deep water glaze effect wanted
¬Stephen Hammond
I would like to create a deep water glaze effect as I am doing a clay
version of Monet gardens does anyone have a suggestion?
Here are my other masterpieces :)
http://www.hammonds.freeserve.co.uk/mypottery.html
Thanks
Stephen
James Aberle
...i don't know about the water effect...but this is the place to
ask...but i did check your previous works...very very nice...and
interesting idea to wrk from the impressionists and other
painters....you defintley got the emotional feel of the paintings....jim
CNB
are lots of glazes out there. By deep water effect do you mean a transparent
dark blue? Guess I ought to take a look at Monet gardens.
Crystal
"ŹStephen Hammond" <Steph...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bu8h6n$prq$1$830f...@news.demon.co.uk...
Slgraber
seeme especially great when used OVER iron based glazes too. a "jensen blue"
over "tenmoku" might do what you want. i ususally buy my glazes dry-premixed
from aardvark in santa ana, but get the same-similar from laguna clay at times
too. (a more USA nation wide source)
i do cone 10 reduction glazing on stoneware &/or porcelain.
steve
>Date: 1/16/2004 3:16 AM Pacific Standard Time
>Message-id: <bu8h6n$prq$1$830f...@news.demon.co.uk>
steve graber
¬Stephen Hammond
> >version of Monet gardens does anyone have a suggestion?
> >Here are my other masterpieces :)
> >
> >http://www.hammonds.freeserve.co.uk/mypottery.html
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Stephen
> i think you might want to try rutile based glazes for a watery affect.
they
> seeme especially great when used OVER iron based glazes too. a "jensen
blue"
> over "tenmoku" might do what you want. i ususally buy my glazes
dry-premixed
> from aardvark in santa ana, but get the same-similar from laguna clay at
times
> too. (a more USA nation wide source)
>
> i do cone 10 reduction glazing on stoneware &/or porcelain.
>
> steve
I suppose I should have mentioned I'm in the UK ! The dollar is quite weak
at the moment so that's good.
Thanks though. I'll have to find out what clay I use and temps. I just use
the facilities at the local Adult Education.
I leave all that to them.
I use Duncan based colours for the main colours.
http://www.potterycrafts.co.uk/products/colours/covercoat.html
Have you any pictures of rutile based glazes.
Thanks
Stephen
Marty Kenny
Steph...@hotmail.com wrote on 1/16/04 5:16 AM:
In the area of the pond use a wash of cobalt sulphate.
Make a mixture by volume 12/1 water/sulphate.
Pretend you are doing a water color (by the way Monet's gardens aren' deep
water) on the green dry clay of the pond. Draw the brush areas first with a
pencil because you won't be able to see the sulphate when dry. Do various
layers but leave uncovered areas as well for light reflections. 3/4 coats a
deep blue.
Then glaze that area with clear.
If you want greenery use copper sulphate (oxidation firing) for green. Same
mixture but you will need more layers to get a strong green.
Marty
¬Stephen Hammond
>
> >
> > I would like to create a deep water glaze effect as I am doing a clay
> > version of Monet gardens does anyone have a suggestion?
> > Here are my other masterpieces :)
> >
> > http://www.hammonds.freeserve.co.uk/mypottery.html
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Stephen
> >
> >
> In the area of the pond use a wash of cobalt sulphate.
> Make a mixture by volume 12/1 water/sulphate.
> Pretend you are doing a water color (by the way Monet's gardens aren' deep
> water) on the green dry clay of the pond. Draw the brush areas first with
a
> pencil because you won't be able to see the sulphate when dry. Do various
> layers but leave uncovered areas as well for light reflections. 3/4 coats
a
> deep blue.
>
> Then glaze that area with clear.
>
> If you want greenery use copper sulphate (oxidation firing) for green.
Same
> mixture but you will need more layers to get a strong green.
>
> Marty
I'm going to use the colours at www.potterycraft.co.uk I want to know how to
do a deep glaze !
Oh well guess it can't be done
Stephen
CNB
to the bottom? As if it were water in a pond? If that's what you mean I have
an idea. After your piece is done and the pond is glazed blue you can cut a
piece of glass that fits the pond. It would help, I think, if the pond was
indented as deep as the thickness of the glass. Refire the piece to the
glass melting point which is 1300 degrees F (approx 704C according to my
converter). I saw this done on a show by a potter that combines clay with
glass. You may have to fire above that temperature to make it stick or
depending on how thick the glass I'm not sure. You might want to do a little
test piece and see how it works for you. I've never done it but it sounded
interesting to me. I may try it one day. I hope this helps and let me know
if it works for you.
Good luck,
Crystal
"¬Stephen Hammond" <Steph...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bv3dja$ock$1$8300...@news.demon.co.uk...
Bob Masta
wrote:
>I'm not sure what you mean by "Deep Glaze". Do you mean that you see thru it
>to the bottom? As if it were water in a pond? If that's what you mean I have
>an idea. After your piece is done and the pond is glazed blue you can cut a
>piece of glass that fits the pond. It would help, I think, if the pond was
>indented as deep as the thickness of the glass. Refire the piece to the
>glass melting point which is 1300 degrees F (approx 704C according to my
>converter). I saw this done on a show by a potter that combines clay with
>glass. You may have to fire above that temperature to make it stick or
>depending on how thick the glass I'm not sure. You might want to do a little
>test piece and see how it works for you. I've never done it but it sounded
>interesting to me. I may try it one day. I hope this helps and let me know
>if it works for you.
>Good luck,
>Crystal
One thing to watch out for here is that the glass may not have the
same expansion rate as the clay body. When I've tried this method,
melting a marble on top of a flat piece, the glass had big cracks
afterward. I liked the effect in what I was doing, but it might not
make a very convincing "water".
My cracking might be because it was quite thick (1/8 inch or so),
so you may be OK with thinner glass. Or you may have to try to
match expansion rates somehow.
How about a thick clear glaze over a blue stain? Maybe add
just a hint of copper or cobalt to the glaze. Or you can paint
copper sulphate solution over the dry clear glaze, which allows
you to have an uneven blue-green mottling with some depth
that might help simulate water. I've used this to get greenish
mottling on blue glazes, but never actually tried to ,ake it look like
water.
Bob Masta
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