Re: water pipe corrosion
Pete C.
Karl Townsend wrote:
>
> > If you can access these parts out of the system, and since it's
> > non-potable water, I'd look at a coating like those made to coat inside
> > a gas tank.
>
> Do you have a name. Need more direction to know what to order.
> I'd to order it yet today.
>
> Karl
Here are a few possibilities:
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Tank-Sealers_c_7-1-0.html
http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
http://www.justgastanks.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21_335
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900056/
You can probably get something at a local auto parts store.
Ned Simmons
<karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>My fittings on the six inch underground irrigation system are rusting out.
>I'm digging up the third one as soon as parts come. This is a totally awful
>terrible job. Unless you like doing Mexican backhoe in a mud hole.
>
>Anyway, the fittings are all a weldament of six inch and four inch by 1/8"
>wall steel tubing. I'm getting a small rust hole right at the bottom of the
>pipe where water sits during the off season.
>
>Anybody know of a corrosion preventative or something I could apply to the
>steel like a zinc based paint maybe. Other ideas?
These folks will have something pricey, probably a modified urethane
or epoxy. But their stuff does work and may be worth the expense.
http://www.belzona.com/valves_pipes_fittings.aspx
--
Ned Simmons
Pete C.
Karl Townsend wrote:
>
> My fittings on the six inch underground irrigation system are rusting out.
> I'm digging up the third one as soon as parts come. This is a totally awful
> terrible job. Unless you like doing Mexican backhoe in a mud hole.
>
> Anyway, the fittings are all a weldament of six inch and four inch by 1/8"
> wall steel tubing. I'm getting a small rust hole right at the bottom of the
> pipe where water sits during the off season.
>
> Anybody know of a corrosion preventative or something I could apply to the
> steel like a zinc based paint maybe. Other ideas?
>
Karl Townsend
> If you can access these parts out of the system, and since it's
> non-potable water, I'd look at a coating like those made to coat inside
> a gas tank.
Do you have a name. Need more direction to know what to order.
Karl Townsend
>
> Replace the system with common black poly. No rust. Cheap and easy.
They don't make custom fittings out of plastic in six inch diameter. At
least I've never seen them.
Karl
Karl Townsend
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection
>
> How about sacrificial anodes bonded to the pipe at intervals?
>
> --Winston
Good idea, and I see Mcmaster sells them. I'll put one on it.
Winston
> My fittings on the six inch underground irrigation system are rusting out.
> I'm digging up the third one as soon as parts come. This is a totally awful
> terrible job. Unless you like doing Mexican backhoe in a mud hole.
>
> Anyway, the fittings are all a weldament of six inch and four inch by 1/8"
> wall steel tubing. I'm getting a small rust hole right at the bottom of the
> pipe where water sits during the off season.
>
> Anybody know of a corrosion preventative or something I could apply to the
> steel like a zinc based paint maybe. Other ideas?
>
> Karl
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection
Karl Townsend
Steve W.
Replace the system with common black poly. No rust. Cheap and easy.
--
Steve W.
(\___/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
ATP*
"Karl Townsend" <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote in message
news:4bcdf70a$0$77551$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
probably adapt to whatever you need:
http://www.idswater.com/water/us/jm_manufacturing/polyvinyl-chloride-pipes/13473_0/g_supplier_2.html
Karl Townsend
> What do you mean by custom? You can definitely replace it with PVC and
> probably adapt to whatever you need:
>
> http://www.idswater.com/water/us/jm_manufacturing/polyvinyl-chloride-pipes/13473_0/g_supplier_2.html
>
You found the pipe, mine's the six inch PIP. The pipe is buried in the field
road. Now, just try to find an offset riser to put the three inch shut off
valve beside the road at soil level. Don't forget the winter drain valve.
Trust me, it ain't made.
Karl
Larry Jaques
<karltown...@embarqmail.com> scrawled the following:
>
>
>>
>> Replace the system with common black poly. No rust. Cheap and easy.
>
>They don't make custom fittings out of plastic in six inch diameter. At
>least I've never seen them.
Can you run out a pair of 3- or 4-inchers instead?
Flexi links to half a dozen ABS pipes?
Aluminum pipe?
Stainless steel? (Only a couple hundred thou more, eh?)
Teflon lined pipe available?
--
"I think you very well may see a revolution in this country and
it will not be a revolution to overthrow the government," he said.
"It would be a revolution to restore government to its constitutional
basis." --Rob Weaver on VoA, 4/19/10
Buerste
How about Pick-Up Truck bed liner goo, like "Rhino"?
Larry Jaques
<bue...@buerste.com> scrawled the following:
>
>"Karl Townsend" <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote in message
>news:4bcdffcf$0$65862$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
>>
>>> If you can access these parts out of the system, and since it's
>>> non-potable water, I'd look at a coating like those made to coat inside
>>> a gas tank.
>>
>> Do you have a name. Need more direction to know what to order.
>> I'd to order it yet today.
First, learn to type in complete sentences. <bseg>
>How about Pick-Up Truck bed liner goo, like "Rhino"?
Even if it did work, it's naturally sticky and would give the moving
water fits as it went through the pipe. Can you say "turbulence"? I
knew you could.
Hmm, Slick50 treatment? Connect pipes, pour in Slick50, rotate long
section while heating, pour out Slick50. Hmm...
Snag
Check out POR 15 , they have several products that might work for you .
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF
Steve W.
I'll give you the name of the coating I use. Some of the best stuff you
can get and hold like death even if there is rust on the surface.
Kwik-Poly
Mix it up. Apply. Let cure in about 5 minutes your done. Works for MUCH
more than just gas tanks or sealing stuff. Starts off as a liquid as
thin as water. Can be mixed with just about anything to use as a filler.
I've used it for sealing gas tanks, mixed with fine sawdust as a
waterproof filler, used a brush to soak it into some damaged wood to
stop the rot and make it secure. Even used it with standard fiberglass
cloth to seal a canoe!
It's not real cheap but I replaced a LOT of other materials with one item.
--
Steve W.
whit3rd
wrote:
> My fittings on the six inch underground irrigation system are rusting out.
>... I'm getting a small rust hole right at the bottom of the
> pipe where water sits during the off season.
So, why not drain the pipes, then put a vacuum pump on 'em to dry
those last bits? The brown cruddy type of rust needs water and
oxygen to form, and you can remove both.
axolotl
Many years ago I used this stuff:
for a general outdoor anti-corrosion coating. Worked for me.
Kevin Gallimore
ATP*
The valves we use in the northeast are always in line with the pipe and
require a long-ass bar to operate.
John B. Slocomb
<lja...@diversify.invalid> wrote:
>On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 02:15:29 -0400, the infamous "Buerste"
><bue...@buerste.com> scrawled the following:
>
>>
>>"Karl Townsend" <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:4bcdffcf$0$65862$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
>>>
>>>> If you can access these parts out of the system, and since it's
>>>> non-potable water, I'd look at a coating like those made to coat inside
>>>> a gas tank.
>>>
>>> Do you have a name. Need more direction to know what to order.
>>> I'd to order it yet today.
>
>First, learn to type in complete sentences. <bseg>
>
>
>>How about Pick-Up Truck bed liner goo, like "Rhino"?
>
>Even if it did work, it's naturally sticky and would give the moving
>water fits as it went through the pipe. Can you say "turbulence"? I
>knew you could.
>
>Hmm, Slick50 treatment? Connect pipes, pour in Slick50, rotate long
>section while heating, pour out Slick50. Hmm...
The oil field people usually demand that after a "pig" is run by
driving it with water, the water either be completely removed or the
pipe be left completely full.
I am assuming from your posts that the pipes require draining to
prevent freezing but I wonder whether, after draining as best as
possible an air compressor could be connected and "blow down" the pipe
for a few days might not prevent further corrosion.
John B. Slocomb
(johnbslocombatgmaildotcom)
DoN. Nichols
[ ... ]
> I am assuming from your posts that the pipes require draining to
> prevent freezing but I wonder whether, after draining as best as
> possible an air compressor could be connected and "blow down" the pipe
> for a few days might not prevent further corrosion.
How about pulling a vacuum on the pipes instead -- assuming that
they can take the compressive forces of pulling a vacuum on the pipe.
This will cause the water to evaporate relatively quickly -- assuming
that you have a way of sealing the other end of the pipe.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Carl Ijames
handle a vacuum without imploding. However, that would be a very large
volume of water to evaporate. If you do try this I recommend watching a
vacuum gauge as you pump down as you will get boiling and then freezing and
you will see a plateau at 5-15 torr during boiling and evaporative cooling.
Keep pumping until the pressure falls below maybe 5 torr (where the amount
of ice starts to become large), and then vent the system to air and allow
time for the ice to melt before you do another cycle.
Karl, I know you said that all the special risers and valves you need are
not available in PVC, but how about using PVC pipe for the main runs and
adapting to iron for all those fittings? When they rust out you can replace
them but you won't have to dig up all the long runs of pipe, at least.
-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames
"DoN. Nichols" <dnic...@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
news:slrnht1u8m....@Katana.d-and-d.com...
Larry Jaques
<dnic...@d-and-d.com> scrawled the following:
>On 2010-04-22, John B Slocomb <johnbs...@invalid.com> wrote:
>
> [ ... ]
>
>> I am assuming from your posts that the pipes require draining to
>> prevent freezing but I wonder whether, after draining as best as
>> possible an air compressor could be connected and "blow down" the pipe
>> for a few days might not prevent further corrosion.
>
> How about pulling a vacuum on the pipes instead -- assuming that
>they can take the compressive forces of pulling a vacuum on the pipe.
>This will cause the water to evaporate relatively quickly -- assuming
>that you have a way of sealing the other end of the pipe.
Or a -hot- air blower down the pipe for a couple of days, then sealing
it tight.
--
...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin
James Waldby
> On 23 Apr 2010 01:34:17 GMT,..."DoN. Nichols" ... wrote:
> >>On 2010-04-22, John B Slocomb ... wrote:
...
>>> I am assuming from your posts that the pipes require draining to
>>> prevent freezing but I wonder whether, after draining as best as
>>> possible an air compressor could be connected and "blow down" the pipe
>>> for a few days might not prevent further corrosion.
>>
>> How about pulling a vacuum on the pipes instead -- assuming that
>>they can take the compressive forces of pulling a vacuum on the pipe.
>>This will cause the water to evaporate relatively quickly -- assuming
>>that you have a way of sealing the other end of the pipe.
>
> Or a -hot- air blower down the pipe for a couple of days, then sealing
> it tight.
Since the irrigation-pipe volume is around 20 cubic meters per km,
running a hot air blower might be far more practical than either
a compressor or a vacuum pump or a surplus dry nitrogen generator.
I imagine the underground pipe length is between 100 and 1000m, for
20 acres of orchard. A picture of some surface pipe in a strawberry
patch appears in the first web document (a .pdf file, in spite of its
.aspx extension) listed at <http://www.google.com/#q=growers15.aspx>.
--
jiw