Truffles: A few basics
Max Hauser
especially fresh versions. The meaning of "truffles" commercially has
widened in recent years, somewhat fashionably, and after encountering
confusion I wrote these notes for reference.
I'm not in the truffle business, nor any other role of advocacy about them.
I have bought and cooked with them for a couple of decades (since discussing
it with Steve Upstill in the 1980s, soon after he created this newsgroup but
before either of us had dealt with truffles fresh); have tasted them longer;
grew up with them (another story). Also my father, a mycofanatic, tried to
persuade me to go in on some inoculated French trees about 1980 in the hope
of adding black truffles to his rural mushroom resources, more on this
below. (He did buy mushroom rights to neighboring land, cheap; and I helped
him inject fallen oaks on his land with shiitake spores at that time, very
successfully.) Here is information from experience and literature.
1. The truffles in the existing cookbooks, in lore, stuffed into Filet of
Beef Strasbourgeoise, shaved over risotto, mentioned by Brillat-Savarin,
gushed about by Paula Wolfert, missed ("truffles baked in the ashes") by
Liebling's friend Yves Mirande (ISBN 086547236X); the truffles of which
Colette, I think, warned that "those who would live virtuous lives had best
avoid them" -- these truffles were the French black truffle (of Périgord and
elsewhere), Tuber melanosporum; or the Italian white (Piedmont) truffle,
Tuber magnatum. Their seasons have always been limited, basically parts of
fall-winter, weather-dependent. They grow in synergy with certain trees.
These classic truffle types are extremely intense flavor and scent agents,
comparable in strength to garlic, and the black takes well to cooking.
(Imagine if garlic were very rare. Its price would go up.)
2. I was paying equivalent to $500 per kilogram for fresh black truffles at
US retail in 1985, and they have gone up to a few times that, on average.
The Piedmont truffles were more expensive. F. Picart cites the important
information, often overlooked, that worldwide production shrank drastically
for various reasons, including world wars in truffle country, from 2000 tons
annually in 1900 to 100 tons in 1980 (half of that from France) for the
black truffle (T. melanosporum). At the same time of course, worldwide
population and demand grew. This is why in the older cookbooks, before say
1950, you often see recipes asking for hundreds of grams, or using these
truffles as vegetables. That would have been already expensive then, but
cost circa $1000 today.
3. For decades, mushroom books have advised that contrary to popular
assumption, certain truffle species appear commonly in such places as North
America (in their usual underground synergy with certain trees, and
moisture) but these often lack flavor interest. The point was underscored in
the 1980s in an episode where some people found wild truffles in a forested
part of the San Francisco Bay Area, made a fuss, imported a truffle-hunting
hound, and were then disappointed when the fungi were relatively flavorless,
very unlike the famous European white and black.
4. In recent years, especially with the prices of the classic truffles,
nontraditional species have been coming onto market. These are much less
expensive and much less flavorful and aromatic, though still interesting.
They include the "Oregon white" (Tuber oregonense, "previously T. gibbosum")
with a pleasant wild-mushroom aroma and flavor, though not clasically
truffly in my experience; and the "Summer truffle" (Tuber aestivum,
occasionally spelled aestium or aestiuum.) The Summer truffle "has a
relatively light perfume, but mimics the black truffle with its black
exterior and its off-white interior." In my experience the interior was
obviously different from a black truffle's: translucent when cooked, closer
to an ordinary mushroom. The interior, or meat (gleba) of T. melanosporum
is distinctive: Light-colored canals surrounding pockets (asci) of the
black spores -- thus "melanosporum," black-spored.
5. Though useful, these newer products are distinct from and much subtler
than traditional "truffles" as the phrase was used in most recipes. This is
important if you look for ideas for cooking them. The name "Summer truffle"
has actively confused some people: it does not mean a truffle of the famous
species, available somehow fresh in summer. It is a different mushroom.
Unfortunately my first few encounters several years ago with the "Summer
truffle" did not use it on its merits, but marketed it in ways very easily
confused with black truffles. (Consumer beware.)
6. Cultivation of classic species. Historically, they were considered
fundamentally wild, incapable of cultivation (like some above-ground
mushrooms). Research on cultivation of T. melanosporum under INRA
(Institute de Recherche Agronomique, France) from 1966, and some success
with a process, led in the 1970s to the commercial organization Agri-Truffe,
which launched overseas enterprises including "Agri-Truffle" in the US and
Australia in the 1980s, selling trees mycorrhized with European T.
melanosporum. (This was the operation that got my father's attention in
1980.) Plantings exist in parts of the US now. (A peculiarity of T.
melanosporum, unlike some other truffle species, is that it suppresses other
plants and weeds nearby, causing a distinctive clearing or "burn-out"
between the trees.)
7. If anyone interested in truffles and food has not read Wechsberg's
little book _Blue Trout and Black Truffles,_ I strongly recommend it.
(Originally published 1953, reprinted in 1985 paperback by Academy Chicago,
ISBN 0897331346, readily available new or used via amazon.com or elsewhere.)
Wechsberg was a traveling food writer who interviewed remarkable people,
including Fernand Point whom he helped to popularize in the US, and Charles
Barbier, a French truffle expert. The value of the book is partly in the
storytelling. ("I'm disconsolate, Herr Hofrat ...")
Hope this is useful. The first few references to "truffles" on this
newsgroup in the 1980s, by the way, were to chocolate "truffles," which had
recently become popular then. As nontraditional species of truffle became,
20 years later.
-- M. Hauser
Rick & Cyndi
"Max Hauser" <maxR...@THIStdl.com> wrote in message
news:11fc0l7...@corp.supernews.com...
> This information refers to the wild mushroom that grows underground,
> especially fresh versions. The meaning of "truffles" commercially has
> widened in recent years, somewhat fashionably, and after encountering
> confusion I wrote these notes for reference.
>
> Hope this is useful. The first few references to "truffles" on this
> newsgroup in the 1980s, by the way, were to chocolate "truffles," which
> had recently become popular then. As nontraditional species of truffle
> became, 20 years later.
>
> -- M. Hauser
> =============
WOW!! Great information Max! Thank you for sharing. That reminds me, I
have some truffle oil in the pantry I need to break out...
Cyndi
dwhe...@ipns.com
Did you know the first truffles in cooking 2000 years ago did not come
from Europe but likely arrived from northern Africa. These were the
Terfezia (especially Terfezia arenaria) which Plato, Socrates and
others were writing about. Apparently European truffle species (Tuber
species) were still unknown then.
Europeans typically equate quality truffles with stronger, even
overpowering aromas. But these are not for everyone. To me, Tuber
magnatum (Italian White truffle) fresh smells of salt water and urea.
Think of a pasture near a bay. Oddly the same truffle put in truffled
oil is, to me, magnificent. A tiny droplet on a French fry changes the
commonplace into a culinary experience which I highly recommend.
More species of truffle are found in North America than Europe.
Many more truffle species are found in Australia than in North America.
Often these species are found growing on the sides of trees in
extremely wet conditions instead of underground.
Daniel B. Wheeler
www.oregonwhitetruffles.com
pennyaline
> Did you know the first truffles in cooking 2000 years ago did not come
> from Europe but likely arrived from northern Africa.
<hack, snip>
> Oddly the same truffle put in truffled
> oil is, to me, magnificent. A tiny droplet on a French fry changes the
> commonplace into a culinary experience which I highly recommend.
Truffle oil on french fries? You jest.
Would that be McDonald's or Wendy's fries, then?
<sorry Hoss, but we dotes on Fry Sauce in these parts!>
dwhe...@ipns.com
different fungi than I am.
As for truffle oil on French fries, no, I'm not jesting.
This is actually part of the menu at a rather pricey movie theatre in
Vancouver, WA that just opened up. And no, I'm neither making this up
nor selling them truffle oil. But Cinematopia does offer dining with
their movies... at a price.
Daniel B. Wheeler
www.oregonwhitetruffles.com