Plugging up cap screw holes for painting
Ignoramus11220
up various socket head cap screw holes, so that epoxy does not get
in, for obvious reasons. What is the best substance to do so, maybe
wood putty?
i
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:VJednf6X54TjmRHW...@giganews.com:
Iggy, I plug them with a drop of CA, then hit it with some kicker --
carefully applied so it doesn't sneak around the head. When you want it
out, it chips away pretty much in one piece.
LLoyd
Pete C.
I'd say cut some strips of paper, roll them into cylinders and slip them
into the holes around the screw heads. After painting remove them
immediately before the paint cures. Some paint might wick down around
the outside of the hole, but that shouldn't hurt anything, and when you
remove the paper the screw itself should be completely clean.
Ed Huntress
"Ignoramus11220" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.11220.invalid> wrote in message
news:VJednf6X54TjmRHW...@giganews.com...
Plasticine (modeler's clay). Don't smear it around and get oil on the parts
you want the epoxy to adhere to. If you have any microcrystalline wax, used
for sculpture and lost-wax casting, that works well, too.
'Course, chewing gum probably would work just fine, as well. d8-)
--
Ed Huntress
Ignoramus11220
i
Ed Huntress
"Ignoramus11220" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.11220.invalid> wrote in message
>I think that I will buy some Play-Dough.
I was going to list Play-Doh but I thought this was getting ridiculous. <g>
Be careful. It contains salt and surfactants. (I know this because my wife
buys it by the case, for her pre-schoolers). Wipe it out with a damp cloth
or something.
--
Ed Huntress
Pete C.
Ignoramus11220 wrote:
>
> I think that I will buy some Play-Dough.
I'd recommend the paper, not any sort of putty. With the paper you can
remove it immediately after painting, just like other "normal" masking.
With any sort of putty, the only way you can remove it is to scrape it
out after removing the screw from the hole, vastly more work for no gain
in masking functionality.
PS: Did you get that mill moved? Pictures posted somewhere?
Ignoramus11220
Friday is the day
Ignoramus11220
>
> "Ignoramus11220" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.11220.invalid> wrote in message
>>I think that I will buy some Play-Dough.
>
> I was going to list Play-Doh but I thought this was getting ridiculous. <g>
>
> Be careful. It contains salt and surfactants. (I know this because my wife
> buys it by the case, for her pre-schoolers). Wipe it out with a damp cloth
> or something.
I feel kind of stupid, the answer, of course, is to make my own actual
dough with water and flour, and be done with it in 5 minutes at zero cost.
i
William Wixon
"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:4b8c0ede$0$22511$607e...@cv.net...
just curious, why couldn't you just use grease?
(i used grease once, painted an old arc welder, i wanted to mask off the
existing printing on the exterior of teh device, i just dabbed on small
blobs of grease on top of the printing, painted it, let it dry, wiped off
the paint covered blobs of grease, seemed to have worked fine, was that
bad?)
b.w.
Ed Huntress
"Ignoramus11220" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.11220.invalid> wrote in message
And, if you want to thicken it up without making it too dry, add a couple of
teaspoons of cream of tartar for a cup of flour. And a teaspoon of cooking
oil or mineral oil. <g>
That. plus about 1/3 cup of salt and 1 cup of water, is close to the
original recipe for Play-Doh. For your kids, cut the salt in half and add
food coloring. The color is a little dimmer than the commercial stuff. Salt
makes it fade fast.
It will keep for quite a while in a Ziploc bag. (Yes, my wife also makes it,
when she doesn't need color.)
--
Ed Huntress
Pete C.
Time to make and apply, minimal. Time to remove, maximal. Paper, think
plain old paper rolled into a tube to fit over the SHCS screw head.
Don't make things difficult for yourself.
Ed Huntress
"William Wixon" <wwi...@frontiernet.net> wrote in message
news:sdWin.3889$cp7....@newsfe23.iad...
Oil-based paints can tolerate some oil -- they'll incorporate it. If you're
a painter who uses natural-bristle brushes, you probably know that wiping a
cleaned brush into one or two drops of motor oil in the palm of your hand,
while the brush is still wet, is the way to get a long life and some
flexibility out of them.
However, with epoxy paint, any oil on the surface is bad news.
--
Ed Huntress
axolotl
I lean towards Play-Dough.
Kevin Gallimore
Cydrome Leader
maybe he makes his own paper too.
Bill McKee
"Ignoramus11220" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.11220.invalid> wrote in message
Plumbers puddy. Cheap, never hardens.
Steve W.
Shoe goo.
Put a dab in the hole with a chunk of thread or wire loop in it. Paint.
Pull the plugs out.
--
Steve W.
James Waldby
> Ignoramus11220 wrote:
>> I will paint part of my lathe today, with epoxy paint. I want to plug
>> up various socket head cap screw holes, so that epoxy does not get in,
>> for obvious reasons. What is the best substance to do so, maybe wood
>> putty?
> Shoe goo.
> Put a dab in the hole with a chunk of thread or wire loop in it. Paint.
> Pull the plugs out.
<http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R412> has some
.25" OD, .0625" ID disk magnets you could use as caps. Perhaps
shove them into short pieces of .25" ID plastic tubing. Also
see <http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?products_id=102>
--
jiw
Ignoramus11220
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Martin H. Eastburn
Solder iron can melt... Dig out is easier.
Martin
Ignoramus11220
> Wax candle - pack it in. Later it can be melted or dug out.
> Solder iron can melt... Dig out is easier.
Plumbers putty worked out OK. I primed about 1/2 of the lathe today.
i
Don Foreman
Mr. Holland, a gunsmith who does some superb epoxy pillar bedding of
rifle actions, uses plumber's putty.
Ignoramus5280
Don, plumber's putty worked out very well. I primed about half of my
lathe with epoxy zinc filled primer, last night. Since epoxy is pretty
tough stuff, I did not want it to get inside the screw heads or seal
their perimeter.
i
