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3 ton heat pump. WIll 100 amps work?

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stryped

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Dec 8, 2009, 10:16:35 AM12/8/09
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A co worker has a 15 year old 3 ton heat pump split system with air
conditioner. It works great but is putting a new unit at his house.
Will this work in my 30x30 garage if I only have 100 amps at my sub
panel? I also have off this a 1.5 ton unit for a bonus room that is
almost always off unless we go upstairs. I can get this for free. I
think the freaon will be emptied though when the guy removes it.

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

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Dec 8, 2009, 10:29:35 AM12/8/09
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stryped <stry...@yahoo.com> fired this volley in news:adaa28a5-1a3b-
4357-86a9-5...@a32g2000yqm.googlegroups.com:

If the unit is typical of most, it will have service valves at both the
evaporator and condensor unit that will allow you to close off both parts
of the sealed system, and only lose the refrigerant in the
interconnecting lines.

If it has auxiliary heat strips in the indoor unit, you'll probably need
40A service to each component. You MUST have a service disconnect within
clear view of each unit in order to pass inspection.

LLoyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

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Dec 8, 2009, 10:33:12 AM12/8/09
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"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> fired this volley
in news:Xns9CDB6ABE7ED5Ell...@216.168.3.70:

> If the unit is typical of most, it will have service valves at both
> the evaporator and condensor unit that will allow you to close off
> both parts of the sealed system, and only lose the refrigerant in the
> interconnecting lines.

I should add, some only have the service valves on the condensor unit,
necessitating either back-pumping the evap contents into the condensor,
or losing all of the refrigerant in the evap.

Knowing you, I think you should let a pro do this.

LLoyd

stryped

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Dec 8, 2009, 11:46:36 AM12/8/09
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On Dec 8, 9:33 am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

<lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:
> "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> fired this volley
> innews:Xns9CDB6ABE7ED5Ell...@216.168.3.70:

>
> > If the unit is typical of most, it will have service valves at both
> > the evaporator and condensor unit that will allow you to close off
> > both parts of the sealed system, and only lose the refrigerant in the
> > interconnecting lines.
>
> I should add, some only have the service valves on the condensor unit,
> necessitating either back-pumping the evap contents into the condensor,
> or losing all of the refrigerant in the evap.
>
> Knowing you, I think you should let a pro do this.
>

"Knowing you"? What does that mean?

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

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Dec 8, 2009, 9:36:45 PM12/8/09
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stryped <stry...@yahoo.com> fired this volley in news:7421f6d4-bd58-
44b3-bbb1-f...@s20g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:

>
> "Knowing you"? What does that mean?

Stryped... Most of us are glad to give advice when we think (right or
wrong) that we have something useful for you. But you've already proven
- over, and over, and over (ad nauseum) - that you need coaching just to
figure out which end of a hammer to hold.

Trying to wheedle you through back-pumping the refrigerant from your evap
to your condensor, then sealing it all off before you lose it or arc-
damage your compressor would be like trying to teach a gerbil The
Calculus.

Hire someone. Don't ask why. Just hire someone. It'll be WAY cheaper
than doing it yourself. And based upon past experience, you'll learn
more.

LLoyd

Stormin Mormon

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Dec 9, 2009, 8:28:18 AM12/9/09
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There is typically a name plate on the outdoor unit, which
states the power supply amperage. My part of the world has
very few heat pumps, but a 3 ton compressor for central AC
typically circuit breaker 40 or 50 amps, at the most.

Most machinists can do much of the work. But, it requires a
HVAC tech with EPA card to do the copper tubing hookup.
Evacuate the air out of the lines, and properly charge with
refrigerant. Being 15 years old, it's the old R-22. Please
have it done as soon as practical, R-22 is being phased out,
and will go up in price as people start using R-410a.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


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