Sharpen special blades?

[Janet B]

My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way
to sharpen them or must I buy new blades?
Janet US

[ImStillMags]

There is probably a knife sharpener guy in your area. Check the yellow pages or ask at a decent restaurant who sharpens their knives.

[Janet B]

Not a do-it-yourself project then? For what the guy I know of
charges, I can buy new blades.
Janet US

[Nancy2]

JanetB, fabric/craft shops often have scissor sharpeners who come in and sharpen...You
could find out if they do knives, and when the store will next have one show up. They are
very reasonable for scissor sharpening.

N.

[ImStillMags]

That's a good idea. I hadn't thought about the scissor sharpener.

[Nunya Bidnits]

"Janet B" wrote in message
news:ef8qnb169785fokl9...@4ax.com...

>Not a do-it-yourself project then? For what the guy I know of
>charges, I can buy new blades.
>Janet US

My neighbor across the street started an after-retirement business
sharpening knives, shears, and tools. The people like him who do barber
shears can sharpen just about anything to perfection. He just did six of my
knives. No more chips, razor sharp, durable angle on the edge, nice polish
on the body of the knife. At a dollar an inch it's a bit expensive but well
worth the price. I can keep the new edges in prime shape for quite some time
so it's only a very occasional expense.

MartyB

[Janet B]

I hadn't thought of a scissors sharpener, thanks
Janet US

[Taxed and Spent]

There are sites on line that show you how - really,just the obvious -
take the bottom off so the blade is accessible (for the blender), then
sharpen the blade like any other blade.

[Janet B]

On Wed, 6 Jul 2016 11:08:47 -0500, Sqwertz <swe...@cluemail.compost>
wrote:

>The typical rate for sharpening a meat slicer blade or food processor
>blade is $13-$16. Which is probably a little less than what you'd pay
>for a new blade + shipping.
>
>There are a bunch of low profile blade sharpeners that can sharpen
>curved blades but I have no experience with them. I'm referring to
>this style:
>
>http://www.cutleryandmore.com/wusthof/hand-held-sharpener-and-bar-board-p120344
>
>You just have to find one that allows toy to get as close to the hilt
>as possible.
>
>-sw

I already have a sharpener like that one. I'll give it a try.
This is Ninja
http://tinyurl.com/je7ccvk
It's my excellent device to make snow of ice cubes for margaritas. (I
use it for other things, but you can see how the blades would dull if
used for years for processing ice.)
Thanks
Janet

[Brooklyn1]

I occasionally dress my ancient Oster blender blade, same way I touch
up all blades, draw file. Use a small machinist file to draw file
your processor blads. An ignition file works well, auto parts stores
like NAPA sell them, they're used to file the contact points inside a
distributor cap... they're inexpensive and also make a great nail file
as there are no teeth on the sides. I much prefer using hand tools
for knife work, machine tools generate too much heat so can ruin a
metal's temper. Hand tools also give one more control over how much
material is removed. There's lots of draw filing information on line.
If a blade is not too dull often a piece of fine emory paper wraped
around a file is all that's needed... any hardware store will have wet
n' dry polishing paper, the type used at auto body shops; a piece of
400 grit will be sufficient. If your blade is somewhat serrated or
rippled the emory paper can be wraped around a piece of wood of the
correct shape, often a wooden pencil works with rippled blades, for
serrated blades a triangular jeweler's file works, or a swiss pattern
file.
http://www.listoftools.com/handtools/metal_cutting_tools/draw_filing.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJHvBZSJvcc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFj51A-gdz4
http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Files/files.html
http://bandsawblade.com/SimondsFiles/swisspattern.htm

[Janet B]

thanks Sheldon
Janet US

[Nancy Young]

Very interesting. I have a few pairs that could use some attention.

I found out that there is a guy sharpening knives on a rotating
schedule at my Whole Foods. I got my knives done but I didn't
think to bring scissors.

nancy

[Nunya Bidnits]

"Sqwertz" wrote in message news:fikzr7uz...@sqwertz.com...

On Wed, 6 Jul 2016 11:12:08 -0500, Sqwertz wrote:

> It couldn't hurt taking a knife steel to at least the food processor
> blade. What's special about the Ninja blade? Is that the food
> processor or the knives from the 70's As Seen on TV Commercials that
> cut bricks and beer cans?

>Duh. It just came to me - I'm thinking of those Ginsu knives.

>-sw

Yep, that's the name. Orange handle. it's double edged and serrated. I've
got one running around in a box somewhere. It has a forked end. I think that
makes it a knork.

Wait a minute, I just found it and mine is one of the many knock-offs
produced by the Ginsu craze. It's embossed with "Picam Amazing Knife". The
fact that it's doubled edged with a terrible clumsy handle and hilt is a
major drawback IMO. I can't get good leverage on it with the way I hold a
knife. So it doesn't really matter to me whether it can cut a soda can in
half and still stay "sharp", it's just awkward to use. That's why it ended
up in one of the Goodwill donation boxes during the recent move.

MartyB

[Nunya Bidnits]

"Nunya Bidnits" wrote in message
news:nljifh$qqn$1...@martybkc.dont-email.me...

>"Sqwertz" wrote in message news:fikzr7uz...@sqwertz.com...

>>Duh. It just came to me - I'm thinking of those Ginsu knives.

>>-sw

>Yep, that's the name. Orange handle. it's double edged and serrated. I've
>got one running around in a box somewhere. It has a forked end. I think
>that makes it a knork.

>Wait a minute, I just found it and mine is one of the many knock-offs
>produced by the Ginsu craze. It's embossed with "Picam Amazing Knife". The
>fact that it's doubled edged with a terrible clumsy handle and hilt is a
>major drawback IMO. I can't get good leverage on it with the way I hold a
>knife. So it doesn't really matter to me whether it can cut a soda can in
>half and still stay "sharp", it's just awkward to use. That's why it ended
>up in one of the Goodwill donation boxes during the recent move.

>MartyB

K-Tel, of course. Here's the original commercial:
http://www.ktel.com/classics_products.php?id=161

[sf]

On Wed, 06 Jul 2016 08:55:30 -0600, Janet B <nos...@cableone.net>
wrote:

>
> My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way
> to sharpen them or must I buy new blades?

Are they replaceable? I have the mini-Ninja and figured I'd have to
replace the entire unit if my motor outlasted the blades.

--

sf

[Janet B]

I haven't tried to replace yet. However,
http://www.ninjakitchen.com/
find your model # and replacement parts and see if it is there.
I did try the knife sharpener that Squertz recommended this a.m. and
it does seem to work. The Ninja I purchased came with three different
vessels, 3 different sets of blades, tops and one motor. It's a
pretty old model. I'll work with the sharpener until the blades just
are on last legs and then maybe look at replacing the whole thing.
Ninja is pretty inexpensive.
Janet US

[dsi1]

I'd just try sharpening the blades with a Dremel motor tool. How hard could it be?

[John Kuthe]

What Sheldon said about removing too much material!

John Kuthe...

[dsi1]

I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy.

[sf]

On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT), dsi1 <dsi...@yahoo.com>
wrote:

> I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy.

First you have to buy a Dremel and the drill point. Might as well
take those blades to the expensive knife sharpener and skip the
process.

--

sf

[Brooklyn1]

On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT), dsi1 <dsi...@yahoo.com>

wrote:

>On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 7:58:00 PM UTC-10, John Kuthe wrote:
>> On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 5:56:05 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote:
>> > On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 4:55:26 AM UTC-10, Janet B wrote:
>> > > My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way
>> > > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades?
>> > > Janet US
>> >
>> > I'd just try sharpening the blades with a Dremel motor tool. How hard could it be?
>>
>> What Sheldon said about removing too much material!
>>
>> John Kuthe...
>
>I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy.

Actually that's about the worst way to dress a blade, you'll only make
it worse, you'd end up with a blade all wavey and gauged... if too
cheap to buy a file use the fine side of an emery board, even the
small nail file on a nail clipper would work and use it as draw
filing, not cross filing, and cut into the edge, not away from the
edge or you'll create a burr that will fold over making the edge
duller than when you began. Remember, files cut in one direction
only, lift the file on the back stroke or it's all for nought and
you'll destroy the file... same with a saw blade. Unless you're a
very skilled/accomplished craftsman do not use any power equipment on
cutting edges. The highest skilled metal fabricators would always
choose the method(s) of least risk to accomplish the goal. There
would never be any reason to use a power tool for dressing one or two
edges, power tools are reserved for mass production whereas one can
afford to risk losing a small percentage of parts for achieving the
benefit of achieving greater production. In this instance one or two
parts are involved, so I would strongly recommend using only hand
tools. I happen to be highly qualified in the use of all machine
tools yet with my own personal applications wherever possible I always
choose hand tools with cutting edges. I own a professional bench
grinder but still I hand file my lawn mower blades, and I hand dress
them often rather than allowing them to become so dull as to require
machine grinding... it's actually easier and much quicker than
removing the blades for grinding and than to necessitate removing
large amounts of metal thereby greatly reducing the life of the
blades. In case anyone doesn't know rotary mower blades are only
flame hardened for a small depth of their cutting edge, perhaps no
more than 3/8", then it's soft parent metal... this to reduce
shattering from metal fatigue. So anyone who uses a rotary mower it
behoves to replace blades after about 100 hours of use, before one has
a terrible accident, the mower user probably won't be struck when a
blade shatters but someone nearby coucd be seriously hurt or killed as
though struck with a large caliber bullet... shattered mower blades
have gone through walls. Rotary mower blades typically shatter at
their weakest point, where the center bolt goes through.

[dsi1]

On Thursday, July 7, 2016 at 6:27:11 AM UTC-10, sf wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT), dsi1 <dsi10hoo.com>

> wrote:
>
> > I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy.
>
> First you have to buy a Dremel and the drill point. Might as well
> take those blades to the expensive knife sharpener and skip the
> process.
>
> --
>
> sf

Luckily, I've got all those.

[dsi1]

On Thursday, July 7, 2016 at 6:32:45 AM UTC-10, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT), dsi1 <dsi10ahoo.com>

I've used the Dremel since the late 80's so it's not going to be a problem. I wouldn't use it for sharpening a lawnmower blade - or would I? :)