[FAQ]how to dry flowers!

[Rudolf Appelt]

this is a file i got trough Gophermail. I changed it into
70 columns

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Rudolf

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Rudolf Appelt %-<I> drunk with laughter
dee...@tom.fe.up.pt
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When a stupid man is doing something he is ashamed of, he always declares
that it is his duty. -George Bernard Shaw

(70 columns)

Name: G06540 Drying Flowers and Foliage for Arrangements (75 cents)
Agricultural publication G06540 -- Reviewed October 1, 1993
Ray R. Rothenberger
Department of Horticulture, University of Missouri-Columbia

Why dry flowers?
1. Dried plant materials provide distinctive indoor decoration.
2. Arrangements made from dried materials are long lasting and require little care.
3. Drying flowers and foliage expands gardening activities without elaborate equipment or
previous experience.
4. Drying flowers is inexpensive.

Collecting flowers for drying
Flowers and other plant materials for drying should be picked close to their prime. Flowers to
be air-dried continue to open as they dry; therefore such flowers should not be fully open at
picking. Never place wilted flowers into drying mixtures.
Flowers or leaves for drying may be collected at any time during the growing season from
early spring until late fall. Always collect more material than is needed, to allow for damage.
Use only the most perfect forms. Poor shapes dry as poor shapes. Use only plants and flowers
free of insect and disease damage. Damage becomes only more obvious after drying. Pick
flowers when they are free of dew or rain. Place stems promptly in a container of water to
prevent wilting while gathering.
It is sometimes difficult to develop graceful lines when making dried flower arrangements.
Therefore, while collecting, look for branches and stems with sweeping curves or lines that will
add distinctiveness to the arrangement. If none can be found, curves or other lines can be made
by shaping the branches or stems into the desired positions while they dry.
In addition to flowers, stems and leaves that may be dried indoors, there are many materials
that can be collected in the fall and used almost directly in arrangements after gathering. These
include many seed pods, cones, grain, grasses and berries found in the garden as well as in
fields and roadsides.

Methods for drying flowers
Air drying There are a number of garden flowers, as well as wild plants, that can be dried
simply by hanging them upside down in a warm, dry place for several weeks. Flowers best
suited to this are the "everlastings" and a few others that do not wilt readily. Some, such as
globe amaranth, can be dried in bunches on their natural stems. Others, such as strawflower,
should have a wire substituted for stems before drying.

Steps for air drying
1. Cut flowers of good quality at prime conditions or slightly immature.
2. Remove foliage from stems. If stems are weak or become brittle after drying, remove them
and wire the flowers.
3. Group the stems into small bunches and tie with a rubber band. It will pull tighter as the
stems shrink during drying.
4. Hang upside down in a warm, dry, dark area such as an attic, closet or furnace room. Avoid
damp rooms or direct sun on the flowers. Good air circulation is important.
5. Allow to remain until thoroughly dried. This normally takes two to three weeks.

Natural stems dried in this process will generally be fairly straight. These may be bent for
arranging by submerging the stems in warm water until they have softened. Then, bend them to
the desired position and weight them in that position until they have dried. Some may be laid
on curved cardboard to conform to the curvature as they dry.
In addition to the garden flowers and everlastings that may be air dried, many seed heads of
grasses and other plants can be hung to dry. Even a few large flowers, such as peony and
hydrangea, are sometimes dried in this way. However, since they are quite large, they should
be hung individually rather than in bunches (see Table 1).

Table 1. Flowers for air drying.
Acroclinium, Swan River Everlasting
Baby's breath
Bachelor's button
Bells of Ireland
Cockscomb
Edelweiss
Globe amaranth
LarkspurScarlet sage and blue sage
Sea lavender
Statice
Strawflower
Xeranthemum, immortelle
Yarrow (yellow varieties best)

Grasses suitable for drying include Bristly foxtail, Hare's-tail grass, Fountain grass, Pampas
grass, Eulalia grass, Quaking grass, Spike grass and Squirrel-tail grass.

Seed heads include Cat-tail, Dock, Honesty (Money Plant), Iris, Lily, Milkweed, Mullein,
Poppy, Queen Anne's Lace, Teasel and many others.

Pressing
Pressed flowers are especially suitable for flower pictures, as well as decoration on
note paper, place cards and many other items.
Collecting for pressing. Use flowers for pressing that are in prime condition. Also, use flowers
with different stages of development up to full maturity for more variety in design. Avoid
plants with fleshy stems and leaves as well as flowers with very thin petals. Don't try to press
wilted materials. Flowers that are flat, such as pansies, press best.

Methods for pressing
The faster flowers dry, the better they retain color. On the other hand,
flowers can't be exposed to excessively high temperatures. Although they may dry quickly,
they will turn brown.
Pressing requires sandwiching flowers and foliage between layers of an absorbent material.
This should be clean and hold the flowers firmly and flat during the drying process. Porous
materials that allow some air movement are also beneficial.
Flowers are generally placed between a non-glossy type of paper. Newspapers, old telephone
directories or catalogs are suitable. Absorbent facial tissues placed on the pages aid rapid
moisture absorption. Tissues should be removed and flowers or foliage replaced between fresh,
dry tissues and papers at the end of the first week. After the flowers and tissues have been
placed in the folded newspapers or books, stack them several layers deep. Place boards
beneath and on top of the stack. Put the stack in a warm, dry place with a heavy weight on
top.

Another very satisfactory system suitable for drying flowers uses a combination of cardboard,
newspaper and desk-sized blotter pads. Corrugated cardboard is cut into sheets slightly larger
than the sheets of folded newspaper. Flowers are positioned on one side of the opened
newspaper. Then the newspaper is closed and a sheet of blotter paper placed on either side.

After all flowers have been placed between the newspapers, blotter paper and cardboard, the
layers are stacked and tied or taped together. They should then be placed in a warm, well-
ventilated place and weighted. If large numbers of flowers are pressed, write a date on the
stacks to keep track of drying time. Special presses can be purchased or constructed for drying
large quantities of materials.
The flowers listed in Table 2 produce good results when pressed. However, there are many
others that may be used, and experimentation with those available is suggested.

Table 2. Flowers for pressing.
Ageratum
Alyssum
Anemone
Azalea
Bleeding heart
Buttercup
Butterfly weed
Candytuft
Celosia, cockscomb
Chrysanthemum
Columbine
Cornflower, bachelor's button
Cosmos
Crocus
Daffodil
Daisy
Delphinium
Dutchman's breeches
Geranium
Golden red
Heath
Heather
Hydrangea
Johnny-jump-up
Larkspur
Lily-of-the-valley
Marigold
Nemesia
Pansy
Phlox
Primula
Queen Anne's lace
Rose
Salvia
Statice
Sweet pea
Verbena
Zinnia

Drying mixtures for burying flowers
Flowers may be dried in their natural form by totally burying the flowers in one of several
materials.
Borax combined with sand or cornmeal. One of the least expensive mixes for drying flowers is
made from sand and borax. The sand must be fine, clean and dry. Sand is relatively heavy to
work with and tends to flatten flowers unless used very carefully.
A more popular mixture for drying is made of equal parts of borax and white cornmeal. The
cornmeal is light weight and has less tendency to flatten flowers. It also makes boxes easier to
handle and move after filling. The main function of these materials is to hold the petals in place
while they dry naturally. Good aeration is important for rapid drying. Some people feel that the
addition of about three tablespoons of non-iodized salt per quart of mix helps petals retain
color during drying. The ratio of borax to sand or cornmeal varies widely, but the quality of
drying does not seem to differ greatly between them. Ratios varying from 1:1 to 1:6 have been
used (first number refers to borax).

Silica gel
In general, the most satisfactory material for drying flowers at home is silica gel.
Initial cost is greater than that of borax-sand or borax-cornmeal combinations, but it can be
used over and over for many years. Since it dries flowers quickly, more flowers can be moved
in and out of the mixture during a single season than in the same quantity of a borax mixture.
Silica gel is available under a number of trade names. It is white, but some types contain blue
crystals that act as an indicator of the amount of moisture which has been absorbed. When
these crystals are a clear blue the material is dry. As the moisture is absorbed from the flowers,
the crystals gradually turn pink. At that point it is time to redry before using again.
To dry the material, spread the silica gel on open pans or cookie sheets in a layer 1/2 to 3/4
inch thick. Bake in an oven at about 250 degrees until the crystals are blue again. This may
take about an hour. Stir the crystals several times while they are drying. Keep unused silica gel
in air-tight containers.

Burying flowers for drying
The method for burying flowers in any of these materials is essentially the same. However,
there are some differences in the types of containers to use, as well as drying with either
natural stems or wire stems.

Containers
Flowers dried in borax mixtures should be left uncovered during the drying
process. Therefore, low cardboard boxes with tight, strong bottoms are ideal. This allows
good air movement throughout the mixture, and if desired, stems may be left attached and
sticking out of the mix to air dry.
Flowers dried in silica gel must be placed in air-tight containers. If the containers are not sealed
tightly, the silica gel absorbs moisture from the air, and flowers dry too slowly or not at all.
Candy tins, plastic containers, coffee cans, large-mouth jars, or any other container with a tight
fitting lid may be used. If nothing with a tight lid is available, seal loose tops with tape.
Use shallow containers to make maximum use of the drying material. The natural stem should
be removed before drying most flowers in silica gel. Therefore, flowers wired before drying are
more easily arranged later.

Wiring
Two techniques of wiring may be used -- hook wiring and cross wiring. Hook wiring
may be used for daisies, marigolds, zinnias, or other flowers with soft centers. Flowers with a
harder base or center, such as roses, should be cross wired.
To hook wire a flower, use about a 20 to 24 gauge wire and push it upward through the center
of the stem, if hollow, or through about the center of the flower. Push it out the top of the
flower, bend a small hook in the end of the wire and pull it back into the flower, hooking the
center. Make sure that the small hook is well hidden in the flower's center. If it is not, as the
flower dries, it will become visible.
To cross wire a flower, push the wire through the base of the flower at right angles to the
stem. The wire is centered in the flower base, and both ends are then bent down to form a
short stem.
In shallow containers, the wires may be bent several times or simply bent out of the way for
drying. Later, they can be straightened after the flowers have dried and other wires added to
prepare them for arranging.
Types of flowers that may be dried in silica gel and the other materials are almost limitless.
However, some are more satisfactory than others and are best for the beginner. Any flowers
that readily shed their petals, such as poppies, are unsuitable. The list in Table 3 names some
flowers worth trying.

Table 3. Flower for burying.

Anemone
Aster
Baby's breath
Bachelor's button
Black-eyed Susan
Blue sage
Chrysanthemum
Daffodil
Dahlia
Daisy
Delphinium
Gloriosa daisy
Hyacinth
Larkspur
Lilac
Lily-of-the-valley
Marigold
Nierembergia
Pansy
Peony
Rose
Salvia
Scarlet sage
Snapdragon
Stock
Verbena
Zinnia

As most of these flowers dry, colors will darken. Therefore, extremely dark flowers, especially
in the red, purple and blue ranges, may become almost black after drying. Whites generally
develop a cream or tan color.

Burying the flowers
Flowers with wired stems are dried facing upward, and the stems are
bent or curled to lie parallel to the bottom and out of the way. Flowers on natural stems may
be dried on their sides (as in the case of spike flowers such as larkspur or snapdragon) or
upside down with stems protruding upward. Working the drying agent between the petals is
difficult when flowers are placed facing downward. When placing flowers on the side, a brace
is necessary to hold the stems so flowers on one side are not flattened.

To dry flowers facing upward:
1. Place a layer of drying material in the bottom of the container about 1 to 2 inches deep.
2. Bend the wire stems to the side or curl up.
3. Place the flower on the layer of material in the bottom of the container. Push wire stem
down into material.
4. Gently work the base of the flower into the material so it is well situated, petals supported
and in a normal position.
5. Gently sift the material over the petals, making sure that all petals remain in place as the
material is added.
6. If any petals are bent, use a toothpick or similar item to reposition them.
7. Continue to add material until each flower is entirely covered.
8. After all flowers have been added and covered, lift the container and tap it gently on the
base to help settle the material.
9. After tapping, make sure all petals are still covered. If any have been exposed, add more
drying material.
10. Prepare for storage.
a. Borax combinations can be placed directly in a warm dry place without covering. Drying
will normally take two to three weeks.
b. Silica gel should be tightly covered or sealed if the lid is not air tight. Flowers should dry
in three to eight days. The exact time varies with the thickness of the flower. If removed too
soon, petals will droop. If removed too late, petals become brittle and break easily.

Removing flowers from the mixtures
Since petals become fairly brittle after drying, care is
important when removing flowers from the mixture. Pour off or gently brush to one side some
of the mixture on the surface of the container. As petals become visible, gently lift the flowers
upward by placing the fingers beneath them. Turn each flower upside down after removal and
tap out any remaining residue. If a white dust remains, remove it by carefully brushing with a
soft, dry artist's brush or gentle stream of air.
Some flowers, such as chrysanthemum, drop petals easily. These can be reinforced by
dropping glue on the bottom at the base of the petals. Use a glue that becomes clear after
drying.

Adding stems for arranging
Flowers often need wire in the stem for arranging. A heavier
wire, such as 18 gauge, may be used. Simply twist the short wire that was placed in the flower
around the stem-wire and wrap them together with floral tape.

Microwave oven drying
Microwave drying takes only a few minutes and provides dried flowers that look fresher and
more colorful than those obtained by other methods. Support material such as silica gel must
surround and support the flowers during heating and drying. Use heat-tolerant glass or
microwave containers. Do not cover the containers. Place a cup of water in the oven before
starting to help prevent excessive drying.
Drying times vary from about 3 minutes for very dense flowers with a lot of petals to about 1
minute for smaller or thinner-petaled flowers. Since ovens and flowers vary, experimentation
will be required.
After treatment is complete, leave flowers in the silica gel for 12 to 24 hours to make sure they
are cooled and dried. Since microwave-dried flowers tend to absorb air moisture, spray the
petals with hair spray or lacquer. For long term storage, keep them in an airtight container.

Storing dried material
Dried materials in storage may occasionally be attacked by one or more household insects such
as museum beetles, silverfish, roaches or others closely related to them. As they chew on the
soft tissue of the plant centers, flowers may shatter and fall apart. They are not necessarily on
the flowers as they come from the garden but move into the boxes in the home during storage.
Occasionally check boxes, and if insects are present, destroy the infected materials. Tightly
sealed containers prevent invasion. If the pests are present, thoroughly clean the container
before using it again. Naphthalene flakes may repel insects or some general insecticides may
help control them, but once an area is infested, complete eradication is difficult. Cleanliness
and persistence are the best means of remedying the situation.
Don't consider dried flowers as everlasting. Preferably, they should be replaced yearly, but with
good care they often last longer. Even the best dried flowers gradually fade and should be
discarded when they no longer produce the desired effect. Flowers that tend to fade may be
lightly tinted with aerosol paints or dyes for more durable color. With care, the natural look is
preserved.

Preserving foliage with glycerin
The dried flower arrangement without foliage may seem stiff and unnatural. Leaves add much
to an arrangement and can easily be preserved by a process known as "glycerinizing." This
technique makes the leaves and stems soft, pliable and long lasting so they may be used over
and over.
1. Select branches with the desired curves and with foliage that is not damaged by insects or
disease. In general, a branch about 18 inches or less in length is best for glycerinizing.
2. Remove lower leaves, and crush or split the stem end of wood materials to increase
absorption.
3. Make a mixture of one part glycerin and two parts warm water. Stir well and pour into
containers so the liquid is about 4 to 5 inches deep.
4. Mark the level of the mixture on the container (glass containers are best) and place the stem
end of branches into it.
5. As the branches absorb the mixture, add a reserve mixture which contains one part glycerin
to four parts water to the original marked level.

Foliage color will gradually change as the glycerin is absorbed. It will take from one to three
weeks for most branches to glycerinize.
Some leaves, especially thick and waxy ones, may not glycerinize well by this method.
Individual leaves of plants such as ivy or southern magnolia may be glycerinized by totally
submerging the leaves into the mixture. They should be placed in a single layer and weighted
to keep them beneath the liquid. After they become soft and pliable (2 to 6 days) they should
be removed. After removal, drain and wipe the leaves clean with a soft cloth.
In addition to glycerinizing, leaves may also be dried with the same
techniques used for drying flowers. However, they become brittle and must be handled very
carefully.
Table 4 covers some plants most easily glycerinized. House plants, trees, shrubs, florist's
foliage and garden flowers are included.

Table 4. Leaves for glycerinizing.
Anthurium
Aspidistra
Beech
Cotoneaster
Crabapple
Dracaena
English ivy
Galax
Lemon
Magnolia
Mountain ash
Maples
Oaks
Orange holly-grape
Peony
Periwinkle
Purple-leaf plum
Poplar, white or silver
Quince, flowering
Russian olive
Salal
Spirea
Sweet gum
Ti plant
Weigela