It's a run what you brung kinda project. Took 6.5 hours to mill the top
plate. Only took about 2 to make the bottom plate. It takes 28 minutes per
run to cut ten sheets plus a sacrificial one. I jacked up the speed and cut
them at about 17 minutes, but the quality went to heck.
Obvious a vinyl plotter would have been better and just feed it some velum,
but this works and provides a really professional result.
... and I have this machine. LOL.
Cool!
But..why didnt you simply make a die stamp and press em out?
Even an arbor press would have done the job and you would have knocked
out one lable with each fast stroke?
Gunner
"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.
This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost
Neat. I've "made a sandwich" to cut thin brass and AL, never paper. BTW,
your rapid speeds (G0) seem extremely slow. We need to get the production
rate up or you'll never make money.
Thanks for sharing. BTW, who was the director of the movie?<VBG>
Karl
I tried a simple hammer punch at first and I was very unhappy with the
results. Probably my available metals. I wasn't sure how to go about
making a stamping plate that would work. I dunno know though. The hammer
punch was made from the driveshaft of an outboard lower unit.
> Even an arbor press would have done the job and you would have knocked
> out one lable with each fast stroke?
I've got a hydraulic press. Maybe if I saw a stamping plate setup in
operation I could figure out how to make one, although the way I picture it
in my mind I would need to make three detailed pieces to make it work.
Relief plate, guide/clamp, & punch plate. All three would need to have all
buttons machined. I could write the code after some experimentation now in
a reasonable time to cut each piece, but it takes a lot of time, and after
my hammer punch experiment I wasn't sure I wanted to spend 6+ hours
machining each piece. And I am thinking atleast the punch plate would need
to be hardened.
This is a small project. I may never need to do any more of them after this
job, but I will save the plates and the code(s) on a mem card with them.
Ten years from now I'll look at the two plates and laugh about how silly I
was to do it that way.
Yeah, the max I have set on my machine is 20 x 20 by 10 when you over ride
that's as fast as it can go. Any faster and it has problems. My plunges
are all running at F6. Like I said I ran over ride to speed that up and I
got a spur cut on one row of buttons on the goto safe Z for some reason. I
tried it three times, and finally I dropped it back. It was a very
consistent gremlin. I slowed it back down and the gremlin went away. Its
not spindle speed vibration. I was turning 10K in all runs.
I already made money. This is just fun. I'll make a couple more sets today
while I am in the office paying bills. Then this afternoon I'll put them on
the customer's phones.
The way its cutting I could probably make my pocket deeper and do them 20 or
more at a time though. Doubling the plunge depth would not double the
production time. I only need about 30 sheets total. I'm making some extras
for the customer just because.
> Thanks for sharing. BTW, who was the director of the movie?<VBG>
I missed that part. Who was it. ;^)
>
> Karl
>
>
>
Just FYI, I was also experimenting with making easily rough truing fixtures.
The bottom plate squares to the table with a lip on the bottom each time I
reattach it to the table. Then I just need to find my center and I am good
to go. The top plate is also pretty consistent, but I made the screw holes
to big. If I do another one, I'll go for very snug fitting screw holes and
taper the top of the threaded hole on the bottom plate for faster alignment.
I might even go so far as to taper the top of the pocket for the bottom
plate. Get it close and snug up the screws for self alignment of the top
plate to the bottom plate. It does that now, but the pocket and relief are
square. Deeper pocket and taller relief would also have helped. If I'd had
a piece of half for the bottom I would have done it that way. With the .375
I was paranoid about not having enough thickness to correct for mistakes.
LOL.
My secondary goal was also to learn to make a fixture plate for the table
that would have a self truing fence for quick square alignment. A short
fence on both top and bottom and a bunch of threaded holes for cams and
clamps so I could very quickly square a work piece to my cutting planes.
Now I just need to order some 1/2 or 3/4 plate to make it.