--
Scott Daniel Ullman
"If you're not part of the solution,
you're part of the precipitate"
-- Anonymous
Scott Daniel Ullman wrote in message
<199907100122...@falcon.prod.itd.earthlink.net>...
One (or more) of us writes the FAQs--I don't mind if you use my post in it
(in fact, I'll be glad to say a bit more about what's worked well for me),
and I don't think Rich would mind either (might want to ask him though).
One of us posts the FAQs at regular intervals. This could be the same
person(s) that writes the FAQs.
And one of us gets the webspace (I'm already on that).
--Camille.
--
"I wish there was such a thing as a Circle of Equals in real life.
There'd be a lot fewer stupid people in the world that way."
--Ed Behrensen, 4/20/99
No prob. I'd also like to suggest that, since this appears headed for the
full web route, we include some before - during - after pics of mechs
illustrative of certain points in the FAQ.
And, Cam, I think it not unreasonable to assumethat the suppliers of the
craft wares touted in the FAQ (and especially those suppliers whose wares
are _not_ touted...) might be interested in buying some banner space.
"Ars Gratis Artis," say I, but someone may have a cost here this could go to
off-set. And a formally 'professional' environment should be what such a
noble and august undertaking as Mech-Painting FAQ aspires to, anyway...
Rich Kirby
rki...@panix.com
>OK, how about this:
>
>One (or more) of us writes the FAQs--I don't mind if you use my post in it
>(in fact, I'll be glad to say a bit more about what's worked well for me),
>and I don't think Rich would mind either (might want to ask him though).
>
>One of us posts the FAQs at regular intervals. This could be the same
>person(s) that writes the FAQs.
>
>And one of us gets the webspace (I'm already on that).
Since I'm the one who suggested the idea, I think it would be a real
cop-out for me not to do some of the work.
Why don't we write the FAQ according to this outline, or something like
it:
--------------------------------------------------
Section 0.1 -- Table of Contents
Section 0.2 -- Introduction
Section 0.3 -- Credits
Section 1.0 -- Supplies
1.1 -- Brushes
1.1.1 -- Big Round Brushes
1.1.2 -- Fine Detail Brushes
1.1.3 -- Drybrushes
1.1.4 -- Cleaning and Caring for Brushes
1.2 -- Paints
1.2.1 -- Brands
1.2.2 -- Oils/Enamels vs. Acrylics
1.2.3 -- Paints vs. Inks
1.2.4 -- Primer
1.2.5 -- Storing Paints
1.3 -- Tools
1.3.1 -- Modelling Knives
1.3.2 -- Files
1.3.3 -- Glue
1.3.4 -- Pin Vise Drills and Brass Wire
1.3.5 -- Epoxy Putty
Section 2.0 -- Preparation
2.1 -- Removing Flash and Mold Lines
2.2 -- Cleaning
2.2.1 -- "The Vinegar Treatment"
2.3 -- Gluing
2.4 -- Pinning
2.5 -- Basing
2.6 -- Priming
Section 3.0 -- Painting
3.1 -- Finding and Choosing Paint Schemes
3.2 -- Painting
3.2.1 -- Base Coats
3.2.2 -- Washes
3.2.3 -- Drybrushing
3.2.4 -- Suggested Colors for Washes and Drybrushing
Section 4.0 -- Finishing
4.1 -- Decorating the Base
4.2 -- Decals
4.3 -- Spraying on a Clear Sealer
Section 5.0 -- Miscellaneous (A lot of room for suggestions here)
5.1 -- Stripping Paint
5.2 -- Other Books and Resources of Interest
5.2.1 -- Internet
5.2.2 -- Books & Magazines
--------------------------------------------------
The way this could work is people would submit passages for the various
sections, depending on what they feel like writing about and what they
know about each topic. Based on what we receive, we would compile each
finished section. People could also suggest alternative outlines or add
new sections and/or subsections. After a certain period of time, if
there are certain sections that haven't been written, we would post a
message calling for people to write those sections.
The general FAQ for rec.games.mecha should include the URL of the web
version of the Painting FAQ.
If there is ever a need to change the FAQ, like for updating URLs or if
certain brands of paint or brushes go out of business, there should be a
procedure for revising the FAQ. Someone, perhaps me or one of you, could
be appointed the maintainer. Anyone suggesting a change could post a
message to RGM, and either the maintainer could unilaterally decide
whether to make the change, or some other more democratic method could be
used. (Perhaps all of the original people involved in making the
Painting FAQ could vote on the subject, or something like that.) The
maintainer would be responsible for posting the FAQ every so often.
To simplify things, let's keep all posts on this subject in this thread
without changing the subject line so that it won't be hard to find and
keep track of all the posts.
BTW, on the subject of primer, I had a terrible mishap with Armory Grey
Primer earlier today. I was priming a Blackjack (one of those rare,
irreplaceable OOP ones that Ral Partha brought back into limited
producion last year). I had a brand-new canister of the primer in
question, and I shook it for not two, not three, but four minutes, just
to be sure. The weather wasn't cold -- in fact it was about 90 degrees
out. Then I started spraying it on, and went onto the miniature FUZZY!
Not grainy like there was sand in it, but it was like soft peach fuzz or
moss! The last thing I need right now is a Chia-Mech!! Needless to say,
the canister found its way into the garbage can, and the miniature found
it's way into a container of rubbing alcohol, where it will stay all
night. The canistair was probably defective, but I'd rather not take a
chance with another... looks like it's back to Citadel Black Undercoat
for me.
> BTW, on the subject of primer, I had a terrible mishap with Armory Grey
> Primer earlier today. I was priming a Blackjack (one of those rare,
> irreplaceable OOP ones that Ral Partha brought back into limited
> producion last year). I had a brand-new canister of the primer in
> question, and I shook it for not two, not three, but four minutes, just
> to be sure. The weather wasn't cold -- in fact it was about 90 degrees
> out. Then I started spraying it on, and went onto the miniature FUZZY!
> Not grainy like there was sand in it, but it was like soft peach fuzz or
> moss! The last thing I need right now is a Chia-Mech!! Needless to say,
> the canister found its way into the garbage can, and the miniature found
> it's way into a container of rubbing alcohol, where it will stay all
> night. The canistair was probably defective, but I'd rather not take a
> chance with another... looks like it's back to Citadel Black Undercoat
> for me.
That has happened to me before, but mainly with older plastic minis. I just
take a toothbrush to it once it dries. The primer stays on , and the little
fuzzy balls leave.
--
Ian Warner
With falcon sight we choose our foes.
On falcon wings we harry them.
With falcon claws we smite our foes.
And with falcon tenacity we win.
- Clan Jade Falcon Rememberance
Passage 97, Lines 6-9
Andrew Lannon
r...@news.erols.com...
In article <199907130816...@snipe.prod.itd.earthlink.net>, Scott
> BTW, on the subject of primer, I had a terrible mishap with Armory Grey
> Primer earlier today.
<snip>
It was probably bad paint, but I'm gonna recommend (again) soaking the
spray can in a cup of hot water for at least a few minutes before shaking
'n' spraying. It comes out much smoother and finer.
--
Chris "Ken3" Thompson
Maf...@lava.net or mafio...@hotmail.com
rec.games.mecha FAQs are available again at:
http://www.evilnet.net/CoM/submissions.html
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How humid was it when you were spraying? Try not to prime or clearcoat minis
when its real humid out, it really messes with the quality of the job.
I quit using the stuff because it did the same for me. I don't think it's the
paint, because I've had white, black and gray do it.
-Gstealer