Do not let not being able to afford a Milwaukee stop you from getting your
job done. If all you can afford is an HF get it, and get the profits in
from the job. Then take them and write them off as tool replacement costs
for a Milwaukee or Makita.
I had a long informative reply, but my fat fingers and this computer ate it.
I had very poor results with a cheap battery drill that was similar to
the HF one. It had a very bad charger and in general was no good. I
have a Dewalt now and it never failed me. The charging system does a
great job at charging and not overcharging batteries.
i
Let me put it to you this way: If you get out on a job, and your drill
doesn't work, do you? There are MANY things that you can cut corners on,
and cheap items are as good as expensive ones, but I don't consider a good
battery drill to be in that category. Look at pawn shops. I have seen some
killer deals there, and haggle with the guy from the moment you go in,
offering him a lowball price. Walk around. Chances are, by the time you
leave, they will want you to part with some of your money. If not, go to
the next pawn shop. Check your local Craigslist. A friend of mine got a
Porter Cable pancake compressor and three nail guns of various sizes, all
never used for $125. Plus a good shock of hose, and thousands of nails.
You don't want your drill to take the rest of the day off when you are not
finished. Look for one with an extra battery. Very important. I like my
DeWalt 18v.
Steve
-Brian
Yes, but the important point is that you do NOT have the money you spent on
the cheapo. If you take that off the purchase price of a good one, it would
have probably made such a deal that you would have bought the good one. Now
all you have is an expensive fishing weight.
That's the problem with buying some of the cheaper items. You spend money,
then end up spending more to get a good one, and you have a nearly worthless
paperweight.
MHO
Steve
This is basically true, and in addition, you have to subtract the time
wasted because the tool was out of operation (something you mentioned
in the previous post). Some cheap things work out OK, though.
i
I checked five drills and got only one review. Pretty impressive. The
excitement was too much, so I stopped and went and got a nitro pill.
Steve
The DeWalt 12V 2-speed is my favorite drill , used 'em for years at more
than one shop . Light and plenty powerful enough to drive a 3" screw
full-depth in hardwood .
--
Snag
My only working drill
is a DeWalt 1/2" -
but it's too heavy and slow .
Which is why I asked , if a few had good luck with those , I'd buy one .
Looks like I'm going to bite the bullet on the drill . Fleabay has the
(model 972 , I think) one I like for around a hundred .
If the guy buys that Camaro axle today , I can afford a decent nailer too
.
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF
I bought a 18-volt HF drill for $19.95 a year ago. came with two
batteries. Works just fine.
For your purposes I bet it would get you by until you can afford a
name-brand. Then it would be a good backup.
Steve , do your nitro pills also give you pounding headaches ? Worked in
aerospace/missile stuff a couple decades ago . One of the solid rocket
fuels I worked with used nitro . After the first headache I made damn sure
not to get any on my skin or breath the vapors .
Have had two of the HF drills. they are ok, but the charger will kill
the batteries in short order. If you have a way of shutting off the
power to the charger after 6-8 hours, then your batteries will last a
lot longer. There is NO intelligence in the charger.
On the other hand, I have a Sears/Dewalt drill, with two batteries, at
work that is over 10 years old. I replace the batteries 3 years ago
with two off Ebay. We don't swap batteries until one is pretty well
out of juice. Then recharge it for a day or two. The difference is the
charger for this drill has some intelligence and does not ever
overcharge and over heat the batteries.
The HF drill batteries should be good for about 1 year. Will that give
you enough use until you can get a good one?
Paul
If that guy that wanted this Camaro axle comes today like he said , I'll be
getting the DeWalt I want ... if he doesn't buy it , I'll be gettin' the HF
and unplugging the charger at night .
Put it on a timer...you will forget.
TMT
I've got one of the HF cheapies, if you get one, buy your spare
batteries at the same time, they're NOT all the same design, even in
the same brand! For occasional drilling/driving, it's OK, it's not
something you're going to want to use 8 hours a day, it's not up to
running hundreds of screws at a time. For things like mounting a few
hinges or maybe weather stripping a door, it'd be fine. You need at
least two batteries for sustained work, the HF chargers tend to be not
much more than a wall wart and a cradle with no smarts. The
instructions say to remove when charged, not to leave them in all the
time. If you follow those instructions, the batteries seem to last a
fair number of recharges.
I bought one of their 18-gauge slight-head pin drivers, it works OK.
The occasional jam needs a hex wrench to clear, some of the more
expensive units can be cleared with bare hands. Check the limits on
the pin sizes it'll drive, if you need shorter or longer nails, find
something else. It was almost ridiculously cheap at about $10, cheap
enough I could see if I wanted to invest in more expensive hardware.
I use it for setting pins in rough wood storage boxes to hold them
together while the glue sets. More controllable than the staple gun I
tried.
Stan
The HF that I tried worked OK but the battery died a quick death.
Later I found out that the charging system is not automatic and if you leave
the battery on the charger too long it kills the batteries.
--
__
Roger Shoaf
Important factors in selecting a mate:
1] Depth of gene pool
2] Position on the food chain.
And check out pawn shops and craigslist. I use www.Searchtempest.com as you
can search a defined number of miles from your zip code on CL.
And I buy some of my tools from Amazon.com Free shipping and no tax. And
they will match any internet price.
My 12 volt Drill Master has worked for several
years. As others have correctly mentioned:
* The chargers are STUPID and will kill your
battery if left plugged in.
* Read the manual. For me, 3 hour charge works
fine.
* He's right, they have several designs of
batteries. When I got them, the battery cost about
as much as the drill. I got 12 volt so I could
wire the drill to a car lighter cord, and run off
a jumper pack when the battery dies. The battery
hasn't yet died.
* Spare batteries are excellent idea.
Never used a pin finishing nailer.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Snag" <snag...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:EdPgn.30561$K81....@newsfe18.iad...
I've had good luck out of several HF models. I got about four years
use before the batteries were useless. I currently have two of this
model, and three spare batteries:
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93440>
It is a 19.2 volt version of my first HF drill that was identical
except it used a 9.6 volt battery pack. That drill still holds a little
charge, and is about eight years old.
I started buying two identical drills so I can switch jobs without
changing a bit every time. Like a drill bit on one and a screwdriver of
socket driver in the other.
These are $29.99 and spare batteries are Item 92603 @$16.99 each. I
bought three spare batteries on sale recently, for $10.99 each. I use
them for work around the house, like building cabinets & shelving, and
to work on computers.
--
Greed is the root of all eBay.
Is it one of the Dewalt cordless drills with a safety recall for
being a fire hazard?
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/recalls/DewaltSafetyrecall.pdf>
Black and Decker has disconinued that product line:
www.firestormtools.com
I used my HF Mod. 40116 pin/stapler for the first time last week. It
worked every time. No jams. Put the pins where I wanted them. For the
fifteen bucks it cost, it owes me nothing.
Kevin Gallimore
>
>"Bob La Londe" <nos...@nospam.no> wrote in message
>news:hm0s6t$5o9$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>> "Snag" <snag...@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:EdPgn.30561$K81....@newsfe18.iad...
>>> I'm going to be needing a battery drill for a small handyman business
>>> I'm starting , and right now I can't afford the one I really want .
>>> Anybody using one of the HF offerings ? They're a lot cheaper , but as we
>>> all know , cheaper tools often end up costing more in the long run -
>>> whether from dying in the middle of a job , or from screwin' up whatever
>>> you're working on .
>>> Same goes for their pin/finish nailers ... anyone have one ?
>>
>> Do not let not being able to afford a Milwaukee stop you from getting your
>> job done. If all you can afford is an HF get it, and get the profits in
>> from the job. Then take them and write them off as tool replacement costs
>> for a Milwaukee or Makita.
>>
>> I had a long informative reply, but my fat fingers and this computer ate
>> it.
>
>Let me put it to you this way: If you get out on a job, and your drill
>doesn't work, do you? There are MANY things that you can cut corners on,
>and cheap items are as good as expensive ones, but I don't consider a good
>battery drill to be in that category.
I always have at least two battery drills (Impactor and drill),
sometimes 3, and my corded B&D dog with the 1/2" chuck, with me in the
truck.
>Look at pawn shops. I have seen some
>killer deals there, and haggle with the guy from the moment you go in,
>offering him a lowball price. Walk around. Chances are, by the time you
>leave, they will want you to part with some of your money. If not, go to
>the next pawn shop. Check your local Craigslist. A friend of mine got a
>Porter Cable pancake compressor and three nail guns of various sizes, all
>never used for $125. Plus a good shock of hose, and thousands of nails.
I've never seen a good deal on a tool in a pawn shop in my life.
>You don't want your drill to take the rest of the day off when you are not
>finished. Look for one with an extra battery. Very important. I like my
>DeWalt 18v.
Yes, extra batteries, charger onboard, and a power strip in case you
only have one outlet to use and have more than one corded tool to go
into it.
--
"Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong
remedy." -- Ernest Benn
Let me put it a different way. If you have $30 in your pocket and a job to
do today you can either not do it and still have $20 (lunch) in your pocket
tomorrow or you can buy a cheap drill, do the job, and tomorrow you have
$200 dollars in your pocket and a cheap drill which you can keep or throw
away.
Long term the better quality tool is always the best thing to get. Short
term it isn't always, and you have to get through the short term first.
Sometimes the best compromise is to buy both. One now and one later. The
problem with most folks is they go, "Ooooh! I have $200 in my pocket now.
I think I'll take the Ol' Lady and the Kids out to dinner instead of buying
the better drill."
Sure, if they had the $200 up front they would be better off to buy the
better drill upfront in the long run. But if they don't they will still be
better off to get the job done than to not get the job done.
I've been a contractor since I sold my first job in 1993. I didn't even
have a truck. I hired a buddy to help me out because he needed some work
and he had a truck. I didn't need his help to do the job, but I needed a
truck. If I had not needed the truck I could have done it myself and
pocketed more money, but I would not have been able to do the job without
the truck. If I had held out to buy a truck first I would not have gotten
that job and probably would not be a contractor today.
P.S. That first customer is still a client today.
P.P.S. I can't count the number of drills I have had in the last 20 years.
Some cheap ones, and some very good ones. My good rotary hammer was about
$800, but I have a $29.95 drill sitting on my work bench in the shop that
always has a 1/4" drill bit in it because its small, fits lots of places,
and it seems like I always need to punch a 1/4" hole in something. Right
now I've probably got more than a dozen drill motors of one type or another
(some I should probably throw away) and I know the difference between a
quality drill motor and a cheap one. I've had Ryobi, Skill, B&D, DeWalt,
Milwaukee, Makita, Porter Cable, Rigid, Crapsman, and generic ones. Hands
down I think Milwaukee are the best with Rigid and Makita coming up second,
and in a few years my 1/2" Rigid may move up to number one if it holds up
like my table saw and my band saw have.
What about DeWalt? I had 3 or 4 of those in cordless, and they were fine.
I was happy with how thy performed, but the chuck was proprietary, and one
of my guys managed to break a chuck. I couldn't just throw a chuck off a
burned up drill on it like I could with a Makita or a Milwaukee, so I
replaced them with Makitas and Milwaukees.
[someone wrote]
> >Look at pawn shops. I have seen some
> >killer deals there, ...
> I've never seen a good deal on a tool in a pawn shop in my life.
...
I buy a lot of stuff second-hand and agree, they may not be the best
deals relative to remaining wear life but they compete well with
Harbor Freight for backup tools, the ones you have two of in case one
is dropped or stolen or you don't want to keep swapping the drill,
countersink and screwdriver bits.
jsw
I bought a set of new Craftsman ratcheting combination wrenches for
$10, just as one example. These guys, it seems, knew only one thing,
which is how to haggle for scrap gold jewelry, and knew nothing about
tools.
The key is to just not agree to a price that is not advantageous.
i
Those specialists may take in a tool that other dealers refused
because they saw that it needs expensive repairs. If I can't try out
the tool I won't risk paying much unless the dealer will take it back,
which is unusual.
OTOH the way tools are distributed and packaged now, the second-hand
store is the ONLY place I can buy a single Torx or Allen screwdriver,
a 1-1/2 - 8 tap and some Anderson power connectors in one trip.
It's a treasure hunt, beware of pirates.
jsw
. Some cheap things work out OK, though.
>
> i
I bought an electric string trimmer at a yard sale for $2. It worked for
about 15 minutes then went up in smoke. I bought another at a thrift store
for $4, and it is still chugging along. Still a lot cheaper than the $50 or
$60 they want for a new one. I've tossed stuff before that I got really
cheap, and figured I got more than my money's worth on it. But for reliable
stuff that can make me money or shut me down, I prefer to buy good tools.
Steve
No, it is the DeWalt that has been recalled for cutting people's fingers
when they grab the spinning bit instead of the chuck.
Moron.
Steve
> I've never seen a good deal on a tool in a pawn shop in my life.
Porter Cable pancake compressor with three nailguns, 100' hose, and lots of
nails, $135.
DeWalt sliding compound sliding saw with new Diablo blade, $200.
Remington Monte Carlo grade 552 Speedmaster, $90.
HEAVY Rockwell Table saw with new blade, and large top, $50.
I could go on.
I think the pawn shops in my area must be different than yours.
Steve
Yesterday they had a Ryobi router for $60. New at HD was $70. If you know
your stuff, you can get deals. Some shops sell wrenches larger than 1"
throat for a couple of bucks. And they are brand names. They seem not to
be aware of some tools values. Other things are priced at new retail or
above.
The thing is to know your prices, and when they don't, you are in control.
Steve
> Steve , do your nitro pills also give you pounding headaches ? Worked in
> aerospace/missile stuff a couple decades ago . One of the solid rocket
> fuels I worked with used nitro . After the first headache I made damn sure
> not to get any on my skin or breath the vapors .
> --
> Snag
Yes, they do. Enough so that they give you morphine when you are in the
hospital. In the old days when people used nitroglycerine to blast with, it
was just a job hazard. You can also get them in skin patches. That is what
I was up against when I went and got these last tests.
Steve
Steve, you got it exactly right, you have to know more than the other
guy, this is the key.
i
There are a couple of pawn shops that have been good to me . Somewhere in
this thread someone said they never found a good deal in a pawn shop .
Follows is a list of stuff that I CURRENTLY own that came from a pawn shop :
lathe (Logan)
drill press (chinese , cheap)
sawzall(Milwaukee)
chainsaw (Poulan)
'lectric drill (DeWalt)
miter saw (Delta , low end)
Most of this stuff I paid less than a third of new cost . All items do what
they were made to do ...
If he reads this he knows what you think of him.
jsw
> Most of this stuff I paid less than a third of new cost . All items do
> what they were made to do ...
> --
> Snag
We do good at pawn shops because we know what we am looking at, and know the
price it should be. Some people can't do that.
Steve
jsw
As my high school English teacher corrected me a thousand times,
"It matters not."
Steve
>"Snag" <snag...@comcast.net> wrote in message
>news:EdPgn.30561$K81....@newsfe18.iad...
>> I'm going to be needing a battery drill for a small handyman business I'm
>> starting , and right now I can't afford the one I really want . Anybody
>> using one of the HF offerings ? They're a lot cheaper , but as we all know
>> , cheaper tools often end up costing more in the long run - whether from
>> dying in the middle of a job , or from screwin' up whatever you're working
>> on .
>> Same goes for their pin/finish nailers ... anyone have one ?
>
>Do not let not being able to afford a Milwaukee stop you from getting your
>job done. If all you can afford is an HF get it, and get the profits in
>from the job. Then take them and write them off as tool replacement costs
>for a Milwaukee or Makita.
>
>I had a long informative reply, but my fat fingers and this computer ate it.
I would pass on the Milwaukee, I got 4 dead batteries and a dead
charger, but then again it is 3 years old.
I think my next new cordless might be a Makita, my 15+ year old Makita
battery still holds a partial charge.
Thank You,
Randy
Remove 333 from email address to reply.
(...)
> I would pass on the Milwaukee, I got 4 dead batteries and a dead
> charger, but then again it is 3 years old.
These guys rebuilt several of my packs and made my tired
Makita tools run like new: http://www.primecell.com/pctools.htm
--Winston
It'll be regional and to a certain extent seasonal. Around here, the
roofers and yard workers pawn their tools at the start of winter so
they can get back to Mexico for the holidays. Along about Nov. or
Dec., compressors and nail guns are a drug and deals can be had, same
for mowers and string trimmers. A lot of the items will have been
used hard with no maintenance, that's where the skill and knowledge
comes in to spot a deal. I don't see any machine tools and only a few
hand power tools. For some reason, beat-up Sawzalls and clones seem
to be the exception. Not too many air tools besides nailers, either.
Stan
Then shove it back up your ass and pull the trigger.
> Moron.
At least you finally admitted it.
Did you look at the list of recalled DeWalt models, jackass? They
have defective triggers that overheat and can catch fire.
> I think my next new cordless might be a Makita, my 15+ year old Makita
> battery still holds a partial charge.
>
>
> Thank You,
> Randy
I would not part with my OLD Makita 9.6 as it is great for a lot of stuff.
Not everything, but that's when I get the 18v. out. Or the corded.
Steve
> Did you look at the list of recalled DeWalt models, jackass? They
> have defective triggers that overheat and can catch fire.
Go into your closet and shut the door, then. Life is a risk. If you don't
like something, just don't use it. I'll do the same. It's relatively
simple, except for people like you.
Steve
>
>"Larry Jaques" <lja...@diversify.invalid> wrote
>
>> I've never seen a good deal on a tool in a pawn shop in my life.
>
>Porter Cable pancake compressor with three nailguns, 100' hose, and lots of
>nails, $135.
>
>DeWalt sliding compound sliding saw with new Diablo blade, $200.
OK, there you have a good price.
>Remington Monte Carlo grade 552 Speedmaster, $90.
>
>HEAVY Rockwell Table saw with new blade, and large top, $50.
>
>I could go on.
>
>I think the pawn shops in my area must be different than yours.
They just might be. I seldom see stuff for any less than full retail
up here, and I saw the same crap in LoCal when I lived there. Ghastly
high prices on decent stuff, and way too high a price on dead, old, or
worn-out goods which were missing batteries, chargers, cases, chuck
keys, etc.
Every time I've been into a pawn shop, I wonder how in the hell they
stay in business. One pawn shop here sells used pistols (well, he
tries, anyway) for prices higher than the manufacturer gets for brand
new pieces.
>
>Snag wrote:
>>
>> Which is why I asked , if a few had good luck with those , I'd buy one .
>> Looks like I'm going to bite the bullet on the drill . Fleabay has the
>> (model 972 , I think) one I like for around a hundred .
>> If the guy buys that Camaro axle today , I can afford a decent nailer too
>
>
> I've had good luck out of several HF models. I got about four years
>use before the batteries were useless. I currently have two of this
>model, and three spare batteries:
><http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93440>
>
> It is a 19.2 volt version of my first HF drill that was identical
>except it used a 9.6 volt battery pack. That drill still holds a little
>charge, and is about eight years old.
>
> I started buying two identical drills so I can switch jobs without
>changing a bit every time. Like a drill bit on one and a screwdriver of
>socket driver in the other.
>
> These are $29.99 and spare batteries are Item 92603 @$16.99 each. I
>bought three spare batteries on sale recently, for $10.99 each. I use
>them for work around the house, like building cabinets & shelving, and
>to work on computers.
Note the moral: If you have to buy cheapies, buy two. Then if one
dies you can still finish the job, and if there's a terminal failure
you use one as a parts burner for the other.
Harbor Freight builds "Okay" tools, as long as your use doesn't
involve beating on them with a rock they'll last for a while. But
their repair parts system is hit-and-miss at best, and parts for older
things, fuhgeddaboudit.
I have a few 18V DeWalt drills, and they DO get beaten on daily
(swinging 1" Ship Augurs and 1-1/2" Selfeed bits when roughing in) and
have had very good luck. Melted one motor's brush-holders off the
molded glass-filled motor end bell, and now I know better and let it
cool off between too-big holes.
DeWalt has the new Nano stuff coming out that's Li-Ion instead of
Ni-Cad. If you can get a deal, go for it - but I haven't seen any
good deals on consumables for the Nano stuff yet, notably the two-pack
deal on replacement batteries they run a few times a year.
The Nano packs are MOSTLY backwards compatible, which is a bonus.
There are only a few old things that can't run the new packs, they
need to come out with a new Radio/Charger for one.
--<< Bruce >>--
I would like to respectfully disagree. Some of their tools are
perfectly good and usable, like, say, hammers, some vises, lights,
etc. Some are, to the contrary, useless junk, such as those drills
with bad chargers that damage batteries.
i
It's a contract. Offer and acceptance. If there is not mutual agreement,
there is no contract. I laugh often in pawn shops. Once at a higher than
new retail price. Again for a lower than actual worth price. And again
when I see some overpriced item being carried out the door.
I can not say that everything I have ever bought in my life has been a
killer deal. I don't think anyone can honestly say that.
Steve
What he said.
Steve
Hey, if you guys can't figure out how to RTFM, as short as they are,
and spot the large "DO NOT OVERCHARGE BATTERIES" warning enclosed (in
at least one place, if not two) you're on your own. ;)
Hammers, sledges in particular, are dangerous items from HF now that
they're attempting to glue the heads on instead of properly shaping
the handle and wedging the heads on. When you're really swinging a 5
lb sledge and the head comes flying off, it's gonna -cost- somebody
something. I'm terrified of that new ploy.
Actually, I agree with you. I recalled that I bought a peen
hammer recently and its glued head is already acting suspiciously.
i
Sigh. If it were, you would have already burned to death.
Getting five years service out of the batteries is better than I got
with some name brand cordless drills.
Buy whatever you want and do whatever the hell you please, with it.
I buy a lot of tools two or more at a time now that I'm disabled. By
doing so, I don't have to go looking for tools. I can leave them where
ever I'm working around the house and still have tools in both shops. I
already spend too much time limping around to do whatever task is at
hand. Extra tools allow me to get more done. I still have and use
tools I bought while I was in junior high school, in the mid '60s. I
have two table saws, two radial ar saws, a couple compound miter saws, a
couple drill presses, about 15 corded & cordless drills. I probably have
over 120 screwdrivers, not counting the 1/4" hex drive bits. I have at
least five sets of socket drivers, and three sets of automotive tools so
that I can carry one in my truck, keep one in the garage and another in
my metalworking shop. tools are meant to be used, and do wear out. No
matter what you buy.
I buy drill bits and other small items in bulk, because they wear
out. I used to buy 1/8" drill bits by the pound because I wore out so
many while drilling out rivets in some equipment. They weren't cheap
imports, they were US made industrial grade. They are cheaper in bulk,
and you don't have a job come to a screeching halt for a few cents worth
of tooling.
Just like when I was in business, I bought things by the bag, box
bundle or crate. I did most jobs in one trip from stock in the truck and
made more money that the ID10Ts that bought a single outlet box or stick
of conduit at a time. They spent more time at the wholesalers picking
up supplies for one job than they did working. I generally went once a
week or every other week to restock my truck & shop. I was in and out
in under 15 minutes, usually on a Saturday morning when most of my
customers weren't open for business.