Hygience glueing a chopping board

[Tim west]

An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.

I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.

What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?

[Ed Pawlowski]

Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
choice.

[tiredofspam]

Yep, agreed, epoxy is the best gap filler for this

[ImStillMags]

On Sunday, December 2, 2012 3:32:29 AM UTC-8, Tim west remoove wrote:
> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
>
>
> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>
> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>
> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
>
>
> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>
> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying

Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it? If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it sit for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.

Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for cutting boards.

[Brooklyn1]

Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
the next section:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=44995&cat=1,180,42288

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 09:40:19 -0800 (PST), ImStillMags
<sitar...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for cutting boards.
>>

Cutting board oil is mineral oil. Usually about $1 or so from CVS,
but $9 from a gourmet kitchen place.

[isw]

In article <NLudnRU5StVBDCbN...@ptd.net>,

If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
work that into the cracks.

Isaac

[Doug Winterburn]

I'd run each edge surface over the jointer until flat, then re-glue with
TB3.

--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

[spamtrap1888]

Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
indirect contact as in cutting boards).

But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
obstructions.

http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/lifestyles/family/s_579850.html#axzz2E0JwDyZw

[Cheri]

"spamtrap1888" <spamtr...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2b4073eb-a15b-4b1b...@qi8g2000pbb.googlegroups.com...

========

I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
them. Why would you though?

Cheri

[jmcquown]

On 12/3/2012 10:52 AM, Cheri wrote:
>> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>>
> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> obstructions.
>

> ========
>
> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> to them. Why would you though?
>
> Cheri

LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
to it.

Jill

[George M. Middius]

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

> Cutting board oil is mineral oil. Usually about $1 or so from CVS,

Oh come on. The only thing at CVS under $1 is a candy bar.

I just checked cvs.com and their online price is $4.23.

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" <cher...@newsguy.com> wrote:
> "spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote in message

> http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/lifestyles/family/s_579850.html#...

>
> ========
>
> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
> them. Why would you though?
>

Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
items (and food: the two categories may overlap).

People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
like glue.

Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
emergency surgery?

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 8:48 am, jmcquown <j_mcqu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 10:52 AM, Cheri wrote:
>
> >> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> > filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> > obstructions.
>
> > ========
>
> > I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> > to them. Why would you though?
>
> > Cheri
>
> LOL  I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
> chopping board.

The life-threatening feature of Gorilla Glue is that it expands when
exposed to moisture, which dogs and people are full of.

>And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
> to it.

Vets see several cases each year -- why not ask the owners?

[jmcquown]

That is the assumption, yes. I store things like glue (except Elmer's
plain white glue for paper which is kept in a kitchen drawer) in the
garage. I have a tube of Gorilla Glue in the garage on a shelf next to
some paint, turpentine, plant food, weed killer. Why would I keep that
stuff where my pet could get at it?

> People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> like glue.
>
> Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> emergency surgery?
>

I didn't know it but it's a non-issue for me since I don't let pets get
near toxic stuff. This time of year people love poinsettia plants.
Sure, they're pretty. They're also pretty toxic. Ditto many kinds of
lillies. Hence, none of them in my house.

Responsible pet owners should know all this. The operative word is
"responsible".

Jill

[Cheri]

"spamtrap1888" <spamtr...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:523a2357-2851-4acc...@i2g2000pbi.googlegroups.com...

========

That might be true in your case, I don't know. There is nothing hazardous in
my house that is within my dogs range or reach, same with my grandkids. I am
hypervigilant with things that matter. Oh, and I have lots of Gorilla Glue
on the top shelf of my cupboard. YMMV

Cheri

[Dave Smith]

On 03/12/2012 11:48 AM, jmcquown wrote:

> LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
> chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
> to it.
>
>

I wonder if you could use that glue to stop a dog from licking its nuts.

[jmcquown]

There is this thing called neutering... ;)

Jill

[Brooklyn1]

isw wrote:
>
>If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>work that into the cracks.

Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
wood filler:
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg

[Brooklyn1]

spamtrap1888 wrote:

>"Cheri" wrote:
>>
>> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
>> them. Why would you though?
>
>Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
>out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
>items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
>People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
>like glue.

Speaking for yourself...

>Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
>emergency surgery?

You very obviously never had children, Ptrap.
You are far dumber than anyone has previously surmised.

[tiredofspam]

because wood filler will not work.

it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
and has other downsides.

As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
for advice.

[Doug Winterburn]

[Doug Winterburn]

On 12/03/2012 03:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

All he needs to do is rip it down the center of the glue line on a
tablesaw (or with a guide and a circular saw) and re-glue it.

[jmcquown]

On 12/3/2012 5:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>>
>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:
>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>>
>>

> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
> for advice.
>

Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
sentimentality to become overly attached to one.

Jill

[tiredofspam]

Why not repair it. I repaired my wifes, just like Doug said, I ripped it
down the joint, then jointed.

But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 1:50 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> spamtrap1888 wrote:
> >"Cheri" wrote:
>
> >> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
> >> them. Why would you though?
>
> >Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
> >out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
> >items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
> >People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> >like glue.
>
> Speaking for yourself...

I forgot Brokelyn was a yiddishe mamma.

> >Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> >emergency surgery?
>
> You very obviously never had children, Ptrap.
> You are far dumber than anyone has previously surmised.

Explains a lot about Brokelyn -- he sniffed glue as a kid.

[spamtrap1888]

And how do you lock up the stepstool?

[spamtrap1888]

It's not a question of "keep," It's a question of "use." If neither
you or anyone else use it outside the garage, and the dog is never
allowed in the garage, then you have kept them sufficiently apart.

>
> > People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> > like glue.
>
> > Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> > emergency surgery?
>
> I didn't know it but it's a non-issue for me since I don't let pets get
> near toxic stuff.  This time of year people love poinsettia plants.
> Sure, they're pretty.  They're also pretty toxic.  Ditto many kinds of
> lillies.  Hence, none of them in my house.
>
> Responsible pet owners should know all this.  The operative word is
> "responsible".

Responsible drivers shouldn't get into collisions, but they do.

[Lew Hodgett]

"jmcquown" wrote:

> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.

----------------------------------------------
That's just to simple and low cost.

Lew

[Lew Hodgett]

> isw wrote:
>
> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
> and
> work that into the cracks.

---------------------------------------------------------
Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?

Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.

They fill without reducing strength.
--------------------------------------------------

"Doug Winterburn" wrote:

> All he needs to do is rip it down the center of the glue line on a
> tablesaw (or with a guide and a circular saw) and re-glue it.

---------------------------------------------------
Mix some epoxy and micro-balloons to the consistancy of mayo,
then butter both cut surfaces, mush together with hand pressure,
hold in place with spring clmps for 24-48 hours, the remove excess
epoxy and sand flush.

When the board returns to compost, the epoxy will still be in service.

Lew

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 07:46:41 -0800 (PST), spamtrap1888
<spamtr...@gmail.com> wrote:



>
>Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
>indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
>But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
>filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
>obstructions.
>
>http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/lifestyles/family/s_579850.html#axzz2E0JwDyZw

You feed glue to your dog? Properly stored and properly used, it is
not a problem.

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 3:45 pm, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:
> On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 07:46:41 -0800 (PST), spamtrap1888
>

> <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> >indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> >But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> >filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> >obstructions.
>

> >http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/lifestyles/family/s_579850.html#...

>
> You feed glue to your dog?   Properly stored and properly used, it is
> not a problem.

I'll keep it int he drawer next tot he loaded revolver.

[jmcquown]

I haven't. I have had other people run their cars into mine. Guess I
must be a responsible driver. Go figure.

Jill

[Cheri]

"spamtrap1888" <spamtr...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:12e4fae5-cb65-4108...@jj5g2000pbc.googlegroups.com...

===========

With the same lock that goes on your straight jacket. :-)

Cheri

[Doug Winterburn]

If he has a good tablesaw or circular saw blade, he shouldn't need to
joint the edges.

[Bill]

My mother is still using the Mahogany and Maple one I made in the late
70's. I think it's a full inch thick. She doesn't even remember or care
that I made it, but I enjoy seeing it still in use when I visit.

[Brooklyn1]

On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 10:22:31 -0800, "Cheri" <che...@newsguy.com>
wrote:

Most if not all adhesives are toxic and/or hazardous. I have all
sorts of common household items that are hazardous but all are
properly secured. I use Gorilla Glue all the time but I keep it in a
toolbox. Right on the front label in large font Gorilla Glue "WARNS
to keep out of reach of children and animals, see warnings on back
panel"... obviously Maintrap can't read.

[Mike Marlow]

Because that stuff is just junk.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[sf]

On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:58:42 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:

> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.

Get real. No matter how he repairs it, he needs a vise. Most
ordinary people who don't have "equipment" are lucky to have a hammer
and a set of screwdrivers.

--
Food is an important part of a balanced diet.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 13:57:57 -0500, jmcquown <j_mc...@comcast.net>
wrote:

OK, now I see the problem. The Vet snips the nuts off and closes up
with Gorilla Glue. The dog then licks the glue instead.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 12:54:00 -0500, George M. Middius
<glan...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
>> Cutting board oil is mineral oil. Usually about $1 or so from CVS,
>
>Oh come on. The only thing at CVS under $1 is a candy bar.
>
>I just checked cvs.com and their online price is $4.23.
>


Check this cutting board oil at $34.95 for 8.5 ounces
http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/8789497/?catalogId=6&bnrid=3120901&cm_ven=Google_PLA&cm_cat=Homekeeping&cm_pla=Cleaning_Tools_&_Supplies&cm_ite=Blackcreek_Mercantile_Cutting_Board_Oil_%7C_Williams-Sonoma&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=31-57371170-2

Or this for $9
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&locStoreNum=4647&productId=202500132&storeId=10051

You get the idea though.

[Brooklyn1]

On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 19:36:03 -0800, sf <s...@geemail.com> wrote:

>On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:58:42 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
>wrote:
>
>> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
>> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.
>
>Get real. No matter how he repairs it, he needs a vise. Most
>ordinary people who don't have "equipment" are lucky to have a hammer
>and a set of screwdrivers.

Most folks can find a piece of rope and a stick, and use a tourniquet
as a clamp... that's how I reglue chairs. Most woodworkers wouldn't
use a bench vise for gluing anyway, they'd much more likely use
parallel clamps rather than tie up the vise for many hours.

[isw]

In article <3j6qb85ohr5ssn562...@4ax.com>,

Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:

> isw wrote:
> >
> >If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> >that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> >resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
> >work that into the cracks.
>
> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> wood filler:

Because I've used both, and I know which one is both easier and more
durable.

Isaac

[isw]

In article <50bd3932$0$54486$c3e8da3$6901...@news.astraweb.com>,

"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote:

> > isw wrote:
> >
> > If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> > that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> > resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
> > and
> > work that into the cracks.
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?
>
> Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.
>
> They fill without reducing strength.

Not only do they fill, but they also *fill up* -- at least, the ones
where their tops wear off do, because they are hollow. How do you clean
out the food residue (and resulting live stuff) that then gets in there?

Isaac

[isw]

In article
<fd2ff503-84bd-49b9...@jj5g2000pbc.googlegroups.com>,
spamtrap1888 <spamtr...@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Dec 3, 8:48 am, jmcquown <j_mcqu...@comcast.net> wrote:

> > On 12/3/2012 10:52 AM, Cheri wrote:
> >
> > >> >Tim west remoove wrote:
> >
> > > But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> > > filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> > > obstructions.
> >

> > > ========
> >
> > > I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> > > to them. Why would you though?
> >

> > > Cheri

> >
> > LOL  I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
> > chopping board.
>

> The life-threatening feature of Gorilla Glue is that it expands when
> exposed to moisture, which dogs and people are full of.

I think more likely because G-G is a urethane, and that stuff sticks to
*everything*, including flesh. Incidentally, it contains cyanide, but
that's only a problem until it sets; then it's nearly non-toxic.

Isaac

[CW]

"Brooklyn1" wrote in message
news:1cuqb8dt13mrq8j8t...@4ax.com...

===================================================================================
Two boards as fences and wedges work well also.

[Mike Marlow]

Soap and water.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[Jim Elbrecht]

I'll bet she remembers. I'm using a board my dad cut for my sister
who painted a design on the back. It was a mother's day present in
the early 60's. The design is nearly gone-- but sis burned her
initials in it. I should probably wrap it up and give it one of her
grandchildren. Nah-- I like it.

Jim

[Dave Balderstone]

In article <k9fe8k$a04$1...@dont-email.me>, Tim west

<timedream95(remoove)@gmail.com> wrote:

> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying

> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?

I'd rip it along the seam, lose 1/8" of width, and re-glue it rather
than trying to fill the gap.

djb

--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx

[B. Server]

On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:04:09 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:

>On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>>

>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:

>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>>
>because wood filler will not work.
>
>it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
>and has other downsides.

>
>As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
>equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
>for advice.
>

And like most such posts, the OP asks a question and then tells us
that he has already done something. In his case, gluing with PVA;
which is a very poor choice for something that will be moist. The
board was most likely originally glued with either aliphatic resin
glue (Titebond II for example) or a heat cured phenol-formaldahyde
resin. Once you put PVA on the gap, you are screwed as nothing else
will stick to it and it is very difficult to remove without tools.

Since the OP was apparently concerned with hygiene, non of the
solutions offered are likely to fill the crack, not be moisture
absorbant, and stay pu.

Titebond II is FDA approved for indirect food use (cutting boards) and
essentially weatherproof. Like many things, you probably should not
feed it to your dogs either.

[Lew Hodgett]

Lew Hodgett wrote:
---------------------------------------------------------
> Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?
>
> Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.
>
> They fill without reducing strength.

---------------------------------------------------------

isw wrote:

> Not only do they fill, but they also *fill up* -- at least, the ones
> where their tops wear off do, because they are hollow. How do you
> clean
> out the food residue (and resulting live stuff) that then gets in
> there?

--------------------------------------------------------
Those must be some very LARGE balloons you are using.

What did you have in mind?

Might want to consider soap and water.

BTW, what are the particle sizes of the saw dust you suggest using.
Think you might have a real sanitary issue as compared to
micro-balloons.


Lew

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 4, 7:55 am, B. Server <Bser...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:04:09 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> >> isw wrote:
>
> >>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> >>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> >>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
> >>> work that into the cracks.
>
> >> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> >> wood filler:
> >>http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69

> >>http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-pe...

>
> >because wood filler will not work.
>
> >it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
> >and has other downsides.
>
> >As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
> >equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
> >for advice.
>
> And like most such posts, the OP asks a question and then tells us
> that he has already done something.  In his case, gluing with PVA;
> which is a very poor choice for something that will be moist.  The
> board was most likely originally glued with either aliphatic resin
> glue (Titebond II for example) or a heat cured phenol-formaldahyde
> resin.  Once you put PVA on the gap, you are screwed as nothing else
> will stick to it and it is very difficult to remove without tools.
>
> Since the OP was apparently concerned with hygiene, non of the
> solutions offered are likely to fill the crack, not be moisture
> absorbant, and stay pu.
>
> Titebond II is FDA approved for indirect food use (cutting boards) and
> essentially weatherproof.  Like many things, you probably should not
> feed it to your dogs either.

Funnily enough, the manufacturer says Titebond II is a non-toxic, PVA
emulsion glue:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/msds/165021-Titebond-II-16oz.pdf

Is there more than one Titebond II?

[Brooklyn1]

So does the weight of a cement block. There are many ways to apply
pressure for gluing, with small odd shaped items rubberbands work very
well... spring clothespins work in many instances too. The point is
that serious wood workers don't do any gluing on their workbench or
with their carpenter's bench vise... invariably glue oozes and makes a
difficult to remove mess. I still remember back in JHS woodworking
class one wise ass glued all the wood jawed bench vises shut.

[Brooklyn1]

Yeah, all those huge corporations make wood filler by the freight
train car loads as a joke... and all you can do is flap your lying
gums... next you're at the big box hardware stores check out the wood
filler, from two ounce tubes to five gallon buckets... professional
cabinet making shops buy those buckets by the pallet, and naturally
they have money and labor to waste, according you idiots like you.
Plastic Wood and other commercial wood fillers IS sawdust with epoxy,
dummy!

[isw]

In article <u9hsb8hlt8h0q0q20...@4ax.com>,

A few of them use a polyester material (very characteristic smell -- not
like epoxy), and you can recognize them because they come with a
catalyst you have to mix in. Most wood fillers just use a solvent-based
glue (another very characteristic odor), and don't adhere as well to
wood as epoxies do, plus, they shrink as the solvent evaporates.

Isaac

[B. Server]

On Tue, 4 Dec 2012 10:30:15 -0800 (PST), spamtrap1888
<spamtr...@gmail.com> wrote:

[...]

>>
>> And like most such posts, the OP asks a question and then tells us
>> that he has already done something.  In his case, gluing with PVA;
>> which is a very poor choice for something that will be moist.  The
>> board was most likely originally glued with either aliphatic resin
>> glue (Titebond II for example) or a heat cured phenol-formaldahyde
>> resin.  Once you put PVA on the gap, you are screwed as nothing else
>> will stick to it and it is very difficult to remove without tools.
>>
>> Since the OP was apparently concerned with hygiene, non of the
>> solutions offered are likely to fill the crack, not be moisture
>> absorbant, and stay pu.
>>
>> Titebond II is FDA approved for indirect food use (cutting boards) and
>> essentially weatherproof.  Like many things, you probably should not
>> feed it to your dogs either.
>
>Funnily enough, the manufacturer says Titebond II is a non-toxic, PVA
>emulsion glue:
>
>http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/msds/165021-Titebond-II-16oz.pdf
>
>Is there more than one Titebond II?

There is some confusion, possibly mine. The OP said "white glue"
which, until recently was most commonly a casein-based glue with the
disadvantages I mentioned. Prompted by your response, I checked the
Titebond site and discovered that Titebond is now (the MSDS is dated
in the first quarter of 2012) making a WHITE PVA. It is possible
that the OP used this white glue. However, the applications notes and
limitations published by Titebond suggest that the white PVA should
not be used outdoors or in contact with moisture. Titebond II is
described in the relevant MSDS as crosslinked PVA and is safe for
indirect food uses such as cutting boards as well as weather and water
resistant. It also creeps less than the older PVA glues if you are
using it under shear stress. All told, the poster who suggested
ripping the joint and regluing is certainly correct, assuming that the
OP has the tools with which to do it. (in which case he probably would
not have been asking...)

I wonder where in this thread the OP gave up and went shopping?

[George M. Middius]

tiredofspam wrote:

> >> Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and work that into the cracks.

> > Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> > wood filler:

> > http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
> > http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg

> because wood filler will not work.
> it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
> and has other downsides.

Quite right. Epoxy is the obvious choice -- just give it time to cure.
If, for some reason, you can't find epoxy, go in search of a
polyurethane resin. It's an industrial product and its fumes will kill
your children and pets.

[George M. Middius]

sf wrote:

> > But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
> > But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.
>
> Get real. No matter how he repairs it, he needs a vise.

A vise? No, bar clamps.

[George M. Middius]

Lew Hodgett wrote:

> > Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
> > sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
> ----------------------------------------------

> That's just to[sic] simple and low cost.

Maybe the board in question is large and would be expensive to
replace.

[Brooklyn1]

George M. Middius wrote:
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>> > Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
>> > sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
>>

>> That's just to[sic] simple and low cost.
>
>Maybe the board in question is large and would be expensive to
>replace.

The average home wood kitchen board costs like $10... but I'd attempt
to repair even a small board if only for the challenge... a couple
dabs of glue is no big investment. And if not used within its
relatively short shelf life glues become unusable so if ya got it may
as well use it before it goes bad.

[Brooklyn1]

Making ones own wood filler is a waste of time and effort. The only
reason commercial wood fillers fail is because people do not properly
prepare the surface... home made will fail as well. Using wood filler
is is like welding metal, if the surfaces are properly prepped and the
rest of the directions are followed the joint becomes the strongest
part. People who say commercial wood filler fails it's only because
they don't know what they are doing, most likely illiterates who can't
read the directions. Making ones own wood filler when commercial wood
fillers are readily available is tantamount to making ones own house
paint.

[J. Clarke]

In article <50bd3932$0$54486$c3e8da3$6901...@news.astraweb.com>,
sails...@verizon.net says...

>
> > isw wrote:
> >
> > If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> > that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a

> > resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,

> > and
> > work that into the cracks.

> ---------------------------------------------------------
> Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?
>
> Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.
>
> They fill without reducing strength.

Do they match the color of the wood like dust from the same piece does?