DB connectors
Karl Townsend
My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
26 pin places to connect.
I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
connector plug I'm after is similar to this picture:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A32073-ND
or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
show the connector.
I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
tool.
can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
Karl
Rich Grise
This might give you a starting point:
http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/menu/en/19342?BML=19138,19229
Good Luck!
Rich
Dave B
Karl
Have you ever used Mouser?
Mouser.com
http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/D-Subminiature-Connectors/_/N-2d8uj?P=1z0vlpeZ1z0wxom
Regards
Karl Townsend
OK, I selected crimp, then male and got this is the first part:
617-09-56-200-5601
Now do i need some sort of shell, some kind of pins, missing anything
else? Any special tool?
Karl
Karl Townsend
<karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Just looked some more I think maybe crimp is for ribbon cable?? I have
individual wires.
karl
Dave B
<karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>617-09-56-200-5601
I always solder but here are the tools
db
Dave B
<karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>617-09-56-200-5601
Make sure you look close at the tools as they are expensive.
I had ribbon cabbles made up today 2 @ 15 each took 10 minutes and
saved me a headache.
db
Karl Townsend
wrote:
This kit looks great, i'd have everyting i need.
can't see how to navigate to get the right number of pins. AND they
don't give prices withoug a major log in event. They won't get my
business.
Karl
Dave B
<karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
I have a good crimper I suppose i could use it for that if I had the
correct die.
After soldering connectors for many moons it never crosses my mind
although crimp is nicer (neater) once you have the tool it last's a
lifetime.
db
Pete C.
I'm pretty sure they don't sell direct anyway. Digi-Key will have all
you need. Just find the style of connector shells you like and the
matching crimp pins. Easy stuff, and yes, the crimp pins are a lot
easier to work with than the fixed solder cup connectors. Being the
backup for your backup type, I tend to solder the pins after crimping
them. Never had a problem with them. Be sure to get one of the pin
removal tools as well in case you miss the correct hole and need to get
the pin back out.
Michael A. Terrell
Karl Townsend wrote:
>
> I need to make up connectors like you see on the back of a computer.
> My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
> 26 pin places to connect.
>
> I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
> connector plug I'm after is similar to this picture:
>
> or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
> show the connector.
>
> I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
> something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
> tool.
Karl, they aren't that hard to solder if you pretin the wire & the
terminal in the connector. Then put a drop of RMA liquid rosin flux on
the terminal. Hold the tinned wire against the notch in the terminal &
reheat. The wire will pus into the notch and you will have a clean
joint without burning anything. make sure you use good solder, like
Ersin (Multicore). Cheap solder is no bargain at any price.
I just clamp the connector in a small, smooth jawed drill press vise
so i don't have to chase it around the bench. If I have many to do, I
clamp a mating conncetor in the vise to safe time.
I can show you how when you pass through Ocala in a couple weeks if
you'd like. I could even make the cables for you if your wire isn't
already part of a machine.
--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.
Karl Townsend
I just selected a bunch of solder type from digikey. I'll hire it out
locally. I don't even try to solder anything smaller than #18 wire and
it has to be to a through hole type pin. Its a skill I was poor at
years ago, and I got worse.
karl
Michael A. Terrell
I always prefered the solder type, since they are easy to modify or
re use. :)
Rich Grise
> Karl Townsend wrote:
>> On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 23:13:32 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
I was partial to the crimp&shove type, primarily because one day some AMP
rep gave me a crimper that would cost about $300.00 if you bought it. ;-)
And these things are almost free:
http://www.tecratools.com/product1199.html
Cheers!
Rich
Rich Grise
>
> Just looked some more I think maybe crimp is for ribbon cable?? I have
> individual wires.
No, for ribbon you use IDC (Insulation Displacement Connectors).
For wires, you use individual pins, which usually come on a strip.
Do some googling, maybe for D-Sub tutorial?
Holy crap!
http://www.l-com.com/content/D-Subminiature-Tutorial.html
;-)
Have Fun!
Rich
Rich Grise
>
> I'm pretty sure they don't sell direct anyway. Digi-Key will have all you
> need. Just find the style of connector shells you like and the matching
> crimp pins. Easy stuff, and yes, the crimp pins are a lot easier to work
> with than the fixed solder cup connectors. Being the backup for your
> backup type, I tend to solder the pins after crimping them. Never had a
> problem with them. Be sure to get one of the pin removal tools as well in
> case you miss the correct hole and need to get the pin back out.
This reminds me. If there's a lot of mechanical motion, the wires can
break off at the pins, so you'd need the tool to pop them out; to prevent
this, if there's an option available, get pins "with insulation support."
There's one crimp around the wire, and a slightly larger crimp around the
insulation, to act as sort of a strain relief.
Cheers!
Rich
Karl Townsend
Thanks for the mouser link. I got up this morning and quickly selected
crimp connectors for just a few bucks. same stuff was $30 each at
digikey. I just placed an order and I'll crimp as best I can with
what I got and then solder reinforce. There's only four contacts used
in each plug.
thanks again
Karl
axolotl
>
> I just selected a bunch of solder type from digikey. I'll hire it out
> locally. I don't even try to solder anything smaller than #18 wire and
> it has to be to a through hole type pin. Its a skill I was poor at
> years ago, and I got worse.
There is another assembly option. Some places mass terminate solder cup
type connectors using solder sleeves- a short piece of shrink tubing
with a stripe of solder paste on the inside (Raychem is one
manufacturer). Put the connector in a vise, put a solder barrel over
each connector solder cup, strip the wire and poke it down into the
desired solder cup. The solder barrel is able to hold the wire in place
until all the wires are positioned. Hit the connector with a heat gun.
The solder barrels shrink and the solder paste inside them melts, flows,
and makes the connection. You end up with tight insulated connections.
Kevin Gallimore
Jim Wilkins
wrote:
> ...
> I just clamp the connector in a small, smooth jawed drill press vise
> so i don't have to chase it around the bench. If I have many to do, I
> clamp a mating conncetor in the vise to safe time.
I use a small one like this:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=328-0124&PMPXNO=24730466&PARTPG=INLMK32
Stand the vise on end so the solder cups are horizontal with the notch
up, and weight the wire to stay in place. Don't forget the heatshrink.
The vise puts the work low enought that you can rest your hand on the
bench to steady it.
DB connectors are a vacation at the beach compared to Lemo and Binder
solder connectors:
http://www.binder-usa.com/psearch_detail.php?pid=6674
Except for not touching the tip I find puddle control for soldering
and TIG welding very similar. I practiced joining 4130 tubing for the
first time at school last night.
jsw
Winston
(...)
> Now do i need some sort of shell, some kind of pins, missing anything
> else? Any special tool?
Mouser 530-40-9558M are pre-crimped.
You click the proper connector into the proper hole,
fasten the hood in place and plug an RJ-45 modular
cable in back.
Bob's Your Uncle.
--Winston
Wild_Bill
soldering where a tweezer-type tool heats the connection with a very low
voltage, moderately high current that passes thru the contact's solder cup,
creating very localized heat.
The wire ends are stripped and tinned, and the solder cups at the ends of
the contacts are tinned and partially filled with solder.
The tweezers are "pinched" onto the contact (each side of the solder cup),
the resistance soldering station is energized (foot switch, typically), and
the tinned wire end is pushed into the molten solder puddle in the cup as
the heat increases to the flow temperature of the solder.
The current beiefly passes thru the contact, solder and wire end until the
operator releases the foot switch, and then moves the tweezer tips to the
next solder cup to repeat the process.
The tweezer tips only need to be kept clean (not tinned) so they can provide
a good electrical connection with the contact or terminal to be soldered.
Te resistance soldering station provides a line/mains-isolated low voltage
from a transformer that may have a variable duty cycle triac circuit, to
adjust how fast the heat is generated in the contact.
The variable duty cycle allows the operator to adjust/tune for different
sized connections (very light duty for miniature contacts, or more sustained
current cycles for heavy duty terminals).
--
WB
.........
"axolotl" <munge...@shorecomp.com> wrote in message
news:iau4jj$ggm$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
sta...@prolynx.com
wrote:
> I need to make up connectors like you see on the back of a computer.
> My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
> 26 pin places to connect.
>
> I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
>
> or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
> show the connector.
>
> I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
> something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
> tool.
>
> can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
>
> Karl
Having soldered and crimped literally hundreds of DB-25s, I can say
crimping is much faster, tool is much more expensive, though. If
you're going to use this stuff on anything with a lot of vibration, go
for the crimp. Eventually a soldered wire joint will fail just above
where the pin is soldered on, given enough vibration. Found that out
on the VW injection harness...
The pins are NOT Molex pins, you'll need either a different set of
dies or a whole new crimper. Prices are all over the place depending
on who's name is branded on its butt. Pins are pretty cheap, though.
You'll want the special gizmo to remove pins, you WILL get one in the
wrong hole eventually, trust me on this. Easier to swap crimped pins
than to unsolder and resolder solder pot connectors.
Solder-pot connectors aren't that hard to do, it's just tedious work,
tin wires, tin the pot, insert wire while heating pin, repeat ad
nauseum. Helps to have the connector held in a vise, but I've done it
hand-held.
If you really want to do a posh job, a short length of shrink tube
right over the joints is the finishing touch. Gives a bit of strain
relief and a bit of protection should something conductive make its
way in.
Stan
Tim Wescott
Crimpers for those things need to be high quality, and the decent ones
cost $$$.
--
Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
Michael A. Terrell
Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
> On Nov 3, 11:13 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" ?mike.terr...@earthlink.net?
> wrote:
> ? ...
> ? I just clamp the connector in a small, smooth jawed drill press vise
> ? so i don't have to chase it around the bench. If I have many to do, I
> ? clamp a mating conncetor in the vise to safe time.
> ? ...
>
> I use a small one like this:
>
> Stand the vise on end so the solder cups are horizontal with the notch
> up, and weight the wire to stay in place. Don't forget the heatshrink.
> The vise puts the work low enought that you can rest your hand on the
> bench to steady it.
>
> DB connectors are a vacation at the beach compared to Lemo and Binder
> solder connectors:
> http://www.binder-usa.com/psearch_detail.php?pid=6674
>
> Except for not touching the tip I find puddle control for soldering
> and TIG welding very similar. I practiced joining 4130 tubing for the
> first time at school last night.
The worst were cables for old TV studio cameras with a lot of coax
and different sized pins. It could take you days to do one plug. :(
RCA was bad enough, but I've heard that the Philips cables were so
bad that guys would threaten to quit before they would repair one.
Michael A. Terrell
Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
> On Nov 3, 11:13 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" ?mike.terr...@earthlink.net?
> wrote:
> ? ...
> ? so i don't have to chase it around the bench. If I have many to do, I
> ? clamp a mating connector in the vise to save time.
> ? ...
>
> I use a small one like this:
I get:
'The Enco Model Number that you entered could not be located.'
Jim Wilkins
wrote:
> Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
> > On Nov 3, 11:13 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" ?mike.terr...@earthlink.net?
> > wrote:
> > ? ...
> > ? I just clamp the connector in a small, smooth jawed drill press vise
> > ? so i don't have to chase it around the bench. If I have many to do, I
> > ? clamp a mating connector in the vise to save time.
> > ? ...
>
> > I use a small one like this:
>
> I get:
>
> 'The Enco Model Number that you entered could not be located.'
Try searching for MSC 56451263:
http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=17738631
Better price,too.
jsw
Michael A. Terrell
Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
> On Nov 4, 4:42 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Jim Wilkins wrote:
> >
> > > On Nov 3, 11:13 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" ?mike.terr...@earthlink.net?
> > > wrote:
> > > ? ...
> > > ? I just clamp the connector in a small, smooth jawed drill press vise
> > > ? so i don't have to chase it around the bench. If I have many to do, I
> > > ? clamp a mating connector in the vise to save time.
> > > ? ...
> >
> > > I use a small one like this:
> > >http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=328-0124?PMPXNO=24730466?PAR...
> >
> > I get:
> >
> > 'The Enco Model Number that you entered could not be located.'
>
> Try searching for MSC 56451263:
> http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=17738631
> Better price,too.
That link worked.
Similar to the 4" one I use, and it cost me $7 new. :)
Karl Townsend
<mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>
>> On Nov 4, 4:42 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
>> wrote:
>> > Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> >
>> > > On Nov 3, 11:13 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" ?mike.terr...@earthlink.net?
>> > > wrote:
>> > > ? ...
>> > > ? I just clamp the connector in a small, smooth jawed drill press vise
>> > > ? so i don't have to chase it around the bench. If I have many to do, I
>> > > ? clamp a mating connector in the vise to save time.
>> > > ? ...
>> >
>> > > I use a small one like this:
>> > >http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=328-0124?PMPXNO=24730466?PAR...
>> >
>> > I get:
>> >
>> > 'The Enco Model Number that you entered could not be located.'
>>
>> Try searching for MSC 56451263:
>> http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=17738631
>> Better price,too.
>
>
> That link worked.
>
> Similar to the 4" one I use, and it cost me $7 new. :)
I got mine for free. it was my first machine shop project in 1974 for
my manufacturing engineer design and build class. We started by
casting the AL frame. Our team must have spent 400 hours setting up
and making a dozen. No such thing as an NC machine in that class. The
whole point of the class was to set up small scale manufacturing.
That class is when my love affair with metal mangling, and the
machines that do it, began.
karl
Karl
Larry Jaques
Excellent price. I paid $30 for a 3" sine from 800watt on eBay a few
years ago.
--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
Karl Townsend
wrote:
>On 11/03/2010 06:51 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
>> I need to make up connectors like you see on the back of a computer.
>> My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
>> 26 pin places to connect.
>>
>> I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
>> connector plug I'm after is similar to this picture:
>> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A32073-ND
>>
>> or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
>> show the connector.
>>
>> I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
>> something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
>> tool.
>>
>> can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
>
>Crimpers for those things need to be high quality, and the decent ones
>cost $$$.
I guess I'll find out. I plan to crimp them with whatever I can come
up with and then solder before inserting. Total cost was under $20 so
I'm not out much if it don't work. Plan "B" would be to hire the job
out and get the solder type.
Karl
Michael A. Terrell
400 hours over 12 units isn't really free. ;)
I had mine and was using it in under an hour. :)
Tim Wescott
The pins have a round barrel into which you insert the wire. The
crimper pushes four hardened pins into the barrel, dimpling it and
pressing it onto the wire. Tres fancy. Because the barrel of the pin
extends down into the hole in the housing you can't just crimp it by
crushing it -- you have to do something that'll make it grip the wire
without deforming it to the point where it won't go into its hole.
(I think the barrel is relieved where the crimper dimples it, so any
little 'outies' don't interfere with putting it into the housing).
How far out in the boonies are you? Any electronics place that deals
with DB connectors has a chance at having the crimper; if there's a
contract cable assembly guy near you he'd probably be happy to make them up.
Note: I'd solder them myself, but I solder all the time. If I had to
hire it done I'd either make damn sure the guy understood crimped DB
connections, or I'd hire a kid to do the soldering and I'd stand over
him for the first few connectors to make sure they were right. If I
made more than 10 cables a year I'd probably buy a crimper -- but I make
less than 1, on average.
Karl Townsend
wrote:
Thanks for the info. i can duplicate that easily. I'll drill a hole in
scrap stock to hold the pin. Then a cross hole to hold a center punch.
Put wire and pin in there and give it a slight whack for an indent.
Then solder it.
karl
Martin Eastburn
Another option is all in one socket.
Molex is another option. Round Cannon is another option.
D's require a D shaped hole while cannon are screw on and are round
holes. Molex is typically square.
Consider the holes you have to mount them into.
Each end could be different - matching the machine to machine.
Martin
On 11/3/2010 8:51 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
> I need to make up connectors like you see on the back of a computer.
> My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
> 26 pin places to connect.
>
> I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
> connector plug I'm after is similar to this picture:
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A32073-ND
>
> or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
> show the connector.
>
> I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
> something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
> tool.
>
> can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
>
> Karl
>
Martin Eastburn
Martin
On 11/3/2010 9:38 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
> On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 21:31:26 -0500, Karl Townsend
> <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 19:11:26 -0700, Dave B<deb...@hm.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 20:51:10 -0500, Karl Townsend
>>> <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I need to make up connectors like you see on the back of a computer.
>>>> My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
>>>> 26 pin places to connect.
>>>>
>>>> I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
>>>> connector plug I'm after is similar to this picture:
>>>> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A32073-ND
>>>>
>>>> or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
>>>> show the connector.
>>>>
>>>> I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
>>>> something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
>>>> tool.
>>>>
>>>> can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
>>>>
>>>> Karl
>>>
>>> Karl
>>> Have you ever used Mouser?
>>> Mouser.com
>>>
>>> http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/D-Subminiature-Connectors/_/N-2d8uj?P=1z0vlpeZ1z0wxom
>>>
>>> Regards
>>
>> OK, I selected crimp, then male and got this is the first part:
>> 617-09-56-200-5601
>>
>> Now do i need some sort of shell, some kind of pins, missing anything
>> else? Any special tool?
>>
Wild_Bill
than described, Tim.
Typical contacts for commercial grade sub-D connectors are similar to Molex
contacts, but much smaller.. but they also have two sets of tabs that form U
shapes, one where the stripped wire gets crimped, and the second set for
gripping the wire's insulation.
The cross-section of the crimp area for the wire looks like the tabs rolled
in to form someting like a 3 with a radius at the opening of the 3.
The better quality crimpers will be compound-action types with ratcheting
mechanisms to insure a full cycle, and numerous brands are good ones.. AMP,
Black Box, Sargent, etc (all made in U.S.A.).
A simple scissor-type crimp tool will likely produce inconsistent crimps..
some may be OK, others may separate from the wire or be loosely crimped to
the wire strands.
The crimper you described is generally for (fully round) machined contacts
with heavier wall thicknesses, as used in high reliability avionics-type or
aircraft circular connectors, but also used in higher quality sub-D
connectors.
Those crimpers sorta resemble a Buchanan splice crimper with an extension
tube protruding from one side (Daniels tool, etc).
The higher quality contacts are much better quality that typical commercial
grade contacts which are stamped and formed from thin sheet brass.
You're definitely correct about not crushing the crimp areas with an
incorrect tool, as the widening of the contact will interfere with proper
installation, and the contacts are supposed to somewhat float in the
connector bodies, but have good alignment.
For myself, soldering pre-assembled connectors is quicker than crimping, and
a proper soldering job should be more reliable than crimping for someone
that doesn't have some crimping experience, and definitely more reliable
than trying to improvise a good crimp without the proper crimp tool.
--
WB
.........
"Tim Wescott" <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote in message
news:k8ydnRA3-_F5_k7R...@web-ster.com...
DoN. Nichols
> I need to make up connectors like you see on the back of a computer.
> My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
> 26 pin places to connect.
>
> I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
> connector plug I'm after is similar to this picture:
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A32073-ND
>
> or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
> show the connector.
O.K. Because that one is designed for mounting directly to a
printed circuit board. Not the one you need.
> I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
> something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
> tool.
AMP makes nice ones for individual wire crimp terminals, but the
size of the crimp is different from the Molex crimpers which I have
seen. There are very good crimpers from AMP for the purpose (go to eBay
for reasonable prices, or be sitting down for the new prices), and cheap
ones also from AMP which are not as good. (The good ones crimp double
flag pins -- one for the wire and another for supporting the insulation.
The cheap crimper crimps one set of flags at a time, and you then have
to flip it over to crimp the other half.
If you're really intrested in the good crimpers -- ask and I'll
look up the number on mine. It has a nest to hold the pin in the right
position for the crimping as well.
Tycho is the current name for AMP connectors.
Or -- if you want to do ribbon cable crimping, there are good
terminals for those as well -- and they crimp all wires at once, but
require yet another crimping tool -- or a bit of shop work to make your
own supports to crimp in a vise.
Here is an example (25 pin):
<http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=L17DBFRA25S-ND>
I'm not at all sure about a 26-pin three row. (Unless you are
talking about the connector used for VGA monitor connections?) Those
use smaller pins, and I don't think that there are ribbon cable
connectors for those -- the pin spacing does not work out right.
The three-row ones which I am familiar with are the DD-50 ones,
normal sized pins, three rows, and they are made in ribbon-cable crimp
style.
Here is the digikey search for the D-series ribbon cable ones.
You'll have to find another vendor than Digi-Key for the T&B
Ansley connectors which I prefer for ribbon cable connectors.
Hmm ... looks like they are out of business. However, here is a
substitute -- which DigiKey apparently carries (message dates from
2003, so the catalog and page number are probably wrong.
======================================================================
Unless you can find some new old stock you may be
out of luck.
CW Industries makes the IDCs in the same
style but are darker blue than T&B Ansley.
DigiKey lists them in catalog B022 on page 18.
======================================================================
> can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
you need.
Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
DoN. Nichols
> On Thu, 04 Nov 2010 18:54:04 -0700, Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com>
> wrote:
[ ... ]
>>The pins have a round barrel into which you insert the wire. The
>>crimper pushes four hardened pins into the barrel, dimpling it and
>>pressing it onto the wire. Tres fancy. Because the barrel of the pin
>>extends down into the hole in the housing you can't just crimp it by
>>crushing it -- you have to do something that'll make it grip the wire
>>without deforming it to the point where it won't go into its hole.
>>
>>(I think the barrel is relieved where the crimper dimples it, so any
>>little 'outies' don't interfere with putting it into the housing).
[ ... ]
> Thanks for the info. i can duplicate that easily. I'll drill a hole in
> scrap stock to hold the pin. Then a cross hole to hold a center punch.
> Put wire and pin in there and give it a slight whack for an indent.
> Then solder it.
NO!
1) Note that he said *four* hardened pins -- pushing equally from
four sides at 90 degree intervals, so the pin stays centered.
If you do it with a center punch, things will be deformed in
such a way that they won't go into the hole in the connector
body well.
2) The same with solder. (Aside from not having access for the
solder to the actual joint which is buried down in the tube, not
out where you can get to it.)
And the solder will bulge out as well, to make it not fit well
in the connector body hole.
*And* -- you won't be able to extract pins which wind up in the
wrong hole when (not if) you get one wrong. (You do need the
insertion/extraction tool to go with the pins.)
There are two styles of pins to consider.
A) The round machined pins which he described, which require
a *very* expensive crimper, a special bushing nest for each size
and gender of pin, and the machined pins are quite expensive
too.
B) The ones with flag crimps. I've described this style before.
The crimper for these is still expensive -- but less so, and a
lot easier to find on eBay at an affordable price. (The other
still leaves you with having to find the right bushing nests for
your pins.
The flag crimp pins are significantly less expensive (but not
aerospace grade).
An example of the first style of crimper is the Daniels:
Auction # 230b3500c4 -- I think.
Note that the first row of pictures is the proper style of crimper,
though no idea whether the bushing nest in there is right.
The "doorknob" sticking out of the side is the bushing nest.
Some of the photos in the second row are for a larger style, designed
for larger pins, with a bushing which changes between sizes (but none of
them tht you need). No certainty which he is really selling. :-(
And *this* one looks like the one for the flag type terminals for the D
series connectors (of which DB-25 is one size). It has two crimp dies,
and two support holes for two different gauges of wire. (One crimp
terminal is marked with a blue dot, the other with a red dot.
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=230527025153>
Auction # 230527025153 for sure.
If you really care -- ask me, and I'll verify whether this is
the right model by comparing it to what I have (after I dig them up).
(90312-1).
Good luck,
Karl Townsend
>And *this* one looks like the one for the flag type terminals for the D
>series connectors (of which DB-25 is one size). It has two crimp dies,
>and two support holes for two different gauges of wire. (One crimp
>terminal is marked with a blue dot, the other with a red dot.
>
><http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=230527025153>
>
> Auction # 230527025153 for sure.
>
> If you really care -- ask me, and I'll verify whether this is
>the right model by comparing it to what I have (after I dig them up).
>(90312-1).
>
> Good luck,
> DoN.
DAMN! Auction closed before I read your post. Yes, I'll buy the right
tool. Would you help me find one on eBay, please.
I bought from mouser, part 09 56 200 5601 as one example.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/HARTING/09-56-200-5601/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu857ZbtCGHt%252bg0lJioweBEJJEPpKhSkeE%3d
also 15 pin and 25 pin. Looks like they have a good selection and
cheap pricing.
DoN, Thanks for your offer to help, ahead of time. You are certainly
the crimper expert on RCM.
Karl
Karl Townsend
wrote:
DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
tool.
See my other response to your other post.
Karl
Karl Townsend
>> Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
>>you need.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>> DoN.
>
>DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
>This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
>buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
>tool.
>
>See my other response to your other post.
>
>Karl
DoN, I've been surfing for crimp tool and found this:
http://www.dataaccessories.com/dsub.html
The pins sure look like a molex type to me on the page. Anyway, I'll
pop for $50 if this solves my little problem.
Karl
WayneJ
<karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
> ...
>>> Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
>>> you need.
>>>
>>> Good Luck,
>>> DoN.
>>
>> DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
>> This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
>> buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
>> tool.
>>
>> See my other response to your other post.
>>
>> Karl
I'm coming into this discussion way late, you've received a lot of good
information and can make your choice. Personally, with only four wires per
connector I would probably use a solder pot connector and be done with it
quickly if I did not have a proper crimper. But there is really no
absolutely correct answer except don't solder a properly crimped pin.
There's no benefit and significant loss.
I thought the connector info might be of use to someone out there. The D
submin connectors come in at least 5 different shell sizes, and each shell
size can have either of two or more numbers of pins. Thus the old standard
serial data cable used a DB25 connector - a D submin connector with a B
size shell and 25 pins, standard density. The VGA monitor video cable used
a DE15 connector - E size shell and 15 pins, high density.
I made this chart at a place I used to work to help cut down on confusion
when people would ask for things like "a cable with a DB15 connector"
which of course does not exist. We used both DA15 and DE15 connectors so
naturally they ended up with the wrong thing a good part of the time.
The chart lists the D submin connector sizes and the standard and high
density pin counts. We used the DE19 "special hi density" connectors quite
a bit but you won't run into them if you're lucky.
SHELL STD. HI DENSITY SPECIAL
SIZE PINS PINS HI DENSITY
PINS
DA 15 26 ?
DB 25 44
DC 37 62
DD 50 78
DE 9 15 19
Regards,
WayneJ
James Waldby
>Karl Townsend wrote:
>>DoN wrote:
> ...
>>> Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
>>>you need.
>>DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
>>This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
>>buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
>>tool.
...
> DoN, I've been surfing for crimp tool and found this:
> http://www.dataaccessories.com/dsub.html
>
> The pins sure look like a molex type to me on the page. Anyway, I'll pop
> for $50 if this solves my little problem.
The T3002 D-Sub Crimp Tool (last item at that link) probably is what
DoN referred to as a "scissors type" crimp tool. IIRC, he suggested
it won't work well in comparison with Daniels or AMP crimpers when
they are used with correct pins. (Daniels are in several current
ebay auctions, eg 150511878340 and 190461084132.)
Anyhow, to the point. I have a crimp tool like T3002 and male and
female pins like are sold at the link, plus DB9 and DB25 shells for
same and have had bad luck with them. For example, loose wires in
crimp, pins not retained in shell, bent pins.
For the few cables and low pin-counts you've mentioned, try solder
cup connectors. Sacrifice half a dozen connectors for soldering
practice -- eg make up several short gender changers and jumpers or
test sets. Slide inch-long pieces of 1/10" heat shrink tubing onto
each wire before connecting it, and some 1/4" over all the wires,
also before connecting. See links below for details.
What gauge are the wires? How long is each of them? Do you
need to terminate the wires in place, or can you string a
pre-constructed cable? Do you know what kind of signal the
wires carry? (Eg, servo voltage or current, switch closures,
pulse train, serial RS232/422/488)
Links about soldering cable connectors -- containing both good
and bad advice --
<http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html>
<http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/xlr_cable.html>
<http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/367614-db25-soldering-tips.html>
<http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/sound-music-intercom/296-soldering-xlr.html>
--
jiw
Rich Grise
> DoN wrote:
>>>Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
>>>you need.
>>
>>This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
>>buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
>>tool.
>>
>>See my other response to your other post.
>
> http://www.dataaccessories.com/dsub.html
>
> The pins sure look like a molex type to me on the page. Anyway, I'll
> pop for $50 if this solves my little problem.
>
but they're about 1/2 to 1/3 the size. And all the Molex pins I've seen have
been tin-plated, while most D-sub pins I've seen are either brassy or gold
plated.
By this time, I'd have ordered some pins and shells (be sure you get the
right male/female combination) and squashed them with my needle-nose
pliers. ;-)
Cheers!
Rich
Tim Wescott
Not to mention that the last 1/8" or so of the pin body is supposed to
receive the insulation, for strain relief -- solder a wire straight into
the pin and it'll just break off right at the pin.
Tim Wescott
Heh -- I was unaware of the other option, most of the time that I've
spent in the presence of crimped connections has been at an aerospace
company.
Soldering is the way to go if you don't want to sign up for proper
tools. I think if I were doing the job all day, and had the right set
up, that I'd be faster crimping than soldering. But you need all those
special tools.
Dave B
Hell, send em to me you would have had em back by now.
LOL
db
Rich Grise
>
> Links about soldering cable connectors -- containing both good
> and bad advice --
> <http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html>
>
pictures:
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/614%20Solder%20Cups.html
And, to the original poster - it's really not that hard. There's nothing to
be afraid of - just keep your tip clean and tinned, and get a sponge sponge
if possible.
Go for it! It'll be fun!
Cheers!
Rich
Richard
Just solder them, Karl.
:)
Richard
I might add - solder tail connectors.
No pins to fiddle with.
http://parts.digikey.sg/1/1/572331-conn-db25-female-solder-cup-tin-172-025-202r001.html
Karl Townsend
Karl
Martin Eastburn
like tool boxes - but bigger - a hole 6' tall of various size of crimps.
If you solder - try not to get to much solder wicking up into the wire
as it will stiffen that point of entry and might make it hard to put on
the shell or become brittle of sorts - and crack there.
NASA and high tech companies use 'anti-skating' tools - a pliers with
a small split tube that is drilled out for the wire and also the
insulation. A perfect fit is made - clamp on - solder - the pliers or
clamp cools the wire and insulator (plastic) and prevents it from
wicking solder or making a nasty shaped / colored insulator plastic.
Normally low grade metal - e.g. pot metal - easy to drill and fit.
Martin
On 11/5/2010 1:47 PM, Tim Wescott wrote:
<snip>
Michael A. Terrell
We used AMP air powered crimping machines. They used more air than
anything else in the factory.
John
That is a good crimper but it has to be set up right to get a proper
crimp. Also the crimping pins in the tool must be in good shape or you
will get a poor crimp. Over crimping will cut the wires inside the pin
and they will break and cause problems. If the crimp is under crimped
the wire will pull out under moderate pull. The Daniels will crimp the
better pins with the barrel and inspection hole but will not crimp the
cheaper pins.
I always liked solder type connectors and with them I used silver
bearing solder because of its lower temp and more reliable flow into the
pin on the critical jobs I did. Silver bearing solder is not silver
solder which has a lot higher melting point. I always used Teflon
sleeves over the pins rather than heat shrink. Heat shrink tubing will
easily melt if it was accidentally hit with the soldering iron tip. On
a 100 pin high density connector it is not hard to do.
One other thing is that if you have only 4 pins in the connector I would
recommend putting several more dead pins into the connector to hold the
plug on the mating connector better, that is if the mating connector has
a full set of pins in it. With only four pins taking the strain they
will tend to get intermittent if exposed to any amount of vibration.
John
DoN. Nichols
> Most High tech companies crimped. We had massive heavy duty trays
> like tool boxes - but bigger - a hole 6' tall of various size of crimps.
>
> If you solder - try not to get to much solder wicking up into the wire
> as it will stiffen that point of entry and might make it hard to put on
> the shell or become brittle of sorts - and crack there.
Yes -- the anti-wicking tweezers prevent this and allow some
multi-stranded flex between the back of the connector and the start of
the insulation. That reduces (but does not eliminate) vibration induced
failure. (Individual heat-shrink sleeving over the back of solder-pot
pins and the insulation will help greatly.)
> NASA and high tech companies use 'anti-skating' tools - a pliers with
> a small split tube that is drilled out for the wire and also the
> insulation.
Anti-Wicking tweezers.
Vibration induced failure is a lot more expensive to fix if the
device is in space at the time of failure. :-)
> A perfect fit is made - clamp on - solder - the pliers or
> clamp cools the wire and insulator (plastic) and prevents it from
> wicking solder or making a nasty shaped / colored insulator plastic.
> Normally low grade metal - e.g. pot metal - easy to drill and fit.
The ones which I have mostly seen are tweezers with what looks
like a bullet shape between the tips. It splits in half, and has a
small hole at the small end to heat-sink the wire, and a larger hole
concentric with that in the rest of the "bullet" to support the
insulation, and to set a specific length of uninsulated wire after the
end of the insulation and before the solder.
I do have one pair which are not as elaborate -- a pair of plates
on the tips with just a wire diameter hole through the join. It
accomplishes the same task -- but does not support the insulation during
the soldering.
Enjoy,
DoN. Nichols
[ ... ]
>> AMP makes nice ones for individual wire crimp terminals, but the
>>size of the crimp is different from the Molex crimpers which I have
>>seen. There are very good crimpers from AMP for the purpose (go to eBay
>>for reasonable prices, or be sitting down for the new prices), and cheap
>>ones also from AMP which are not as good. (The good ones crimp double
>>flag pins -- one for the wire and another for supporting the insulation.
>>The cheap crimper crimps one set of flags at a time, and you then have
>>to flip it over to crimp the other half.
>>
>> If you're really interested in the good crimpers -- ask and I'll
>>look up the number on mine. It has a nest to hold the pin in the right
>>position for the crimping as well.
>>
>> Tycho is the current name for AMP connectors.
But most eBay auctions will be using the AMP name, because they
will be for crimpers made before the change. :-)
[ ... ]
>>> can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
>>
>> Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
>>you need.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>> DoN.
>
> DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
> This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
> buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
> tool.
O.K. It looks as though the one which I found on eBay for the
flag style terminals is the right one, based on checking the number on
mine.
It is a 90312-1, and IIRC was going for about $28.00 on eBay
last night. (A *very* good price for the tool.)
The crimp notch marked 28-24 is for the blue dot marked pins
(male and female) for the D series connectors.
The crimp notch marked 24-20 is for the red dot marked pins.
I rubbed blue and red paint into the stamped markings for the
sizes so I would remember which was which.
An example (with a Mouser part number) for one (female, 28-24 ga
wire -- blue dot) is 571-665059 for the female pins. This should get
you to the right page in the catalog to find the others. Digi-Key
number for the same pin is 800 344-5339. (I happen to have bags of pins
from both sources in the same bin in the hinged-lidded drawer.)
Sometimes I buy the pins from one or the other -- sometimes I
buy a bag full at a hamfest. Depends on luck. I like to keep quite a
few pins handy for emergency need.
The cheap one which crimps one set of flags at a time is
AMP(Tycho) part number 29004-1. That one you would probably get from
Mouser or DigiKey.
The fancy crimper (made by Daniels) for the machined terminals
has AMP's part number 601966-1, and Daniels' part number M22520/2-01
The bushing nest in it at the moment is marked M22520/2-08, but
IIRC, that was for a pin made by Canon, not AMP. It has a table on its
label which shows which setting for the black crimp depth dial should be
used for each different size of wire.
I've got a data sheet which shows which size of gauge pins to
use for checking each setting. (Just in case you wind up with one. The
auction last night was at about $55.00 IIRC -- not counting the
necessary bushing nest.
Sel # Go No-Go
======================
1 0.0130 0.0180
2 0.0160 0.0210
3 0.0190 0.0240
4 0.0220 0.0270
5 0.0260 0.0310
6 0.0300 0.0350
7 0.0340 0.0390
8 0.0390 0.0440
> See my other response to your other post.
Check the number in *my* other post from last night to make sure
that the number on the crimper was 90312-1. If so -- go for it. Then
e-mail me with questions about how the pins should be oriented when
crimping.
DoN. Nichols
They are smaller than the Molex pins -- so your existing crimper
won't do. But the one which I found on eBay last night (and just
confirmed by looking at my crimper tonight in the previous article) is
the right one.
Looks as though you can get the pins in as few as 100 per page
for $9.50.
You also want the T3001 insertion/extraction tool. The copper
colored end (red handle) is for insertion, the silver colored end (white
handle) is for extraction. It is split and will pass over the wire to
reach down and release the pin from the grip of the connector body.
I'm not sure about the T3002 crimp tool however. It looks
pretty cheap, but might do what you need. Hmm ... $42.50! Go for the
eBay one - it is much better, and only around $28.00 last night (well
under $29.00 at least). (I didn't bookmark the auction, so I'm not sure
whether the price is still valid.) Try for that first, at least.
I see the 9-pin, 15-pin, 25-pin, 37-pin and 50-pin (most
mis-named with "DB" at the beginning. This is correct only for the DB25
(the 'B' is for the size of the shell. "DA" is the 15-pin, "DB" is the
common 25-pin which caused all the confusion, "DC" is the 37-pin, "DD"
is the 50-pin, and "DE" is the 9-pin (it got named after the others had
been in production for a while, which is why it is out of sequence. :-)
The prices on the connectors look pretty good. (Actually *very*
good.)
You'll still want to get backshells for them of some flavor.
What flavor may depend on the style of wire you are feeding into it.
DoN. Nichols
> Thanks for the advice. I just bought this one:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=190461154029&si=i5%252FZWI4b8%252FpfgDPXS28baF1REUo%253D&viewitem=
(auction #190461154029)
That is unfortunate. That one requires:
1) The proper bushing nest (none shown in the photo, and I don't
know the proper one for the D series connector pins.
2) The machined pins (better quality, but significantly more
expensive, and *not* the kind in the web site which you posted a
link to and which I just answered.)
If you expect to use that crimper -- *don't* order those pins.
You'll have to find another source for the right pins.
For *those* pins -- you want the first crimper which I pointed to.
DoN. Nichols
>>And *this* one looks like the one for the flag type terminals for the D
>>series connectors (of which DB-25 is one size). It has two crimp dies,
>>and two support holes for two different gauges of wire. (One crimp
>>terminal is marked with a blue dot, the other with a red dot.
>>
>><http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=230527025153>
>>
>> Auction # 230527025153 for sure.
>>
>> If you really care -- ask me, and I'll verify whether this is
>>the right model by comparing it to what I have (after I dig them up).
>>(90312-1).
[ ... ]
> DAMN! Auction closed before I read your post. Yes, I'll buy the right
> tool. Would you help me find one on eBay, please.
Ouch! You missed a good price.
A quick search for "AMP 90312-1" (without the quote marks) finds
four at the moment. The second is at $29.99 while the other three are
at $49.99, $65.00, and $65.99.
The first one is missing the thing which holds the pins in the
right position.
The second one ( the lower price) is also missing the pin
holder. (You *can* hold them by hand, but it is easier with that to
hold the pin, one hand to cycle the crimper handles, and the other to
feed the wire in.)
The third one ($65.00) has the pin holder. (So did the one
which you missed.)
And the forth one ($65.99) has it as well.
Unfortunately, the auctions no longer seem to have auction numbers which
can be used for bringing up the auction without a long URL. :-(
Those are the four at present. I would suggest that you go for
one of the later two, as the pin holder will make it easier to use
without an assistant.
If you miss those -- use the search string which I showed up
there, and look for ones with a black plastic lump on the back side of
the crimp jaws.
And -- from another posting, it seems that you got the more
expensive Daniels connector -- which means that you need the proper
bushing nest and the proper pins. (You will need the machined pins
for that -- though they will fit in the same connector shells, except
perhaps for the 26-pin one which I'm not sure about. They probably have
pins to fit that too -- but perhaps a different bushing nest. The flag
type terminals are a lot more affordable.
> I bought from mouser, part 09 56 200 5601 as one example.
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/HARTING/09-56-200-5601/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu857ZbtCGHt%252bg0lJioweBEJJEPpKhSkeE%3d
>
> also 15 pin and 25 pin. Looks like they have a good selection and
> cheap pricing.
Hmm ... the 26-pin ones will use a different series of pins --
the smaller ones used in the VGA 15-pin connectors, except that this is
the shell size for the DA-15 connector (except for having three rows of
holes for smaller pins).
> DoN, Thanks for your offer to help, ahead of time. You are certainly
> the crimper expert on RCM.
There are certainly others -- I just spend more time typing what
I know. :-) I've been interested in crimpers since about 1965 when I
first learned about good ones.
Enjoy,
Karl Townsend
wrote:
>On 2010-11-06, Karl Townsend <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for the advice. I just bought this one:
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=190461154029&si=i5%252FZWI4b8%252FpfgDPXS28baF1REUo%253D&viewitem=
>
> (auction #190461154029)
>
>That is unfortunate. That one requires:
>
>1) The proper bushing nest (none shown in the photo, and I don't
> know the proper one for the D series connector pins.
>
>2) The machined pins (better quality, but significantly more
> expensive, and *not* the kind in the web site which you posted a
> link to and which I just answered.)
>
> If you expect to use that crimper -- *don't* order those pins.
>You'll have to find another source for the right pins.
>
> For *those* pins -- you want the first crimper which I pointed to.
>
> Good Luck,
> DoN.
DAMNIT!!!
I should have waited to hear from you. The school of hard knocks is a
good teacher 'cause you seldom forget the lesson.
I'll go back and try for the eBay auctions you suggested.
I "had" hoped to complete this little task quickly so I could test run
the servos. Not going to happen now.
Looking at your other posts, it looks like I still need to buy pins. I
thought the mouser offer had everything i needed for one connection -
wrong again.
OK, let me get the right crimper and see the mouser shipment. Then,
I'll double check with you on what else I need.
Thanks for all your excellent advice.
Karl
Karl Townsend
> The prices on the connectors look pretty good. (Actually *very*
>good.)
>
> You'll still want to get backshells for them of some flavor.
>What flavor may depend on the style of wire you are feeding into it.
>
> Good Luck,
> DoN.
Thanks DoN. Let me win a crimper auction and then see the mouser
parts. I'll confer with you BEFORE making another move.
Karl
Karl Townsend
NG.
Karl
Is it OK to go to email? I don't want to make another expensive
mistake.
I just bought this AMP 90312-1 crimp tool:
http://cgi.ebay.com/AMP-90312-1-Crimp-Tool-/300358064015?pt=BI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item45eebc578f
I have the below mouser parts on the way:
insert extraction tool 601-40-9865
25 pos crimp male 706-163X10039X
15P male crimp 617-09-56-100-5601
26P male crimp 617-09-56-200-5601
(I can send links for these, if needed)
OK, I need pins, right? I "think" I want mouser 571-1665069 on page
1334
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=571-1665060
Am I missing anything?
Karl
Wild_Bill
there is one of those Shack stores, and gotten enough sub-D parts (and
crimper, insert/extraction halfassed tools) for some of his connectors,
certainly enough for some tests.
Or.. even pre-assembled, insulated jumper leads,
Or.. bought pre-assembled sub-D cables from various sources, cut them in
half (two connecting cables from one) and spliced them in with wire nuts,
which require very little skill.
Instead of having someone solder for him, Karl should pay someone to teach
him how to solder properly, and then he would know something worthwhile that
will be of real use for himself in the future.
Folks with an "I can't learn" attitude deserve to fail.
I learned basic soldering in junior high school (sheetmetal and circuit
board), so attaining the skill of soldering isn't difficult.
Flame heated soldering coppers for sheetmetal.. not even as simple as using
a big several-hundred watt electric iron or a Weller soldering gun.
This present situation is what I was saying a couple of weeks ago.. several
users that post in RCM make the simplest tasks so GD dramatic.
They ask for help, then do some stupid shit that they guess is a solution,
so they look even more helpless/needy.. what a fuctup game.
And this fairly simple task hasn't even gotten started yet.
And in another week or so, they'll have another immediate CRISIS that they
just need a little help with.
He goes on to claim that he may learn from his mistakes.. signs of that
transformation don't seem to be present.
Karl.. find those spare backup motors yet?
This kind of electrical stuff isn't difficult unless you make it that way.
I recently gained the knowledge needed to properly fabricate some mil-spec
avionics connectors which I had no previous experience with, so I do know
what I'm talking about.
Some research time was involved, but time well spent, and expected.
--
WB
.........
"Karl Townsend" <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote in message
news:st6ad61eisflta6u5...@4ax.com...
Wild_Bill
connectors.
It turns out that the contacts' part numbers are the same as the contacts
used in some of the circular Amphenol, Bendix, Matrix etc connectors, such
as those utilized by aerospace avionics equipment.
Hand crimping can get old fast even with quality hand tools. Making a
fixture that can allow the hand crimper to be bench mounted would be a bit
easier, having only to swing one handle instead of repeatedly squeezing
handles together.
Also, having a surface to rest the "feed" hand on allow for easier placement
of the contact and the wire end.
I've worked in instrument assembly fabrication, and even with a foot
switch-actuated AMP terminating machine, it's fairly monotonous. I remember
the lighting fixture on that machine didn't help to see the termination area
behind a clear safety shield.
I'm quite sure that soldering the PT06 type circular connectors with their
fixed position, exposed solder cups is a lot easier than poking terminated
rear-loaded wires into empty connector bodies with environmental sealing.
An organized work area is paramount to frustration-free assembly of most any
multi-contact, miniature connector. The manufacturers' manuals may contain
the info regarding a secure holder for the connector, and logical direction
to install the wires.. but I found that very good lighting, a magnifier lamp
and an enlarged drawing with clearly marked hole designations makes assembly
fairly easy and very likely mistake-proof.
Having an adjustable holder or some other arrangement to support the wires
while having the prepped ends held near the connector is a major convenience
and prevents disruptions.
If I ever needed to do a lot of connector wiring, I have hot wire strippers,
resistance soldering and conventional soldering stations and a wide variety
of hand crimpers, but I'd prefer to solder wires to contacts whenever the
wire bundles have the neccessary support/strain relief to prevent vibration
fatigue.
Crimping generally has more significance when power connectors carry more
current.
--
WB
.........
"Tim Wescott" <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote in message
news:OLmdnY5ShLDMzEnR...@web-ster.com...
Karl Townsend
Karl
whit3rd
> >> I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
> >> something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
> >> tool.
>
> >> can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
>
> >Crimpers for those things need to be high quality, and the decent ones
> >cost $$$.
>
> I guess I'll find out. I plan to crimp them with whatever I can come
> up with and then solder before inserting. Total cost was under $20 so
> I'm not out much if it don't work. Plan "B" would be to hire the job
> out and get the solder type.
Crimping is VERY RELIABLE and soldering doesn't help (in fact,
the crimp terminals are too easy to solder; adding solder can easily
make them the wrong shape to fit). The crimp requirement, though,
is a good fitting crimp tool AND the exact stranded-wire size range.
Exactly what size IS the stranded wire you're using?
With a Molex crimp tool, you will want to use only Molex crimp pins,
and shells. It might take a magnifier to seat the pin in the crimper
correctly, and to get the wire in the hole just right...
Michael A. Terrell
whit3rd wrote:
>
> Crimping is VERY RELIABLE and soldering doesn't help (in fact,
> the crimp terminals are too easy to solder; adding solder can easily
> make them the wrong shape to fit).
People need to learn that you don't need a huge blob of solder. Take
a look at a surface mount IC to see just how little it takes. The big
problem is most people use cheap crap solder, and the wrong heat. Then
they cheap out even more and don't use a drop of mild RMA flux.
Joseph Gwinn
James Waldby <n...@no.no> wrote:
The classic solution to soldering connector pins in place, where access
to inner pins is difficult, is resistance soldering. The "iron" looks
like a big tweezer. Clamp the solder cup, press the foot switch, feed
the solder by hand. The tweezer passes a large current through the cup,
heating it. The tweezer itself does not get hot, so adjacent wires are
not melted.
Here is an example:
<http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7090010>.
Joe Gwinn
DoN. Nichols
> On 6 Nov 2010 05:41:15 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com>
> wrote:
>
>>On 2010-11-06, Karl Townsend <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>> Thanks for the advice. I just bought this one:
>>>
>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=190461154029&si=i5%252FZWI4b8%252FpfgDPXS28baF1REUo%253D&viewitem=
>>
>> (auction #190461154029)
>>
>>That is unfortunate. That one requires:
[ ... ]
>> If you expect to use that crimper -- *don't* order those pins.
>>You'll have to find another source for the right pins.
>>
>> For *those* pins -- you want the first crimper which I pointed to.
[ ... ]
> DAMNIT!!!
>
> I should have waited to hear from you. The school of hard knocks is a
> good teacher 'cause you seldom forget the lesson.
>
> I'll go back and try for the eBay auctions you suggested.
>
> I "had" hoped to complete this little task quickly so I could test run
> the servos. Not going to happen now.
>
> Looking at your other posts, it looks like I still need to buy pins. I
> thought the mouser offer had everything i needed for one connection -
> wrong again.
The crimp pins don't normally come with the connector because
there are two sizes of each type -- for different ranges of wire gauge.
IIRC, the one gauge which you can get away with with either is 24 ga, as
that is the overlap in the range.
And if you are smaller than 28 ga (the smallest that crimper
officially handles -- say 30 ga (which you may find in ribbon cables),
strip over twice the needed length. twisting the stripped insulation as
it comes off to bundle the strands tight, then fold it double prior to
crimping. That gets it large enough to fit the wire crimp -- though the
insulation crimp will be loose unless you slip some extra sleeving over
it prior to the crimp. A good approach when you don't have vibration to
deal with and want to get something wired up for a test -- though you
will probably want to go back and re-do it later with the right size
wire for the terminals.
> OK, let me get the right crimper and see the mouser shipment. Then,
> I'll double check with you on what else I need.
O.K. And send me e-mail to get quicker response. I read e-mail
when I get up, and as it arrives during the day. The newsgroups are
usually hit late in the day (say midnight or later -- it is currently
1:05 AM as I type this line.
Yes -- my e-mail address in the headers above and the .sig below
are munged -- but the first line of the .sig tells how to fix it.
Hopefully -- your e-mail server is not among those blocked for
spaming.
> Thanks for all your excellent advice.
You're welcome.
Good luck,
DoN. Nichols
> NG.
Email is acceptable -- and gets quicker response as explained in
what I just posted in another part of this thread. But I did not see it
yet -- did you un-mung my e-mail address? The instructions are in the
first line of my .sig at the bottom of every posting.
> Karl
>
>
>
> Is it OK to go to email? I don't want to make another expensive
> mistake.
>
> I just bought this AMP 90312-1 crimp tool:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/AMP-90312-1-Crimp-Tool-/300358064015?pt=BI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item45eebc578f
Good! That is the one you want -- and looks like one with the
pin support block too.
> I have the below mouser parts on the way:
>
> insert extraction tool 601-40-9865
> 25 pos crimp male 706-163X10039X
> 15P male crimp 617-09-56-100-5601
> 26P male crimp 617-09-56-200-5601
>
> (I can send links for these, if needed)
No need for those -- but I *think* that you need a different pin
for the 26P male connector -- it puts more pins in the same shell as the
15-pin standard sized one, so the pins are smaller. I'm not positive
that they can be crimped by the crimper in question.
> OK, I need pins, right? I "think" I want mouser 571-1665069 on page
> 1334
You mean 571-1665060 not ...69 -- right? The URL posted below
suggests so.
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=571-1665060
What wire gauge are you going to crimp these on? (Yes, it
matters, that's why there are two crimp locations in the crimper head,
one for the smaller ones (28-24 ga IIRC) and one for the larger ones
(24-20 ga). You can get away with either -- if your wire size is 24 ga.
I see that you have selected the larger size, so you must have wire
between 24 ga and 20 ga.
As shown, you see the crimp terminal with a bit of the ribbon
used to feed it through an automated crimp machine for someone working
with thousands of pins a day. You just stick in the stripped wire, and
it goes "ker-chunk" and you have a crimped pin. Some may even strip the
wire for you.
> Am I missing anything?
Mostly the second size pin needed for the 26-pin connectors.
Look at your computer's serial port connector pins, and compare them to
the pins on a VGA connector. You will see that the VGA connector has
smaller pins -- and they get fifteen in a 9-pin shell, just as you get
26 pins in a 15-pin shell for normal pin size.
I don't know for sure, but I think that the crimp tool will work
on the smaller pins. It is too late to check now -- almost bedtime.
Oh yes -- I may be slower tomorrow -- I'm running new wire for
the lathe power outlet and the compressor power outlet -- so I don't
have to run long extension cords the length of the shop. (Sort of
crazy, because where I need the outlets is within a few feet of the
breaker box -- but nobody installed outlets there -- let alone the 240
VAC one needed for the lathe. :-)
Good luck,
DoN. Nichols
Did you fix my e-mail address? The first line of my .sig says
(in case your e-mail client hides .sigs automatically):
======================================================================
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
======================================================================
I see lots of log entries rejecting connections from embarq, but
those are DHCP allocated addresses -- someone sending mail directly from
an isp account without going through their mail server. Those get
rejected because they are almost alway spam. People who should be
sending direct from their own system should have a static IP address.
Oh yes -- also beware of attachments. Anything over a certain
size (unlikely with plain text) will be automatically rejected.
Wild_Bill
compound-action, Sargent-style tool with a ratchet-cycle mechanism.
The BB FT012 that I have has 3 integrated crimper jaw sets, for 28-24, 24-20
and 18-16 gage wires.
--
WB
.........
"DoN. Nichols" <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
news:slrnid77op.m0...@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>
> And *this* one looks like the one for the flag type terminals for the D
> series connectors (of which DB-25 is one size). It has two crimp dies,
> and two support holes for two different gauges of wire. (One crimp
> terminal is marked with a blue dot, the other with a red dot.
>
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=230527025153>
>
> Auction # 230527025153 for sure.
>
> If you really care -- ask me, and I'll verify whether this is
> the right model by comparing it to what I have (after I dig them up).
> (90312-1).
>
> Good luck,