So, if anyone has any hints to share I would greatly appreciate them.
Thanks,
Mike Taber
<m_t...@hotmail.com>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Take almost all of the horses and prime them a light earth color (Model
masters spray). From there, I place a heavy wash of brown on the horses
(varying the shade of brown to create diversity). The heavy wash allows
some of the light earth color to come through (giving more dimension,
and eliminating a dry brush). From there (after everything is dry), I
take a black wash and paint the mane, tale and legs of the horse. The
final touch is placing white marks on some of the horses faces and the
occaisional horse "boots". I paint a few in greys, duns and blacks to
break it up. This is my system, it seems to work well...giving a good
looking group of horses in a short span of time.
Josh (aka Redlokomotiv)
There's also the paint on and rub off over-staining method where you
paint a bright version, whack on a darker colour oil and then rub the
highlights off.
Find some horses or pictures of em and study which bits are generally
darker ( extremities ).
>Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
>Before you buy.
Andy O'Neill
www.l-25.demon.co.uk/index.htm
Liverpool Wargames Association
www.l-25.demon.co.uk/LWA.htm
i picked up my method from a website for a dallas club called the
thursday night irregulars- under the "willie spen" painting methods i
believe-
i crank out 64 horses in about 1.5 hours of various shades (i do all
15mm napoleonics) and then it is a matter of adding detail as you wish-
this is also known as the "oil swipe" method i believe-
as i use the method:
(1) prime white (a must for the shading to work)- i use rustoleum flat
white
(2) squeeze out dollops of Windsor and Newton Alkyd oils onto craft
sticks or any other pallet- colors that i use:
ivory black, paynes gray, indian red, raw umber, burnt sienna
vandyke brown
(3) grab the horse base with a forceps/clamp - load up a semi-stiff
cheap brush wth paint and slop it on, being sure to get into all the
nooks and crannies
(3a) i use some colors plain, i mix others- the red for instance
needs to be cut with some brown usually; i mix often and never clean
the brush between horses or colors, the primary oil on your brush
swamps out residues from the previous application and the subtle mixing
by going back and forth in color gives a real variety in shades- it
does not result in all of them looking just alike-
(4) set horse down - do another, etc- i can do 16,24, even 32 at a time
before the swipe step- clean brush in mineral spirits
(5) put on latex gloves; get a piece of foam (the backing from old
minifig blister packs is excellent; "swipe" the oil off the horse with
the sponge- the relief on the horse will collect and hold oil to give
nice shading effect, the sponge will take off more on raised or braod
flat surfaces- you can control it- take too much off? blot more paint
on from a oiled part of the sponge, wipe again with less pressure- you
can "buff" brighter spots by more pressure- you can use the same piece
of foam on a number of horses before it ceases to take anymore paint
off- this too will give variety in tones as the sponge changes in
effectiveness-
OH- do not mix sponges- swipe a brown horse with a black sponge and you
really get a mess- i stay within a color group when using one sponge
for multiple (3 or 4) horses
(5a) for grays, use ivory black or payne's gray + a bit of black
and buff off heavily within 5 minutes of application- works real well-
whites? i do a gray and then dry brush some white over it
let the horses dry at least a day-
i am minimalist on horses- spend more effort on nappy uniforms- i just
hit the tail and mane wth a darker wash, the hooves with acrylic, and
paint the harness whatever- don't do socks or boots- but the contrast
in shading and color variety is powerful even on 15mm figs at 4 feet-
lamont anderson
ps- you don't live in colorado, do you?
G.
Virginia Bird <vb...@worldnet.att.net> a écrit dans le message :
39EC8BB0...@worldnet.att.net...
> Mike: I have a relatively quick and simple method to painting horses of
> various scales:
>
> Take almost all of the horses and prime them a light earth color (Model
> masters spray). From there, I place a heavy wash of brown on the horses
> (varying the shade of brown to create diversity). The heavy wash allows
> some of the light earth color to come through (giving more dimension,
> and eliminating a dry brush). From there (after everything is dry), I
> take a black wash and paint the mane, tale and legs of the horse. The
> final touch is placing white marks on some of the horses faces and the
> occaisional horse "boots". I paint a few in greys, duns and blacks to
> break it up. This is my system, it seems to work well...giving a good
> looking group of horses in a short span of time.
>
> Josh (aka Redlokomotiv)
>
> Mike Taber wrote:
> >
> > Well, I'm on to the next phase of my current painting craze...
> > I'm now on the task of painting horses.
> > I've a bunch to do (scales are: 10mm, 15mm, & 25mm) - So, I'd like to
> > come up with a quick method for doing this. I have a good handle on
> > doing hooves and markings, but don't really have a good method for the
> > bulk of the painting.
> >
> > So, if anyone has any hints to share I would greatly appreciate them.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mike Taber
> > <m_t...@hotmail.com>
> >
For horses, inks really speed up the process. I'll black prime half and
white prime the other half. Mix the two and let dry. Use 2 different
browns, a bay or buff, and a flat white paint. Base coat each horse with
one of the above colors (lay all the horses out, every 4th one paint a
single color). When you are done, you have 8 slightly different
variations. Mix them up. Wait overnight and let the paint dry (important
if you are going to wash with inks). Next day heavy wash each horse with
an ink (possible leaving a white horse out of the mix for yet another
variation). Say do every third one with Citadel Chestnut (uncut), Brown
(uncut), Black (cut 1:2 w/water), or Flesh Wash (uncut). Let dry over
night. Lots of variations. Next day use uncut black ink on the manes and
tails of about 1 in 3, brown on about manes and tails of about 1 in 4
(selectively some of the lighter figures).
British Crimson is the perfect leather for all of the straps and bridals.
Using this technique the horses were painted for an entire Sarmation army
in 3 nights - 1/2 hour per night (about 250 horses). Better yet, they are
the best looking horses in ANY of my armies
> Aha...
> There was a series of posts about the staining method posted under a
> title "gettin good at paintin ponies", IIRC.. or pretty similar title
> anyhow.
As the author of said articles (Gettin' Good - a primer on painting ponies
parts I - III), you can now find my entire posting on painting archived in
two places:
Chris Wilson's UK website - where he organized my words quite nicely.
http://www.britwar.co.uk/features/
And on my vanity website - still being organized and with the picture
galleries a little slow loading right now - but the information you seek can
be found in the painting tips section.
http://idt.net/^mrtinj/
MJB
geros wrote:
> Follow this link : http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/BREEDS/HORSES
>
> G.
Having owned horses for over a decade please keep the following points in mind
when you use any particular breed as your point of orientation to figuring out
horse colors:
1. Not all breeds call the same colors by the same names - ie a reddish
brown coat, mane and tail would be a sorrel to quarter horse people and a
chestnut to arabian owners.
2. Some breeds are color breeds while others are confirmation ones - ie a
quarter horse with white markings above its knees or on its belly would be a
paint horse.
3. The ways of seeing coats vary from nation to nation - my pinto mare in
America would be called a tobiano because of the shape of her brown coat,
while in the UK she'd be called a skewbald because she was brown and white.
You might want to check www.riorondo.com for a terrific guide to painting
horses.
Hope this helps Jim