Framing binge
Linda D.
I'm very impressed you got the 'energy' to do all this
framing, I'm hoping it will rub off on me :) I have a couple of
question for you. Do you manage to find ready made mats and frames
for your designs? or do you get a framer to cut them for you and then
you do the lacing and putting together?
I recently framed a poster for my son...no problem, it was a
standard size. I then wanted to frame another poster, I could use a
standard size frame, but needed a custom cut mat. The framer in
Michael's would only sell me a full sheet of black mat board, when I
only needed a piece 18 by 24 inches (or whatever the dimensions were).
So now I have to go back and forth to Michael's until they get some
standard sized black mats in :(
I have a bunch of needlework needing to be framed, but not one
of them will fit in a standard frame :( I would love to know how
everyone deals with framing these at a reasonable cost.
take care, Linda :)
On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 14:20:22 GMT, animaux <ani...@iays.com> wrote:
>Yesterday I finally framed "Spiritdancer." Then I framed my "Great Blue Heron,"
>but my husband didn't like the mat. I silver leafed it and drabbed it down with
>antiquing liquid. He thinks a darker color mat is better. So, I have to cut a
>new mat. Then, I framed a bunch of other things our nieces painted for us and
>now I have to find places to hang them all. Today I am finally going to frame
>"Celtic Christmas" and she is going to be a gift to my neighbor. I'd stitch
>that one again. I loved the vivid reds.
>
>Victoria
Vancouver Island, bc.ca :) (remove 'nospam' to reply)
See samples of my work at: www.members.shaw.ca/deugau
SEL
> of them will fit in a standard frame :( I would love to know how
> everyone deals with framing these at a reasonable cost.
>
> take care, Linda :)
Hi Linda
Most framing shops - even Michaels - should be willing & able to cut you a
mat to whatever size you'd like.
Example:
http://www.martekbiz.com/links/xsfrog.jpg is a picture of X's and Oh's Frog
Prince that I finished a couple of weeks ago. I wanted to frame it without
breaking the bank. I dropped by Michaels and bought a frame on sale... In
this case it's a 10x13" frame that had a pre-existing cream mat in it 8x10.
The cream mat did nothing for the piece at all. I happened to be dropping by
my LNS, who also frames (fantastic stuff !), and she cut me a piece of the
green mat, with an opening that better suited the size and shape of the
frog. The entire framing bill, including mat, acid free foam board, and
frame - about $12. (I do pin my own needlework).
Alternatively, if you can get your hands on a mat cutter, you could tackle
cutting yoru own mats - which reduces the costs dramatically. That's my next
step, when I get enough money to invest in a good quality cutter.
Some of my work, I don't mind spending the $100's to frame. They're just
worth it to me. Others languish in drawers for years because I can't justify
$150+ to frame them. But with a nice frame, and a nice framing shop that
will cut mats to my specs ? I'm a happy girl :)
Shannon L.
Olwynmary
it to me. Others languish in drawers for years because I can't justify $150+ to
frame them.>
Merciful Heavens!!!! I knew framing was expensive, but I had no idea it was
that high!!!!
DH and I frame everything ourselves - mostly pictures, very little needlework -
but he bought himself a mat cutter at least 20 years ago, and it has paid for
itself over and over. We buy some standard frames, but mostly pick up old
frames very cheaply at estate sales etc., sometimes for only $1 or $2 each. As
he also does home repairs he has a miter box (and a saw, of course) so it is
not hard to cut used frames to size. We buy full size sheets of acid-free mat
board, foamboard etc. at the art supply store, and keep them around. You'd be
surprised how many mats you can get out of a full size sheet, and we store the
leftovers behind a bookcase, out of sight but easily accessible. We have
learned from experience, and everything goes under glass except for really huge
pieces which go under Plexiglass. Fibers have a double layer of mat on them to
ensure that no fibers touch the glass, and are lightly basted to a double layer
of old well-washed cotton sheets laced over the foamboard or acid-free backing.
Once you have bought the mat cutter, you can frame just about anything for the
cost of one evening's labor and about $10 in materials.
Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.
Linda D.
Thanks for all of your hints and tips about framing Victoria
:)
On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 14:43:30 GMT, animaux <ani...@iays.com> wrote:
>It does take a lot of energy to get going, but once I do I like the results. I
>do not buy already cut mats. They don't sell large enough mats for the pieces I
>usually stitch. Every now and then Hobby Lobby will put mat board on sale for
>$2.47 and I go then and buy a bunch of mats, based on fabric colors and I will
>sometimes take the photo of the piece or some of the floss.
>
>I bought a mat cutter. It's the Logan 2000 push style.
>http://www.logangraphic.com/products/handheld/push.shtml
>
>I have a T-square I use and it works beautifully. It does take some practice,
>but not that much.
>
>Even if I buy a large mat board and have it cut, Hobby Lobby only charges one
>dollar per cut, so a mat cut from a larger mat board will cost 6 dollars...and
>you have mat left over for another project.
>
>Take your 50% or 40% off coupon for Michaels and buy a Logan 2000. You can try
>it, and return it if you don't like it, but I will say you do also need a
>T-square to keep your cuts straight. I have mounted my mat cutter to a piece of
>plywood 3'x3' with a old piece of mat as the surface my new mat to be cut will
>rest on.
>
>The first thing I ever had framed was a needlepoint, many years ago. It cost
>about 275 dollars. All it had was a frame, glass and a double mat. Nothing
>more. Now, for 275 dollars I can buy frames at Salvation Army, or anywhere for
>a fraction of the price and cut my own mats to fit. I've purchased frames at
>Salvation Army which probably would have cost me well over 100 dollars to buy
>new. HUGE frames with glass. I don't use anti-glare. That's my only thing.
>
>I also buy frames when they go half price at Hobby Lobby...open back. I have a
>glass place cut me a piece of glass and I do the mat, have brown craft paper to
>cover the back and nobody could ever tell I did it myself.
>
>As for the piece, I use foam core and one t-pin at a time I center the stitching
>and slowly go around, gently pulling so the fabric is taught, not tight, and I
>make sure the foam core is small enough to just fit inside the frame. I use
>acid free, double stick tape to position the stitchery on the mat and that's
>that! Simple.
Liz Hampton
> I have a bunch of needlework needing to be framed, but not one
> of them will fit in a standard frame :( I would love to know how
> everyone deals with framing these at a reasonable cost.
>
> take care, Linda :)
Our EGA group purchased a mat cutter. It "lives" at the president's house
and any member is welcome to borrow it. It only does straight edge cutting
so those who want a curved mat still have to have someone else do it for
them, but it serves the needs of most of the members. It also cuts foam
core, so some of us can do the framing from beginning to end.
Liz from Humbug
SEL
have a few pieces I want to frame with the suede, and am contemplating
trying to do it myself (big bucks otherwise), just not sure how easy it is.
(more expensive I know...)
Thanks for your explanation - and the recommendation on a cutter.
Shannon L.
Ellice
> I haven't, but I'm relatively certain it wouldn't be that different. The one
> variable would be thickness and precision of making sure you cut through on
> the
> first pass. After practice, you get to "feel" if it has cut through. I see
> no
> reason why it wouldn't work on the suede-like mats.
>
We use a logan (a couple of models up) in the Frame shop, and cut suede-mats
all the time. Just all about practice and being steady when you make the
cuts. And a good blade.
I'm surprised, Vic, that you tape mats down to your stitching, even
acid-free. Generally, if we fit everything into the frame properly, and the
piece has been stretched straigt (the foam-core cut straight) then we don't
have problems with the mat inner straight edges lying straight on the fabric
grain. Never tape them down. But, it's about the final securing of the piece
into the frame tightly enough. We do tape top mat to a bottom mat, but never
to a print or stitching. When we do prints, we mount them using a hinge made
with linen acid-free tape.
Good luck to all.
ellice
Linda Wright
size, even if it means the mat isn't perfectly even all the way
around. Then I can buy a standard frame.
I also keep an eye out for clearance, etc., frames and keep them in a
box under my bed to pull out when needed.
Linda in Columbia, MO
Elizabeth in Boca
Last week I realized that a sweet little piece my dd had done for me was
stuck to the mounting board....what was I thinking???? (no I didn't mount
it - I *paid* to have it done....like I said....)
anyway, I pulled it carefully off the board and part of the paper (I guess)
stuck to the stitching (14 ct Aida). I got some of it off after soaking and
brushing with a toothbrush. Does anyone have anymore hints? I am not sure
what was used to adhere the fabric to the board - maybe some 3M kind of
spray.
What do you think I could use to take off the rest of the paper - just more
soaking?
TIA,
Elizabeth
Ellice
> On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:30:41 -0500, "Elizabeth in Boca"
> <elizas...@yahoo.com> opined:
> Yes, more soaking, but you can try to use the Oxyclean. It is safe for
> fabrics
> and won't further damage it. Soak in warm water and change the water often.
I think you're stuck - pardon the pun. Just soak it, and work it gently with
the toothbrush, and even rubbing with your fingertip to keep getting the
paper off. And soak some more. It's very tedious.
We do a lot of conservation work, and reframing, and this is much more
common than you'd believe. Especially on pieces that were framed in the late
60s, 70s. Stuck on with sticky something. Just try to get off what you can,
and bring it to a different framer - make sure the new one has a CPF
(certified professional framer) on board, and that they have some needlework
experience.
If it was framed more than say 7 years ago, it's likely just Artist's Spray
Mount - 3M makes it in a couple of formulations. If more recently, it could
be one of the newer adhesives - but my bet would be Spray Mount. If you
still have trouble after soaking, you can carefully try some nail polish
remover - with acetone. Gently, apply it with a swab, or toothbrush, and not
where there is stitching. The acetone will break down some of the adhesives.
Alternatively, you could check out the 3M website, for information on
cleaning up or removing old Spray Mount.
Good luck,
Ellice
PS - I can ask the family in Boca if they know a good framer, if that would
help. My surrogate mom does a lot of CS, and framing - she'd likely know. My
SIL would only know really expensive, not necessarily good.
Elizabeth in Boca
I shall try to make it work. Actually, I have been mounting/framing my
pieces myself for a couple of years now so hopefully I can fix it.
thanks again,
Elizabeth in beautiful Boca Raton with 75 balmy degrees
Judith Truly
curves and straight edges and buy you frames at garage sales and auctions.
Framing many pieces through a frame shop is very expensive and frequently
unsatisfying. Witness the $500. someone paid Michaels to do Flower Power and
then had to return it because it wasnn't done right. She ended up paying
someone else half that, but for $250 she could have bought the mat cutter,
mat, frame and all and had the mat cutter for the next job maybe even cut a
mat for someone else!
"Liz Hampton" <li...@echoweb.net> wrote in message
news:BBD79A97.287F1%li...@echoweb.net...
Gillian Murray
You got me interested, so I went to Michaels today looking at Logan items,
and then went on to their website. I know you use the handheld 2000. I was
wondering what and Ellice, and all the other frame-it-yourself guys think
of splurging, and getting one like the Logan 301. Are there disadvantages to
it? With a 40% off coupon it would bring it down to about $60. I also asked
the lady about purchasing mat-board, and she said they sell it for 13.99 a
sheet. Any idea how big this is??
Input needed as family want to know what I want for Christmas......I really
need nothing, and just buy an item if I want it. However, this seemed a good
idea to me!
Gillian
"animaux" <ani...@iays.com> wrote in message
news:10h4rv4pvqvajsu3h...@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 17:14:21 GMT, muffy...@nospamyahoo.com (Linda D.)
opined:
>
> >Hi Victoria,
> >
> > I'm very impressed you got the 'energy' to do all this
> >framing, I'm hoping it will rub off on me :) I have a couple of
> >question for you. Do you manage to find ready made mats and frames
> >for your designs? or do you get a framer to cut them for you and then
> >you do the lacing and putting together?
>
Chrysta Wilson
Judit...@TeamIBA.com says...
> It's a lot less expennsive to buy a really good mat cutter that will cut
> curves and straight edges and buy you frames at garage sales and auctions.
> Framing many pieces through a frame shop is very expensive and frequently
> unsatisfying. Witness the $500. someone paid Michaels to do Flower Power and
> then had to return it because it wasnn't done right. She ended up paying
> someone else half that, but for $250 she could have bought the mat cutter,
> mat, frame and all and had the mat cutter for the next job maybe even cut a
> mat for someone else!
$500?! My word...how large *is* the design, exactly? I recently ordered
from this site:
http://www.americanframe.com/index.html
which I learned about here at RCTN. I got two metal frames and double
mats with all the necessary extras, and I was very happy with the
products, prices, and shipping times. I also like that they have the
option of using a picture of the piece so that you can get an idea of
what it will look like in the frame right on the site before you order.
This was helpful when choosing mats to coordinate with the piece. I have
no affiliation with this company, just have ordered from them twice now
and had no complaints. (of course, I ordered the wrong size opening in
one of my mats that caused the whole project to be too small for the
frame, but that was my fault.) :o)
--
Chrysta Wilson
Jenn Ridley
>In article <8Tqtb.1828$Wy4...@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net>,
>Judit...@TeamIBA.com says...
>> It's a lot less expennsive to buy a really good mat cutter that will cut
>> curves and straight edges and buy you frames at garage sales and auctions.
>> Framing many pieces through a frame shop is very expensive and frequently
>> unsatisfying. Witness the $500. someone paid Michaels to do Flower Power and
>> then had to return it because it wasnn't done right.
>
>$500?! My word...how large *is* the design, exactly?
Flower Power is *huge*. 36" by 22" *stitched* area on 16 ct. Add in
at least a couple of inches on each side for framing and mat, and
you're talking 40x26 inches. Just the frame and the foamcore will run
you close to $70 (for a simple frame) from American Frame. It's at
least $100 worth of materials to do it yourself, and it takes a lot of
fussy work to get a piece that big 'right'. (I think that it may
require piecing of the foamcore and special orders of the matting if
you want it bigger than 40", so that's an added expense.)
>http://www.americanframe.com/index.html
>
>which I learned about here at RCTN. I got two metal frames and double
>mats with all the necessary extras, and I was very happy with the
>products, prices, and shipping times. I also like that they have the
>option of using a picture of the piece so that you can get an idea of
>what it will look like in the frame right on the site before you order.
>This was helpful when choosing mats to coordinate with the piece.
I ordered a box of mat corners, so I can put them right up against the
piece I'm framing. I really need to order a new box, since I'm sure
they've added/deleted colors in the last 7 years or so.
jenn
--
Jenn Ridley
jri...@chartermi.net
WIP: Santa Christmas Stocking, Emperor's Coat, Stretch, Halloween Circle
Most recently Finished: Will Work for Freezer Space, Turnberry Ridge, Noah's Journey
Chrysta Wilson
jri...@chartermi.net says...
> Chrysta Wilson <coll...@chrystawilson.com> wrote:
>
> >In article <8Tqtb.1828$Wy4...@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net>,
> >Judit...@TeamIBA.com says...
> >> It's a lot less expennsive to buy a really good mat cutter that will cut
> >> curves and straight edges and buy you frames at garage sales and auctions.
> >> Framing many pieces through a frame shop is very expensive and frequently
> >> unsatisfying. Witness the $500. someone paid Michaels to do Flower Power and
> >> then had to return it because it wasnn't done right.
> >
> >$500?! My word...how large *is* the design, exactly?
>
> Flower Power is *huge*. 36" by 22" *stitched* area on 16 ct. Add in
> at least a couple of inches on each side for framing and mat, and
> you're talking 40x26 inches. Just the frame and the foamcore will run
> you close to $70 (for a simple frame) from American Frame. It's at
> least $100 worth of materials to do it yourself, and it takes a lot of
> fussy work to get a piece that big 'right'. (I think that it may
> require piecing of the foamcore and special orders of the matting if
> you want it bigger than 40", so that's an added expense.)
That sure is huge! I can imagine what a pain it would be to get that
right, too. Although for that much money, I'd have to at least try it on
my own, I think!
--
Chrysta Wilson
WIPs: Moose Welcome, Silent Night
Ellice
> You got me interested, so I went to Michaels today looking at Logan items,
> and then went on to their website. I know you use the handheld 2000. I was
> wondering what and Ellice, and all the other frame-it-yourself guys think
> of splurging, and getting one like the Logan 301. Are there disadvantages to
> it? With a 40% off coupon it would bring it down to about $60. I also asked
> the lady about purchasing mat-board, and she said they sell it for 13.99 a
> sheet. Any idea how big this is??
Gillian - couple of suggestions:
Check out the logan site, and you can see their comparison of the mat
cutters
http://www.logangraphic.com/products/boardmounted/
Listed below is a link to dick blick, which is an artist's supply house.
They have great stuff for framing, and often excellent sales. Good prices,
well, excellent, on several of the mat cutters right now.
http://www.dickblick.com/categories/matcutters/
Personally, if you can, I'd go to the Logan 450 - if you're going to be
framing regularly. This one has the squaring capability, and can handle a
full size sheet of mat-board. (40") If the extra dollars is too much for
the budget, then definitely go for the 301. The stability of one of these is
much greater than using a hand-held. And you'll be making better cuts,
faster. With the squaring held more firmly, it takes less strength from you.
With any mat cutting, it's about being able to hold the cutter comfortably,
and making the cut smoothly in one stroke.
In the shop, and at home, I have a separate cutter for ovals, circles. At
home, I have a handheld, but am about to buy a more permanent one!
Mat board comes in a standard sheet, 32" X 40", and also in a larger size,
generally not available in everything. Some artists' supply houses also sell
half-board, 20" X 32" . Dick Blick carries these - and if you get the 301,
you'd have to use those. Also, be sure to check if you're getting rag mat,
or paper. The rag mat is a much better quality, and again, acid free.
Crescent & Bainbridge each make several types of mat board. Prices vary
along with the surface, composition, core color. Be wary of a craft shop
selling the 'biege" core mat board, that is different than "buff core rag
board" . The not acid free paper board has the biege colored core. The white
cores are the acid-free.
Anyhow, Mat board can be ordered from several art or framing suppliers over
the net, or generally your local art supply store will sell full sheets.It
may be cheaper over the net, but not so convenient. Some framers may be
willing to sell you a sheet of mat board, but it will be marked up - not at
wholesale.
It's fun doing your own framing. But, as with so many things - it's worth
it, IMO, to get the best tools that you can afford, and will make use of.
Good luck,
ellice
Ellice
> Chrysta Wilson <coll...@chrystawilson.com> wrote:
>
>> In article <8Tqtb.1828$Wy4...@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net>,
>> Judit...@TeamIBA.com says...
*snip*
>>> unsatisfying. Witness the $500. someone paid Michaels to do Flower Power and
>>> then had to return it because it wasnn't done right.
>>
>> $500?! My word...how large *is* the design, exactly?
>
> Flower Power is *huge*. 36" by 22" *stitched* area on 16 ct. Add in
> at least a couple of inches on each side for framing and mat, and
> you're talking 40x26 inches. Just the frame and the foamcore will run
> you close to $70 (for a simple frame) from American Frame. It's at
> least $100 worth of materials to do it yourself, and it takes a lot of
> fussy work to get a piece that big 'right'. (I think that it may
> require piecing of the foamcore and special orders of the matting if
> you want it bigger than 40", so that's an added expense.)
It shouldn't require piecing of the foamcore - for the stretching. But,
depending on how large a mat is wanted, there could be building out of
additional backing for the mat to sit upon (framer trick ;^) ) And it would
possibly take an oversize piece of matboard. Also, cutting glass that large
is not done by all framers. Framers have different limits of how large the
glass they will work with -but this is not overly large for art, although it
is for needlework. And, the stretching of the piece is not a simple 15 min
job.
You're right about the fussy work!
>
>
>> http://www.americanframe.com/index.html
>>
>> which I learned about here at RCTN. I got two metal frames and double
>> mats with all the necessary extras, and I was very happy with the
>> products, prices, and shipping times. I also like that they have the
>> option of using a picture of the piece so that you can get an idea of
>> what it will look like in the frame right on the site before you order.
>> This was helpful when choosing mats to coordinate with the piece.
> I ordered a box of mat corners, so I can put them right up against the
> piece I'm framing. I really need to order a new box, since I'm sure
> they've added/deleted colors in the last 7 years or so.
Another good source for framing. Generally, there are some changes in mats,
and frame styles every year. The suppliers send to the shops a listing of
what's discontinued - so you can pull the samples out from display - and
hopefully get in the new ones. In the last few years some amazing textured
mats have come out - embossed with leaves, patterns that look great. I also
really like suede mats with a lot of needlework pieces. A very rich look.
Good for you, actually ordering your own mat corners. That's planning ;^)
ellice
Judith Truly
"Chrysta Wilson" <coll...@chrystawilson.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1a2088e0...@news.erols.com...
Darla
> I also
>really like suede mats with a lot of needlework pieces. A very rich look.
I've used a suede mat only once, for a piece that required the
intensity of the black suede that was lacking in other black mats. It
was for "Wild Eyed," a series of five pairs of eyes from various big
cats.
Darla
Sacred cows make great hamburgers.
Gillian Murray
The hated MIL paints, so I suggested that if I got the 301, then she could
cut mat boards for her work, too. We looked at Dick Blick's site, and he and
Jerry's have the same sale price of approx $75. If it is $100 in Michaels,
with the 40% off, that would make it in the 60s after sales tax. I am really
leaning towards this. I can see where Ellice is coming from with the 450,
But I won't be doimg that much. My cataract interferes a little, so I want
to do a lot of small projects, and can't see shelling out big bucks for
framing! If I do something important, then my superb framer will get the
job! She always gives me a 10% discount, as preferred customer!
Gillian
"animaux" <ani...@iays.com> wrote in message
news:b48drvgpda0d78m2b...@4ax.com...
> I would love the 301. I wanted to first see how well I did with the 2000,
and I
> already have the t-square from another really crappy Xacto unit.
>
> I would think getting that for a gift would be most luxurious! At least
it's
> something you actually want and can use.
>
> As for mat board, it depends on what kind of mat board. For ordinary, in
stock
> colors, the price ranges between 5 dollars and up. There are a lot of
different
> factors. Do you want a white bevel on black mat, black bevel, special
colors,
> textures. The price she quoted was not, could not possibly be for
ordinary, in
> stock mat board. However, the boards are 36x48, so rather large.
>
> I wish my mom would hint around to me. It sure does make it so much
easier
> when I know what she could use.
>
> V
>
>
> On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 19:50:42 GMT, "Gillian Murray"
<gillm...@mindspring.com>
> opined:
Joan Erickson
> I also really like suede mats with a lot of needlework pieces. A very
> rich look.
I agree. I've used it on both my Bull Elk and Fire & Ice designs. It
really adds a lot, IMO.
--
Joan
See my first-ever design here:
http://www.heritageshoppe.com/joan.jpg
"Stitch when you are young and poor, frame when you are old and rich."
- Elizabeth's (rctn'r) sister's MIL (Barbara Marr)
Ellice
Darla - I bet that looks awesome. I actually have that in the
not-yet-started pile. It's been sitting there for quite a while, but I know
one day it will get done. Someone picked it for me to do - having to do with
my nickname for having cat-type eyes.
I've used some mauve and greens with several sampler type pieces. Did a
wedding piece in overdyes, very simple - but framed with the purplish and
deep, soft green - double suede mats - looks awesome.
ellice
Ellice
> Well,
>
> The hated MIL paints, so I suggested that if I got the 301, then she could
> cut mat boards for her work, too. We looked at Dick Blick's site, and he and
> Jerry's have the same sale price of approx $75. If it is $100 in Michaels,
> with the 40% off, that would make it in the 60s after sales tax. I am really
> leaning towards this. I can see where Ellice is coming from with the 450,
> But I won't be doimg that much. My cataract interferes a little, so I want
> to do a lot of small projects, and can't see shelling out big bucks for
> framing! If I do something important, then my superb framer will get the
> job! She always gives me a 10% discount, as preferred customer!
Sounds like a good plan, Gillian. In partiular, if you're buying the 1/2
sheets of mat board, it will work well for you. Then the shorter side will
fit into the cutting mechanism for your first cut, and when you turn it, the
formerly longer side will fit in.
Even with a built-in squaring mechanism, the cutter still needs to be
re-squared occassionally. In the shop, we have to be careful if there are a
few of us working not to bump into one of the extensions - usually when
going to the fridge.
Even though I can do my mats in the shop, I've been thinking about getting
the 450, and then it's quicker for me to do my mats for display of painted
works - just a marketing idea for the trade shows. And, another toy -
that's useful!!!
Have a good time, and buy some of the cheapest mat board to practice with
before you cut the real pieces. Make sure you do all your measurements on
the back - so you're not marking up the front of the piece. And what's the
angle of your bevel. If you can take a short adult ed framing class, it's
worth it - or buy one of those little books. You could turn into a mat
cutting whiz!
ellice
Lucille
I too have my cat's eyes matted with a black suede. I did mine in
petit-point and did the eyes with just a tiny bit of glitter and I've been
told by friends that the piece is beautiful
Lucille
"Ellice" <Ell...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:BBDE761F.C66A%Ell...@cox.net...
Ellice
> As I've always heard "Great minds think alike," or something like that.
>
> I too have my cat's eyes matted with a black suede. I did mine in
> petit-point and did the eyes with just a tiny bit of glitter and I've been
> told by friends that the piece is beautiful
>
Sounds gorgeous. What a great idea, putting a tiny bit of glitter - probably
gives a nice life-like glistening effect.
Darn, now I really want to stitch - but have to finish mine & DH's take-home
(open book) ref certification tests - and get them in the mail by 8. Big
problem if we turn into pumpkins on Nov 30.
ellice
Cheryl Isaak
<Ell...@cox.net> wrote:
You are taking DH's test for him? Naughty naughty!
Cheryl
Ellice
> On 11/17/03 4:32 PM, in article BBDEA8B3.C69E%Ell...@cox.net, "Ellice"
> <Ell...@cox.net> wrote:
*snip*
>>
>> Darn, now I really want to stitch - but have to finish mine & DH's take-home
>> (open book) ref certification tests - and get them in the mail by 8. Big
>> problem if we turn into pumpkins on Nov 30.
>>
>> ellice
>>
> You are taking DH's test for him? Naughty naughty!
> Cheryl
Nah - it's standard practice for the open book, closed book is a different
story. The first year I was cert'ing I didn't know this, and worked my way
thru the booklet, turned in my test. Then a bunch of guys I knew said "oh,
yeah, we just get together over some beers and do it". Since then, it's been
done in all kinds of group efforts. New refs take a shorter test. The
further your cert level, the more serious (lengthy, difficult) the closed
book exam taken at certification seminar. And then the full 100 question
open book. A couple of our pals had a hot-tub party to do it. Not a pretty
picture. We've also done a review with young, youth officials - before they
send it in. The test sparks some good discussion. You'd be amazed at how
much there is to know, and how much some people don't know ;^)
The purpose of the open book is really to make you read the rule book,
including the glossary, and at the upper levels, the situation manuals,
handbooks. When we get ours in the mail, we usually go right thru it, put
initial answers, and then after a few days, go back and do it, writing down
all the rule citations with each question. In this case, we both forgot we
hadn't finished, and we have to have the test into Colorado, and new crests,
cards back in hand by Nov 30. So, I don't mind finishing for us both. I'll
make sure he reviews it ;^) USAH lets us mail in one envelope.
ellice
Cheryl Isaak
<Ell...@cox.net> wrote:
> On 11/17/03 4:33 PM,"Cheryl Isaak" <chery...@adelphia.net> posted:
>
>> On 11/17/03 4:32 PM, in article BBDEA8B3.C69E%Ell...@cox.net, "Ellice"
>> <Ell...@cox.net> wrote:
> *snip*
>>>
>>> Darn, now I really want to stitch - but have to finish mine & DH's take-home
>>> (open book) ref certification tests - and get them in the mail by 8. Big
>>> problem if we turn into pumpkins on Nov 30.
>>>
>>> ellice
>>>
>> You are taking DH's test for him? Naughty naughty!
>> Cheryl
>
> Nah - it's standard practice for the open book, closed book is a different
> story. The first year I was cert'ing I didn't know this, and worked my way
> thru the booklet, turned in my test. Then a bunch of guys I knew said "oh,
> yeah, we just get together over some beers and do it".
I think a few of the ones I've seen here lately need a drink before the game
to remember the rules then!
>
> Since then, it's been
> done in all kinds of group efforts. New refs take a shorter test. The
> further your cert level, the more serious (lengthy, difficult) the closed
> book exam taken at certification seminar. And then the full 100 question
> open book. A couple of our pals had a hot-tub party to do it. Not a pretty
> picture.
I don't even want to think about it!
>We've also done a review with young, youth officials - before they
> send it in. The test sparks some good discussion. You'd be amazed at how
> much there is to know, and how much some people don't know ;^)
No I wouldn't! LOL
>
> The purpose of the open book is really to make you read the rule book,
> including the glossary, and at the upper levels, the situation manuals,
> handbooks. When we get ours in the mail, we usually go right thru it, put
> initial answers, and then after a few days, go back and do it, writing down
> all the rule citations with each question. In this case, we both forgot we
> hadn't finished, and we have to have the test into Colorado, and new crests,
> cards back in hand by Nov 30. So, I don't mind finishing for us both. I'll
> make sure he reviews it ;^) USAH lets us mail in one envelope.
>
> ellice
Could I get my hands on a copy of the book for myself and my own
edification?
Cheryl
>
Darla
<luci...@nospamyahoo.net> wrote:
>I did mine in
>petit-point and did the eyes with just a tiny bit of glitter and I've been
>told by friends that the piece is beautiful
Oh, Lucille, that sounds awesome! I just did mine 2-over-2 on white
25-count Lugana.
Lucille
pupil of the eyes makes them look like they're following you. It was a bit
of a challenge but it did come out really nice.
Lucille
"Darla" <dar...@mindspring.clothescom> wrote in message
news:bjuirvoa9o5p7gidl...@4ax.com...
Ellice
> On 11/17/03 5:26 PM, in article BBDEB55A.C6B1%Ell...@cox.net, "Ellice"
> <Ell...@cox.net> wrote:
>
*snip*
>> The purpose of the open book is really to make you read the rule book,
>> including the glossary, and at the upper levels, the situation manuals,
>> handbooks. When we get ours in the mail, we usually go right thru it, put
>> initial answers, and then after a few days, go back and do it, writing down
>> all the rule citations with each question. In this case, we both forgot we
>> hadn't finished, and we have to have the test into Colorado, and new crests,
>> cards back in hand by Nov 30. So, I don't mind finishing for us both. I'll
>> make sure he reviews it ;^) USAH lets us mail in one envelope.
>>
>> ellice
>
> Could I get my hands on a copy of the book for myself and my own
> edification?
>
LOL - I don't think so - about the test. But, you could get the rule-book. I
don't know if you can just buy thru the USA Hockey site the Officiating
Manuals, and Situation Handbook. I think that the Basic Officiating Manual
would be interesting - if you care about learning why/how refs should skate,
where they're supposed to be when, what the movement mechanic is. There is
an Off-Ice Officials Manual, and a guidebook for parents - I'd definitely
get those. You can ask your club president/commissioner, or contact your
registrar. Each team is supposed to get a copy of the rules, the off-ice
book (I think). Anyhow, they're good for your club to have. There is also a
video for Off-ice officials.
I might be able to send you some Powerpoint stuff that we used for teaching
seminars in the SE District. We'll see.
ellice
Cheryl Isaak
<Ell...@cox.net> wrote:
> On 11/17/03 5:57 PM,"Cheryl Isaak" <chery...@adelphia.net> posted:
>
>> On 11/17/03 5:26 PM, in article BBDEB55A.C6B1%Ell...@cox.net, "Ellice"
>> <Ell...@cox.net> wrote:
>>
> *snip*
>>> The purpose of the open book is really to make you read the rule book,
>>> including the glossary, and at the upper levels, the situation manuals,
>>> handbooks. When we get ours in the mail, we usually go right thru it, put
>>> initial answers, and then after a few days, go back and do it, writing down
>>> all the rule citations with each question. In this case, we both forgot we
>>> hadn't finished, and we have to have the test into Colorado, and new crests,
>>> cards back in hand by Nov 30. So, I don't mind finishing for us both. I'll
>>> make sure he reviews it ;^) USAH lets us mail in one envelope.
>>>
>>> ellice
>>
>> Could I get my hands on a copy of the book for myself and my own
>> edification?
>>
> LOL - I don't think so - about the test. But, you could get the rule-book.
Thanks it all I want!
I
> don't know if you can just buy thru the USA Hockey site the Officiating
> Manuals, and Situation Handbook. I think that the Basic Officiating Manual
> would be interesting - if you care about learning why/how refs should skate,
> where they're supposed to be when, what the movement mechanic is. There is
> an Off-Ice Officials Manual, and a guidebook for parents - I'd definitely
> get those. You can ask your club president/commissioner, or contact your
> registrar.
I just might do that!
Just heard on the news that the Monarchs will be hosting the AHL All-Star
game in Feb. Wonder what the ticket prices will be like!
Cheryl
Ellice
> On 11/18/03 1:39 PM, in article BBDFD1AA.C731%Ell...@cox.net, "Ellice"
> <Ell...@cox.net> wrote:
>
>>>
>> LOL - I don't think so - about the test. But, you could get the rule-book.
>
> Thanks it all I want!
The rule book is downloadable in PDF from the USA Hockey web site. We
downloaded it in the summer, and printed it 4 pages to a sheet. It's free to
refs, and costs $10 to buy - but each team is supposed to get 1 copy when
they register.
>
> I
>> don't know if you can just buy thru the USA Hockey site the Officiating
>> Manuals, and Situation Handbook. I think that the Basic Officiating Manual
>> would be interesting - if you care about learning why/how refs should skate,
>> where they're supposed to be when, what the movement mechanic is. There is
>> an Off-Ice Officials Manual, and a guidebook for parents - I'd definitely
>> get those. You can ask your club president/commissioner, or contact your
>> registrar.
> I just might do that!
You go girl!
> Just heard on the news that the Monarchs will be hosting the AHL All-Star
> game in Feb. Wonder what the ticket prices will be like!
More than you're used to paying, but nothing compared to NHL tix. You
should definitely go - it'll be such fun.
ellice
Cheryl Isaak
>> Just heard on the news that the Monarchs will be hosting the AHL All-Star
>> game in Feb. Wonder what the ticket prices will be like!
>
> More than you're used to paying, but nothing compared to NHL tix. You
> should definitely go - it'll be such fun.
>
> ellice
>
of us to sit at ice level and for food and parking, wouldn't have paid for 4
tickets to the Fleete (aka Fleece) Center in the nose bleed section, I'll go
to an AHL game any day of the week and have a blast!
Cheryl