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Cordless Tool Battery Charging Question

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Doug White

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Feb 20, 2010, 9:12:43 AM2/20/10
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My wife & I each have coldless drills, which we use intermitently for
household repairs & projects. The only way to make sure we have a charged
battery handy for emergencies is to leave one in the chargers. Even though
these are reasonably high quality chargers (Ryobi & DeWalt), I'm sure we
are shortening the life of the batteries.

It occured to me that one option might be to put the chargers on a timer,
so that they are on for half an hour a day. That should top them off,
without cooking them. The catch is that I'm not sure what sort of load the
charger presents when it is off. I could just end up discharging the
battery through (at a minimum) diode leakage. As long as the leakage is
low, that might actually be OK, or it could produce a nasty memory effect
in the NiCd's.

Any thoughts or comments?

Thanks!

Doug White

Snag

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Feb 20, 2010, 9:38:36 AM2/20/10
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The DeWalt chargers I've used automatically go to a float or maintain
charge state when the battery is fully charged , and I suspect most others
do too . I found that completely discharging NiCad batteries between
chargings was the best way to prevent a less-than-full-charge memory
situation .
I've had DeWalt batteries last up to 5 years while coworkers that
recharged as soon as the drill slowed usually got less than a year ...
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF


ian field

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Feb 20, 2010, 10:05:19 AM2/20/10
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"Doug White" <gwh...@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9D255DB39C1A7...@69.16.186.7...

I'd go with running them flat before storing them - they seem to whisker
(and go short circuit) if you leave them to the notorious self-discharge.

In the black & Decker drills, 1 or more shorted cells burns out the current
limiting resistor in the charger.


mac

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Feb 20, 2010, 11:45:36 AM2/20/10
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On Feb 20, 10:05 am, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:
> limiting resistor in the charger.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The instructions for my Black and Decker 24 volts lawnmower advise to
leave the charger plugged in when the mower is not in used. I leave it
in all winter also.

Doug White

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Feb 20, 2010, 12:56:31 PM2/20/10
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"Snag" <snag...@comcast.net> wrote in
news:LtSfn.2875$Ee1....@newsfe12.iad:

The battery in my DeWalt charger stays noticeably warm, so _something_ is
going on, even when it fully charged. The charger is about 5 or 6 years
old, so maybe the newer ones are better.

There also seems to be a lot of disagreement about discharge levels. If
you only discharge it a little, you can get memory issues, but if you
discharge it too much, you can end up reverse charging a cell, which
definitely wrecks the battery.

Doug White

Doug White

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Feb 20, 2010, 12:57:39 PM2/20/10
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mac <billc...@billcotton.com> wrote in
news:84266e61-6501-498d...@b10g2000vbh.googlegroups.com:

I thought most of the mowers wre lead acid, but I'm not sure.

Doug White

mac

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Feb 20, 2010, 1:54:58 PM2/20/10
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On Feb 20, 12:57 pm, Doug White <gwh...@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
> Doug White- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

You are correct, That does make a different. I haven't open this one
but my older one was open and it is a sealed acid battery

Bruce L. Bergman

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Feb 20, 2010, 3:13:58 PM2/20/10
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On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 14:12:43 GMT, Doug White <gwh...@alum.mit.edu>
wrote:

Read The Friendly Manual for the tool.

The daily hour works for some things, the ones that use a fixed rate
trickle charge at all times, and then it tapers off to a maintenance
charge at full voltage. I use it for a lot of my small tools that I
never know when I'll need it in a hurry, like the combustible gas
detector.

But the high rate chargers for tool batteries, probably not such a
good idea - they try to do a full fast-charge cycle that is current
limited (note that the battery gets hot, they sense that as to when
they're "cooked") and only switch full-off or to trickle after that.

You'll be forcing a full charge on an almost-full battery every day
with the daily timer setup.

If it switches to trickle automatically, LEAVE IT PLUGGED IN. The
cost of the power for a "vampire load" of the trickle charge is far
less than the cost of a new battery pack - killed by cooking the
battery with an unnecessary charge cycle every day. Mine are $90
each. (Dewalt 18V XLR)

I need to set up a second plugstrip with a Skipper-Dial timer to
charge things like that without a trickle function, so it only comes
on once a week.

--<< Bruce >>--

cavelamb

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Feb 20, 2010, 4:02:48 PM2/20/10
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I have 12v and 9.6v Ryobi drills.
The instructions say to avoid over charging.
But the charger doesn't indicate anything but On and Dead Cell.
Leaving the battery in the charger will kill it rapidly.

The Timer idea might work.
I've thought to try it myself, but haven't yet.


--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/

ian field

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Feb 20, 2010, 4:07:27 PM2/20/10
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"mac" <billc...@billcotton.com> wrote in message
news:d6d86e82-344f-48a3...@z39g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...

You'd probably be better off taking the SLA battery out and leaving it on an
Optimate over winter, if it's 6V Honda do a similar charger with switchable
voltage.


ian field

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Feb 20, 2010, 4:13:54 PM2/20/10
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"Bruce L. Bergman" <bruceNOSP...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:svf0o55vc06ue122j...@4ax.com...

The best scheme I've found for long term float charging is temperature
controlled.

Set the limit no higher than 40C.


Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

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Feb 20, 2010, 7:10:17 PM2/20/10
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Doug White <gwh...@alum.mit.edu> fired this volley in
news:Xns9D255DB39C1A7...@69.16.186.7:

> It occured to me that one option might be to put the chargers on a
> timer, so that they are on for half an hour a day. That should top
> them off,
>

Check out what Bruce Bergman said below. He's right. I know for a fact
- because I own both a Ryobi and a Dewalt set - that the chargers will
not overcharge or "dry out" a battery if left on charge. The DeWalt I
have switches to a trickle when the thermostat in the battery kicks out.
The Ryobi just turns off; and I've never seen it turn back on except
during a power failure/restore situation. The worst thing you can do is
re-charge an almost-full battery over and over. You'll just evaporate
the electrolyte eventually, because they only stop charging after a
certain temperature (determined by a thermostat IN the battery) is
reached, declaring them fully charged. (BTW... that's why there are three
terminals on the batteries instead of two. A "smart" peak-charger
wouldn't need that third "thermostat" link.)

LLoyd

Doug White

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Feb 20, 2010, 8:19:28 PM2/20/10
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"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote in
news:Xns9D25C307A95DCll...@216.168.3.70:

Both the Ryobi & the Dewalt _I_ have keep the batteries warm. Both units
never turn off. If they are trickle charging the batteries, they are
doing it at a current level high enough to raise the battery temperature
considerably above ambient.

These may be older or cheaper chargers than what you have. I'll have to
double check the manuals, but I believe both tell you not to leave the
batteries in the charger. That's fine as long as you use the tool often
enough that the batteries don't self discharge. That is often not the
case for us.

Doug White

Wild_Bill

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Feb 20, 2010, 9:50:25 PM2/20/10
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Generally, as long as the battery pack doesn't get hot, the charger probably
isn't causing any damage to the cells.

When the charge is completed, if the battery pack was warm, it should cool
down to ambient after it's been on a trickle charge rate/cycle for a while.
If the battery remains much warmer than ambient while trickle charging (an
hour after a full charging cycle), the trickle current is probably a bit
excessive. Trouble is, ya can't do much about it, as far as modifying most
sophisticated chargers.

The trickle charge level only needs to be high enough to cancel/eliminate
the self-discharge rate of the cells (both NICAD and NIMH), although some
new NIMH cells claim to have zero or very low self-discharge rates.

See the Maintenance Charge section
http://www.ka7oei.com/nicds.html

There are many different grades of high quality cells, and some are designed
to withstand a constant, but reduced charging current, rapid charging and/or
rapid discharging. Trouble is, ya don't know for sure which grade of cells
are in a battery pack unless you selected and installed them yourself from a
quality manufacurer such as Panasonic or Sanyo.
Some high quality cells can cost over $24 per cell (1.2V per cell x 10 cells
for a 12V pack), so you can understand why so many folks experience
rechargeable battery problems.

Poorly designed chargers and low grade cells result in short battery pack
lifetimes, even if the batteries are neglected and/or abused.
Trouble is, when most cells get weak, there isn't any way to rejuvenate
them, so replacement is the only practical option to fully restore the
battery pack's capacity.
Since many new battery packs cost almost as much as a brand new tool with
new batteries, landfills continue to fill up with discarded tools, and
groundwater-contaminating/poisoning battery packs.
Some chemistries of battery packs, such as cell phone and laptop batteries
can be restored with the proper, really expensive equipment (Cadex).

Most consumers don't have any way to gauge the condition of their battery
packs. Most battery tester/checkers with a meter, or a few LEDs don't show
the condition of the internal cells. Batteries that test good on these types
of testers can go dead in a matter of seconds.

Some chargers made for the Remote Control hobby users are somewhat
sophisticated, in being able to show mAh capacity during a controlled
discharge. Some models allow the user to select charging rates, etc. I have
one model that does these functions, the MRC Super Brain 977.
There are more advanced analyzers that connect to a PC and plot charging and
discharging rates.

Rebuilding battery packs isn't complicated for handy-type users with
soldering skills, if they're willing to buy good cells with tabs, to avoid
soldering directly to the cell terminals. There are usually several nearby
places where bad cells can be dropped off, so they can be recycled or
disposed of properly (incinerated?).

Many universal chargers switch from the charge rate, to a trickle rate when
a delta/volt level is sensed, so many models can be used for NICAD or NIMH.

There is always the possibility that battery packs can be overcharged or
undercharged, and most users won't know.

--
WB
.........


"Doug White" <gwh...@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9D255DB39C1A7...@69.16.186.7...

cavelamb

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Feb 21, 2010, 12:41:51 AM2/21/10
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Wild_Bill wrote:
>
> Rebuilding battery packs isn't complicated for handy-type users with
> soldering skills, if they're willing to buy good cells with tabs, to
> avoid soldering directly to the cell terminals. There are usually
> several nearby places where bad cells can be dropped off, so they can be
> recycled or disposed of properly (incinerated?).
>
> Many universal chargers switch from the charge rate, to a trickle rate
> when a delta/volt level is sensed, so many models can be used for NICAD
> or NIMH.
>
> There is always the possibility that battery packs can be overcharged or
> undercharged, and most users won't know.
>


I had my 9.6 volt packs rebuilt by Interstate batteries.
They did it while I watched and the price was quite reasonable.

But the charger is still the brute simple Ryobi thing.
HAVE to watch the times.

Michael Koblic

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Feb 23, 2010, 8:59:16 PM2/23/10
to

"Bruce L. Bergman" <bruceNOSP...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:svf0o55vc06ue122j...@4ax.com...
>>
> Read The Friendly Manual for the tool.
>
> The daily hour works for some things, the ones that use a fixed rate
> trickle charge at all times, and then it tapers off to a maintenance
> charge at full voltage. I use it for a lot of my small tools that I
> never know when I'll need it in a hurry, like the combustible gas
> detector.
>
> But the high rate chargers for tool batteries, probably not such a
> good idea - they try to do a full fast-charge cycle that is current
> limited (note that the battery gets hot, they sense that as to when
> they're "cooked") and only switch full-off or to trickle after that.
>
> You'll be forcing a full charge on an almost-full battery every day
> with the daily timer setup.
>
> If it switches to trickle automatically, LEAVE IT PLUGGED IN. The
> cost of the power for a "vampire load" of the trickle charge is far
> less than the cost of a new battery pack - killed by cooking the
> battery with an unnecessary charge cycle every day. Mine are $90
> each. (Dewalt 18V XLR)
>
<snip>

Reading this thread I though I should look at my two chargers. I used the
Kill-a-watt to measure current (yes, I know it is on the "wrong" side) and a
IR thermometer to measure the battery housing temp. Here are the results. I
hope the table posts OK.

Hitachi NiCd 14.4V (EB1414S) - 4 years old. Pretty much useless due to high
rate of self discharge which developed about 6 months after purchase. Can be
used if charged just before the job:

Charger Current Temp Ambient temp

No battery 0.05A

Start 0.71A

15min 0.81A

fullcharge 0.06A 36C 12C

1h50min 0.07A 29C

3h15min 0.07A 22C

7h05min 0.06A 19C

19h21min 0.07A 19C 9C

21h14min 0.07A 18C 10C


Mastercraft NiCd 18V 54-3064-2 - 4years old. Both batteries still going
strong

No battery 0.03A 11C 9C

start 0.16A

1hr 0.1A 13C 13C

1h40min
(full charge) 0.04A 19C 13C

2h53min 0.04A 14C 13C

4h53min 0.04A 15C 14C

disconnect 0.03A

Clearly there are many limitations to these observations but the trend would
suggest that the Hitachi fast charger cooked the batteries - the battery
never reached the ambient temperature while still in the charger. Note that
I never left the batteries in the charger, stored them discharged and in the
coldest room in the house.

It also suggests that the cheaper technology is not always inferior. One
thing to look at when buying IMHO is to look at the battery warranty. The
Hitachis were only 90 days! With good reason! Some companies now offer 10
year and even "life-time" warranties, presumably if used with their (more
intelligent) chargers.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

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