Needing to purchase some spray-on metal primer, both black and white,
for a bunch of 15 & 25 mm metal figures.
Recommendations, opinions, condemnations, etc are solicited.
Thanks very much.
Yours, John Desmond
I've been using Testors Flat White for an undercoat off and
on for 25 years on both metal & plastic with good results.
I havesometimes used other flat white paints but don't like
the texture as well. I suppose it oughtn't to be as good as a proper
primer but I like to paint over white so if I prime with grey etc I need
to do the figure again in white before I paint. Starts to get a
little thick. I have figures painted back in the early 70's that are
still doing just fine despite a lot of rough handling.
I also sometimes brush on white acrylic as a primer esp on
metal figures, but it needs to dry really well or it'll lift.
Oh yes I've been using nothing but acrylics for 20 years.
- Ross
Loch Sloy
John Desmond (jdes...@bbs.cpcn.com) wrote:
:
: Salutations,
:
: Needing to purchase some spray-on metal primer, both black and white,
: for a bunch of 15 & 25 mm metal figures.
:
: Recommendations, opinions, condemnations, etc are solicited.
Floquil Figure Primer. Comes in Black, White, and Grey. A bit
mroe expensive, but good stuff - gives a nice, thin coat that doesn't
choke out the detail, and leaves a surface that most types of paint
(including acryllics) adhere well too. Just be sure to give it 24 hoursof
drying time before using it with oil-based paints (like other Floquil
colors).
--
Mark Serafin | "Reality must take precedence over public
I speak only for myself | relations. Nature cannot be fooled."
| - Richard Feynman
Here's another vote for Floquil. The pigment is ground finer
than auto primer or other hobby brands. You can tell the
difference, especially on more detailed figures. Floquil is
the most expensive option, though.
Tim S.
Has anyone tried the following?
Sears Best:Anti-Rust Primer:Zinc Gray (30 66458)
or
Rust-Oleum 'Premium' auto primer: Dark Gray (2089)
I've used these for my 25mm figures and haven't seen any details
obliterated. They may not be as fine as the Floquil primers mentioned, but
I haven't made a comparison yet. I may buy a can of the Floquil tonight to
try it per the recommendations from so many. The Sears Best sells for
$2.49 or less. The Rust-Oleum Premium is around $3.00, give or take 25
cents. The RO Premium seems to stay tight to the details, but the
cap/spray valve seems to clog more often than not, even after spraying the
excess paint from the can!
On another note, some of the 'Satin' paints that are available now in a
wide variety of colors CAN overpower the details, so be careful with
these. One that works for me (example: Crown:Country Soft:Water-based
Environmentally Safer Acrylic Enamel (satin finish):Historic Gray) stays
tight to the figures and seems to be more to the flat side. If you do end
up using any of the satin sprays and they seem too shiny to paint on, just
fix your figures with a matte fixative before painting on them.
It should be known that I use acrylics exclusively (Country colors and
Cel-Vinyl for example) and have not used oil paints so for those that use
the latter, please test first. I've purchased several tubes of
'water-based' oil paints from an art supply store but haven't pulled them
out to use yet. Has anyone tried any of the water-based oils?
Best to all,
Ivor (marek...@aol.com)
It's been a while, but when I used the Testors white spray-on, it filled in
too much detail. I wound up buying an airbrush. It has lots better control of
paint density.
Alan
--YFE
John Desmond <jdes...@bbs.cpcn.com> wrote in article
<5kclqe$5...@netaxs.com>...
> Salutations,
>
> Needing to purchase some spray-on metal primer, both black and white,
> for a bunch of 15 & 25 mm metal figures.
>
> Recommendations, opinions, condemnations, etc are solicited.
>
> Thanks very much.
> Yours, John Desmond
>
I use Testors Model Master flat black as a primer and have not been
disappointed yet(it is a liitle pricy, but I've seen some bad primer jobs
come from cheap paint).
--
-Matt Davidson
V.P. HMGS-GL
E-Mail: j...@your-net.com
In the UK the finest primer I've ever used is White Halford Acrylic
Primer, coverage is excellent! Cost is 5 UKP for 500ml Tin.
(For those of you is the US, Halfords is a large UK auto chain.)
I use 15mm figures.
I've recently switched to using priming to generate shading on figure.
Buy grey Halfords acrylic spray primer. GW white 'smelly primer'
Prime in 2 coats of grey.
Wash with very thin black.
Dry brush with white GW primer over high spots.
Use thinned acrylics for main colours over this.
I've never seen floquil primer myself.
Has anyone tried both halfords and floquil?
How do they compare?
--
Andy O'Neill
Actually priming has more purposes than just preventing reaction.
A lot of paints don't flow and hold well on various metals
and plastics. Undercoating gives a good surface. I like white to lighten
& brighten the colours but also something with a texture that will draw
the paint on and hold it if I apply a near wash of acrylic. I have
tried black with drybrushing with some success but found it was not
to my taste. I have seen some very nice figures done this way though.
- Ross
Loch Sloy
is
undercoats
I use Krylon spray primers available in the US from KMarts et.al. You
get a big can for a much smaller price than specialists resalers tag on
their product. Drys quickly. As with any spray system make sure you do
it in a well ventilated area.
I haven't had a problem with it obscuring any detail on the 15mm and
20mm figures I've been painting for +20 plus years.
DAW
D
I like the gray also, but have recently had some luck using
white Ral Partha primer _very_ carefully. The RP primer tends to go on
a little heavy and slick. Making sure the spray goes on lightly keeps
it from getting slick and gives a nice base for bright colors.
Floquil gray's still my all-time favorite, though -- it's
tough to get it wrong.
--
Robert Crawford craw...@iac.net
Brent
--
"They've got us surrounded, the poor bastards!"
--
Remove the (nospam) from my e-mail address when replying.
My correct e-mail address should read: theo...@norand.com
I think that you are wrong. One good reason for primer is what some artists
call "tooth" that is the way paint adheres to a surface. In my experience a real depth
and realism comes from several thin coats or washes rather than a single opaque coat
of paint. A good primer provides a base for the colors. That is why I refer a neutal gray
for historical miniatures.
--YFE