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Magnulus

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Apr 21, 2001, 6:49:05 PM4/21/01
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I want to get started playing table-top roleplaying games. I started about
eleven or twelve years ago to play D&D, and learn the basic rules (I bought a
boxed set of rules at the exchange on base in England- RAF/USAF, for about 5
dollars, and a whole set of dice for about 3 dollars). Unfortunately, I was
also really religious, and I fell sway to some really fundamentalist people who
convinced me to stop playing the game and to screw up my life for a few years.


So now I want to get into D&D at age 25, or heck, any RPG, but I am runninlg
into a few problems. I am not a very good painter, and trying to paint some
figures is frustrating me. I used to do model airplanes in England, where the
painting was much different, and I used enamel paint. Also, I am really
confused by all the rules (I am not very good at math, I studied humanities and
liberal arts in college), and I don't have alot of money to throw around to buy
lots of books, so what should I do? Also, can I use enamel paints to paint
figures, and where can I get a good overcoat for them? I sprayed a few figures
with Krylon grey primer, but I am a hard time painting with enamels, I just
cannot get very much detail without slopping paint everywhere. I am thinking
about stripping the paint and starting over. It's really frustrating because I
don't much enjoy painting figures..

Currently I run Vampire:Redemption games on WON.net. I run games based on
Evil Dead and horror movies, and also vampire hunting. I really don't know
much about the pen and paper game of Vampire, other than what came with the
game manual, but I have alot of fun. Some of the pen and paper dudes can be
really snobbish about the game, though.


Damon Agretto

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Apr 21, 2001, 7:41:44 PM4/21/01
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> So now I want to get into D&D at age 25, or heck, any RPG, but I am runninlg
> into a few problems. I am not a very good painter, and trying to paint some
> figures is frustrating me. I used to do model airplanes in England, where the
> painting was much different, and I used enamel paint. Also, I am really
> confused by all the rules (I am not very good at math, I studied humanities and
> liberal arts in college), and I don't have alot of money to throw around to buy
> lots of books, so what should I do? Also, can I use enamel paints to paint
> figures, and where can I get a good overcoat for them? I sprayed a few figures
> with Krylon grey primer, but I am a hard time painting with enamels, I just
> cannot get very much detail without slopping paint everywhere. I am thinking
> about stripping the paint and starting over. It's really frustrating because I
> don't much enjoy painting figures..

First off, using figures in the game are NOT absolutely necessary. I
personally find using figures to really help the game, but others have
played D&D without figures and done so successfully. Also, I like the
level of craftsmanship I bring to the game with well painted
figures...but if this matters little to you then you can safely dispose
of them and use other methods.

However, if you do want to continue using figures, I would recommend
switching to acrylics rather than enamels. I build models too, and have
been doing so for close to 16 years, and even there I use exclusively
acrylics. The health benefits alone were enough to justify the switch.
However, I think that you'll find that acrylics are ultimately easier to
use, easier to clean, and easier to produce special effects with. There
are many brands, but I personally prefer the new Reaper paints. Check at
your local gaming shop for availability, or for other lines.

The primer you use is OK. I prefer to use white primer myself (Krylon
flat white...I'll never go back to expensive specialty primers again!)
but the exact color is up to the preference of the painter. White
produces more bold colors, while gray will tone them down somewhat. Some
painters use black because it produces very subdued, "dark" paint jobs.
Again, go with what feels most comfortable.

If you need to strip your figures, I recommend using Pine Sol (or some
other pine oil cleaning agent) to do it. It's cheap, readily available,
and works pretty well. Just remove any plastic pieces as the pine oil
attacks it and will ruin the pieces.

As for rulebooks and learning the rules, if all you have is the Player's
Handbook then that's all you really need. Especially because I highly
recommend that you start out with experienced players before you start
out on your own. Reading the manual is one thing, learning from others
means you'll understand the rules much better.

Damon.
--
------------------------------------------------------------
Damon Agretto
d...@early.com
"Qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum"
http://www.geocities.com/garrand.geo/index.html
Now Building: Hasegawa's Bf. 109G-6 in Italian Service
------------------------------------------------------------

Dr Nuncheon

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Apr 21, 2001, 8:49:46 PM4/21/01
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In article <20010421184905...@ng-mh1.aol.com>,

Magnulus <magn...@aol.comnospam> wrote:
> So now I want to get into D&D at age 25, or heck, any RPG, but I am runninlg
>into a few problems. I am not a very good painter, and trying to paint some
>figures is frustrating me.

Eh, I don't use 'em, really. We use dice, or coins, or even little LEGO
figures. Don't sweat the miniatures. ;)

> I used to do model airplanes in England, where the
>painting was much different, and I used enamel paint. Also, I am really
>confused by all the rules (I am not very good at math, I studied humanities and
>liberal arts in college), and I don't have alot of money to throw around to buy
>lots of books, so what should I do?

Fortunately, the main books for 3e are reasonably cheap - heck, you can
even run with just the PHB and maybe the SRD (online at
http://www.opengamingfoundation.org/srd.html). The best way is to have
someone who already knows help you with the rules, but thats not always
possible.

I'd start with the PHB, and try running little things with perhaps
yourself and a friend to get the hang of it. Or find a group in your area
and hook up with them.

J
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Notice: The above message does not in any way constitute a
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sort. Any commercial e-mail sent as a result of this message
will be regarded as spam and dealt with appropriately.

Magnulus

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Apr 22, 2001, 1:57:18 AM4/22/01
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>The primer you use is OK. I prefer to use white primer myself (Krylon
>flat white...I'll never go back to expensive specialty primers again!)
>but the exact color is up to the preference of the painter.

Ok, thanks for answering. I have yet more questions though.

What kind of sealer should I use. I was at a local craft store, where I
bought the Krylon primer (it was a very good price, as compared to what I used
to pay for specialty stuff). They had some Krylon gloss clear acrylic.

My local game/sci-fi store, even though it's about the only place where I
live, is sort of lacking. They have alot of Warhammer miniatures, but it seems
like their selection of paint and especially primer and sealer, is not so good.
They just have some Japanese stuff called "Mr Top Coat". I used to live in
Oklahoma, and I was better impressed with the store they had in Tulsa,
acutally, event though it was smaller. They had some great gaming shops and
hobby shops in England (I used lots of Humbrol paint- I still like that stuff
better than Testors, but it is so hard to find).

Can I paint acrylic on top of enamel, and vice versa? Can I use just any
gloss clear coat spray on acrylic, or do I need a certain kind?

Also, I went to the local craft and hobby store to check it out. They have
acrylic paint, but they are in artists tubes and bottles, with squirt type
lids. I dabbled a bit with acrylic canvas painting, but the stuff had more a
consistency of heavy oil paint. Basicly, paying 2.20 bucks a bottle for
Citadel paint makes my pocketbook hurt, and the craft store is much cheaper.
Most of the colors seemed very odd to paint a miniature. Is this paint usable
at all, or can I mail-order some paint (that is maybe cheaper)?

Also, how do you get all those little details on figures? I used to paint HO
scale model airplanes, but the painting I did was very simple. The most
complicated stuff was the pilot and dashboard, and there I usually just
drybrushed metallic over the controls and I dabbed some flesh paint on the face
of the pilot, drybrushed any straps he was wearing, and called it quits. The
really hard part was the puttying and sanding. I finally gave up on it,
because the damn movers would end up smashing up half of my models per move.


Varl

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Apr 22, 2001, 11:51:40 AM4/22/01
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Magnulus wrote:

> >The primer you use is OK. I prefer to use white primer myself (Krylon
> >flat white...I'll never go back to expensive specialty primers again!)
> >but the exact color is up to the preference of the painter.
>
> Ok, thanks for answering. I have yet more questions though.
>
> What kind of sealer should I use. I was at a local craft store, where I
> bought the Krylon primer (it was a very good price, as compared to what I used
> to pay for specialty stuff). They had some Krylon gloss clear acrylic.

That works, but you want to watch how thick it goes on. Soft, easy passes. Don't
allow it to coat. Dust the figure only. It'll fill the miniature's holes and
crannies very quickly if you let it. Keep the can a good distance away from the
mini to prevent heavy encasement.

> Can I paint acrylic on top of enamel, and vice versa? Can I use just any
> gloss clear coat spray on acrylic, or do I need a certain kind?

You can mix acrylics with enamels, but ONLY after one or the other has *completely*
dried. Trying to paint either on the other while still wet is akin to trying to add
water to used oil in an effort to make it thinner... ;-)

> Also, I went to the local craft and hobby store to check it out. They have
> acrylic paint, but they are in artists tubes and bottles, with squirt type
> lids. I dabbled a bit with acrylic canvas painting, but the stuff had more a
> consistency of heavy oil paint. Basicly, paying 2.20 bucks a bottle for
> Citadel paint makes my pocketbook hurt, and the craft store is much cheaper.
> Most of the colors seemed very odd to paint a miniature. Is this paint usable
> at all, or can I mail-order some paint (that is maybe cheaper)?

You can't go wrong with Citadels, though. They provide colors those squeeze tubes
cannot, colors you need for facial and flesh tones, etc.

> Also, how do you get all those little details on figures?

Small brushes, lots of patience, and attention to fine detail. My favorite tactic
is to paint the miniature all black as a primer(which works particularly good for
undead), and drybrush the figure to the colors I want it to be until the black
undercoat is only in the deepest recesses. It works good; give it a shot.

--
Yep, it's definitely a PEBCAC problem.


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