies.
--
bea...@umich.edu
Ann Arbor, Mi
Eric K
> Chronofus startled all and sundry by ejaculating the following words
> of wisdom
>> Eureka have a line of 25mm Maori wars figures, from soldiers,
>> constabulary, and musket and traditional weapons armed maoris. I have
>> no idea if they are listed on their website, as I got them pre
>> release.
>
> I found them in the 100 club. No photos tho'. There are so many
> minis in that list that people here should request to get the number
> to 100. Well dressed butler and hill billy grandmother with shotgun
> to name just two.
Brigade Games has a photo of the British regulars in their webstore. No
Maoris as yet, but it gives an idea of the quality. Ask Lon (owner) and he
might have a pic of the Maoris on hand.
Robert Singers
> Having played rugby against them I quite agree, better still, have
> them on your side!
Pity they didn't seem to phase the English team more last night.
Robert Singers
> Eureka is just now putting into production a set of 16 different 18th
> century civilians. They're not offered on the main site yet, but here's a
> link:
Eureka has such cool minis.
estarriol
"Robert Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns939666A43AB8Crsingers@IP-Hidden...
The rain didn't help, but its a vintage England squad, probably one of the
best, saturday will be the real test though.
--
estarriol
Robert Singers
> "Robert Singers" wrote
>> Out from under a rock popped estarriol and said
>>
>> > Having played rugby against them I quite agree, better still, have
>> > them on your side!
>>
>> Pity they didn't seem to phase the English team more last night.
>
> The rain didn't help, but its a vintage England squad, probably one of
> the best, saturday will be the real test though.
While they're a well organised squad they were looking tired towards the
end and I think the much stronger forward pack of All Blacks will make all
the difference. Not to mention Umanga and Nonu distroying your centre
line.
There's nothing quite like a simulated combat analogue that you can watch
while drinking beer and eating chippies.
estarriol
> Out from under a rock popped estarriol and said
>
> > "Robert Singers" wrote
> >> Out from under a rock popped estarriol and said
> >>
> >> > Having played rugby against them I quite agree, better still, have
> >> > them on your side!
> >>
> >> Pity they didn't seem to phase the English team more last night.
> >
> > The rain didn't help, but its a vintage England squad, probably one of
> > the best, saturday will be the real test though.
>
> While they're a well organised squad they were looking tired towards the
> end and I think the much stronger forward pack of All Blacks will make all
> the difference. Not to mention Umanga and Nonu distroying your centre
> line.
>
after what has been a long long season, the back divisions are pretty well
matched as well, Umanga and Nonu are good as is Howlett, but last time ben
Cohen just cruised through you too, The game will be won at Fly Half, like
most games between evenish sides. Its too close to call, I hope England win
but I fear New Zealand will.
> There's nothing quite like a simulated combat analogue that you can watch
> while drinking beer and eating chippies.
Yep, especially some of the crunching tackles, I watched a Samoa/New Zealand
game a year or 2 back and wondered how either team had 15 men each still
alive, never mind standing!
--
estarriol
Robert Singers
> True, I'd rate the 2 packs about even with a question mark over
> England after what has been a long long season, the back divisions are
> pretty well matched as well, Umanga and Nonu are good as is Howlett,
> but last time ben Cohen just cruised through you too, The game will be
> won at Fly Half, like most games between evenish sides. Its too close
> to call, I hope England win but I fear New Zealand will.
I'm not sure if anyone will cruise through Spenser, Umanga, Nonu.
Marshall on the other hand is getting pretty old and slow and IMHO is a
risk. Howlett for fullback is also a weird choice when you have Cullarn,
arguably one of the best fullbacks in the world available for the squad.
Howlett can de devastating on the wing but he's not the last ditch
tackler that Cullarn is.
>> There's nothing quite like a simulated combat analogue that you can
>> watch while drinking beer and eating chippies.
>
> Yep, especially some of the crunching tackles, I watched a Samoa/New
> Zealand game a year or 2 back and wondered how either team had 15 men
> each still alive, never mind standing!
I watch some of the Northern Hemisphere games and wonder how such little
guys survive :-)
Steve H.
scenario... I'll try and find out if I still have any details..
--
--------
Regards,
Steve
IBM UK Wargame Club page:
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Cave/5647/index.html
My web page: http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Cave/5647/steve.html
"Irv Horowitz" <zi...@fuse.net> wrote in message
news:3ee3de39$0$42604$a046...@nnrp.fuse.net...
> "Robert Singers" <rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
Robert Singers
>> From memory the trick is to paint the line first in a constrasting
>> colour and then paint over it with your tattoo colour. Apparently
>> does something to the contrast. I can find out more if you like.
>
> If it's not too much trouble, I would like. I paint a lot of warpaint.
OK Myrmidon who posts in RGMW and also has an art degree says this about
under painting with a contrasting colour.
"The second option would be to do a contrasting underpainting base coat.
For example basing the zombies in RED before painting over them in
green. This complimentary color undercoat will likely show through in
tiny amounts after you've painted the zombie green - which is OK. An
example would be painting an apple on your canvas with Green acrylics
before painting over it with various shades of red oil paint. (The tiny
amounts of green showing through the red would be almost invisible to
the naked eye, and yet cause the contrasting red paint on top to appear
much more striking due to the almost subconsious interplay of the
contrasts.) Even if the viewer's brain doesn't consiously pick up on
the red, it will create a contrast with the green and give the subject
more 'pop' due to the way the cones and rods in the human eye work.
Particular colors in the spectrum tend to push nearby neutral colors
towards the complimentary color to that of the dominate area. This
gives some great results - but it's more time consuming as you're base
coating and then repainting to cover most or all of the base coat."
When we talked about Tattoos and contrasting under painting he said
"Well, you can certainly get some good results with that method - it
would require a very steady hand, and perhaps one of those stands with
the magnifiying glasses on it, but considering how well you paint I do
think you could certainly pull it off. You might also consider colored
techical pens which have extremely fine tips. I use 0.5 mm black tech
pens to write things like "The Big Get Even!" on the should pads of my
heavy weapons marines. :) Or to fill in the tiny details on scroll work
that comes on some marine shoulder pads or vehicles.
As for doing the tattos - I'd suggest at a minimum of doing
underpainting in white first, then if it's going to be a dark blue tatto
- do a bright orange underpainting followed by your dark blue and any
touch ups as needed. As for a black tatto - black tends to be a very
'dead' color if you're using one of the commerical paints. I would
recommend mixing some color of your choosing in with the black so it
isn't total flat and dead. You could do a white with warm yellow
undercoat and mix in some cool purple with your black paint. Again, the
eye/brain might not pick it up but the sub-consious tends to notice it.
With something as small as 'tattos' on 25 / 28 mm figs - I'd recommend
doing a bit of experiementation before hand. Find a piece of scrap
plastic, or smooth wood even, and give it a base coat of whatever color
you're using for you skin. Then do some of the underpainting /
overpainting work with the colors of your choosing (your test patches
don't have to be nearly as tiny or as detailed at the tattos which will
make it easier and faster to do) to see which appeal to you visually the
most. Do keep in mind the relation of 'warm' and 'cool' colors.
Underpainting with a cool version of a particular color and overpainting
with a 'warm' version of it's complimentary color will give you more
'contrast' or 'pop' than doing the opposite. And yeah, I know it's a
pain in the ass to do experiments at times - but it sure beats screwing
up the paint job of an otherwise nicely painted mini. And as one of my
old art instructors used to say "If you aren't willing to waste a little
paint now and learn how to mix your colors correctly - you'll spend a
life time wasting paint later."
Hope that helps you out, and by all means feel free to ask more
questions - send scans of color choices, what have you."
So I'm not sure whether you find that helpful, but I've found a lot of
Myr's "art school" tips about painting to work really well.
Irv Horowitz
> Out from under a rock popped Irv Horowitz and said
>
> >> From memory the trick is to paint the line first in a constrasting
> >> colour and then paint over it with your tattoo colour. Apparently
> >> does something to the contrast. I can find out more if you like.
> >
> > If it's not too much trouble, I would like. I paint a lot of warpaint.
>
> OK Myrmidon who posts in RGMW and also has an art degree says this about
> under painting with a contrasting colour.
Robert, thanks a bunch for posting this. I think I understood about half of
it. 'Complementary colors', 'warm colors', 'cool colors'...sounds like the
Mary Kay salesgal pushing cosmetics at my wife! Maybe I'll ask her what it
all means. Anyway, I think I'll try some of this stuff out. It's about time
I learned a more advanced painting technique than 'block colors in and black
wash over'.
Rob Singers
of wisdom
> Robert, thanks a bunch for posting this. I think I understood about
> half of it. 'Complementary colors', 'warm colors', 'cool
> colors'...sounds like the Mary Kay salesgal pushing cosmetics at my
> wife! Maybe I'll ask her what it all means. Anyway, I think I'll try
> some of this stuff out. It's about time I learned a more advanced
> painting technique than 'block colors in and black wash over'.
Not a problem. BTW Windsor and Newton Chestnut brown gives a nicer result
than a black wash in most cases. If I manage to get a digicam I'll put up
some of my Foundry ACW\Old West minis to show you the difference. I pretty
much blocked in colour, gave it the chestnut brown wash and then went over
particular bits of interest. The brown ink creates the contrast and makes
things looks suitably weathered.