Weird screws, no idea how to remove
Ignoramus14738
up and a replacement was not too expensive ($21).
The problem is that it is attached with fasteners that have smooth
heads, mushroom shaped. No slot of any kind. I cannot seem to grab
them with pliers either.
Here's the picture with one of them circled:
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Smooth-Headed-Screw.jpg
The manual refers to these screws on page 24:
"#2 x 3/16 P.K. DRIVE SCREW"
Google does not bring up anything about these.
Would anyone have any idea how to remove them. I would replace them
with philips or slotted screws from Ace Hardware. But I need to remove
them first.
thanks a lot to all.
i
Pete Keillor
Ig, I've removed them by drilling, cold chisel, etc. Sometimes
they're in blind holes in castings. Here's a link to replacements in
McMaster: http://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-screws/=5ne37d
They are tapped in with a hammer to install.
Pete Keillor
Jim Wilkins
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600056
Pry them out. Maybe grind a notch in a putty knife?
jsw
dca...@krl.org
dykes, assuming they are brass.
Dan
Ignoramus14738
OK, Pete, thanks, I got it. I was confused by the name, as they are
not really screws, despite their name. After your post, I already
drove out three of them by prying them. The fourth is just a matter of
time.
i
Ignoramus14738
were "screws" and tried to screw them out, to no avail. The speed and
feed table was reinstalled, I am very happy. The effect is awesome,
like makeup on a 40 year old girl.
i
Jordan
>
> "#2 x 3/16 P.K. DRIVE SCREW"
>
I recently had the same problem. My cold chisel wasn't sharp enough, so
I ground the end of some 5/16" HSS square stock to a sharp bevel, about
20 degrees. Then narrowed down the sharp edge from 5/16" to more like
1/8". This was my chisel, and with a small hammer I was able to get
under the head with minimal damage to the aluminium label. To finish
removal, I got some small pincers - actually from an electronics shop -
and dressed the jaws on the bench grinder to remove the slight bevels
along the tops of the jaws that would otherwise not allow them to get
under the screw heads. As there's a spiral on drive screws, give a twist
as you pull them out.
Jordan
Larry Jaques
<ignoram...@NOSPAM.14738.invalid> scrawled the following:
Saw a slot in 'em and unscrew? I thought those were rivets, BTW.
--
Imagination is the beginning of creation. You imagine what you desire,
you will what you imagine and at last you create what you will.
-- George Bernard Shaw
Jim Wilkins
> ...
> I recently had the same problem. My cold chisel wasn't sharp enough, so
> I ground the end of some 5/16" HSS square stock to a sharp bevel, about
> 20 degrees. Then narrowed down the sharp edge from 5/16" to more like
> 1/8". This was my chisel, and with a small hammer I was able to get
> Jordan
Let me add a little warning to that otherwise good idea. HSS stores up
a LOT of energy when it bends, and if it breaks it throws very sharp
fragments at high speed. I found that out by not cutting a deep enough
groove all the way around before breaking a short piece off with a
hammer.
jsw
Randy
My answer to these, after I get them out is to tap the holes and
reinstall the plate with button head screws.
Thank You,
Randy
Remove 333 from email address to reply.
Ignoramus26563
> On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 21:01:00 -0600, Ignoramus14738
><ignoram...@NOSPAM.14738.invalid> wrote:
>
>>Yep Jim and Dan, they just needed to be pried out, I thought that they
>>were "screws" and tried to screw them out, to no avail. The speed and
>>feed table was reinstalled, I am very happy. The effect is awesome,
>>like makeup on a 40 year old girl.
>>
>>i
>
> My answer to these, after I get them out is to tap the holes and
> reinstall the plate with button head screws.
Well, the old table lasted 43 years. If the new table lasts 43 more
years, I will be replacing it at the age of 81, if Clausing still has
it that is. At that age I will have plenty of time to re-remove the
"screws". I probably will forget all about how to remove them, by
then.
i
Joe AutoDrill
Ran into these same or similar type screws on an ignition rebuild (Kasasaki
Super Sherpa motorcycle) this past year. Seems they use fasteners that
screw in and when thight, the head breaks off so that you can't get them
out. The only problem is I needed to get them out, eh?
Drilled them, but had to disassemble a whole lot of stuff to make room for a
small hand drill to get in there.
--
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
V8013-R
sta...@prolynx.com
I've gotten them out by pulling with needle-nose Vise-Grips.
Replacements are listed as either drive pins or drive screws, from the
usual suspects, MSC, Grainger, etc. If you can't get a grip on the
edges, I've either wedged them up with a knifeblade or filed opposing
flats so a grip can be had.
Stan
Wes
How much did that chart cost you?
Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Ignoramus26563
> Ignoramus14738 <ignoram...@NOSPAM.14738.invalid> wrote:
>
>>Yep Jim and Dan, they just needed to be pried out, I thought that they
>>were "screws" and tried to screw them out, to no avail. The speed and
>>feed table was reinstalled, I am very happy. The effect is awesome,
>>like makeup on a 40 year old girl.
>>
>>i
> How much did that chart cost you?
>
Twenty something dollars. Part 130-025. The new chart is more readable
than the old one, I think that they use better lettering.
i
Jon Elson
> This is a "speed and feed" table on my Clausing 6913. It is all beat
> up and a replacement was not too expensive ($21).
>
> The problem is that it is attached with fasteners that have smooth
> heads, mushroom shaped. No slot of any kind. I cannot seem to grab
> them with pliers either.
>
to work a chisel gently under the head, then pull with whatever can get
a grip. Diagonal cutters can be useful, or prying with a pair of
flipped-over chisels, using the bevels as a fulcrum. Of course, if you
break off the head, you are in big trouble. Generally, these things
don't get very tight in the hole, but a bit of rust could change that.
Jon
Martin H. Eastburn
fast spirals. They are tapped in with a 'tack hammer'.
Martin
Michael A. Terrell
Larry Jaques wrote:
>
> On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 19:40:21 -0600, the infamous Ignoramus14738
> <ignoram...@NOSPAM.14738.invalid> scrawled the following:
>
> >This is a "speed and feed" table on my Clausing 6913. It is all beat
> >up and a replacement was not too expensive ($21).
> >
> >The problem is that it is attached with fasteners that have smooth
> >heads, mushroom shaped. No slot of any kind. I cannot seem to grab
> >them with pliers either.
> >
> >Here's the picture with one of them circled:
> >
> > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Smooth-Headed-Screw.jpg
> >
> >The manual refers to these screws on page 24:
> >
> > "#2 x 3/16 P.K. DRIVE SCREW"
> >
> >Google does not bring up anything about these.
> >
> >Would anyone have any idea how to remove them. I would replace them
> >with philips or slotted screws from Ace Hardware. But I need to remove
> >them first.
> >
> >thanks a lot to all.
>
> Saw a slot in 'em and unscrew? I thought those were rivets, BTW.
Peel away the old plate and use an old pair of dikes to remove them.
Lay them flush to the surface and squeeze while turning. I have removed
hundreds that way.
These fasteners are used to make it difficult to remove without
damaging the plate. They were used on military equipment for ID and SN
plates.
--
Greed is the root of all eBay.
DoN. Nichols
> This is a "speed and feed" table on my Clausing 6913. It is all beat
> up and a replacement was not too expensive ($21).
>
> The problem is that it is attached with fasteners that have smooth
> heads, mushroom shaped. No slot of any kind. I cannot seem to grab
> them with pliers either.
>
> Here's the picture with one of them circled:
>
> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Smooth-Headed-Screw.jpg
Yes -- you can get these in thousand lots for very little from
MSC or other vendors.
An example -- item # 67383729 is #2 size by 1/4" length under
head, and costs $4.83/1000
> The manual refers to these screws on page 24:
>
> "#2 x 3/16 P.K. DRIVE SCREW"
>
> Google does not bring up anything about these.
>
> Would anyone have any idea how to remove them. I would replace them
> with philips or slotted screws from Ace Hardware. But I need to remove
> them first.
The "threads" are actually ridges spiraling at about a 45 degree
angle, and they are installed by driving them in with a hammer and
punch, not by turning them. They cut their own threads (the first time
in) and turn on their own as driven in.
To remove them -- get a flush cutting pair of dikes, and grip as
close to the surface as possible -- or, since you have a replacement
data plate, just slide a screwdriver under the edge and walk up to the
drive screws.
I've got two sizes of them, and if you happen to need a size
which I have, let me know and I'll send you more than enough to
install the new plate. If you pry them out with the screwdriver under
the plate, you probably can re-use them -- but measure the length under
the head and the diameter of both the "thread" area and the pilot so I
can compare them to what I have. Just send me an e-mail. (Of course,
it may be a few days before I can mail *anything* given the threat of
heavy snow here. :-)
*Don't* put slotted screws in there. That will require tapping
and dump chips into the gearbox.
If you need to get them form MSC -- just search on "drive
screws" (without the quotes).
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Ignoramus26563
DoN, I was lucky and did not break any of those screws, the new plate
is in plate and the lathe now is looking great! Thanks for your kind
offer though.
i