OT - painting cabinets?
Debi
white. Has anyone here done this before? Any advice? I'm assuming the cabinet
will need to be sanded but I'm hoping I can just "lightly sand" and not strip
the finish completely. Also, what kind of paint is best? I don't really want a
shiny finish but I do want it to be scrubbable. Thanks for any tips!
Debi
"Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most!"
res0qihv
residue of dirt. or OR the new paint will NOT adhere to surface. been
there done that.
Second. make sure there is no residue of cleaner or sanding.
NOW life is beautiful. you can choose your paint and just do it. I prefer an
enamel. because it is easy to clean. you can use a semi gloss or flat. I
used to go for a semi glossor flat. Now in me old age where every speck of
light is more valuable than gold, I use high gloss. discovered this when
moving into a place dark as a cave and kept saying to DH "we're going to
have to buy some more lamps" we painted with gloss on ceilings and
woodwork. Then with light carpet and light wall paper, that we needed no
more lamps.
if you wish to be really cool. find a book called "shabby chic" and get some
fab ideas. don't know the author. Library maybe? Gene
"Debi" <debi...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020413091526...@mb-fx.aol.com...
Debi
<res0...@verizon.net> writes:
> Now in me old age where every speck of
>light is more valuable than gold, I use high gloss. discovered this when
>moving into a place dark as a cave and kept saying to DH "we're going to
>have to buy some more lamps" we painted with gloss on ceilings and
>woodwork. Then with light carpet and light wall paper, that we needed no
>more lamps.
I know this is true! When we painted "our" bathroom a medium shade of blue
it was like we turned off the lights! Big difference. This bathroom is for the
kids though. Black and white so far. The cabinet will be white and we're off to
the paint store shortly to pick a beautiful color for the walls. Thanks for the
tips on sanding and cleaning!
Kim Fisher
Puff puff, breathe breathe....
OK. So I'm overreacting, because on Scott's last business trip, I
undertook to paint my kitchen cabinets. How long could it take? How many
could there be? Ugh. It took days and days of no-time-to-quilt full days.
They turned out pretty good, however, so I will give you the benefit of
my experience. I painted the bathroom cabinets, the kitchen cabinets,
and DD#1 painted her bathroom and trim. Most of the cabinets I painted
had already been painted before. I'm not intending to keep them, either,
but can't afford to remodel just yet, and they were all faded and dinged
up and dingy. So in some respects, I wanted to do a good job, but not
necessarily a perfect one. I sanded some spots down flat that really
needed sanding. When we painted the shiny wood trim of DD#1's bath we
sanded them to rough up the finish but didn't strip them. We did used a
gloss latex enamel paint, and they came out very nicely- I would imagine
a similar paint with a less shiny finish would work just as well. The
kitchen cabinets I used a semi-gloss latex, and they look wonderful and
have been easy to wipe off kitchen spills. I wouldn't think I'd want to
*scrub* them hard, but I think they could withstand some serious wiping.
Starting with a shiny wood finish, I'd think you'd want to sand lightly,
wipe with a tack cloth, or wash with TSP or something to get all the
dust off. Plan to do at least two coats. Your first coat may not go on
evenly, but if you wait until it is completely dry, the second coat
should go on perfectly. Don't make the mistake of putting on the paint
too thickly. Treat yourself to a good paintbrush, it will make a
difference. Get help at your local paint or hardware store in picking
the type of paint and brush for your project. Another tip: take the
time, and take the whole darn thing apart. Take out all the drawers,
remove whatever doors you can, any and all hardware. Paint them
separately, and let them dry completely before you put them back. I wish
now that I had taken the time to remove all the old paint from the
hardware when the previous owners painted these cabinets white, they
just sloshed paint all over the hinges and all, and I took such pains to
remove them first- it struck me that I could have gotten some steel wool
or paint remover or something and fixed them before I put them back. I
was trying to get the kitchen put back as a surprise before Scott came
home, so I didn't. Phooey. Anyhow, you might think of sprucing up your
vanity with some new hardware- it might make it look like a brand new piece.
Have fun. The bathroom shouldn't take long. Not like a whole @#$@#
kitchen. Woof!
Also Kim
Kathy
> We're remodeling our bathroom and I've decided to paint our oak vanity
> white. Has anyone here done this before? Any advice? I'm assuming the cabinet
> will need to be sanded but I'm hoping I can just "lightly sand" and not strip
> the finish completely. Also, what kind of paint is best? I don't really want a
> shiny finish but I do want it to be scrubbable. Thanks for any tips!
Putting on the paint store owner hat here...
First, and this is NOT OPTIONAL *grin*, is to clean the vanity with a
cleaner that will not leave any residue. I recomment TSP (if you have
Spic-n-span, that's the same thing, with perfume.) If anyone has ever
used any aerosol of any type in the bathroom, there will be a residue on
the vanity, and it must come off.
If you use the right primer, you won't have to sand the vanity at all.
You want a primer that has good adhesion, and is also stain sealing.
Good adhesion to stick to the unknown finish on there, and stain sealing
in case the finish has worn through, and any of the oak is exposed. Oak
has lots of tannin, and that will discolor your white paint. Also,
because of the pores in oak, you may not have been able to scrub
everything off, and a stain sealing primer will help with that. A
quick-dry oil-based primer will be the best, and as much as I hate
oil-based, it's what I would use. But 80% of my customers choose the
water-based version, and 80% of those people are happy with the results.
Whether you use an oil-based or water-based primer, you can choose
either for a top coat. You want to look for a top coat that says
"enamel" on the label. Lots of people think enamel equals oil-based or
that enamel equals shiny, but enamel actually means it's a tough,
durable finish. So at my store, we actually sell a flat, water-based
enamel that you can scrub with Comet or 409. But in general, in the same
quality range, the higher the sheen, the more scrubable the product is.
You won't get low price, scrubbable, and low sheen all in the same
product -- one of those things will have to give way.
Backing up a little bit, remember that unless you fill the grain, your
painted oak cabinets will still have the oak grain. Some people love
that, some people hate it. You'll need to decide which camp you're in.
If you decide to fill the grain, do it after the primer, then reprime
after filling the grain. And use an actual grain-filler, not spackle.
(Spackle can't get a good enough "bite" in that shallow of a surface,
and can fail later on. Not a pretty sight.)
Good luck!
--
Kathy Applebaum (Woodland, CA)
longarm machine quilting
mailto:Kayney...@compuserve.com
Kathy
> Take out all the drawers,
> remove whatever doors you can, any and all hardware.
And number them. I know, it seems like all the doors and pulls should be
interchangeable, but sometimes they aren't. *grin*
niasha
-You can get a liquid cleaner/sander/deglosser and just white off
cabinets.
-Two, you can get TSP (really cleans dirt, oil but wear gloves. Not
toxic but can irritate sensitive skin), lightly sand to rough up
surface so that paint has something to adhere to. (You are not sanding
off finish, just the gloss). I found it faster to clean and sand
(with my little mouse sander than use the deglosser).
-After either one of the two methods you need to apply a primer (kiltz
for wood or wood product cabinets light mine) and then paint. Get the
primer tinted the same color as the paint to save time and extra
coating. The best paint to get is kitchen and bath. It's harder than
regular latex paint. Do not get enamel, too hard to work with. The
kitchen and bath paint is tough but if you want extra production you
can always add a polyurethene. The best is by Vathurene (sic) because
it doesn't yellow.
P.S. You only need to strip if the UPS guy is delivering some stash,
hubby is in the house and feeling frisky, or you have real wood
cabinets and want to restain.
(Debi) wrote> We're remodeling our bathroom and I've decided to paint
Debi
One double sink sized vanity - no drawers, 4 doors. Great advice about the
hardware! We've returned from the paint store with color for the walls. My
oldest DD chose the color - it's a darkish dusty purple called tropical dusk.
It wouldn't be my choice but I think it'll look nice. The white in the bathroom
(cabinet, trim, blinds) will brighten it up along with the towels (a brighter
shade of purple). The shower and countertop (and sinks) are black cultured
marble with streaks of white. The floor is a black and white checkerboard
pattern where the white has specks of black that makes it look greyish.
Tomorrow I'll paint the walls so the kids can move back in. The cabinet won't
get done for a week or so probably but I'll let you know how it turns out.
Ellison
Kathy, I love it when you talk paint!
I love to paint; my dad was a carpenter/painter/builder.
Many times recently I've wanted to call and ask his
advice. The man was color-blind, but he could
sure paint! <g>
Ragmop--painting and quilting, quilting and painting,
and chocolate, and sunflower seeds & Dr.Pepper:
these are a few of my favorite things.... ;-D
"Kathy" <Kayney...@compuserve.com> wrote in message
news:1fakjlm.emjkks1gzc07gN%Kayney...@compuserve.com...
Ellison
I do as Kathy suggests, get a good primer,
no sanding required on the glossy finishes I'm painting over.
I use oil-based for wood, water-based for sheetrock walls.
One of the things I learned from my dad about using oil-based
paints, stains, primers: get extra brushes and throw them away when
you're done. <G> He said after 40 yrs. of cleaning the darned things,
having the paint thinner, turpentine, or other brush cleaner around,
he wasn't going to get any more of that junk on his hands; he didn't
buy top-of-the-line brushes for oil-base (he didn't buy cheap ones,
either), but a middle-grade, middle-priced brush or 2 that he would
use for one job only, then pitch 'em in the trash.
This from a man who had saws, hammers, planes, etc. that were over
150 yrs. old. He kept the latex paint brushes, and so do I.
Good luck!
Ragmop--figuring that LogCabin quilt blocks are easier to deal with
than cabinet doors <G>
"Kathy" <Kayney...@compuserve.com> wrote in message
news:1fakjlm.emjkks1gzc07gN%Kayney...@compuserve.com...
Kathy
> Kathy, I love it when you talk paint!
So does DH! *snicker, blush!*
Polly E
cabinet that is going to come live in my sewing room. The plan: paint it and
then decoupage tissue sewing pattern pieces on. This make take some
experimenting but I do have a test board before I actually attack the
cabinet. The project (in my mind) is so precious, I can hardly wait to get
started on the real thing. Want to come play at my house? Polly
"Debi" <debi...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020413182426...@mb-mk.aol.com...
NightMist
I'm saving your post Kathy, and emailing it to my landlord!
He conned me into painting a bathroom in another rental and sticking
up one of those paper borders. He gave me the dimensions of the area
that need painting and I figured "good deal, it's small, I can prep
and paint that in an afternoon." What he did not tell me was A: the
walls were covered with cheap paneling. B: the paint he was giving me
to go over the paneling was white alkyd. and C: he was too much of a
tightwad to give me any primer at all, much less Kilz or something
that would make the job actually easier. It took a full week to
complete that job! I think the paneling in there is now solid alkyd.
At least he gave me a bonus for tipping him off to spray paint the
venietian blinds instead of trying to wash them.
NightMist
who doesn't let her landlord paint anything in her apartment.
--
everybody is somebodys chew toy
Polly E
not a stripper. They have already seen everything, many times. They will
just ask you to please sign here - and only if a signature is required.
Moving right along, usually spelling is not important to me but I would like
to know the name of the polyurethane that doesn't yellow. The last one I
used did yellow. I'm going to be painting a pale yellow and the sewing
pattern tissue for the decoupage is sort of yellow too - but I would like to
look for Vathurene (sp?) if it doesn't yellow. Could you please go look for
the can and tell me the right way to spell it? Polly
"niasha" <nia...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:a3af1cb9.02041...@posting.google.com...
LN
flat boards with routed edges. Very dull. I was thinking of
putting 'frames' on the front for some interest, but they may look
stupid that way. I'll have to try it out first.
--
LN a crazy quilter in NH
"...[they had] leisure to make beautiful things just for the fun
of it..." - The Hobbit, JRR Tolkien
"Kim Fisher" <also...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:3CB87085...@verizon.net...
taria
share him with you for the carpentry advice Sandy. For painting you best go
Kathy though ; )
Taria
Ellison wrote:
--
Please visit my web page at: http://home1.gte.net/res0yk6g/taria/index.htm
See my Siberian Cat, Lilly, at:
http://home1.gte.net/res0yk6g/lillypage/lillycat.htm
CHANGE YOUR ADDRESS BOOK! New email address: taria....@verizon.net
Carol Schwaderer Dickinson
>
> We're remodeling our bathroom
DANG! So am I. Forced into it actually. Started out as just gluing the
tub surround back on. Now the walls are gone and the carpenter is coming
tomorrow to put in a different window. We broke the saw. Sigh.
and I've decided to paint our oak vanity
> white. Has anyone here done this before? Any advice? I'm assuming the cabinet
> will need to be sanded but I'm hoping I can just "lightly sand" and not strip
> the finish completely.
I did it the kitchen some years back. Yes you have to sand a lot to
break the finish. If its a shiny finish, lots of sanding. If not, you
can pain over it with a primer.
Debi
Ellison" <Elliso...@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>One of the things I learned from my dad about using oil-based
>paints, stains, primers: get extra brushes and throw them away when
>you're done. <G> He said after 40 yrs. of cleaning the darned things,
>having the paint thinner, turpentine, or other brush cleaner around,
>he wasn't going to get any more of that junk on his hands; he didn't
>buy top-of-the-line brushes for oil-base (he didn't buy cheap ones,
>either), but a middle-grade, middle-priced brush or 2 that he would
>use for one job only, then pitch 'em in the trash.
I'm with your dad on this one! I do wash my brushes after using latex paint
but when they start to get nasty they get tossed too! And paint rollers... I
used to wash those but not any more!
P.S. The sorta dark, dusty, purple looks better than I thought next to the
black countertop...
Helen in MN
the cabinets, then paint one in varying colors.
Helen in MN
"LN" <LNSobs...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:__5u8.1007$lv7.18...@newssvr15.news.prodigy.com...
Lynne in Toronto
Wash the wood with TSP first (Tri-sodium phosphate) to get all the
greasy amd mucky fingerprints and stuff off... and remember to wear
gloves!!
Best wishes,
Lynne in Toronto
niasha
well know and famous for it's floor refinishing products and, as far
as I know, is the only company whose name starts with a V. I should
be going to Lowe's and Home Depot tomorrow and will get the correct
spelling. My friend just informed me that many of the products out
today are non-yellowing. She just used one by Miniwax. She also says
the other product is put out by Valspar. She says that several
companies now put out non-yellowing sealers, you just have to read the
information on the label.
"Polly E" <miste...@mindspring.com> wrote in message news:<a9ap2m$m9h$1...@slb1.atl.mindspring.net>...
niasha
newsgroups for over a month. I've had to use google, which confuses the
heck out of me, and poor eyesight has resulted in lousey typing. Again,
sorry.
--
Niasha
"What doesn't kill you, defines you."
"niasha" <nia...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
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