Yet another chain saw question
Steve B
Where can I check that?
Steve
RAM�
news:9dak37-...@news.infowest.com...
>I have a 16" bar on my Husky 345. Can I just change that to an 18" or 20"?
>
> Where can I check that?
>
> Steve
If you can find one -cheap - go for it.
You'll need a longer chain but that's it.
I used to run a 24" roller-tip on my old Mc Culloch 610. <G>
#9
Hell, put a 48" bar and chain on it and be done with it. After all that
32cc engine could power a crop duster plane.
co_f...@yahoo.com
Chainsaw repair shop can make you a chain of any length from bulk
chain of the right width and pitch.
Paul
Steve B
"#9" <#9@#10.invalid> wrote in message
news:hk841q$pkb$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Thank you for helping.
spaco
the power of the engine. If you do it anyway, you will want to reduce
the height of the depth gages or you will stall the saw in the cut with
large logs.
Pete Stanaitis
--------------------
Martin H. Eastburn
It is generally more logical to go down since the power is matched to the blade.
A shorter blade puts less reactive force from a tree... back to the saw.
To long and you can't sling the chain and cut wood.
Research like you are doing!
My Husqvarna (Swedish made) 50 rocks with a 20" blade.
Martin
Karl Townsend
>I have a 16" bar on my Husky 345. Can I just change that to an 18" or 20"?
>
> Where can I check that?
As others have said, you got to watch not having enough power. That said,
I've routinely went up two or four inches in bar length. A roller nose helps
reduce friction - your enemy. Also buy TOP QUALTY chain. The difference is,
they stay sharp much longer. A slightly dull chain makes saw dust not chips.
I always buy three with each bar. Then the bar and three chains wear out at
the same time. Plus you can cut wood for a long time without going back home
to sharpen chain.
Maybe too advance a topic, but you can learn to sharpen a chain so its far
better than new. I was lucky enough to know a fella that cut wood for a
living twenty years ago. He showed me all his tricks and has saved me
hundreds of hours of labor.
Karl
Mouse
>
> Maybe too advance a topic, but you can learn to sharpen a chain so its far
> better than new. I was lucky enough to know a fella that cut wood for a
> living twenty years ago. He showed me all his tricks and has saved me
> hundreds of hours of labor.
>
> Karl
>
Karl, I'd like to see a list of your tips and tricks if they can be
explained without hands-on demonstrations.
Mouse
#9
No problem. I can tell you need all the help you can get.
Of course if you weren't so cheap you would have bought the right tool for
the job in the first place. A bigger bar and chain isn't going to
turbocharge that piss ant motor.
Do you really believe the manufacturer is too stupid to match the
bar/chian to the proper motor or are engineers too dumb to do the math?
How about an answer bunkie? Or is it just going to be more stupid
questions?
Carl
It's surprising that no one has asked what he is cutting! If he cuts
dry hickory, bad idea to upsize the bar as the combination will be
under powered for difficult to cut wood. If most of what he cuts is
fresh, wet, and soft such white pine, sweetgum or poplar the longer
chain will likely work out all right.
CarlBoyd
Wayne
> I have a 16" bar on my Husky 345. Can I just change that to an 18" or 20"?
>
> Where can I check that?
>
> Steve
So a quick google search came up with 13-18" for yours.
http://norwalkpower.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=211
I went to the Husky site and downloaded one of the manuals for
a 345, but I don't know what year yours is.
Under Technical Data it lists 13-18"
Sounds like 18 is ok, don't do 20.
Watcha cutting? I do trail maintenance and I've never needed
more than 14.
Wayne D.
Jim Wilkins
> Steve B used his keyboard to write :> I have a 16" bar on my Husky 345. Can I just change that to an 18" or 20"?
>
> > Where can I check that?
>
> > Steve
>
> The chainsaw I have has a range of recommended bar lengths.
>
>
> I went to the Husky site and downloaded one of the manuals for
> a 345, but I don't know what year yours is.
> Under Technical Data it lists 13-18"
>
> Sounds like 18 is ok, don't do 20.
>
> Watcha cutting? I do trail maintenance and I've never needed
> more than 14.
>
> Wayne D.
I looked into a 20" bar for my Husky 350 and found that I'd have to
change the drive sprocket from 0.325" pitch to 3/8", to match the tip
sprocket. 18" was the longest bar listed at the time for 0.325"
pitch.
Several small engine repairmen have warned me not to increase the bar
length.
Recently a pro logger showed me how to cut a 2'+ tree with a saw like
mine. In addition to the notch and cut in from the back side he
plunged the blade through the middle to cut out the center of the
hinge. Then he dropped the tree exactly where he wanted, by knocking
it over with his skidder.
jsw
Yooper
>
> Recently a pro logger showed me how to cut a 2'+ tree with a saw like
> mine. In addition to the notch and cut in from the back side he plunged
> the blade through the middle to cut out the center of the hinge. Then he
> dropped the tree exactly where he wanted, by knocking it over with his
> skidder.
>
> jsw
This is risky. I've been logging in Michigan's U.P. for a lot of years.
Just cut your notch in the front, cut your center cut an inch or so above
the middle of the notch that is in front. Looking up at the tree from
the base, you can get a good idea where the lean and the weight is, and
tell pretty much which way it's going to go. If you aren't sure where
it's going to drop, it's best to get a rope on it maybe 10 or 12 feet up
and use a come along and a pulley to put some tension on the tree. If you
are starting your final cut towards the hinge and the tree seems to be
leaning back towards the saw it's a good time to drive in a plastic wedge
behind the saw blade. I don't know if this post makes any sense or not,
I'm not the best at describing things.
Wayne
The U.P. is where I do trail maintenance. I don't have to worry about
any techniques for cutting down trees though, they are already down.
Wayne D.
Jim Wilkins
It makes sense, that's what I have been doing. In addition to the long
rope I bring some 1/8" cord and a few old chain links to throw over a
high branch for better leverage. I think it's safer to tension the
rope and then complete the felling cut.
jsw
Martin H. Eastburn
metal wire fence. Normally they slam down crushing all. The fence
is holding it up! The part on the fence is 18-19" in diameter.
I'm glad I got through that - picked a route of flat and bulge.
Nice. Powered through cutting from the bottom into a V and then
doing like cuts on the top. Cut inward a little - the trunk
being only brushing on a tree and on the fence.
Today I touched it with the 50 and it did a mouse flop on the ground.
Phew - not on my feet - I was at arms length - wish I had a bucket...
Now I'm bucking up the trunk - might get the bottom end - county land -
but it is getting big. I'll likely cut it off the fence and
deal with what I have.
Hurricanes crack off trees around here every few years.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
to keep them from falling the wrong way. People think they can
cut and pull it into a spot - but the tree is very heavy and won't
wait. Constant pressure - using a far tree and tacking off to the
side so as not to pull it on yourself - this will help in starting
it - once started - just let go!
I use plastic wedges and a 5# sledge hammer (hand sledge)
to drive it and often that pressure is enough to crack the wedge.
Martin
Larry Jaques
<mic...@gmail.com> scrawled the following:
LJ, raising hand for a copy, too, Karl!
--
Imagination is the beginning of creation. You imagine what you desire,
you will what you imagine and at last you create what you will.
-- George Bernard Shaw
Steve B
"Carl" <carl...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1186fe18-38ee-4710...@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
Don't beam me up yet, Scotty. There IS intelligent life here. I cut pine
and aspen. I do know that the size of the motor has limitations (duh), but
I just wondered if anyone had an answer off the top of their heads.
Apparently some people here have other things on top of their heads, so I
guess I should have been more specific.
You have been quite clear and helpful, though. And I thank you.
Steve
Steve B
"#9" <#9@#10.invalid> wrote in message
I see the same model offered with either a 16" or 18" bar FROM THE
MANUFACTURER.
I'm soooooooooo confused.
Since you don't really have any useful information to add to the discussion,
or real answers, why don't you just shut the fuck up?
Steve
Steve B
"Wayne" <wayne1...@operamail.com> wrote in message
news:h82an.49271$kQ5....@newsfe08.iad...
I bought the saw from Norwalk, but that info in in the dead carcass of a
computer somewhere. We cut pine, juniper, and aspen around here. And
smaller stuff at that. I think the 18 may be fine. If I had it to do all
over again, I'd buy the 18-20" bar, and on the professional saw. But this
being my first saw, it hasn't disappointed me yet. Just using it more and
reaching its limits. (parameters)
Steve
Steve B
This is risky. I've been logging in Michigan's U.P. for a lot of years.
>> Just cut your notch in the front, cut your center cut an inch or so
>> above
>> the middle of the notch that is in front. Looking up at the tree from
>> the base, you can get a good idea where the lean and the weight is, and
>> tell pretty much which way it's going to go. If you aren't sure where
>> it's going to drop, it's best to get a rope on it maybe 10 or 12 feet up
>> and use a come along and a pulley to put some tension on the tree. If you
>> are starting your final cut towards the hinge and the tree seems to be
>> leaning back towards the saw it's a good time to drive in a plastic wedge
>> behind the saw blade. I don't know if this post makes any sense or not,
>> I'm not the best at describing things.
>
> The U.P. is where I do trail maintenance. I don't have to worry about
> any techniques for cutting down trees though, they are already down.
>
> Wayne D.
We bought the saw because we hired a man for $275 to cut down a tree, and he
never showed up. We bought the saw for around $235, IIRC. We had the tree
notched, and were cutting the final cut when a breeze blew up out of
nowhere. We were scrambling to get a BIG yellow ratchet tie on it before
the wind took it the other way. We were in time, and the tree dropped
perfectly, impressing my wife, which is hard to do. She thought for sure it
was going the other way and wiping out the swing set and shade canopy.
Steve
Steve B
"#9" <#9@#10.invalid> wrote in message
Steve B
"#9" <#9@#10.invalid> wrote in message
I dunno. I think you have more stupid answers than I have stupid questions,
so I guess I'll just let it go at that.
Steve
#9
Your too lazy to just look it up.
Or you really are a novice with a computer also.
Ever hear of Google, lazy ass.
So what's the next question. How to blow your nose?
cncmillgil
wrote:
How bout chain saw sharpening tricks?
Anybody ever hear of a carbide tipped chain?
Taking down (fileing) the back limiter tooth?
Not to much! .015-.-025? lower than top of tooth?
Whats the best way to dull a chain?
Hit the ground,? Keep a nice 5/32 fine cut rat tail file with you for
touchup
saw trunks with little dirt & stones?
Hit a nail or fence wire burried in the tree from 30yrs ago?
I'm thinking to bring my cordless dremel with a some small grinding
stones & a piece of carborandum (de glaze grinding stone)
Whats quicker? change chain or touch up?
Some saws are a bitch to change the chain. I hate when they get
tangled!
How to keep those vapor locked McCullough's going?
Dont shut'em off- they must boil the fuel in the hose whilst sitting
after use - let'em cool & start right up- Grrrrrr
Anyone ever see a 2 man chain saw?
BB's #65
Let not your perception
Be influenced by self-deception
Point of view
Is all about YOU
--
©¿©
~gil~
Pete Keillor
In Michigan, I had eight trees taken out at once for $200 ea. I
thought it was reasonable. Then I asked about the 110' tall
cottonwood 3'+ dia. 50' from the house. The quote was $3700. It was
still there when we sold the place, but that thing kept me up nights.
Too many of those monsters went down from time to time in the woods
out back. Now, I don't have a tree taller than the house any where
near. Hallelujah, at least until summer.
Pete Keillor
Steve B
galaxy, and they sold Husqvarns saws. I stopped in and asked.
The man who has forgotten more than I know about chain saws says I can go
with a 18", but not a 20".
One can learn a lot by observing, and by asking the man.
Steve
Steve B
How bout chain saw sharpening tricks?
I saw an EZ Lap bit today. Diamond studded. $6. I got one. After that,
it's just the right angle, and having your rakers at the right height.
I can sharpen a dull knife with my 2" x 4" EZLap stone in less than two
minutes, and that is frightfully sharp.
Steve
Martin H. Eastburn
place on the tree - more leverage that way - and tie off to a strong tree
or tractor. I make sure the direction is diverted or the tree is shorter
than chain. Taking them down from the top is better.
I did one today - it was leaning towards the hot wire fence (neighbor) and
I used chain. A downward facing bird mouth cut and about an inch or less
hinge. Today the tree was tricky - a hack-berry and it was dense and green.
I have to cut a line of trees - they were declared to be cut by myself or
cut and scrapped. I'll cut and heat with them.
The nasty tree I had this week was one that fell in from the creek zone -
18" or so and was suspended in mid air.
Martin
Jim Wilkins
Did he say why?
The story I heard was that they change to 0.325" to 3/8" pitch at 20".
I haven't looked for a 3/8" pitch drive sprocket because repairmen
warned me the saw couldn't take the extra load for long. Too many
things have broken on the saw as is.
IYou have to match the bar's slot width to the tabs under the chain.
The choices are 0.050" and 0.058", which look alike.
f the saw is Swedish and German why isn't the chain designation
metric?
jsw
Gerald Miller
When the motor on my 12" Remington let out a bit of smoke, I spent
$3.00 on a NIB 16" which, at the next issue of smoke, I transplanted
onto my 12" sprocket nose bar, giving the longer bar and chain to
second son as spares for the $3.00 Poulan "parts machine" I equipped
him with the year before.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Jim Wilkins
> ...
> When the motor on my 12" Remington let out a bit of smoke, I spent
> $3.00 on a NIB 16" which, at the next issue of smoke, I transplanted
> onto my 12" sprocket nose bar, giving the longer bar and chain to
> second son as spares for the $3.00 Poulan "parts machine" I equipped
> him with the year before.
> Gerry :-)}
I patched up cheap used chain saws for years until an ice storm
convinced me that a good dependable one is essential emergency
equipment.
Still running a ~1955 lawn mower, though.
jsw
Gerald Miller
I still have a brown Lawnboy mower but haven't run it for a while -
someday I want to investigate if those supposedly magnesium decks
really will burn. I bought it for $15.00 in 1968 and both the older
boys earned enough with it to buy themselves very nice bikes, of
course I had to do the maintenance on it, but they paid for the fuel.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Jim Chandler
Maybe you should look into selling it. Some collector of antique
mowers may want it. :-)
Jim
Jim Wilkins
> someday I want to investigate if those supposedly magnesium decks
> really will burn.
I found some magnesium in a batch of scrap aluminum I got for casting
and tried burning a small piece in the wood stove fire. It melted
first and was much harder to ignite than I expected.
jsw
Gunner Asch
wrote:
>On Feb 2, 10:41 am, #9 <#9@#10.invalid> wrote:
>> On Mon, 01 Feb 2010 20:02:53 -0800, Steve B wrote:
>>
>> > "#9" <#9@#10.invalid> wrote in message
>> >news:hk841q$pkb$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>> >> On Mon, 01 Feb 2010 18:06:15 -0800, Steve B wrote:
>>
>> >>> I have a 16" bar on my Husky 345. Can I just change that to an 18" or
>> >>> 20"?
>>
>> >>> Where can I check that?
>>
>> >>> Steve
>>
>> >> Hell, put a 48" bar and chain on it and be done with it. After all that
>> >> 32cc engine could power a crop duster plane.
>>
>> > Thank you for helping.
>>
>> No problem. I can tell you need all the help you can get.
>> Of course if you weren't so cheap you would have bought the right tool for
>> the job in the first place. A bigger bar and chain isn't going to
>> turbocharge that piss ant motor.
>>
>> Do you really believe the manufacturer is too stupid to match the
>> bar/chian to the proper motor or are engineers too dumb to do the math?
>>
>> How about an answer bunkie? Or is it just going to be more stupid
>> questions?
>
>It's surprising that no one has asked what he is cutting! If he cuts
>dry hickory, bad idea to upsize the bar as the combination will be
>under powered for difficult to cut wood. If most of what he cuts is
>fresh, wet, and soft such white pine, sweetgum or poplar the longer
>chain will likely work out all right.
>
>CarlBoyd
Correct. I have a Craftsman/Husky (you did know that Husky made em for
Craftsman ...right?) and while it came with an 18" bar..I put a 26" bar
on it for cutting palm trees and big cactus. Works fine.
Gunner
Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.
William Wixon
"Martin H. Eastburn" <lion...@consolidated.net> wrote in message
news:XD7an.187402$oC1.1...@en-nntp-01.dc1.easynews.com...
> I'm cutting a large white oak that slid down trees onto my
> metal wire fence. Normally they slam down crushing all. The fence
> is holding it up! The part on the fence is 18-19" in diameter.
> I'm glad I got through that - picked a route of flat and bulge.
> Nice. Powered through cutting from the bottom into a V and then
> doing like cuts on the top. Cut inward a little - the trunk
> being only brushing on a tree and on the fence.
>
> Today I touched it with the 50 and it did a mouse flop on the ground.
> Phew - not on my feet - I was at arms length - wish I had a bucket...
>
> Now I'm bucking up the trunk - might get the bottom end - county land -
> but it is getting big. I'll likely cut it off the fence and
> deal with what I have.
>
> Hurricanes crack off trees around here every few years.
>
> Martin
>
i did some chainsawing yesterday and the day before. a year or so ago a
huge (locust) tree limb broke off and fell across the road down the road
from me here. the town came with a huge wheel loader and pushed it (and
along with it other branches) off the road and well onto the land of a girl
scout camp here. they made a nasty tangled ugly mess. it's bugged me all
this time to see that mess. i had previously asked permission (girl scout
camp) to saw up a huge ugly tree trunk that was lying on their land near the
road and so went and sawed up this nasty tangle of branches and limbs. they
got mud all mixed up in with the limbs so i dulled a chain, which was a
frustrating bummer. i was thinking about this thread when i put a new sharp
chain on my saw, "happiness is a sharp chainsaw chain". truly. i sawed the
branches up into firewood length chunks figuring i was going to donate the
firewood somewhere to someone. (i wanted this to be "volunteer" work and i
didn't want anyone to be able to say "well you got the firewood!".) so, i
had what for me was a rather large pile, enough to fill a full-size pick up
truck bed. i called a guy i know who i worked with in the past sawing up
some trees, last time he donated the wood to a deaf lady. i thought that
was very nice of him and figured he'd know someone who needed it. he did.
i went past there today and 98% of the pile was gone. i thought he got it.
i called him and he said he didn't. the pile was kinda close to the road
and so that was kind of a cue that "this pile is free", and i intended to
put a "free" sign on it if my buddy didn't want it. i was kinda bummed to
see someone had come and taken it. i mean, i wanted to give it away, but it
would seem to me at least there was some doubt as to whether or not this
wood was up for grabs. *I* sure wouldn't've taken it. thing is, while i
was sawing and piling the wood i came across glass bottles (and a plastic
bag) that had been thrown out into the woods over the years, i put them in
with the wood hoping/thinking if someone, whoever ended up taking the wood
would also take the bottles, the bottle were neatly placed next to the now
vacant spot where the wood was. tell the truth i was devastated. ripped my
heart out. not only did some jerk "steal" my wood but he couldn't've even
been kind enough to take the (4 or 5 pieces of) "garbage".
re-re-re-confirms my belief that people suck.
b.w.
Steve W.
>
> Correct. I have a Craftsman/Husky (you did know that Husky made em for
> Craftsman ...right?) and while it came with an 18" bar..I put a 26" bar
> on it for cutting palm trees and big cactus. Works fine.
>
> Gunner
>
Craftsman L&G items have a very twisted path.
Most of them up until about 1986 were made by the outdoor department of
Roper. The outdoor division was then sold off and Electrolux grabbed it
and renamed it AYP. This lasted up until 2006 when Electrolux spun off
the outdoor division. It is still under the AYP name BUT is held under
the Husqvarna name.
Now if you really are interested in chainsaws.
Husqvarna, Craftsman, Jonsereds, Skil, Pioneer, Poulan, Weed Eater
McCulloch are ALL made by the same company!
Myself I run Stihl saws. But none of them would be considered a "hobby"
saw. I think the shortest bar is my limbing saw with a 24" bar. It has a
tiny 59cc. engine.... The big saw is a 92cc unit.
--
Steve W.
Gerald Miller
This world would be a wonderful place if it wasn't for all the people.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Martin H. Eastburn
and forgot the furnace was heating AL-Mag from a foreign car engine
and it got to hot and was white hot! It burnt through my Stainless
steel cup. I was able to dig a hole and plant the white hot pot
into it to cool off by itself. Metal ran out of the bottom of the
furnace. We melted again and did so so on the project.
Martin
Gunner Asch
wrote:
>Gunner Asch wrote:
>>
>> Correct. I have a Craftsman/Husky (you did know that Husky made em for
>> Craftsman ...right?) and while it came with an 18" bar..I put a 26" bar
>> on it for cutting palm trees and big cactus. Works fine.
>>
>> Gunner
>>
>
>Craftsman L&G items have a very twisted path.
>Most of them up until about 1986 were made by the outdoor department of
>Roper. The outdoor division was then sold off and Electrolux grabbed it
>and renamed it AYP. This lasted up until 2006 when Electrolux spun off
>the outdoor division. It is still under the AYP name BUT is held under
>the Husqvarna name.
Really? I was unaware of this. Thanks!
>
>Now if you really are interested in chainsaws.
>
>Husqvarna, Craftsman, Jonsereds, Skil, Pioneer, Poulan, Weed Eater
>McCulloch are ALL made by the same company!
That explains much!
>
>
>Myself I run Stihl saws. But none of them would be considered a "hobby"
>saw. I think the shortest bar is my limbing saw with a 24" bar. It has a
>tiny 59cc. engine.... The big saw is a 92cc unit.
Good saws. I missed one a few years ago at a yard sale.
Steve W.
I used Stihl for year when I was cutting and selling firewood. At that
time Husky still made a good saw as well. Now, unless you buy the
commercial models they have made some of them so cheap they last a year
or so.
Most of mine get used now for fire and rescue work. I like the fact that
I can go out, flip the switch, choke and pull the rope at most twice and
have a running saw. Of course I also dump the gas out every month and
refill with new gas with Stabil in it. Keeps them in good shape.
The only catch is that I will not loan out my saws to ANYONE. I go with
them. Two reasons for that. Most folks who use saws don't use the type
of chain I use. The stuff I use is VERY aggressive and has no safety
features other than being SHARP. If it does kick back the damage will
probably be major, but at least it will have a nice clean edge ;-)
Second is that a good saw is not cheap.
--
Steve W.