electrical prints cummins engine
Karl Townsend
I'm looking to re-wire a Cummins 8.3 C diesel industrial engine. There's
not a whole lot there but it would help to have an engine electrical
drawing. Anybody have one by chance?
Otherwise, I do plan to cut the harness apart and chase each wire point A to
point B.
Karl
Ignoramus27020
> 25 years in a salt water bilge is not good for engine electrical wiring...
>
> I'm looking to re-wire a Cummins 8.3 C diesel industrial engine. There's
> not a whole lot there but it would help to have an engine electrical
> drawing. Anybody have one by chance?
Cummins Npower, LLC 7145 Santa Fe Drive Hodgkins, IL 60525 Phone:
(708) 579-9222, Lee
Buerste
"Karl Townsend" <karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote in message
news:4b7d685d$0$65829$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
Are you doing this because you are bored or is there something wrong with
it?
Karl Townsend
> Are you doing this because you are bored or is there something wrong with
> it?
A few wires totally fried. Lucky it didn't start a fire. Had to be towed in
off the reef. Some really smart guy slugged the fusible link. Several spots
have had a mash together "Y" connection added and then cut out. The rest of
the wire is brittle, bend it and the insulation cracks. All the connections
are totally salt corroded. The guy that owned the boat before just bypassed
things as they failed so there may be stuff I don't know about.
But yea I guess I'm bored. When its too windy to fish, what is a guy
supposed to do?
Karl
Buerste
Just kidding, I assumed it had "issues" but that's quite a job lined up.
GFL!
Gerald Miller
Sounds like the power window/door lock harness in the '83 Dodge Aries
we had. The harness was routed across the floor pan just ahead of the
seat bulkhead in the lowest part under the drivers feet, all joints
were spot welded and loosely wrapped with fabric tape. I had to
rebuild the entire harness and by the time I got done talking to the
"customer service ombudsman" he wouldn't even admit to having ever
learned to ride a bicycle, let alone drive a car.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Bruce L. Bergman
<karltown...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Trace it out and rework using proper methods. It should be
drop-dead simple on a diesel - there's a solenoid for fuel cut-off at
the injector pump,starter circuit, charging circuit and battery feed
line, tachometer pickup, oil pressure, water temperature... And that
should be about it.
There's more wiring in the boat than on the engine, with the bow and
stern lights, bilge blowers, bilge pumps, interior lights, radar,
marine radios, AM/FM radios, live-well...
Trust me, I tried tracking down a wiring diagram for a 1962 Dodge Dart
one time, and every one I could find was wrong one way or another.
Just hauled out the old one, made up a quickie breadboard on a full
sheet of plywood, then dissected the harness and loomed & wrapped a
new one on the breadboard out of THHN/MTW Stranded, none of this
"Primary Wire" crap. And be generous on the wire gauge - smallest was
18-ga, mostly 14-Ga.
Then gave it an overwrap of the split plastic loom to make sure it
never rubbed through on an edge.
And I threw out the factory five-fuse joke panel and added in a big
fuseblock to protect everything on it's own - none of this "One fuse
protects six different things." Except for the designed-in things
like the dashboard lights on the tail-light fuse, so you know when the
tail light fuse is blown.
None of the buried splices inside the harness crap. Brought the
splices out in the open at a device end, so they could be found later.
Don't terminate the wires till after it's in place and strapped
down, so you don't have to deal with it being an inch too short. And
leave a little extra slack where you need it.
The friend sold it to a restorer, with any luck it's still running
today.
--<< Bruce >>--