I used pectin enzyme in the initial step ( Aug. 20) , before my last
racking, I added bentonite... no change.
HELP
Don :(
How does it taste and smell? If there are no bad flavors or smells
it's probably ok.
You might try adding pectic enzyme again. If you added it initially
it should be fine, but I did have one batch of cherry wine I had to
dose a second time to get it to clear.
---
Bryan
--faze...@mindspring.com
for more info check out the rec.crafts.winemaking
FAQ: http://www.pobox.com/~malak/rcw.faq
thanks
Harry
[posted & e-mailed]
You want to check out Don Buchan's web site (see my sig line). Don
maintains the FAQ and has a LOT of other info there. Section G08 has
a list of hardware you will need.
You really want to read the entire FAQ. It is long reading, but
definitely worth it. But I'm going to point out a few sections that I
find especially valuable.
First is regarding sulfites, Sections G23 & G24. Unless you're
allergic to sulfites, and have a friend of family who is, I strongly
recommend using sulfites as an antioxidant and preservative for the
wine.
I didn't find anything in the FAQ on making a sanitizing solution, so
here's what I do: For sanitizing equipment, make a solution of 4 oz
sodium metabisulfite in 1 gallon water. Rinse ALL equipment with this
every time you do anything to the wine. You do NOT have to rinse with
water afterwards.
Also, instead of using Campden tablets you can use 1 tsp of this
solution. And . . . the solution is good as long as it really stinks.
I don't have a clue what a loquat is, and Don didn't have a recipe,
but with most fruits you can use the following generic recipe, which
is designed to make a bit more than 1 US gallon of wine. For 5
gallons of wine multiply everything by 5.
Note: the following instructions are not meant to be comprehensive,
and this is NOT the only way to do it. However, this method is basic
and relatively straight forward, designed to make a successful batch
of wine.
2 to 5 lbs fruit
2 to 2-1/2 lbs sugar
1 gallon water, divided
1 tsp yeast nutrient
1-1/2 tsp acid blend
2 Campden tablets, crushed
1/2 tsp pectic enzyme
1/4 tsp grape tannin
wine yeast
Boil 5 cups water and dissolve the sugar in it. Let this cool to room
temperature.
Chop the fruit, removing large stones or pits. The more fruit you use
the more fruit flavor you will get in the finished wine.
Mix all ingredients, including the remainder of the gallon of water,
but not the yeast, in a food grade container, preferably at least 3
gallon size. Stainless steel is good, but don't use carbon steel or
cast iron. The acid in the wine will react with the metal and it
won't be a good reaction. Your local wine shop should have food grade
plastic containers in sizes varying from 1-1/2 gallons up to 25 or
more.
Note: Pouring the boiling sugar water directly on the fruit may aid
in flavor and color extraction. Please note that if you do this you
MUST add pectic enzyme. Otherwise the fruit pectins are likely to be
"activated" by the heat and your wine will be hazy.
If you don't have a hydrometer, get one. The cost should be less than
$10 US. Check the specific gravity (SG). It should be between 1.070
and 1.100, which will produce a wine of approximately 9% to 13%
alcohol. I normally target a SG of 1.085 to 1.095, which produces 11%
to 12% alcohol
Hydrate the yeast in 1/2 glass warm, but not hot water. I add 1 tsp
table sugar to this to help get it going. When the yeast foams up and
fills the glass it's ready (takes anywhere from 15 minutes to a few
hours). Stir into the must. Note: Add the yeast 12 to 24 hours
after starting the wine.
Cover the container with a cloth that does not tightly seal the
container, but is enough to keep out things like fruit flies. I use
plastic wrap. Place the container in a location where the temperature
won't vary much. A temperature of 65 to 75 degress F is good.
Normally fermentation will take off in 1-3 days. If it isn't going at
the end of the 4th day I'd add another package of yeast.
Once fermentation begins the fuit pulp will rise to the surface due to
the CO2 given off. Twice per day punch this cap down and stir the
must. After punching down the cap take a clean cloth and soak it with
sulfite water. Wipe the inside of the fermenter down to the level of
the fruit, cleaning up any fruit pulp.
After 4 days of fermentation check the SG daily. When the SG is below
1.020 press the fruit and transfer the wine to gallon jug and place a
stopper and airlock on top. Any excess wine should be placed in a
smaller bottle(s) reserved for this purpose, and place an airlock on
it as well.
Rack after an additional 7-10 days, or after the fermentation ceases
and a significant amount of sediment has accumulated. Add an
additional crushed Campden tablet to the wine.
Note: If you're making a 5 gallon or larger batch, use 1/4 tsp
potassium metabisulfite per *5* gallons of wine. This is cheaper and
better than Campden.
Rack again after 3 weeks, or after there is additional sediment
buildup. Again, add a Campden. If you're into filtering, use a
coarse filter after racking. The SG will probably be in the range of
0.990 to 1.000.
Do a final racking after 3-9 months. Again, if you're into filtering,
use a medium filter after racking and the SG should be in the range of
0.990 to 1.000. If it is higher than this the fermentation is
probably not complete and more time is probably necessary.
Bottle any time after this final racking. At bottling time add a
final Campden tablet per gallon.
If you want to sweeten the wine, make a sugar syrup by boiling 1 part
water and stirring in 2 parts sugar. Let this cool completely. Put a
couple of ounces of wine in a glass and sweeten that to taste.
If you think the wine is just about right, but maybe a little more
sugar is needed - STOP. That extra bit of sugar will probably be too
much. Sweeten the entire batch with the same proportion as the
sample. Add 1/2 tsp potassium sorbate per gallon to stabilize the
wine.
Bottle and let the wine set for at least 3 months, preferrably a year.
But we all know you can't wait. Few ever have, expecially with the
first couple of batches :-)
I made peach wine 2 years in a row. The first year it was great, but was
awful after 2 years. The second time I made it I could not get it to
clear. I have some still from 1996 that is bottled and still cloudy.
There is "scummy" sediment in the bottle. I would not drink it straight,
but it's great as a cooler (ie mixed with Fresca or store brand alt).
I still plan to persue this situation on this newsgroup....
>I made peach wine 2 years in a row. The first year it was great, but was
>awful after 2 years.
Please give more details. "Awful" is a bit vague. :-)
Some fruit wines don't have much of a shelf life, but I would expect
you to get at least 3 years out of it. Do you add sulfite? Lack of
sulfite can dramatically reduce shelf life.
>The second time I made it I could not get it to
>clear. I have some still from 1996 that is bottled and still cloudy.
>There is "scummy" sediment in the bottle. I would not drink it straight,
>but it's great as a cooler (ie mixed with Fresca or store brand alt).
>I still plan to persue this situation on this newsgroup....
There are a lot of factors that could be involved. If the wine failed
to clear I would immediately suspect fruit pectins. The solution to
this is pectic enzyme.
Did you use a fining agent, e.g., bentonite, sparkaloid, etc? That
can certainly help.
Big question: How long did you leave the wine in bulk prior to
bottling? When working with fresh fruit (as opposed to kits) I would
recommend a minimum of 3 months (preferrably 6 to 9).
What's the rationale for the recommendation for the entended length of
time?
Carol
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cool cats, brick bats, bad boys wearin' big hats
Surf's up, my cup, floating, flying, rising up.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
carol @ kermode.net
>>Big question: How long did you leave the wine in bulk prior to
>>bottling? When working with fresh fruit (as opposed to kits) I would
>>recommend a minimum of 3 months (preferrably 6 to 9).
>
>What's the rationale for the recommendation for the entended length of
>time?
It gives the wine sufficient time to clear on its own, and you can be
sure the fermentation is fully completed (although I trust my
hydrometer more than any time limit on that).
There is also a matter of chemistry. As the wine ages it goes through
various chemical changes. Various "experts" have stated that long term
bulk aging benefits the wine. But I'm not really up on the technical
end of this so I can't provide a detailed analysis. (It's like my TV
- I understand the basics of how & why it works, but don't know any
real details - nor does it really matter)
If anyone has located any articles regarding the chemical changes
during aging, I'd appreciate it if they would post some info.
But wine does need aging. The kits need less, but they still benefit.
Besides, if the wine is in bulk I'm not tempted to open a bottle too
soon. :-)
[ Don Buchan & I razz each other over the fact that he's not patient
enough and I'm too patient. Don't let him know that I'm not all that
patient - I just do things to limit my own impatience. <G> ]
Ohh, come now, why would he do such a thing, turtleman?
----------
Don Buchan malak&pobox.com (&=@) http://www.pobox.com/~malak/ From there:
Winemaking linx & FTP, rec.crafts.winemaking FAQ, Missing Link Rovers
(Mtl Que Can), firstarter FAQ, Scouting FTP & Super Scout(er), Star Trek
linx & FTP, Help Stop Spam, Zee Svedish Cheff, Summer Camp selection
I've got it figured that wine clearing on its own has less to do with
chemical changes than it does to whether the Goddess of Wine has a
hangover or not when she blesses it. There doesn't seem to be any
logical reason otherwise. I've just bottled a batch of peach wine
that was pristine clear after six weeks - nothing in it but peaches,
sugar, water and yeast whereas there is a gallon of cloudy of wannabe
pear wine that I have been fighting with for over ten weeks now. It's
still winning.
>[ Don Buchan & I razz each other over the fact that he's not patient
>enough and I'm too patient. Don't let him know that I'm not all that
>patient - I just do things to limit my own impatience. <G> ]
I have lots of patience... until I get thirsty.
>I've got it figured that wine clearing on its own has less to do with
>chemical changes than it does to whether the Goddess of Wine has a
>hangover or not when she blesses it. There doesn't seem to be any
>logical reason otherwise. I've just bottled a batch of peach wine
>that was pristine clear after six weeks - nothing in it but peaches,
>sugar, water and yeast whereas there is a gallon of cloudy of wannabe
>pear wine that I have been fighting with for over ten weeks now. It's
>still winning.
There is *always* a logical reason for everything. It's just that we
don't know what that reason is. :-)
I would try pectic enzyme on the pear wine, and then a fining agent.
I prefer bentonite, but all fining agents have their pros and cons.
Use whatever strikes your fancy. You're still going to win, but it
may take a bit of perseverance.