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Curly walnut and maple canister...
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Kevin Miller
Feb 4, 2012, 4:31:21 PM2/4/12
to
Finished a couple more pieces last week. They can be seen over in
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking or on my facebook page (no facebook
membership required).
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2408353294547.2110249.1422642899&type=1&l=25f82bf4ef
The walnut had some end checking which I filled that with brass shavings
and CA glue. I tend to "enhance" defects to turn them into accent
details rather than try to hide them with wood filler or sawdust. That
never seems to work for me.
One thing that's always bugged me about using superglue for cracks is it
runs so freely that you get a slight variance in the sheen when you
finish it. This time around I applied a coat of shellac before using
the CA glue. Shellac dries fast, and filled the pores so any wayward CA
was on the surface, not in the wood. After the shellac was dry I
applied the CA to the brass filling, then made a couple of finish cuts
to even everything out, sanded to 600 and applied the final shellac
finish coats. Worked pretty well. Should have tried it years ago!
The maple piece is finished with Minwax Tung Oil Finish...
...Kevin
--
Kevin Miller - http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
In a recent survey, 7 out of 10 hard drives preferred Linux
Registered Linux User No: 307357, http://linuxcounter.net
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking or on my facebook page (no facebook
membership required).
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2408353294547.2110249.1422642899&type=1&l=25f82bf4ef
The walnut had some end checking which I filled that with brass shavings
and CA glue. I tend to "enhance" defects to turn them into accent
details rather than try to hide them with wood filler or sawdust. That
never seems to work for me.
One thing that's always bugged me about using superglue for cracks is it
runs so freely that you get a slight variance in the sheen when you
finish it. This time around I applied a coat of shellac before using
the CA glue. Shellac dries fast, and filled the pores so any wayward CA
was on the surface, not in the wood. After the shellac was dry I
applied the CA to the brass filling, then made a couple of finish cuts
to even everything out, sanded to 600 and applied the final shellac
finish coats. Worked pretty well. Should have tried it years ago!
The maple piece is finished with Minwax Tung Oil Finish...
...Kevin
--
Kevin Miller - http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
In a recent survey, 7 out of 10 hard drives preferred Linux
Registered Linux User No: 307357, http://linuxcounter.net
Gerald Ross
Feb 4, 2012, 5:56:17 PM2/4/12
to
Kevin Miller wrote:
> Finished a couple more pieces last week. They can be seen over in
> alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking or on my facebook page (no facebook
> membership required).
>
> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2408353294547.2110249.1422642899&type=1&l=25f82bf4ef
>
> The walnut had some end checking which I filled that with brass shavings
> and CA glue. I tend to "enhance" defects to turn them into accent
> details rather than try to hide them with wood filler or sawdust. That
> never seems to work for me.
>
> One thing that's always bugged me about using superglue for cracks is it
> runs so freely that you get a slight variance in the sheen when you
> finish it. This time around I applied a coat of shellac before using
> the CA glue. Shellac dries fast, and filled the pores so any wayward CA
> was on the surface, not in the wood. After the shellac was dry I
> applied the CA to the brass filling, then made a couple of finish cuts
> to even everything out, sanded to 600 and applied the final shellac
> finish coats. Worked pretty well. Should have tried it years ago!
>
> The maple piece is finished with Minwax Tung Oil Finish...
>
> ...Kevin
Before I fill a crack with CA, I take a white wax crayon and apply to
> Finished a couple more pieces last week. They can be seen over in
> alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking or on my facebook page (no facebook
> membership required).
>
> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2408353294547.2110249.1422642899&type=1&l=25f82bf4ef
>
> The walnut had some end checking which I filled that with brass shavings
> and CA glue. I tend to "enhance" defects to turn them into accent
> details rather than try to hide them with wood filler or sawdust. That
> never seems to work for me.
>
> One thing that's always bugged me about using superglue for cracks is it
> runs so freely that you get a slight variance in the sheen when you
> finish it. This time around I applied a coat of shellac before using
> the CA glue. Shellac dries fast, and filled the pores so any wayward CA
> was on the surface, not in the wood. After the shellac was dry I
> applied the CA to the brass filling, then made a couple of finish cuts
> to even everything out, sanded to 600 and applied the final shellac
> finish coats. Worked pretty well. Should have tried it years ago!
>
> The maple piece is finished with Minwax Tung Oil Finish...
>
> ...Kevin
the end and both sides of the crack. It does the same as the shellac
and is ready to use instantly.
Larger voids and knot holes I fill with epoxy, adding a drop of black
dye to the mix and add turquoise pieces and brass clippings.
Love the canisters.
--
Gerald Ross
Ah! Now I remember. I have a GOOD
memory, it's just SHORT!
Kevin Miller
Feb 4, 2012, 7:59:45 PM2/4/12
to
On 02/04/2012 01:56 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
> Before I fill a crack with CA, I take a white wax crayon and apply to
> the end and both sides of the crack. It does the same as the shellac and
> is ready to use instantly.
>
> Larger voids and knot holes I fill with epoxy, adding a drop of black
> dye to the mix and add turquoise pieces and brass clippings.
Crayon's as in kids crayons? Think I'll give that a try. Cheap, easy
> Before I fill a crack with CA, I take a white wax crayon and apply to
> the end and both sides of the crack. It does the same as the shellac and
> is ready to use instantly.
>
> Larger voids and knot holes I fill with epoxy, adding a drop of black
> dye to the mix and add turquoise pieces and brass clippings.
and pretty foolproof! Thanks for the tip.
> Love the canisters.
Thanks...
tom koehler
Feb 6, 2012, 3:44:39 PM2/6/12
to
On Sat, 4 Feb 2012 15:31:21 -0600, Kevin Miller wrote
(in message <4f2da3b4$1...@news.acsalaska.net>):
> Finished a couple more pieces last week. They can be seen over in
> alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking or on my facebook page (no facebook
> membership required).
>
> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2408353294547.2110249.1422642899&ty
> pe=1&l=25f82bf4ef
>
> The walnut had some end checking which I filled that with brass shavings
> and CA glue. I tend to "enhance" defects to turn them into accent
> details rather than try to hide them with wood filler or sawdust. That
> never seems to work for me.
>
> One thing that's always bugged me about using superglue for cracks is it
> runs so freely that you get a slight variance in the sheen when you
> finish it. This time around I applied a coat of shellac before using
> the CA glue. Shellac dries fast, and filled the pores so any wayward CA
> was on the surface, not in the wood. After the shellac was dry I
> applied the CA to the brass filling, then made a couple of finish cuts
> to even everything out, sanded to 600 and applied the final shellac
> finish coats. Worked pretty well. Should have tried it years ago!
>
> The maple piece is finished with Minwax Tung Oil Finish...
>
> ...Kevin
>
I use 5 minute epoxy mixed with powdered brass. Pack the stuff into a crack,
finish turning, sand and buff as usual.
You have some very attractive cannisters.
tom koehler
--
I will find a way or make one.
(in message <4f2da3b4$1...@news.acsalaska.net>):
> Finished a couple more pieces last week. They can be seen over in
> alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking or on my facebook page (no facebook
> membership required).
>
> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2408353294547.2110249.1422642899&ty
> pe=1&l=25f82bf4ef
>
> The walnut had some end checking which I filled that with brass shavings
> and CA glue. I tend to "enhance" defects to turn them into accent
> details rather than try to hide them with wood filler or sawdust. That
> never seems to work for me.
>
> One thing that's always bugged me about using superglue for cracks is it
> runs so freely that you get a slight variance in the sheen when you
> finish it. This time around I applied a coat of shellac before using
> the CA glue. Shellac dries fast, and filled the pores so any wayward CA
> was on the surface, not in the wood. After the shellac was dry I
> applied the CA to the brass filling, then made a couple of finish cuts
> to even everything out, sanded to 600 and applied the final shellac
> finish coats. Worked pretty well. Should have tried it years ago!
>
> The maple piece is finished with Minwax Tung Oil Finish...
>
> ...Kevin
>
finish turning, sand and buff as usual.
You have some very attractive cannisters.
tom koehler
--
I will find a way or make one.
Kevin Miller
Feb 6, 2012, 4:21:33 PM2/6/12
to
On 02/06/2012 11:44 AM, tom koehler wrote:
> I use 5 minute epoxy mixed with powdered brass. Pack the stuff into a crack,
> finish turning, sand and buff as usual.
> You have some very attractive cannisters.
> tom koehler
Thanks Tom. I've used 5 min epoxy before too, but these were just thin
> I use 5 minute epoxy mixed with powdered brass. Pack the stuff into a crack,
> finish turning, sand and buff as usual.
> You have some very attractive cannisters.
> tom koehler
hairline cracks. I'm not sure that I'd have been able to get a
sufficient amount of glue into the cracks with epoxy. The thin CA wicks
in nicely. For bigger voids though, epoxy is definitely a great solution...
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
"In the history of the world, no one has ever washed a rented car."
- Lawrence Summers
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