masonry drill warning
Hul Tytus
masonry drill warning
Anyone know why a 1/4 masonry drill has a warning "don't use on a drill press"
? This came from a local hardware store.
Hul
Andrew VK3BFA
Its mandated there by the same people who put "don't touch moving
blade" on chainsaws. And its a vain and futile attempt to protect the
really dumb from themselves - it usually doesn't work (ie, they don't/
cant/wont/ read the instructions) and the lucky ones get nominated for
Darwin Awards.
Just my opinion, of course. Sorta makes sense.
Andrew VK3BFA
Steve Walker
It's been my experience that a carbide tip breaking off is safer when it
happens in a hand drill, away from your face, than in a drill press at
chest or eye level. YMMV
--
Steve Walker
Fusi...@verizonwallet.com (remove wallet to reply)
Joseph Gwinn
wrote:
I have no idea, and I have used masonry drills in a drill press to drill
through hardened steel. Very noisy, boils the coolant and nonetheless
ruins the drill, but it does work.
Joe Gwinn
sparky
bag of peanuts saying "warning, contains peanuts"
Jim Wilkins
> On Dec 28, 12:26 am, Hul Tytus <h...@panix.com> wrote:
> > Anyone know why a 1/4 masonry drill has a warning "don't use on a drill press"
>
> Its mandated there by the same people who put "don't touch moving
> Andrew VK3BFA
I have a tube of bandsaw blade wax that warns not to apply it to a
moving blade.
jsw
Lib Loo
"Hul Tytus" <h...@panix.com> wrote in message
news:hh7n9a$shu$1...@reader1.panix.com...
What type of masonry is your drill press made of?
Jim Wilkins
> "Hul Tytus" <h...@panix.com> wrote in message
> > press"
> > ? This came from a local hardware store.
>
> > Hul
>
> What type of masonry is your drill press made of?
Post-tensioned concrete.
Rick
If it's your typical Vermont American double flute, I've found the shanks on
some are soft enough to be bent over by hand while chucked .
Couple of guesses..in a hand drill they are free to drift a little when
hitting the edge of aggregate. Could also be an issue with the powder
jamming the bit in the hole.
The Henchman
"Hul Tytus" <h...@panix.com> wrote in message
news:hh7n9a$shu$1...@reader1.panix.com...
Masonry drills are designed for slower speeds and hammering action. Using
these bits in a drill is not the best idea because you'll need a good jig to
hold your workpiece down. Most people can't design a jig. Also masonry
bits tend to crush during cutting which makes them a poor choice to use on a
drill press because they'll walk or skate unless you apply lots of pressure.
It's easier to apply pressure by using a hand drill/hammer drill than many
small home shop drill presses. They seem a bit dangerous to use on a press.
Mark Rand
masonry bits, as supplied have a significant negative rake cutting edge. they
are meant to be used in a hammer drill with brittle materials. As supplied
they will perform very poorly on any metal. If you know enough to re-sharpen
them correctly for use when drilling hardened steel, you know enough to safely
ignore the warning :-)
Mark Rand
RTFM
Wes
>Anyone know why a 1/4 masonry drill has a warning "don't use on a drill press"
>? This came from a local hardware store.
I'm speculating, but maybe with the cutting geometry of a masonry drill, they are
concerned that a drill press will cause enough friction to loosen the bond between the
carbide and steel body.
Masonry drills are not very sharp.
Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
T.Alan Kraus
It's difficult to balance the masonry on the drill press table? :)
Cydrome Leader
because you're supposed to use then with a hammer drill, not a drill
press.
they work by crushing concrete or whatever, not cutting into it.
If you don't believe it, just look at the tip. There's nothing cutting or
sharp about it.
With a hammer drill you can drill masonry with regular bits, but they will
break quicker.
Martin H. Eastburn
No matter what you do, at a drill press stuff cuts and chips and flies.
Use an apron, face shield and ear protection and then some.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
I have a hammer drill now - a 1/2" SDS+ with a chuck as well. Before that,
I used a regular 3/8" slow slow speed drill. One drill I wish I still had.
Those drills are older than hand drills. I have a 3/4" 12" carbide drill.
It was for drilling through a 8"+ floor. My dad bought it in the late 50's.
The shaft to chuck up is smooth round. It is designed to slip.
He used his 1/2" death defying hand drill with gear train and it had to be
piped to something and held. If the drill caught and wrapped the drill around
it would keep turning with the power off for a number of turns.
My hammer is electronic control and is fast stop.
Martin
Michael A. Terrell
Come on Jim, everyone knows that's what earwax is for. Just make
sure to remove it from the ear, first. ;-)
--
Greed is the root of all eBay.
Rick
"Cydrome Leader" <pres...@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:hh96vg$iti$2...@reader1.panix.com...
He may not have a rotary/percussion bit..there are common "hardware store"
masonry bits that are for rotary use only, as shown here:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/relton/techinfo.html
Mark Rand
>Hul Tytus <h...@panix.com> wrote:
>
>>Anyone know why a 1/4 masonry drill has a warning "don't use on a drill press"
>>? This came from a local hardware store.
>
>I'm speculating, but maybe with the cutting geometry of a masonry drill, they are
>concerned that a drill press will cause enough friction to loosen the bond between the
>carbide and steel body.
>
>Masonry drills are not very sharp.
>
>Wes
I have done that on one occasion when I thought I'd hit a bit of quartz in the
concrete that turned out to be an unexpected re-bar. After making no progress
for some time and leaning on the drill as hard as I could, I pulled the bit
out of the hole and saw that the end had gone blue and the carbide fell out of
the slot it was brazed into...
Mark Rand
RTFM
Wes
>I have done that on one occasion when I thought I'd hit a bit of quartz in the
>concrete that turned out to be an unexpected re-bar. After making no progress
>for some time and leaning on the drill as hard as I could, I pulled the bit
>out of the hole and saw that the end had gone blue and the carbide fell out of
>the slot it was brazed into...
You got lucky. I hit some rebar and the rotary hammer drill damn flipped me over.
Wes