[GEN] [Minis] Finally, it's... The Mecha Painting FAQ (Second Draft)
Scott Daniel Ullman
Painting FAQ, I've finally done it. Please post comments and suggestions.
Also, there are a few sections that still need to be written, and anyone who
wants to can try to finish them. The sections that still need to be written
are indicated with pound signs ("######")
Section 0.1 -- TABLE OF CONTENTS
######
Section 0.2 -- INTRODUCTION
The Mecha Painting FAQ was created to help people who have little or no
experience painting miniatures. In addition to describing the basic
techniques involved in painting mecha miniatures, this FAQ lists necessary
tools and supplies.
Section 0.3 -- CREDITS
[Note: all e-mail addresses listed below are spam blocked because this FAQ
will be frequently posted to Usenet]
Unless stated otherwise, all text that appears in the Mecha Painting FAQ was
written by Scott Daniel Ullman <sdullman@i_hate_spam.stanford.edu>. Also,
the following people made contributions:
...
...
...
Section 0.4 -- DISCLAIMER
At times, the authors may recommend specific products or brand names. These
recommendations are based on the authors' personal experiences and
preferences, and they have not received any money from the companies in
question.
Section 1 -- SUPPLIES
Before you begin painting, you will need a few supplies. The authors of this
FAQ will try to keep the initial investment at a minimum so that aspiring
painters won't have to spend too much money while they are just getting
started.
1.1 -- Brushes
Brushes are one of the most critical tools for the miniature painter. (It's
difficult to apply paint without them...) The brushes that you will need can
be bought in a hobby shop or art store, or through mail order. Because the
quality of the brushes that you use has such a strong impact on the quality
of your paint job, this is one area that you can't afford to skimp on.
The sizes of artist's brushes are indicated by a number painted on the
handle. For the bigger brushes, the numbers start at 1, and the bigger the
number, the larger the brush. For very small brushes, the size is indicated
by a number of zeros; the more zeros, the smaller the brush. Some of
companies use a shorthand to list the zeros. A number followed by a "/0"
means that the brush size has that many zeros. So, for example, the size
"3/0" is the same as the size "000." This is especially useful for a brush
of size 10/0, which would otherwise have to be written as "0000000000."
These sizes are pretty much consistent between the various manufacturers, but
some variations do occur, especially at the very small sizes. To start out
with, you will need three basic types of brushes:
* Big Round Brushes - This is a general term for brushes of size 1 and up.
These brushes will be used for painting large areas before detail is added.
Buy at least one brush of size 1.
* Fine Detail Brushes - This is a general term for brushes of size O and
smaller. Don't buy the tiny brushes (ones whose bristles are about 1cm long)
because they don't hold much paint and they become curled very quickly.
Instead, buy liner brushes (also called "script liners" in art store), which
are long and thin. Ideally, get a 10/0, 15/0, or 20/0 liner whose bristles
are about 1 inch long and come to a sharp point when wet (a liner's bristles
tend to fan out when they are dry).
[Scott's Recommendation: The Armory makes an excellent liner brush, the 10/0
Golden Nylon Liner Brush (item number ANB-208). If you're local hobby shop
doesn't carry it or can't special-order it, you can order it from WarWeb.com
<http://www.warweb.com>. Also, Princeton Art & Brush Co. makes a 20/0 liner
brush with a thick black handle that helps to prevent "writer's cramp" while
painting. Art stores will usually carry it, or they can probably
special-order it.]
* Drybrushes - Exactly what "drybrushing" is will be explained later in this
FAQ. For now, it's enough to know that this is a process that requires a
stiff brush, either round or flat, and that it tends to destroy brushes over
time. An old size-1 or size-2 brush that has stiff or moderately stiff
bristles will work well. Also, Citadel (Games Workshop) makes two brushes
specifically for drybrushing, called (not surprisingly) the "Large Drybrush"
and the "Small Drybrush."
* Cleaning & Caring for Brushes - Your brushes will last longer and work
better if you clean them and take care of them. To clean them, use "The
Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver," which comes in small round beige
plastic containers and is sold in art stores. The instructions recommend
that you leave some lather on the brushes after you clean them, and use it to
mold the bristles into a point, letting the stuff dry on the brush. (Make
sure this is clean lather!) Because brushes tend to stay in the shape that
they dried in, doing this will help preserve the shape of your brushes.
NOTE: If you are using paints with different types of solvents, such as if
you use acrylic paint but an enamel primer, you canÕt use the same brushes
for the different paints, even when the solvent has dried, unless the brushes
have been thoroughly cleaned.
1.2 -- Paints
Paint used for painting miniatures generally comes in two types: acrylic and
enamel. Most people seem to use acrylics.
* Acrylics - Acrylic paint is water-soluble, which means that you can thin
it with water, rather than having to use a special paint thinner. Denatured
alcohol (i.e. rubbing alcohol) can also be used to thin acrylic paint.
Acrylics are water-proof when dry, but denatured alcohol will dissolve dried
acrylic paint. The brands of acrylic paint that are used most often by
miniature painters are Citadel, Ral Partha, and Polly Scale.
###### Can someone who prefers enamels to acrylics please write the
paragraph on enamels to prevent the FAQ from being too biased in favor of
acrylics. ######
* Primer - Paint doesn't stick too well to metal, so a layer of primer is
usually needed. Primer for metal miniatures comes in bottles and spray cans,
and it comes in white, black, and gray. Most people seem to prefer spray
primers. Commonly used brands of spray primer include Armory, Ral Partha,
Floquil, and Citadel.
[Scott's Recommendation: I use Model Master brush-on enamel primer. I've
found that it goes on smoother and thinner than spray primers, and it sticks
better than acrylic primers. It's gray and has a slick surface, so I
airbrush a thin layer of Tamiya flat white acrylic paint over it to create a
good painting surface.]
1.3 -- Other Tools & Supplies
In addition to brushes and paint, you will need a few more basic tools and
supplies, most of which can be bought in a hardware store or hobby shop:
* Modeling Knife - You will need a sharp knife for trimming and scraping
metal parts. An X-Acto Type-A handle with the standard blades work well, but
many model companies sell similar knives.
NOTE: Always use caution when working with a sharp knife. Wearing safety
goggles and thick gloves will help prevent injury.
* Files - You will need at least one small file for filing down
imperfections in the miniatures. Model Master makes a set of "needle files"
that are the ideal size for this purpose, but hardware stores also sell small
metal files that work well.
* Glue - Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is best for gluing most metal parts.
Super glue comes in many varieties, ranging from thin glue that dries almost
instantly to thick glue that takes about a minute to harden. Generally,
slower-drying super glues are stronger than faster-drying kinds. Hobby shops
usually sell brands such as Jet and Zap-A-Gap, both of which come in several
varieties. It is also useful to have some super glue solvent on hand, just
in case you make a mistake, or if you glue your fingers together (don't
laugh, it happens).
* Epoxy Putty - This stuff is used for filling large gaps in miniatures.
Milliput, which is sold in hobby shops, is ideal for this purpose. Epoxy
putty comes in two parts, and it is prepared by kneading together
approximately equal amounts of the two parts. Each of the two parts is a
different color, so you know that it's completely mixed together when the
putty is all one color. Epoxy putty takes an average of about ten hours to
dry, sometimes more, sometimes less.
One important note: Epoxy putty is toxic before it hardens. Ideally, use
rubber gloves when handling it, but if not, follow the usual common- sense
rules about handling poisonous substances, and avoid getting it on anything
you're going to eat. Wash your hands with scouring powder (i.e. Comet) after
using it, as it's kind of hard to off your fingers sometimes. (Don't worry,
we're not trying to scare you away anything -- We're just trying to say that
this stuff is not Play-Doh, so some degree of caution is necessary.)
* Palette - You will need a small palette for mixing paint. Preferably,
this should be a plastic palette with several small concave areas that hold
paint, rather than a flat palette of the kind that oil painters use. You can
find these in an art store for about $0.75 each.
* Containers of Solvent - you will need these to clean your brushes off and
for other purposes that will be explained further on. If you're using
acrylics, this can be just plain water. Use a container that has a low
center of gravity so it doesn't tip over when you violently swish your brush
in the water to clean it. It is strongly recommended that you use a separate
container of solvent for cleaning metallic paint off of brushes. Otherwise,
you'll get tiny metallic flecks in your other paints, which will all but ruin
them.
[Scott's Recommendation: I actually use three cups of water when I'm
painting. One is for cleaning brushes used with non-metallic paint, and
another is for cleaning off metallic paint. The third is my "clean water"
cup, which I use for washes (you'll learn what that is later on) and other
times when I need water that isn't cloudy from cleaning brushes.]
* Rags or Paper Towels - For blotting paint and solvent off of your brush,
you will need some kind of cloth or paper towel. Paper towels are cheap, but
they are a bad choice because they will come apart when they get wet, and you
might get pieces of it stuck to your brush.
[Scott's Recommendation: I use Kleenex Viva Scrub Cloths because they are
very strong and have the best absorbency. When you wipe a brush on one of
them before drybrushing, it wicks the moisture right off, leaving only the
pigment.]
* Toothpicks - These will come in handy for working with epoxy putty and
super glue.
Section 2 -- PREPARATION
Before you can start painting the miniature, you must prepare it. The bad
news is that this is probably the least enjoyable part of the hobby. The
good news is that it's all uphill after that.
2.1 -- Removing Flash and Mold Lines
* Mold Lines - If you look closely at a miniature, you will notice that
there are some places where the surface is uneven and there is a small ridge
where there shouldn't be. These are mold lines, and they happen when the two
halves of the mold used to cast the miniature were not perfectly aligned. To
get rid of these, carefully scrape the ridge with the modeling knife and/or
file it down with the needle file until it is as smooth and even as you can
get it. Unfortunately, mold lines sometimes appear on areas that have a lot
of detail, and these requires extra care and patience to remove.
* Flash - In addition to ugly mold lines, the miniature might also contain
thin pieces of metal sticking out from various places on the surface. This
is called "flash," and it occurs at the places where the molten metal was
infected into to mold. This is removed in the same way as mold lines, using
the modeling knife or needle file to smooth out the rough areas.
NOTE (repeated from Section 1.3): Always use caution when working with a
sharp knife. Wearing safety goggles and thick gloves will help prevent
injury.
2.2 -- Cleaning
When you buy a new miniature, it needs to be cleaned. During the casting
process, the mold must be lubricated so that the metal will be able to
separate from the mold after it's hardened. Traces of this lubricant stay on
the miniature, and if it is not removed, paint and glue will not stick to the
surface as well. The easiest way to remove this gunk is to soak the metal
parts overnight in white vinegar, and then rinse them and let then dry. You
can also scrub it with a toothbrush using a grease-cutting cleaning fluid,
but the vinegar method will clean hard-to-reach nooks and crannies and a
toothbrush might miss.
2.3 -- Gluing
If the miniature comes in two or more pieces, it must now be glued together.
With instant super glue, most of the gluing will be easy. However, there
will be a few stubborn parts that won't seem to stick together. Just be
patient and hold the parts together for as long as it takes. If a part
falls off, clean of the glue with super glue solvent and let it dry before
you try to glue it again.
2.4 -- Basing (Optional)
Mounting a miniature on a hex base lets you use it on a hex map. Ral Partha
makes metal hex bases for use with BattleTech miniatures. Follow the same
procedure for cleaning and preparing metal hex bases as you would for a
regular miniature. When the hex base is ready, glue the miniature to it,
making sure to alight it correctly with the hex faces. If necessary, fill
and gaps with epoxy putty
2.5 -- Priming
When all of the glue and epoxy putty is dry, it's time to give the miniature
a coat of primer. Whether you use spray primer or brush-on primer, give the
miniature two or three thin coats instead of one thick one in order to get an
even surface and to preserve small details on the miniature. Follow the
instructions for the brand of primer that you're using, and give the primer
enough time to dry
Once all of these steps have been completed, you can finally begin painting
your miniature...
Section 3 -- PAINTING
This is the part you've been waiting for. Painting miniatures can be a very
enjoyable experience, and mastering it may even help you achieve oneness with
the universe. (Even if it doesn't bring you to a new level of awareness and
enlightenment, it can still be very gratifying to show people your
exquisitely painted mecha miniature.)
3.1 -- Finding and Choosing Paint Schemes
In BattleTech, 'Mechs are usually seen painted in either a regimental paint
scheme or a more functional camouflage pattern. For regimental paint
schemes, refer to the various BattleTech Field Manuals or the out-of-print
Camo Specs book. For camouflage paint schemes, look at pictures of real-life
military vehicles for inspiration and guidelines. Also, you can just use
your imagination and create a custom paint scheme for each miniature.
3.2 -- Painting Techniques
The actual painting process involves three steps: putting on the base color,
shading, and highlighting.
* Base Color - This will be the basic color of the area that you are
painting, such as blue, red, yellow, etc. Use a size-1 or size-2 brush for
larger areas, and a 3/0 or smaller brush for smaller areas.
* Shading - Large objects and small objects reflect light differently.
Because the tiny miniature is used to represent a giant robot that is about
200 times bigger, you need to add some exaggerated shading to make the
miniature look more in scale with the "real" mecha. The easiest way for a
beginner to do this is to use what is called a "wash."
In your palette, mix a darker version of the base color. For most colors,
you can do this by mixing in some black, but there are a few exceptions. If
your base color is yellow, use orange or orange-brown as the shading color.
If the base color is orange, use red or dark red. If the base color is white,
use either light gray or light blue-gray.
Once the paint is mixed, dilute it to a ratio of about 1 part paint to three
parts solvent. If you're using acrylic paint, this usually means water, but
see the footnote below. Now, paint this mixture over the base color. The
darker color will sink into the nooks and crannies but leave most of the
raised areas unaffected. This will create the illusion of shadows, as well
as accentuate the details. Allow this to dry completely before applying any
more paint. If the wash isn't dark enough, or you diluted it too much, you
can always do a second or even a third wash.
- Footnote: Although you can use water to make a wash with acrylic paint, the
surface tension of water can cause the wash to bead up as it's drying, which
can make the final result look really bad. Because denatured alcohol doesn't
have the surface tension that water has, you can eliminate the problem by
adding a small amount of alcohol to the wash mixture.
* Drybrushing
Like shading, highlighting your miniature will also help make this tiny
representation of a giant mecha look more in scale with the "real" thing.
Also, like shading, highlighting will help to accentuate the details of the
miniature. In most cases, you can make a highlight color by mixing the base
color with white. If the base color is red, adding white will make pink, so
you might want to add a little yellow as well to make the color a little
warmer. To highlight a green base color, you can mix green with either white
or yellow, or both.
The easiest was for a beginner to create highlights is with a method called
"drybrushing." First, dip the brush that you've designated as you drybrush
into the highlight color. Then, wipe the brush on to a rag or cloth. The
cloth will absorb the moisture from the paint, leaving a thick muck on the
brush with a heavy concentration of pigment. Now, lightly dust the area that
you want to highlight with this brush. After a while, you will notice that
this mucky paint sticks only to the raised areas on the surface. As the
brush runs out of paint, reload it with more paint and wipe it on the cloth
again.
If you want, you can mix lighter and lighter highlight colors, repeating the
drybrushing process, using less and less pressure on the brushstrokes each
time.
Section 4.0 -- FINISHING
4.1 -- Decorating the Base (Optional)
A miniature will look more realistic if the base has been decorated to look
like real terrain. This can mean anything from a simple layer of turf to
elaborate modeling jobs complete with parts of defeated enemies buried in the
ground near the 'Mechs's feet. Any of the techniques used by model
railroaders and diorama builders will come in handy here.
[Scott's Recommendation: Many people recommend using white glue (PVA glue) to
attach turf to a surface. I've found this to be inadequate because it
doesn't hold the turf on very well, and it dissolves with water. The best
method that I've discovered is to use Tamiya clear acrylic paint as a kind of
"glue." I paint it on top of the base and sprinkle the turf over it. It
takes a while to dry, which gives me time to work with it and clean it away
from unwanted places with a wet brush. When it's dry, it's waterproof and
holds the turf on very well. It's also easy to touch up bare spots by
applying another layer of paint and sprinkling more turf over it. However,
because this is gloss paint, you need to spray on a flat finish when the
miniature is done to cover up the shine. (Some people may actually want the
gloss, and it might be good for creating swamp terrain. You could also
experiment using Tamiya's transparent colors instead of the clear, since they
work the same way.)]
4.2 -- Decals
Decals are an easy way to add designs, logos, or identification numbers to
your miniatures. You can buy small-scale decal sheets in hobby shops, and
Warhammer 40K decals are also good for this purpose. Decals stick better to
a smooth surface than a rough one, so it is best to apply some kind of gloss
coat (e.g. Testors High Gloss Enamel) to a miniature before applying decals,
and then spraying with a flat finish afterwards.
4.3 -- Spraying on a Clear Sealer
Putting some kind of clear finish over your paint job and decals will
preserve them, help keep the paint from peeling, and help the paint resist
bumps to a certain degree. Flat finishes (e.g. Floquil Figure Flat) are more
appropriate for military models. However, a gloss coat is more solid,
protects the miniature better, and resists dirt better. A compromise can be
to first spray on a gloss coat to gain the better protection, and then spray
on a flat finish to dull it down. However, many people feel that this is
putting too many layers of paint onto the miniature, and that it tend to
obscure detail too much.
[Scott Recommendation: I just spray on two layers of Floquil Figure Flat.
Unlike many "flat" or "matte" overcoats, which can be kind of shiny, this
stuff is *dead* flat. It's very harsh on acrylic paint because it contains
so much alcohol, so you need to spray it on lightly. (If you spray it on at
point-blank range, the paint will literally melt right off the miniature!)]
Section 5.0 -- Miscellaneous (A lot of room for suggestions here)
5.1 -- Stripping Paint
5.2 -- Other Books and Resources of Interest
5.2.1 -- Internet
5.2.2 -- Books & Magazines
--
Scott Daniel Ullman
sdullman@i_hate_spam.stanford.ude
(Remove "i_hate_spam" and change "ude" to "edu" to send e-mail.)
Scott Daniel Ullman
> After promising so many times to deliver the second draft of the Mecha
> Painting FAQ, I've finally done it. Please post comments and suggestions.
> Also, there are a few sections that still need to be written, and anyone who
> wants to can try to finish them. The sections that still need to be written
> are indicated with pound signs ("######")
[snip]
I would also like to add that if anyone has any questions about painting
mecha or other miniatures that they would like me to answer, just ask. (I've
been painting miniatures since I was about 12 years old, so I have lots of
knowledge to share.) Are there any questions that people think I should add
to the FAQ. Also, I'd love to know if my Mecha Painting FAQ is actually
helping people. Helping people gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling.
BTW, as long as I'm showing off my miniature-painting expertise, check out my
WH40K Space Ork Nob:
http://www-db.stanford.edu/~sdullman/miniature_photos/ork_nob_front.jpg
http://www-db.stanford.edu/~sdullman/miniature_photos/ork_nob_rear.jpg
Brad Carletti
>Painting FAQ, I've finally done it. Please post comments and suggestions.
No probs. I'll do it section by section. :)
>1.1 -- Brushes
>
>Brushes are one of the most critical tools for the miniature painter. (It's
>difficult to apply paint without them...) The brushes that you will need can
>be bought in a hobby shop or art store, or through mail order. Because the
>quality of the brushes that you use has such a strong impact on the quality
>of your paint job, this is one area that you can't afford to skimp on.
Would you believe that when I started painting I *didn't* use brushes?
I actually preferred to use the other end. :)
No, I can't explain it either. I was in late primary school at the
time.
> * Big Round Brushes - This is a general term for brushes of size 1 and up.
> * Fine Detail Brushes - This is a general term for brushes of size O and
I have a Citadel Standard Brush and a Citadel Fine Detail Brush.
Please don't tell anyone ;)
> * Drybrushes - Exactly what "drybrushing" is will be explained later in this
Citadel Drybrush.
> * Cleaning & Caring for Brushes - Your brushes will last longer and work
>better if you clean them and take care of them. To clean them, use "The
>Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver," which comes in small round beige
>plastic containers and is sold in art stores. The instructions recommend
Wow. This is basic stuff? I always just swished it around in the water
jug, wiped it on a dry surface and left it resting brush-side-up in
said water jug.
I wonder if the named Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver is
available in AU.
>1.2 -- Paints
>
>Paint used for painting miniatures generally comes in two types: acrylic and
>enamel. Most people seem to use acrylics.
>
> * Primer - Paint doesn't stick too well to metal, so a layer of primer is
>usually needed. Primer for metal miniatures comes in bottles and spray cans,
>and it comes in white, black, and gray. Most people seem to prefer spray
>primers. Commonly used brands of spray primer include Armory, Ral Partha,
>Floquil, and Citadel.
Mental note: Buy spray primer. Applebarrel White is great but tedious
to apply. :)
Actually a very good cost-effective brand of paint in AU is called
Applebarrel and is just as good if not better than the Citadel stuff.
>1.3 -- Other Tools & Supplies
>
>In addition to brushes and paint, you will need a few more basic tools and
>supplies, most of which can be bought in a hardware store or hobby shop:
>
> * Glue - Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is best for gluing most metal parts.
>Super glue comes in many varieties, ranging from thin glue that dries almost
So just pull the fingers apart before it dries solid. :P
> * Epoxy Putty - This stuff is used for filling large gaps in miniatures.
>Milliput, which is sold in hobby shops, is ideal for this purpose. Epoxy
>putty comes in two parts, and it is prepared by kneading together
>approximately equal amounts of the two parts. Each of the two parts is a
>different color, so you know that it's completely mixed together when the
>putty is all one color. Epoxy putty takes an average of about ten hours to
>dry, sometimes more, sometimes less.
Hehe. I was looking all over the place for putty. I ended up buying
some stuff that takes *two weeks* to dry out. No joke.
For the absorbent cloth bit I just use the newspaper I put down to
protect the table. :)
>[Scott's Recommendation: I use Kleenex Viva Scrub Cloths because they are
>very strong and have the best absorbency. When you wipe a brush on one of
>them before drybrushing, it wicks the moisture right off, leaving only the
>pigment.]
>Section 2 -- PREPARATION
>Before you can start painting the miniature, you must prepare it. The bad
>news is that this is probably the least enjoyable part of the hobby. The
>good news is that it's all uphill after that.
ITYM downhill, right?
>2.1 -- Removing Flash and Mold Lines
>
>2.2 -- Cleaning
>
>When you buy a new miniature, it needs to be cleaned. During the casting
>process, the mold must be lubricated so that the metal will be able to
>separate from the mold after it's hardened. Traces of this lubricant stay on
>the miniature, and if it is not removed, paint and glue will not stick to the
>surface as well. The easiest way to remove this gunk is to soak the metal
>parts overnight in white vinegar, and then rinse them and let then dry. You
Really? It's that bad? If I ever think to wash a mini (because it says
so in the BMR) I just rinse it in water for a few seconds. :)
>2.3 -- Gluing
>
>If the miniature comes in two or more pieces, it must now be glued together.
Question. I've always painted the parts seperately before I glued them
together. I'm thinking of switching to doing it that way because it
seems quicker. Is it a commonly accepted rule that it be done this
way? :)
>2.5 -- Priming
>
>When all of the glue and epoxy putty is dry, it's time to give the miniature
>a coat of primer. Whether you use spray primer or brush-on primer, give the
>miniature two or three thin coats instead of one thick one in order to get an
A thin coat. Damn, that means I really will have to stop using paints
out of the pot. :)
>Section 3 -- PAINTING
>
>3.1 -- Finding and Choosing Paint Schemes
>
>In BattleTech, 'Mechs are usually seen painted in either a regimental paint
>scheme or a more functional camouflage pattern. For regimental paint
>schemes, refer to the various BattleTech Field Manuals or the out-of-print
Screw camo. You're piloting a walking fusion reactor. :)
>3.2 -- Painting Techniques
>
>The actual painting process involves three steps: putting on the base color,
>shading, and highlighting.
Washes rule. :)
>Once the paint is mixed, dilute it to a ratio of about 1 part paint to three
> * Drybrushing
I've never really been able to get drybrushing down pat. Even with
Neil trying to help me. I tend to just "wetbrush" them. :)
>The easiest was for a beginner to create highlights is with a method called
>"drybrushing." First, dip the brush that you've designated as you drybrush
>into the highlight color. Then, wipe the brush on to a rag or cloth. The
>cloth will absorb the moisture from the paint, leaving a thick muck on the
>brush with a heavy concentration of pigment. Now, lightly dust the area that
It seems like whenever I do the 'wipe the brush until there's no paint
coming off' thing I get no paint coming off onto the miniature. :)
Ah hah. So that's not the idea after all?
>Section 4.0 -- FINISHING
>
>4.1 -- Decorating the Base (Optional)
I paint my bases green. I'm extravagant like that. :)
>4.3 -- Spraying on a Clear Sealer
Mental note 2: Buy varnish. :)
>Section 5.0 -- Miscellaneous (A lot of room for suggestions here)
>
>5.1 -- Stripping Paint
>
>5.2 -- Other Books and Resources of Interest
> 5.2.1 -- Internet
> 5.2.2 -- Books & Magazines
Basic colour theory. :)
--
Captain Brad "Digital" Carletti
Stuka pilot, 1st New Ivaarsen Chasseurs Air Wing, AFFS
David Stevens, Arboris Farmer's Militia,
BLR-2C CattleMaster pilot.
"Wee, dawggy! I shot them Liaos good!
Then I shot me some Feds! Dave's the man!"
Kid Chameleon
<sdullman@i_hate_spam.stanford.ude> etched into silicon:
<After promising so many times to deliver the second draft of the Mecha
<Painting FAQ, I've finally done it. Please post comments and suggestions.
<Also, there are a few sections that still need to be written, and anyone who
<wants to can try to finish them. The sections that still need to be written
<are indicated with pound signs ("######")
<
<
I don't know much about painting, but I do know posting :)
You should drop the [GEN] tag and put on a [FAQ] tag, it being a FAQ
and all.
Guess that makes you the newst member of the FAQ Bitch family :)
"If this is all the gods can do, I'm over to the dark side so fast."
Tom Servo
R.G.M. Moderator 0 of 9, the FAQ Bitch
Ken'
Scott Daniel Ullman
> I have a Citadel Standard Brush and a Citadel Fine Detail Brush.
> Please don't tell anyone ;)
Oops, too late. I just cross-posted it to 15 newsgroups, including
rec.arts.crochet and alt.config. 8-)
> I wonder if the named Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver is
> available in AU.
Try an art store.
> Mental note: Buy spray primer. Applebarrel White is great but tedious
> to apply. :)
>
> Actually a very good cost-effective brand of paint in AU is called
> Applebarrel and is just as good if not better than the Citadel stuff.
Someone told me that Citadel primer is actually made by Sherwin Williams, a
company that makes house paint.
I forgot to mention that I've also had good results using Rustoleum Clean
Metal Primer. It's an enamel primer that is available in hardware stores in
the U.S. The spray is much stronger and faster than with Citadel spray
canisters, so you need to experiment before using it. It also takes 48 hours
to dry, but when you put it on right, it gives a very tough coat -- much
tougher than any model primer.
> For the absorbent cloth bit I just use the newspaper I put down to
> protect the table. :)
The absorbant cloth that I was talking about is for wiping brushes. If you
wipe brushes on newspaper, the brushes will absorb the ink and pollute the
paints.
> Really? It's that bad? If I ever think to wash a mini (because it says
> so in the BMR) I just rinse it in water for a few seconds. :)
For paint to stick long-term, you need to clean the oil off.
> Question. I've always painted the parts seperately before I glued them
> together. I'm thinking of switching to doing it that way because it
> seems quicker. Is it a commonly accepted rule that it be done this
> way? :)
Painting them seperately also works, especially if the parts are large, and
it will sometimes make it easier to paint into the small crevices that might
be hard to reach if the part had been glued on.
> I've never really been able to get drybrushing down pat. Even with
> Neil trying to help me. I tend to just "wetbrush" them. :)
[snip]
> It seems like whenever I do the 'wipe the brush until there's no paint
> coming off' thing I get no paint coming off onto the miniature. :)
>
> Ah hah. So that's not the idea after all?
Drybrushing takes practice. You need to use a thick paint, such as Liquitex
medium-viscosity acrylics. You can use different types of paint for
different jobs on the same miniature, getting the best of both worlds. The
best paint for basecoating is not always the best paint for drybrushing.
For the record, I don't drybrush very often, except for rough surfaces like
fur and chainmail. Instead, I paint highlights on individually with a liner
brush, which gives more control. Drybrushing is fine for beginners, though,
which is who this FAQ is meant for.
> Basic colour theory. :)
I think someone e-mailed me a while ago to say that they would write that
section. Was it you?
Dennis Thompson
<SNIP>
>1.2 -- Paints
>
>Paint used for painting miniatures generally comes in two types: acrylic and
>enamel. Most people seem to use acrylics.
>
> * Acrylics - Acrylic paint is water-soluble, which means that you can thin
>it with water, rather than having to use a special paint thinner. Denatured
>alcohol (i.e. rubbing alcohol) can also be used to thin acrylic paint.
>Acrylics are water-proof when dry, but denatured alcohol will dissolve dried
>acrylic paint. The brands of acrylic paint that are used most often by
>miniature painters are Citadel, Ral Partha, and Polly Scale.
>
> ###### Can someone who prefers enamels to acrylics please write the
>paragraph on enamels to prevent the FAQ from being too biased in favor of
>acrylics. ######
I've never tried acrylic on mini's or models, always used enamel.
Also ( I know this is very basic but... ) You should use flat not
gloss paints for more realism.
Also, an airbrush is excellent for aplying primer, your base color and
protective finish ( also for "dirtying" it down )
But good info dude.
SPECTRE
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for
lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759
Brad Carletti
>
>I think someone e-mailed me a while ago to say that they would write that
>section. Was it you?
Yes. Then you asked me to look into heraldry and it rotted my brain.
I'm on hols now so I may have time to do a basic colour theory primer.
Stuff about warm/cold colours, colour opposites, etc. Nothing about
tinctures!
NEil Phillips
wisdom:
>No probs. I'll do it section by section. :)
Looks like I'm gonna have to stalk your post.. ;)
>Would you believe that when I started painting I *didn't* use brushes?
>I actually preferred to use the other end. :)
>
>No, I can't explain it either. I was in late primary school at the
>time.
Freak ;)
>> * Big Round Brushes - This is a general term for brushes of size 1 and up.
>
>> * Fine Detail Brushes - This is a general term for brushes of size O and
>
>I have a Citadel Standard Brush and a Citadel Fine Detail Brush.
>Please don't tell anyone ;)
That Citadel Fine Detail Brush is about the size of what I use as a basing
brush/large areas brush. a 10/0 is a real fine detail brush :)
>> * Drybrushes - Exactly what "drybrushing" is will be explained later in
>> this
>
>Citadel Drybrush.
I use a citadel starter brush :)
>> * Cleaning & Caring for Brushes - Your brushes will last longer and work
>>better if you clean them and take care of them. To clean them, use "The
>>Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver," which comes in small round beige
>>plastic containers and is sold in art stores. The instructions recommend
>
>Wow. This is basic stuff? I always just swished it around in the water
>jug, wiped it on a dry surface and left it resting brush-side-up in
>said water jug.
I dunno about this being basic stuff. To tell you the truth, I jsut use
Vaseline to reform the point if it's ever nesceccary.. but withthe Taklon
burshes I tend to use, it's barely ever an issue (sable brushes seem to
deform more easily)
>I wonder if the named Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver is
>available in AU.
>Mental note: Buy spray primer. Applebarrel White is great but tedious
>to apply. :)
Just make sure you don't prime minis when it's humid.
$3 cans of whatever spray paint from cheap as chips works fine, BTW. I
never prime white anymore, but I use the cheap stuff for black (and
slightly more expensive auto primer for grey)
>Actually a very good cost-effective brand of paint in AU is called
>Applebarrel and is just as good if not better than the Citadel stuff.
Worth mentioning that Applebarrel paint is fairly thin.. teh same company
(folkart?) makes a different line in similar packaging that is think. But I
like the applebarrel stuff :)
>> * Epoxy Putty - This stuff is used for filling large gaps in miniatures.
>>Milliput, which is sold in hobby shops, is ideal for this purpose. Epoxy
>>putty comes in two parts, and it is prepared by kneading together
>>approximately equal amounts of the two parts. Each of the two parts is a
>>different color, so you know that it's completely mixed together when the
>>putty is all one color. Epoxy putty takes an average of about ten hours to
>>dry, sometimes more, sometimes less.
>
>Hehe. I was looking all over the place for putty. I ended up buying
>some stuff that takes *two weeks* to dry out. No joke.
I use 3 different brands of epoxy which take different amounts of time to
dry, depending on what I'm doing. I use the 5 min stuff from a hardware
store for basing, the miliput for general work and the slow drying and very
cheap Feviseal for.. wem.. basically the same stuff I use milliput for, but
the milliput is more workable.
>>When you buy a new miniature, it needs to be cleaned. During the casting
>>process, the mold must be lubricated so that the metal will be able to
>>separate from the mold after it's hardened. Traces of this lubricant stay
>>on
>>the miniature, and if it is not removed, paint and glue will not stick to
>>the
>>surface as well. The easiest way to remove this gunk is to soak the metal
>>parts overnight in white vinegar, and then rinse them and let then dry. You
>
>Really? It's that bad? If I ever think to wash a mini (because it says
>so in the BMR) I just rinse it in water for a few seconds. :)
I allways wash minis (especially plastics) in hot water with dish washing
detergent, and rinse, before painting.
I only soak stuff in vinager it it's really old and has that white residue
on the surface.. (it also seems to work to get unwanted epoxy off a mini :)
)
>Question. I've always painted the parts seperately before I glued them
>together. I'm thinking of switching to doing it that way because it
>seems quicker. Is it a commonly accepted rule that it be done this
>way? :)
It really epends on the miniature. WIth most mechs, I tend to glue them
apart first.. exceptions I can think of would be the backpack on the
griffon and shadow hawk, and the arms on hte warhammer and rifleman (which
I never actually glued on for that matter :) ). Most metal minis, I've
glued together first. And, if you need putty to stick together a mini, you
should obviously do that first.
It jsut takes a bit of common sense.. don't glue on anything that will
obscure another part of the mini.
>>2.5 -- Priming
>>
>>When all of the glue and epoxy putty is dry, it's time to give the miniature
>>a coat of primer. Whether you use spray primer or brush-on primer, give the
>>miniature two or three thin coats instead of one thick one in order to get
>>an
>
>A thin coat. Damn, that means I really will have to stop using paints
>out of the pot. :)
Apple Barrel is thin enough anyhow.
>It seems like whenever I do the 'wipe the brush until there's no paint
>coming off' thing I get no paint coming off onto the miniature. :)
>
>Ah hah. So that's not the idea after all?
I dunno.. I guess there's a bit of experience involved, but you essentially
should wipe the brush till there's no more paint, or at least *allmost*- no
more paint. But it epends what surface you're using to wipe on..
--
NEil (phil...@webzone.net.au)
"Reality be Damned, Innocent Lives are at Stake!"
The opinions expressed in this message are not my own,
but rather are those of Microsoft Corporation.
Brad Carletti
>>I actually preferred to use the other end. :)
>>
>>No, I can't explain it either. I was in late primary school at the
>>time.
>
>Freak ;)
Hehehe. I tried both ends and liked the result the other end gave me.
:) I think it was because I had a crappy brush and so I used the end
that gave me better control.
>>Actually a very good cost-effective brand of paint in AU is called
>>Applebarrel and is just as good if not better than the Citadel stuff.
>
>Worth mentioning that Applebarrel paint is fairly thin.. teh same company
>(folkart?) makes a different line in similar packaging that is think. But I
>like the applebarrel stuff :)
It's the thinness of it that I like. Just recently I had to paint up a
bunch of tanks.
Cut from sprues. Get Applebarrel green. Apply (not even bothering with
a base coat). They look great, like I already washed and drybrushed
them. :)
Scott Daniel Ullman
> I use a citadel starter brush :)
Besides the drybrushes, the starter brush is the only Citadel brush that's
made from nylon instead of sable. Since Citadel doesn't sell it except with
their paint kits, if you need a replacement, a standard #1 "white sable"
brush (which is actually synthetic and not sable at all) should work.
> I dunno about this being basic stuff. To tell you the truth, I jsut use
> Vaseline to reform the point if it's ever nesceccary..
You've got to be kidding.
Anyway, about whether or not what I wrote is "basic," I used my judgement
(developed from over a decade of experience with miniature painting and art
in general) and felt that there were a few "advanced" tips that were really
important and were worth mentioning, such as how to care for brushes. I
think I explained everything clearly enough that nothing would go over
anyone's head.
> Just make sure you don't prime minis when it's humid.
Or when it's cold. I was once using Armory white primer during the winter
(which can get down to a chilly 55 degrees F here in California...) and it
went onto the miniature looking like sand. I've been told that if you let
the spray can soak in a pan of warm water for a few minutes before using it,
the primer will go on much smoother.
Simon H. Lee
line of high-kicking electrons to spell out:
>Anyway, about whether or not what I wrote is "basic," I used my judgement
>(developed from over a decade of experience with miniature painting and art
>in general) and felt that there were a few "advanced" tips that were really
>important and were worth mentioning, such as how to care for brushes. I
>think I explained everything clearly enough that nothing would go over
>anyone's head.
IMHO the FAQ does a pretty good job of fitting in the basic skill level.
After that it's personal preference for the most part. And we tossed
around all those anecdotes for things like paint stripping, but that's
another thing...
>> Just make sure you don't prime minis when it's humid.
>
>Or when it's cold. I was once using Armory white primer during the winter
>(which can get down to a chilly 55 degrees F here in California...)
Heh, a couple of years ago I finished off a bunch of minis during the
winter which over here actually does hit freezing... my workaround for
getting reasonable ventilation and heat is probably *not* a recommended one
though.
>and it
>went onto the miniature looking like sand. I've been told that if you let
>the spray can soak in a pan of warm water for a few minutes before using it,
>the primer will go on much smoother.
Thanks for the tip... also, I think keeping the minis at a roughly
comparable temperature (to the paint) will help too.
Anyway, I put up a few snapshots of what I'm working on right now at
http://www.geocities.com/zulu_reef/minis Probably going to add gold
highlights to each of that Dragon's armor divots--my attempt at dry
brushing didn't go so well since the green paint was thick enough to
flatten all of the surfaces a bit (fun, fun fun). The main thing with the
pics is I'm experimenting a bit with my lighting as well--the base surface
is a piece of foam core board sprayed silver (which I also use as a
reflector for my other photography). The Falconer and Dragon were shot
outside under overcast; the Spectors were done in the morning with more
direct light.
-- - Simon -
ALL DONE! BYE BYE!