Also, what is couture sewing?
Brenna
Here are some easy finishes for seams: >
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_finishing.htm
This will tell you a little more about the term couture, and what Haute
Couture really means: > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haute_couture
To discover some more about the whole idea and the sewing techniques
used, you could go a long way and do worse than invest in this book: >
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/reader/0942391888/ref=sib_dp_pt#reader-link
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
My old Bernette serger went out last year and I was shocked at how
inexpensive sergers have gotten. I replaced it with a $300 serger
that is really quite servicible and a lot more user friendly.
Taria
Easiest thing would probably be a zig-zag stitch. If you have the
patience for 'couture', then you can sew it by hand. I think you can
combine - zig zag on the (more) inner parts, and bind it by hand where
it might be seen.
I never had a Serger . I use the zigag with the 4 steps each side ,for
many finnishes ,
Couture is Elegant High Quality attention to each deatil sewing ,,,
mirjam
> Anyways, what are some good ways to bind the seams or
> cover them so that they aren't exposed on the inside?
Seams in non-fraying fabrics often don't need covering.
Pinking may be sufficient.
I use pre-graded flat-fell seams a lot.
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/~roughsewing/RUFFTEXT/ROUGH009.TXT
Use "find" to jump down to "An easier way to make a flat-felled
seam:". If your browser mushes everything into one paragraph, click
"view source".
(Looks as though this file needs a thorough editing as soon as I'm
done with "bags".)
French seams are good on fine fabrics, and places where you don't mind
a ridge inside the garment. Very narrow french seams are often used
on sheer fabrics.
On thick, heavy fabrics, a hong-kong binding is good. I've used it
only on things that are afterward sewn down -- for the top layer of
the mock-felled seams in my wool pants, for example -- but I first
heard of it as a finish for seams that are pressed open.
You take a strip of plain bias tape with no folds pressed in -- though
I wouldn't bother to iron the folds out of commercial tape. (Well I
don't *think* I would; I haven't used commercial tape in twenty or
thirty years.)
Match one raw edge of the tape to the edge to be finished and sew a
quarter inch from the edge. Make a narrower seam if you want a
daintier finish, a wider one if the fabric is very thick. Wrap the
tape over the edge to the back, then stitch in the ditch to make it
stay wrapped.
I'm now making a purse where I simply ran a line of straight stitching
near each raw edge before sewing the purse together. Most of these
edges were torn, so I get a fringed effect.
I've heard of turning under a quarter inch of the raw edge, then
straight-stitching to make it stay folded, but this strikes me as
clumsy, and I've never done it.
If the edge is to be cut along a drawn thread, you can zig-zag before
cutting for a very neat and flat finish. Let the zigs pierce the
fabric and the zags fall into the space where the thread has been
withdrawn.
Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.
On my [soft] cotton shirts i always stitch the shoulder seam [inside]
than lay it flat and zigzag it to the bodice ,, it sits well and is
neatly finnished ,,
mirjam