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cheap acrylic paint for miniatures?

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Aaron Munn

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May 16, 2001, 10:49:15 PM5/16/01
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I was wondering if you can use craft-type acrylic paint that you buy at
craft stores, to paint miniatures, and how this differ's from the stuff you
get in the 1/2 -1 ounce bottles at a game store. I am trying out some
acrylic white paint I bought to paint some skeletons. It comes in a tall
bottle with a ketchup-lid looking top (squeeze bottle). It costs around 75
cents for a large bottle. I use a small artist's pallete. I'm new to
acrylic (i'm tired of how hard it is to clean off paintbrushes that have
been used with enamels), but it seems the acrylic dries real fast this way,
although it seems it would be much better at dry bushing. I also bought a
few Testors Acryl bottles in specific colors (metallic, wood, flesh), that
seemed to ohard to get hold of in the cheap stuff.

I used to do a little bit of painting with those high viscocity, oil-like
acrylics (I had a Bob Ross book too, all I was really good at was making
trees), so this was where I got the idea from. This stuff seems a little
thinner, the old stuff was a bit inbetween ketchup and toothpaste, and
didn't really flow well at all. The craft stuff, I am having trouble
getting into the crevicecs on the skeleton, but I'm not sure whether it's
the paint too heavy, or just acrylic paint in general (it seems to be very
powdery, as compared to enamels, which seem greasy).


Varl

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May 16, 2001, 11:18:29 PM5/16/01
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Aaron Munn wrote:

> I was wondering if you can use craft-type acrylic paint that you buy at
> craft stores, to paint miniatures, and how this differ's from the stuff you
> get in the 1/2 -1 ounce bottles at a game store.

Yes. I usually use the 1 ounce bottle paints, but all you need to do with the
tube paint is add enough water to give it the right consistency you want.

> I am trying out some
> acrylic white paint I bought to paint some skeletons. It comes in a tall
> bottle with a ketchup-lid looking top (squeeze bottle). It costs around 75
> cents for a large bottle. I use a small artist's pallete. I'm new to
> acrylic (i'm tired of how hard it is to clean off paintbrushes that have
> been used with enamels), but it seems the acrylic dries real fast this way,
> although it seems it would be much better at dry bushing. I also bought a
> few Testors Acryl bottles in specific colors (metallic, wood, flesh), that
> seemed to ohard to get hold of in the cheap stuff.
>
> I used to do a little bit of painting with those high viscocity, oil-like
> acrylics (I had a Bob Ross book too, all I was really good at was making
> trees), so this was where I got the idea from. This stuff seems a little
> thinner, the old stuff was a bit inbetween ketchup and toothpaste, and
> didn't really flow well at all. The craft stuff, I am having trouble
> getting into the crevicecs on the skeleton, but I'm not sure whether it's
> the paint too heavy, or just acrylic paint in general (it seems to be very
> powdery, as compared to enamels, which seem greasy).

Add water if it's too powdery.

One technique I use for undead is to primer them with black spray paint, and
then drybrush them with white. It gives them a good look imo, and you don't
have to worry about the deep recesses, as they're filled by the spray paint.

--
The best interpretation of a rule is the one you make yourself.


Kraig Hausmann

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May 31, 2001, 6:43:59 PM5/31/01
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I'm very new to painting miniatures, but I've gotten a lot of good advice
from my friend who is a veteran, and also from my own recent experience.
The Krylon spray paint is superb. It coats wonderfully and dries VERY
quickly.
Also, the expensive paints at the hobby shop that cost $2 plus are very
good. I have used cheap art store acrylic paints and found that they do not
apply evenly. The "expensive" paints from games workshop turn out to be not
that pricey--especially if you are going to paint lots of miniatures. For
one thing, they coat beautifully, perfectly. There are no bits of the metal
faintly peeking through or problems with runny paint drip-marks. They come
in all the colors you'll probably ever want. And last of all, if you add
water at the right time, they will never, never dry out--so you'll be able
to use the whole bottle you paid for. My friend has some old citadel paints
(Games Workshop) that he added water to and within a week or so, the water
absorbed, and the paints were like new, so he'll probably never have to buy
those colors ever again.
Of course, if you can find a cheaper paint that satisfies your needs, go
for it. But in my opinion, miniatures themselves are so pricey that I don't
mind dropping the money for premium paints. If only miniatures had mass
sales like candy and paperbacks, then they would cost a dollar or less per
figure on average!
--
Thanks for chatting.
Aaron Munn <magn...@mpinet.net> wrote in message
news:L_GM6.73766$ho6.4...@news5.aus1.giganews.com...

Jay A. Hafner, D.C.

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Jun 3, 2001, 1:52:27 PM6/3/01
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Any place that sells craft paints can get you stuff really cheap.
I will not recommend the huge chain stores (because big business is corrupt and
greedy
and their goal is to pay everyone so little that they MUST shop at the 'marts'
of the world).

jay h

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