Universal carbide bit?
Existential Angst
I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that are
also lined with concrete.
Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could
also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?
Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?
--
EA
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:4b5ef31d$0$31272$607e...@cv.net:
> I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that
> are also lined with concrete.
> Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it
> could
> also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?
Of course you can, but why not just take some care with a common twist
drill, and not drill too far past the buck? Use a stop if you're not good
at stopping it by hand.
It'll take a lot less work to tweak the edge on a HSS bit after you buzz
it a little on concrete, than it will to put the proper edge on a masonry
bit, which still won't cut all that well in steel. An as-ground masonry
bit will go through wood just fine, although its flutes will load up
fast.
LLoyd
Frank J Warner
<UNfi...@UNoptonline.net> wrote:
You should probably forget this idea. It's easier to pull the ATM out
of the wall with a decent 3/4-ton and some chain. Odds are that if you
get four blocks away without getting popped, you get to keep all the
$20s.
-Frank
--
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com
Bob La Londe
news:4b5ef31d$0$31272$607e...@cv.net...
I run into this fairly often in commercial buildings. Metal jamb, filled
with mortar, brick, steel plate, more brick. What a pain. Since I am
getting paid for it I just include the cost of a couple HSS bits in the job
for every door and they go in my dull bits pile which sometimes actually get
sharpened instead of tossed.
There was a company selling carbide tipped bits for cutting "everything" at
some of the home improvement and trade shows about 13-15 years ago. I
bought a set and they worked ok on steel in a drill press where I could put
a lot of pressure on them, but in a hand drill they were just about as
worthless as a masonry bit for drilling steel. I wish I still had that baby
drill press. It had a lot less wobble and runout than the floor model I
have now.
Pete Keillor
wrote:
Was it a Relton Groo-V bit? I recently got one for use in my
Milwaukee hammer drill. I was setting 1/2" anchors in rock for some
glass shelves. This bit went in easier than the old 3/16" masonry bit
I used to mark the locations, even in the hard rock (a lot of the rock
was a very soft limestone widely used around here, the hard stuff had
a lot of small shell fossils in it). It claims to also be for hard
metal, tile, etc. I may try it on some steel and see how it does.
Pete Keillor
Kevin(Bluey)
These are supposed to be the ducks nuts of drill bits .
Never tried them myself but have seen demos where they drill through
wood steel and masonry stacked onto of each other.
http://www.artu.com/drillbits.htm
--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."
Existential Angst
news:pcadnd5nW9ErFPzW...@westnet.com.au...
> Existential Angst wrote:
>> Awl --
>>
>> I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that
>> are also lined with concrete.
>> Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could
>> also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?
>>
>> Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?
>>
>
>
>
> These are supposed to be the ducks nuts of drill bits .
> Never tried them myself but have seen demos where they drill through wood
> steel and masonry stacked onto of each other.
>
> http://www.artu.com/drillbits.htm
Interesting.
But, ultimately, these look like better-made, better sharpened masonary
bits, with more versatile flutes.
And, as per Steve's very nice videos, it seems this masonary geometry is
serviceable (if not ideal) for metal/wood.
Artus made some reference to their bit grinding material away, instead of
cutting.... hmmmm.....
Mebbe it's time to experiment with the masonary bits that I have, fool
around with a green wheel and a drill press.
I will fool around, and keep Lloyd's comments in mind, that mebbe the best
compromise is sep. twist and masonary drills.
Also, there is all kinds of quality of carbide. I have used brazed carbide
lathe tools that were inferior to good HSS -- near useless, in fact. Maybe
the Artus achieves it's versatility not by very novel design but by using
good tough carbide.
--
EA
Wild_Bill
ago, and I took a pamphlet to read.
At the time, they stated that their drills were not to be used for steel,
only non-ferrous metals.
So, I didn't buy any of them, but if not for the steel exception, I would
have.
It's likely that they have changed them, but I wonder if any old stock
drills would be distinguishable from the newer drills.
--
WB
.........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
"Kevin(Bluey)" <blu...@westnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:pcadnd5nW9ErFPzW...@westnet.com.au...
>