https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/18/opinion/covid-cooking-health.html?action=click&module=Opinion&pgtype=Homepage
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How Covid-19 Is Making Millions of Americans Healthier
People are finally cooking more.
By Hans Taparia
Mr. Taparia is a clinical associate professor at NYU Stern School of
Business.
April 18, 2020
Rachael Ray, Blue Apron and Michael Pollan all tried in their own ways.
But Covid-19 has done what none of them could do.
At a scale not seen in over 50 years, America is cooking, a healthy move
in the middle of a pandemic.
Yes, we are using restaurant delivery services more and demand for
packaged goods has skyrocketed. Even sales of the unpalatable Hamburger
Helper are up. But the frequency and consistency of cooking presents a
tremendous public health opportunity.
In one recent survey, 54 percent of respondents said they cook more than
before the pandemic, 75 percent said they have become more confident in
the kitchen and 51 percent said they will continue to cook more after
the crisis ends. Interest in online cooking tutorials, recipe websites
and food blogs has surged. Dozens of recipe writers and cookbook authors
such as Alison Roman, Jet Tila, and Julia Turshen are frenetically
posting ideas and answering questions on Twitter and Instagram.
“I feel like this virus is a conspiracy to make me learn how to cook,”
Eliza Bayne, a television producer tweeted.
“I visited my kitchen on occasion prior to corona,” Kedene McDowell, a
graduate student at New York University said, “now I am one with my
kitchen.”
Young adults are FaceTiming parents to get tips in the kitchen, and even
the self-declared cooking inept are now making oatmeal, at least.
Nearly everyone is making an effort. Cookbooks are rarely among the
top-selling books on Amazon. Yet this week, “Magnolia Table, A
Collection of Recipes for Gathering” by Joanna Gaines is No. 2. The
search term “online cooking classes” saw a fivefold increase on Google
over the past four weeks, and the search title “cook with me” saw a 100
percent increase in average daily views on YouTube in the second half of
March.
This surge in cooking is meaningful, as people who frequently cook meals
at home eat more healthfully and consume fewer calories than those who
cook less, according to multiple studies.
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One of the biggest barriers to cooking frequently is that it takes
practice and time to gain proficiency and ease. That initial training
time has simply not been available to most Americans, as the pace of
life has intensified over the decades. Nor has there been a perceived
need to cook because prepared and fast foods were readily available.
The pandemic has put everything on pause, and almost every
“nonessential” worker, employed or unemployed, is now enrolled in a de
facto home economics course. Cooking is at the top of the curriculum.
The course will be months or years long. Even if “stay-at-home” orders
are lifted, cooking will be the most cost-effective way to eat during a
deep recession.
An increase in the frequency of cooking does not necessarily mean we are
getting healthier during the pandemic. Tragedy and fear are making us
stress-eat, as we drown ourselves in tubs of ice cream or binge bake.
Moreover, with gyms closed and movement restricted, many of us are now
more sedentary than ever. But we are acquiring an ancient skill that has
been shown to help people live better and longer. If we apply that skill
with greater frequency over the long run, it could reduce our risk of
chronic diseases such as diabetes, heart disease and stroke.
A poor diet is the biggest underlying cause of mortality in America, and
that poor diet is largely delivered by large food companies like Pepsi,
Coca-Cola, Chick-fil-A and McDonald’s. Just 10 dietary factors (such as
high intake of processed meat and refined grains) are estimated to cause
more than 1,000 deaths per day from heart disease, stroke and diabetes
alone. More than 100 million Americans have diabetes or pre-diabetes and
122 million have cardiovascular disease.
Frequent cooking could make a difference in outcomes — on average,
people who frequently cook at home eat less fat and sugar than other
people. Most restaurants and many large food companies, after all, use
levels of salt, sugar and fat that would be inconceivable for home cooks.
Cooking as an element of good health is starting to catch on. A number
of medical schools, such as George Washington University and Tulane
University, now have culinary schools or culinary programs.
That need has never been higher, since the coronavirus has been most
threatening to people with food-related chronic diseases. About 90
percent of those who become seriously ill due to the virus have an
underlying condition — hypertension and diabetes being the most common.
Once life rebounds, we may go back to our previous ways, but our palates
will have experienced a reset and our hands would have acquired an
artful skill. Family ties would have strengthened for many, as cooking
is a group activity and is deeply fulfilling and nurturing. There will
be many lessons from the coronavirus pandemic, but we would be wise not
to forget this one. This newfound proficiency could be lifesaving.