decorative painting on tiles
Cricket
out there? I am doing an area approximately 30" x 12" (above my stove)
Thanks for the help.
JGEverts
I've painted on glassware before, which is almost the same thing. Before you
paint, clean the tiles with rubbing alcohol. Then, if you're using a
pattern, transfer it on, and then paint it in. But buy a good paint that is
made for glass and tile. (I use Delta PermEnamel air-dry paint). The final
step is to either: (1)apply a sealer (when using Delta's brand), or (2)bake
the tile to set the paint (if using a different brand) and you're done.
Hope this helps!
Jeannine
Cricket <cri...@si.rr.com> wrote in message
news:9c9db5dc.02012...@posting.google.com...
JGEverts
I've painted on glassware before, which is almost the same thing. Before you
paint, clean the tiles with rubbing alcohol. Then, if you're using a
pattern, transfer it on, and then paint it in. But buy a good paint that is
made for glass and tile. (I use Delta PermEnamel air-dry paint). The final
step is to either: (1)apply a sealer (when using Delta's brand), or (2)bake
the tile to set the paint (if using a different brand) and you're done.
Hope this helps!
Jeannine
Cricket <cri...@si.rr.com> wrote in message
news:9c9db5dc.02012...@posting.google.com...
Pat Kight
> Hi,
>
> I've painted on glassware before, which is almost the same thing. Before you
> paint, clean the tiles with rubbing alcohol. Then, if you're using a
> pattern, transfer it on, and then paint it in. But buy a good paint that is
> made for glass and tile. (I use Delta PermEnamel air-dry paint). The final
> step is to either: (1)apply a sealer (when using Delta's brand), or (2)bake
> the tile to set the paint (if using a different brand) and you're done.
Since Cricket mentioned painting an area above her stove, I'm guessing
the tiles are already in place, so the baking in the oven part probably
won't work - but the PermEnamel is a pretty good product even without
baking, as long as you take care when cleaning the area afterward (no
abrasive cleaners!)
My own kitchen has a lot of plain white tile, and I've been toying with
ideas for decorating it. The location of the area I want to decorate
(behind the sink and surrounded by overhead cabinets) makes it awkward
for painting, and my painting skills aren't that sharp.
But I think I've found a pretty good solution: LazerTran, an
artist-quality transfer paper that can be run through a commercial color
copier to make transparent water-slip decals with remarkably crisp
detail and color depth. I've been playing with it on some
collage/assemblage projects, and it's just remarkable - much easier to
work with than I'd imagined, and the results are gorgeous.
So my game plan is to put together a food-related collage of old
engravings and the like, copy it onto the LazerTran and apply the decals
to the tile, finishing with a clear acrylic sealer.
I haven't yet found a store where you can buy the stuff, but they have a
Web site at http://www.lazertran.com/ with a lot of inspiring artwork.
It's not cheap, but you can cram a *lot* of images on one sheet.
--Pat Kight
kig...@peak.org
Dianna Visek
What kind of collage/assemblage are you doing? And how fade-proof are
the decals?
Thanks, Dianna
On Mon, 28 Jan 2002 09:54:26 -0800, Pat Kight <Pat....@orst.edu>
wrote:
<snip>
Pat Kight
> Pat,
>
> What kind of collage/assemblage are you doing?
Well, one friend refers to them this way: "It must be art, 'cause it's
too weird to give people for their birthdays and it would never sell in
a craft fair or gift shop." Wooden (usually)
boxes/crates/chests/cabinets/ and similar containers, layered with
images and words (old engravings, computer-generated,
hand-drawn-and-scanned, stamped, painted), glazed and overpainted
scratched and embellished with old hardware and then filled with found
or made objects. Each has a definite narrative component (at heart, I'm
a story-teller), but the result is ... dreamlike. Or nightmarish,
depending on the theme. Some of them emerge as shrines. Others are more
like treasure chests, or Pandora's box. All of them owe a lot to the
spirit of Joseph Cornell.
Hard to describe. I need to take some pictures and get them up on my Web
site one of these days.
> And how fade-proof are
> the decals?
According to the manfacturer's FAQ ( http://www.lazertran.com/faq.htm ),
as fade-proof as the toner of the color copier used to make the image.
Specifically, they say:
"The Tate Gallery Conservation Dept has tested toners on Lazertran for
longevity in a gallery situation. They found that after 80 years the
yellow toner starts to fade. In direct sunlight a UV filter varnish is
required..."
One of the things that's exciting to me about this product is that there
are six or seven different ways of applying and fixing it, depending
on the surface you're working with (ceramic/glass, wood, fabric
(including silk), various kinds of paper). You can even use it to affix
an image to a three-dimensional substrate, by warming it with a
blow-dryer after applying and gently stretching it to fit the shape.
--Pat Kight
kig...@peak.org
Dianna Visek
Chicago. Cool stuff.
I just looked at the LazerTran site. Which of the transfer methods
have you used? How easy are they? (Their directions are a little
non-English.)
Do you use the UV filter coatings? (I just bought the one made by
Krylon.)
I did a search on "transfer process" a couple of days ago and didn't
find much of interest. Then I saw your post. Eureka!
Thanks much, Dianna
On Mon, 28 Jan 2002 16:24:03 -0800, Pat Kight <Pat....@orst.edu>
wrote:
>Dianna Visek wrote:
BJBear5103
paint to use? should they be re-glazed, or baked in an oven to set the paint?
thanks for any info! michael
Pat Kight
>
> I'm familiar with Joseph Cornell's works in the Art Institute in
> Chicago. Cool stuff.
>
> I just looked at the LazerTran site. Which of the transfer methods
> have you used? How easy are they? (Their directions are a little
> non-English.)
So far I've just played with the standard water-slip process, applied to
ceramic tile and heavily painted wood. It was a lot easier than I
expected - the decals are very thin, but easy to handle when wet. Having
a hand-held squeegee helped a lot.
The instructions on the Web site are the same ones packaged with the
product, and yes, a little sketchy. I found better instructions in the
September-October 2000 issue of Somerset Studio magazine, where I first
read about the product. The writer and artist, Robin Schoenfeld, gives
very explict, step-by-step instructions for several of the transfer
methods. If you do a google search for "Lazertran," you'll find a pretty
comprehensive product review by a polymer clay artist of how the stuff
works on that medium (I seem to have had uniformly better results on
wood than she did on the clay; apparently, heat-curing can be tricky).
> Do you use the UV filter coatings? (I just bought the one made by
> Krylon.)
I've got some and will be using it as a final coat on the project. I'm
not sure whether I expect any of my stuff to be around in 80 years, but
if it is, it would be nice if it still looked good.
>
> I did a search on "transfer process" a couple of days ago and didn't
> find much of interest. Then I saw your post. Eureka!
I've been doing "spirit transfers" for a couple of years using
black-and-white photocopies and either acetone or mineral spirits to
transfer the image to paper (and occasionally wood). It's miserably
toxic (I don't have a respirator, so I only do this outside, in fair
weather), and while the transfers are always interesting, they're not
precise - and they're in reverse.
--Pat Kight
kig...@peak.org
Pat Kight
You can do it either way - if you live near one of those "paint your own
ceramics" type businesses, they'll probably be glad to let you come in
and reglaze your tiles and fire them in their kiln. Or you can buy the
Delta PermaColor paints and do it at home. The pieces can be heat-set in
your oven, or you can simply air dry them - they'll still be more or
less permanent.
--Pat Kight
kig...@peak.org
Dianna Visek
Gratefully, Dianna
Maureen Schorr
ago, I started collecting tiles - mostly used ones - just to see what I
could do with them. I have learned a lot through trial and error. Yes.
Tiles can be painted on...I find the ones from Italy a bit harder to deal
with - they don't always want to let the paint bond to them. What I do is
lightly sand the glaze to help the paint adhere better. Then, I make sure
the tiles are clean and free of any residue. I use a ceramic paint such as
those made by Delta, Plaid or Folkart Brands (Michaels and other craft
stores carry them). I put at least two coats of paint on them - making
sure they dry thoroughly inbetween coats. Then, after allowing them to dry
at least 12 hrs more, I seal them with clear acrylic sealer, or an outdoor
shellac (especially for tiles that will be used in the kitchen or bathroom
areas). This again, I use at least 2 coats of letting each dry thoroughly.
I allow 12 to 24 hrs for this to set, then, I follow up with a few coats
(very light ones, or else you risk bubbles when it dries) of
marble/tile/stone impregnator or impermenator (I've seen it called both).
One brand name is Miracle, I think. A little bit goes a long way with it.
In addition to painting tiles - either solid or with designs, I have also
decopauged them with various things cut out of magazines and catalogs (In
my kitchen, I have my backsplash tiled with tiles I first painted then
decopauged with old fashioned food ads I found in some old magazines). I
have also used my Dremel to etch designs into the tiles then have painted
them or have done other types of work with them. I might suggest that if
you're a little hesitant to jump right in on your project, that you call
around to companies in your area that supply and/or install tiles and ask
if they have any broken ones, ones they've taken out (ie used ones), or
other discards you can have or buy from them cheaply, then, try
experimenting on them. I was fortunate in that I ran across a place that
was moving but didn't want to move the tiles they had (It's a nonprofit
that sells donated building supplies) and was able to purchase 1,000
pounds of assorted tiles for $5 bucks - hauling them home wasn't much fun
I might add.
Good Luck,
Maureen
PhilipAllen
Sarah. Blaenau Ffestiniog.
"Maureen Schorr" <msc...@dslnorthwest.net> wrote in message
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