Eklind hexagon keys
Christopher Tidy
Anyone own a set of Eklind hexagon keys? If so, what do you think of
their accuracy and durability? I notice they're made in Illinois, pretty
close to Igor I think.
I want a set of hexagon keys that are long arm and come in a box or
sturdy holder, not on a keyring (I hate those rings). I've got a set by
CK, which are fine in terms of quality, but the ring connections broke
and it was awkward anyway. Eklind offer a set in a plastic holder.
That's not quite ideal, as I'd prefer a metal box, so if anyone knows of
a better brand available in Europe, I'd be interested to hear.
Many thanks,
Chris
Christopher Tidy
Chris
Ned Simmons
<cdt22...@cantabgold.net> wrote:
>That's not quite ideal, as I'd prefer a metal box, so if anyone knows of
>a better brand available in Europe, I'd be interested to hear.
Bondhus, bar none.
http://www.cromwell.co.uk/BON6026121L
--
Ned Simmons
axolotl
> Hi folks,
>
> Anyone own a set of Eklind hexagon keys? If so, what do you think of
> their accuracy and durability? I notice they're made in Illinois, pretty
> close to Igor I think.
>
I have hex keys by Unbrako, Allen, and Eklind. They are all good.
My Eklind milling head (made in Chicago) is about 70 years old and still
making chips. One would expect hex keys to last as long.
Kevin Gallimore
steamer
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:4BA17892...@cantabgold.net:
> Anyone own a set of Eklind hexagon keys? If so, what do you think of
> their accuracy and durability? I notice they're made in Illinois, pretty
> close to Igor I think.
>
I have several sets in both short and long, inch and metric, straight and
ball-tip. I think they're the best.
LLoyd
Ignoramus15323
They are all fine and are probably made using the same method.
i
James Waldby
> Anyone own a set of Eklind hexagon keys? If so, what do you think of
> their accuracy and durability? I notice they're made in Illinois, pretty
> close to Igor I think.
>
> I want a set of hexagon keys that are long arm and come in a box or
> sturdy holder, not on a keyring (I hate those rings). [...]
Although one can use a hex key (Allen wrench) while it's attached
to a ring, it only takes a moment to remove the key from the ring,
for more-convenient use.
Pull on the key while turning it as if unwinding the spring that
holds it, and it will come right off. To put it back on the ring,
push on it while turning the same direction.
--
jiw
Christopher Tidy
Do Bondhus make keys without the ball end? I don't like ball end keys
myself.
Chris
Christopher Tidy
Thanks, Lloyd and Kevin. That's what I wanted to know. I'd just not
heard of the brand before (guess it isn't exported too much).
Do the Eklind keys have the sizes stamped on them (at least the larger
keys)? I find that a useful feature.
Chris
Christopher Tidy
> Although one can use a hex key (Allen wrench) while it's attached
> to a ring, it only takes a moment to remove the key from the ring,
> for more-convenient use.
>
> Pull on the key while turning it as if unwinding the spring that
> holds it, and it will come right off. To put it back on the ring,
> push on it while turning the same direction.
I used to do this, but found that after I'd removed and replaced the
keys I use most often a few times, the spring connection to the ring
broke. The spring which fits around the key is pretty tight on the CK sets.
Chris
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
> Do the Eklind keys have the sizes stamped on them (at least the larger
> keys)? I find that a useful feature.
>
> Chris
Yes they do, Chris.
LLoyd
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
> The spring which fits around the key is pretty tight on the CK sets.
Chris, if you turn it the right way, it doesn't matter how tight it is. It
works just like a coil-spring one-way clutch. Turns hard or not at all one
way, and easy as goose grease the other.
LLoyd
Christopher Tidy
I'll try again, but I couldn't get it to work satisfactorily with this
set. Having set that, I do remember using another set where the keys
could be removed easily.
Thanks for the advice. I think I'll buy the Eklind set.
Best wishes,
Chris
Wes
>> Pull on the key while turning it as if unwinding the spring that
>> holds it, and it will come right off. To put it back on the ring,
>> push on it while turning the same direction.
>
>I used to do this, but found that after I'd removed and replaced the
>keys I use most often a few times, the spring connection to the ring
>broke. The spring which fits around the key is pretty tight on the CK sets.
The plastic caddies tend to get loose also. Kinda anoying to get to where you are going
to work carrying the things and find you lost a key on the way. DAMHIKT!
Wes
--
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government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Christopher Tidy
> Christopher Tidy <cdt22...@cantabgold.net> wrote:
>
>
>>>Pull on the key while turning it as if unwinding the spring that
>>>holds it, and it will come right off. To put it back on the ring,
>>>push on it while turning the same direction.
>>
>>I used to do this, but found that after I'd removed and replaced the
>>keys I use most often a few times, the spring connection to the ring
>>broke. The spring which fits around the key is pretty tight on the CK sets.
>
>
> The plastic caddies tend to get loose also. Kinda anoying to get to where you are going
> to work carrying the things and find you lost a key on the way. DAMHIKT!
I know. It sounds like the Eklind caddies have O-rings inside to grip
the keys, but they'll still fail with time.
Ideally I want a set like these (see link below), but imperial sizes,
not metric. Anyone know of a source?
http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Hex%20Key%20Sets&product=1884
Many thanks,
Chris
Ned Simmons
<cdt22...@cantabgold.net> wrote:
>Ned Simmons wrote:
>> On Thu, 18 Mar 2010 00:49:22 +0000, Christopher Tidy
>> <cdt22...@cantabgold.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>That's not quite ideal, as I'd prefer a metal box, so if anyone knows of
>>>a better brand available in Europe, I'd be interested to hear.
>>
>>
>> Bondhus, bar none.
>> http://www.cromwell.co.uk/BON6026121L
>
>Do Bondhus make keys without the ball end? I don't like ball end keys
>myself.
Yes, they do.
--
Ned Simmons
Gunner Asch
<cdt22...@cantabgold.net> wrote:
you mean "allen" wrenches?
Ecllind, Allen, Bondhus are the most common ones here in the US, with my
personal choice going first for Bondhus, then Allen, then Ecklind, but
only because Ive used far more Bondhus than Eclind. They are ALL 3,
excellent "wrenches"
Gunner, who only buys "ball end"..as they will over a number of years,
often convert themselves to standard end...particularly after
application of a snipe.
"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.
This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost
Gunner Asch
>Christopher Tidy <cdt22...@cantabgold.net> wrote:
>
>>> Pull on the key while turning it as if unwinding the spring that
>>> holds it, and it will come right off. To put it back on the ring,
>>> push on it while turning the same direction.
>>
>>I used to do this, but found that after I'd removed and replaced the
>>keys I use most often a few times, the spring connection to the ring
>>broke. The spring which fits around the key is pretty tight on the CK sets.
>
>The plastic caddies tend to get loose also. Kinda anoying to get to where you are going
>to work carrying the things and find you lost a key on the way. DAMHIKT!
>
>Wes
When your storebought holder finally loosens up..go to any good Tool
store and pick up those coin shaped yellow holders..about 2" in diameter
with a small spring that goes all the way around it. Get em in Metric
and Standard. Bout $3.50 each,
Cant remember the name at the moment, but thats all I use on the job.
Works great, tough, handy and keeps the wrenches in place just fine.
Someone help with the name and a link? Or do I have to go out to the
truck?
Gunner
Ned Simmons
wrote:
>
>Ecllind, Allen, Bondhus are the most common ones here in the US, with my
>personal choice going first for Bondhus, then Allen, then Ecklind, but
>only because Ive used far more Bondhus than Eclind. They are ALL 3,
>excellent "wrenches"
>
>Gunner, who only buys "ball end"..as they will over a number of years,
>often convert themselves to standard end...particularly after
>application of a snipe.
And you need both anyway, as well as a set with the short arm cut off
just beyond the bend. The Bondhus wrenches have a tighter bend than
the other brands, which means you can cut them shorter. And the uncut
wrenches will reach deeper into a counterbore before the bend
interferes.
--
Ned Simmons
Wes
>And you need both anyway, as well as a set with the short arm cut off
>just beyond the bend. The Bondhus wrenches have a tighter bend than
>the other brands, which means you can cut them shorter. And the uncut
>wrenches will reach deeper into a counterbore before the bend
>interferes.
I've replaced a lot of bits in hex sockets with cut up chunks of Bondhus hex keys, the
Bondhus replacements last far longer. When they do fail, they tend to fail lengthwise.
They never round off though like the bits I replaced.
The application is assembly cells using electric drive screw guns with torque
control/monitoring.
Wes
Christopher Tidy
>>Do Bondhus make keys without the ball end? I don't like ball end keys
>>myself.
>
>
> Yes, they do.
Thanks. Looks like the set I need is No. 12342. Sadly I can't find that
set listed for sale in England, so I'll likely be going with an Eklind
set. Probably this one:
http://www.buckandryan.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/EKL10213
Chris
Christopher Tidy
> When your storebought holder finally loosens up..go to any good Tool
> store and pick up those coin shaped yellow holders..about 2" in diameter
> with a small spring that goes all the way around it. Get em in Metric
> and Standard. Bout $3.50 each,
>
> Cant remember the name at the moment, but thats all I use on the job.
> Works great, tough, handy and keeps the wrenches in place just fine.
>
> Someone help with the name and a link? Or do I have to go out to the
> truck?
Sounds neat. After you next use them, post the name if you can remember.
But hopefully I won't need it for a few years...
Chris
Christopher Tidy
> you mean "allen" wrenches?
Allen keys, Allen wrenches, hexagon keys, hexagon wrenches...and a few
others I think...they go by many names.
> Ecllind, Allen, Bondhus are the most common ones here in the US, with my
> personal choice going first for Bondhus, then Allen, then Ecklind, but
> only because Ive used far more Bondhus than Eclind. They are ALL 3,
> excellent "wrenches".
Looks like it's going to be Eklind for me. I have a number of big Allen
brand keys, things like 16 mm and 22 mm. 22 mm is the size for opening
mercury flasks :-). I like the Allen brand keys, but their sets only
come in a crappy vinyl wallet. I need better storage than that.
Chris
Christopher Tidy
> I've replaced a lot of bits in hex sockets with cut up chunks of Bondhus hex keys, the
> Bondhus replacements last far longer. When they do fail, they tend to fail lengthwise.
You mean they split longitudinally like a sausage? I'm just trying to
figure out the stresses in my mind. Probably the corners/ridges are
important too.
Chris
Ned Simmons
Sounds like a textbook torsional fatigue failure.
http://school.mech.uwa.edu.au/~dwright/DANotes/springs/fatigue/fatigue.html
http://school.mech.uwa.edu.au/~dwright/DANotes/springs/fatigue/fatigueSurfaceBIG.jpeg
--
Ned Simmons
Christopher Tidy
>>You mean they split longitudinally like a sausage? I'm just trying to
>>figure out the stresses in my mind. Probably the corners/ridges are
>>important too.
>
>
> Sounds like a textbook torsional fatigue failure.
> http://school.mech.uwa.edu.au/~dwright/DANotes/springs/fatigue/fatigue.html
> http://school.mech.uwa.edu.au/~dwright/DANotes/springs/fatigue/fatigueSurfaceBIG.jpeg
I was thinking a torsional failure should have a 45 degree helical
fracture surface, but I guess the ridges change the course of the crack.
Chris
Christopher Tidy
this thread in the future, I will mention that the ends of the keys are
sheared, not ground. I was disappointed in this, but I must say that
it's very neat shearing with only the slightest distortion. So I'm
keeping them.
Chris
sta...@prolynx.com
wrote:
That's why belt/disc grinders include a miter gauge and a table for
same. A short touchup should fix 'em. I've really only had problems
with the smaller sizes and sheared ends and that was with some no-name
ones I inherited, came in a tire patch tube where my dad kept all of
his. He scarfed up a lot of them off the job where they were included
in electrical equipment to put it together.
Stan
Michael A. Terrell
I hope those are better than the ones they ship with knocked down
furniture. I got about a pound of those when some friends closed their
thrift store.
--
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