Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
Dave__67
the benefit of a similar effort by someone and improve the SNR at the
same time.
I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches
long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick,
along with steel sections threaded to take the screw.
Idea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that
can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar
to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like
the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked
out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole
puller).
If the threads are formed with an eye towards high axial load (my ball-
joint tool seems to have a pointed thread, maybe acme thread is good
too?) that will be a big benefit, of course.
I'm guessing Mcmaster may have the rod (maybe even hardened), but have
not seen a through-threaded section there in my travels. A big
threaded rod and coupler nut may do the trick, but hardened and with
proper thread type is my preference.
Thanks in advance-
Dave
Royston Vasey
"Dave__67" <spamT...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2bc089e9-49cf-44cc...@u21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
Try any industrial fastener or engineering supply place. I've made/used many
pullers using 3/4" & 1" threaded rod. No idea on the thread pitch other than
its resonably fine.....
Just grab a handful of nuts while you are there. Drill a thru hole and weld
a nut on to the stud plate. To drive the threaded shaft, thread a second nut
on the end and plug weld it in place.
Grease or oil if heavily loaded. I've drilled cross holes in some, often a
screw driver will provide enough drive to do the job or to allow rapid take
up / positioning.
Works for me on hubs / axles / brngs.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
44cc-a66f-6...@u21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:
> dea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that
> can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar
> to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like
> the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked
> out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole
> puller).
>
So, why not weld an inexpensive 3-prong-er to a brake disk?
LLoyd
Ignoramus9512
application. You will only use this puller a few dozen times, at most.
i
Jim Wilkins
> ...
> I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches
> long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick,
> Dave
See if a forged eye bolt would do:
http://www.jpbolts.co.uk/imgs/products/lrg/f_e_m6_m12.jpg
jsw
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:No2dndzrq8Ija1PW...@giganews.com:
> I do not think that you need hardened threaded rod for this
> application. You will only use this puller a few dozen times, at most.
It has more to do with distortion under high loads than with wear, Iggy.
I have a good puller I bought at retail for about $150. It has fully
hardened (and tempered) parts, and I slather them up with lube on every
use.
Still, at about 150ft.lb. on the screw, I can see wear on the threads --
mostly in the form of the oxide coating rubbing off, but a little (tiny)
amount of galling, too.
I figure if that hardened screw wore like that over a dozen uses, the
threads on an untreated screw would have just slid right off.
LLoyd
Dave__67
<lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:
> Dave__67 <spamTHIS...@yahoo.com> fired this volley in news:2bc089e9-49cf-
> 44cc-a66f-6d6ab6e7f...@u21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:
>
> > dea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that
> > can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar
> > to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like
> > the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked
> > out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole
> > puller).
>
> So, why not weld an inexpensive 3-prong-er to a brake disk?
>
> LLoyd
I've thought of doing so, or of making a load-spreading adapter, but
I've seen these be a real bastard to get loose, might be beyond the
capabilities of a low-cost one, and would take almost as much work to
ensure the load was really spread evenly.
Dave
Dave__67
> "Dave__67" <spamTHIS...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
This is my primary fallback, would prefer hardened.
Dave
Dave__67
That might be a good way to go, already has a big hole for my prybar
to turn it.
Dave
spaco
http://www.greenbaymfgco.com/catalog.php
Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------------
Jim Wilkins
> > http://www.jpbolts.co.uk/imgs/products/lrg/f_e_m6_m12.jpg
> > jsw
>
> That might be a good way to go, already has a big hole for my prybar
> to turn it.
>
> Dave
The problem with them is knowing which ones are higher strength steel,
they aren't always marked like bolts.
I got a few good used ones from a power company lineman.
jsw
Wayne Cook
If he'll go to McMaster Carr then he can get grade b-7 threaded rod
which is as good or better than a grade 8 bolt.
Dave__67
> On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 20:49:05 +0800, "Royston Vasey"
>
>
>
>
> >"Dave__67" <spamTHIS...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
If he wanted to pay 30 bucks for it...
Dave
JR North
around.
JR
Dweller in the cellar
--
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If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
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"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."
Dave__67
In this case (did not mention front- and all-wheel-drive) the hub must
be gripped and the axle pushed through the hub.
Theoretically one could pull the hub off the axle and out of the
bearings, but you'd be banging the axle end against the spindle/
bearing housing and/or pulling the internal axle bits against their
retaining C-clips, which may go first.
Dave
JR North
The later ones, you just use an air hammer with a blunt nose driver.
Take off the tie rod, separate the lower ball joint, Hold the rotor, and
drive it out.
Larry Jaques
<junkjas...@bigfoot.com> scrawled the following:
>Oh, OK. Subaru used pressed-in hub/rotor assy only through '88 or so.
>The later ones, you just use an air hammer with a blunt nose driver.
>Take off the tie rod, separate the lower ball joint, Hold the rotor, and
>drive it out.
If you're reusing the axle bearing, be gentle with the drive-out.
If not, don't worry. Instead of a blunt nosed driver, since most of
their axles had dimples in the end of the shaft, I used a pointed
driver. The 20" punch worked well, allowing me to hold the hammer in
my gut, for leverage, and the rotor with my free hand.
I did mostly Hodnas, Toyonkas, and Dachsunds.
--
"I think you very well may see a revolution in this country and
it will not be a revolution to overthrow the government," he said.
"It would be a revolution to restore government to its constitutional
basis." --Rob Weaver on VoA, 4/19/10
JR North
JR
--
Bob Engelhardt
> Here's a company that specializes in such things:
>
> http://www.greenbaymfgco.com/catalog.php
Went to "Threaded Rods": 1/4-20 is $1.90/ft, but 10-32 is _$16.90_ a
foot!!??! WTF? 9 times as much?
Bob
Dave__67
Exactly...
Dave
DoN. Nichols
Are you reading that right?
What I see at $16.90 is labeled ".10-24" or 1/10"-24, based on
the ".25-20" being 1/4"-20
And later on I see ".10-32" (1/10" 32) at $15.11
These are almost certainly rolled threads, and it may be more
difficult to roll clean threads at that small a diameter.
I do see one about 3/4 of the way down the page which is clearly
labeled "10-32" and is 304 SS, not the chrome molly steel of the earlier
ones. If it were not for seeing this, I would think that the ".10-24"
and ".10-32" were entered by someone who does not understand screw
sizing. But ".25-28" is clearly 1/4-28.
I think that if you are that interested, you should call them
and talk to someone who can be clear about the sizes. :-)
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Larry Jaques
<junkjas...@bigfoot.com> scrawled the following:
>You did a Dachsund? Compliant, but a little small for you, eh?
>JR
(topposting corrected by snipping text underneath)
My motto: Tight is Right. <wink>
--
...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should
not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin
Bob Engelhardt
> On 2010-04-22, Bob Engelhardt <bobeng...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> spaco wrote:
>>> Here's a company that specializes in such things:
>>>
>>> http://www.greenbaymfgco.com/catalog.php
>> Went to "Threaded Rods": 1/4-20 is $1.90/ft, but 10-32 is _$16.90_ a
>> foot!!??! WTF? 9 times as much?
>
> Are you reading that right?
>
> What I see at $16.90 is labeled ".10-24" or 1/10"-24, based on
> the ".25-20" being 1/4"-20
Oops - you're right. It is quite clearly .10 - they are all decimal'ly
sized. Having never seen a .10-32 size, my subconscious was sure that
it was 10-32 and my conscious went along <G>. Being such a unusual size
does explain some of the cost difference, but still ...
> ...
> I think that if you are that interested, you should call them
> and talk to someone who can be clear about the sizes. :-)
Well, I have to admit that the web page is pretty clear, if you're
willing to read what's actually there <G>.
Thanks,
Bob
BTW - your reply is a good example of what sets RCM apart from the
riffraff of Usenet. You replied "Are you reading that right?", when I
clearly was NOT reading it right. On so many NG's it would have been
"You dumb fuck, READ the fucking listing, it says _.10_. Get it? POINT 10."
DoN. Nichols
> DoN. Nichols wrote:
[ ... ]
>> Are you reading that right?
>>
>> What I see at $16.90 is labeled ".10-24" or 1/10"-24, based on
>> the ".25-20" being 1/4"-20
>
> Oops - you're right. It is quite clearly .10 - they are all decimal'ly
> sized. Having never seen a .10-32 size, my subconscious was sure that
> it was 10-32 and my conscious went along <G>. Being such a unusual size
> does explain some of the cost difference, but still ...
But it is such an *uncommon* size -- especially with 24 or 32
TPI that I tend to not believe it. I am more likely to believe that
whoever wrote the web page did not really understand thread sizes, and
especially the difference between number sizes and fractional inch
sizes.
>> ...
>> I think that if you are that interested, you should call them
>> and talk to someone who can be clear about the sizes. :-)
>
> Well, I have to admit that the web page is pretty clear, if you're
> willing to read what's actually there <G>.
It is clear -- but hard to believe. That is why I suggest that
you talk to someone there who can explain what is *really* meant.
(Maybe it will prompt them to fix the web page. How many people do a
search for a 1.250x8 thread instead of a 1-1/4x8? It probably loses
them a lot of potential customers.
> Thanks,
> Bob
>
> BTW - your reply is a good example of what sets RCM apart from the
> riffraff of Usenet. You replied "Are you reading that right?", when I
> clearly was NOT reading it right. On so many NG's it would have been
> "You dumb fuck, READ the fucking listing, it says _.10_. Get it? POINT 10."
I see no point in insulting anyone. Errors like that are easy
enough to make -- and if the font size on the browser is small enough,
you might not even *see* the '.' before the number. (I tend to run my
browser at 150% magnification most of the time, and use a fairly large
monitor as well.
I'm sure that I've made enough similar mistakes in my life --
and it is not yet over, even. (I hope :-)
Jim Wilkins
> ...
> Oops - you're right. It is quite clearly .10 - they are all decimal'ly
> sized. Having never seen a .10-32 size, my subconscious was sure that
> it was 10-32 and my conscious went along <G>. Being such a unusual size
> does explain some of the cost difference, but still ...
A .10 - 24 thread fails the sanity check that long experience has
taught me to apply.
Numbered screw threads are given as decimal sizes on mil-spec
drawings, 0.190-32 for #10-32 for example. But 0.10" is #3, the
standard threads are 48 and 56 tpi. A standard 24 tpi thread form
would cut away over half the diameter. You think #6-32 is weak?
jsw