I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
from the socket of a battery jumper pack.
Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
used to have these) and actually have more power
than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
replace individual cells as they failed.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:hpnelq$c3m$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
>cordless drill, and external battery pack?
No, but I have, on a couple of occasions, cracked open the original
battery and replaced the cells inside.
>Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
>hours,
That must have been at least 20 years ago. I just bought some 4200mAh
NiMH ones. That is suspiciously high, though. Around 3000mAh is more
common.
>Plus, being able to test and
>replace individual cells as they failed.
There's no point. Once the first cell dies, the rest are not far
behind. Also, an automatic charger could get confused if the battery
had a mix of fresh and old cells. In the long run, it's much better
economy to replace all cells at the same time.
--
RoRo
I've done that a couple of times and have had great results.
Better than brand new!
>
> That must have been at least 20 years ago. I just bought some 4200mAh
> NiMH ones. That is suspiciously high, though. Around 3000mAh is more
> common.
>
> There's no point. Once the first cell dies, the rest are not far
> behind. Also, an automatic charger could get confused if the battery
> had a mix of fresh and old cells. In the long run, it's much better
> economy to replace all cells at the same time.
--
Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/
I looked at doing that once. The original cells were spot-welded
together with tabs of SS. How do you connect 8 individual Li-Ion cells?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Bill Noble" <nob...@nowhere.invalid> wrote in message
news:hpngc1$ovv$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>You know, that would work fine, for 12 volt drills.
9.6 and even 7.2 volt drills will run a LONG time on 12 volt battery.
A friend build a Zenith 701 using a 7.2 Makita on a 12 volt battery -
and that's a LOT of holes.
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:hpo56d$geb$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
I would use something more substantial than zip cord, though. IIRC 16
wire isn't good for much over 4 amps. Why waste ANY power?--- I'd use
12 Ga extension cord wire.
Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------
> In my case it's only the lack of getting "a round toit" that keeps me
> from it. I tore apart a dead battery pack for my 12 volt Dewalt drill
> about a year ago, with that very plan in mind. I used to use that drill
> to tap maple trees and I could get about 50 taps per charge. That's
> drilling a 7/16" hole about 2 inches deep.
> The idea is to simply strap a garden tractor battery to my back as I
> tap the trees. I shouldn't have to go back to the trail to get a fresh
> battery all day.
>
> I would use something more substantial than zip cord, though. IIRC 16
> wire isn't good for much over 4 amps. Why waste ANY power?--- I'd use
> 12 Ga extension cord wire.
Question of where you want to spend your effort on that use - I tapped
about 200 trees using a brace and bit - the old fashioned cordless
drill. I've also driven a lot of screws with them, including quite a
number when all the new-fangled drills in the area were waiting on the
charger. I'd much rather tromp around carrying & powering the brace and
bit than carry a heavy battery (or one of those gawd-awful gasoline
drills some folks just love.)
I also have a 12V drill awaiting the car-battery conversion - just don't
see using it for that job, considering.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
As to AC power, I know 14 gage is rated 15 amps, so 16
should be 10 amps or so rated. DC? I really don't know.
Vehicle starting batteries don't like deep discharges. If
you do 25 holes between recharges. Your battery will last a
lot longer.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"spaco" <sp...@baldwin-telecom.net> wrote in message
news:aoWdnQ1DrIYZPiLW...@bright.net...
Ive got one like that I use camping and such. I also have a 100 amp
deep discharge battery I can use with it. I helped a neighbor build a
storage building kit last fall. He didnt believe it when I told him I
could put the whole thing together on one charge.HeHe.
Jimmie
(Fun, yes, but not fair...)
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"JIMMIE" <jimm...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:5ffec667-301c-4dcb...@8g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
>Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
>cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
>while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.
Yes I have. I had an older sears drill, and one of the battery packs
died. After the autopsy, I soldered heavy zipcord to the contacts.
A cigarette plug on the other end went into a AGM battery, 12v 6Ah.
Draws a lot of power, about 20A.
>
>I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
>zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
>from the socket of a battery jumper pack.
Many battery jumper packs have a 10A circuit breaker.
>
>Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
>hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
>cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
>pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
>used to have these) and actually have more power
>than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
>replace individual cells as they failed.
You might find that the AA cell packs won't handle that much current.
--
Dan H.
northshore MA.
>How do you connect 8 individual Li-Ion cells?
You buy cells that have solder tabs welded to them. Just cut the tabs
to length and solder.
--
RoRo
Yes I have. I had an older sears drill, and one of the
battery packs
died. After the autopsy, I soldered heavy zipcord to the
contacts.
A cigarette plug on the other end went into a AGM battery,
12v 6Ah.
CY: Now, that sounds good.
Draws a lot of power, about 20A.
CY: Did you measure it?
>
>I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
>zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
>from the socket of a battery jumper pack.
Many battery jumper packs have a 10A circuit breaker.
CY: I can believe that.
>
>Most Sub-C that I've found in drills are 1600 mA
>hours, Compared to the cheap Rayovac NiMH AA
>cells, which are about 2,000. could use a 12 volt
>pack that runs AA cells (eight AA cells, Rat Shack
>used to have these) and actually have more power
>than the original pack. Plus, being able to test and
>replace individual cells as they failed.
You might find that the AA cell packs won't handle that much
current.
CY: Well, that's very possible. I had not thought of that.
Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
objective of a "Cordless" drill. If you have to put up with cables all
over the place, use a mains powered one. But I must admit, theres one
glaring exception - using a modded one to raise and lower the
stabilisers on your caravan/rv. Beats winding 4 of them by hand, cheap
enuff so theres no major drama if it breaks/goes walkies.
NiCads - here at any rate, they are too expensive to replace a pack
with brand name cells. Too much, considering the cost of a new drill,
usually with 2 batteries nowadays. (And salvage rights on the old ones
- )
And in a reply to your query re my post, I dont want the chuck, I
wanted the motor and the control electronics to build a power feed for
my mini-mill. Combining 2 net references - one guy used the cordless
drill motor and slightly modified the speed controls, another person
came up with a nifty coupling that could be easily engaged/disengaged.
Got the housing built, and the motor mounts as well, need to machine
the drive coupling to the mill lead screw. No precision, just power
feed and rapid traverse, so any slop isn't a problem....
Andrew VK3BFA
Thanks
--
WB
.........
"Andrew VK3BFA" <VK3...@wia.org.au> wrote in message
news:cb5bbd59-af34-4195...@z3g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
>Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
>objective of a "Cordless" drill.
Well...if one has to lug a small battery pack around, versus running
150' of extension cord across the landscape.....has it really bypassed
the fundimental design?
Gunner
"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.
This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Gunner Asch" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a1q1s5p06lrmj9but...@4ax.com...
Thanks for the note on why removing a chuck.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Andrew VK3BFA" <VK3...@wia.org.au>
wrote in message
news:cb5bbd59-af34-4195...@z3g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental
design
objective of a "Cordless" drill. If you have to put up with
cables all
over the place, use a mains powered one.
Andrew VK3BFA
>I've had moments when I'm away from a power socket. But, a
>short cord to battery pack would be no big concern.
Thats pretty much how I was figuring it as well.
After reading this thread..Ill be converting a very nice high end
Craftsman cordless drill to external battery pack. I picked it up at a
yard sale for $2. All three battery packs are stone dead and wont take a
charge.
Ill gut one pack, hook a long wire to it and connect to a battery. The
other two battery packs Ill save and perhaps rebuild when money gets
better.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Gunner Asch" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:eip2s5drkmibgio7f...@4ax.com...
>>Have you ever built a battery drill, using a dead
>>cordless drill, and external battery pack? For a
>>while, I was saving a 12 volt drill that was dead.
>
>Yes I have. I had an older sears drill, and one of the
>battery packs
>died. After the autopsy, I soldered heavy zipcord to the
>contacts.
>A cigarette plug on the other end went into a AGM battery,
>12v 6Ah.
>
>CY: Now, that sounds good.
The whole rig is heavier, but it lightened up the drill a lot.
>
>Draws a lot of power, about 20A.
>
>CY: Did you measure it?
Yep. Current varies with load. 20A was the highest I got it with a
quick test. Might be more with a bigger load or different drill.
I think you could do some light drilling with a 10A limit.
>>
>>I save it, becuase I figured I could put a length of
>>zipcord on it, and run it to a lighter plug. Power it
>>from the socket of a battery jumper pack.
>
>Many battery jumper packs have a 10A circuit breaker.
>CY: I can believe that.
You can open them up and add heaver wire and a bigger breaker, or make
up a lighter socket that you can attach to the jumper clamps.
My drill battery was a deep cycle group 27 that was no longer usable as
a trolling battery, but in it's crippled state it worked great for my
9.6-volt drill
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"RBnDFW" <burkh...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:hpvfb5$98s$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Alan
> That's very clever. Is it dificult to carry around?
In a good backpack, probably not. It's only around 60 pounds.:)
Yes, but I don't carry it far, just around the shop.
It's usually quicker to use than a corded 110V, and the cables are much
longer, and it has an adjustable clutch which I use a lot.
Andrew VK3BFA.
Your mad - lugging a 60lb pack around so you can drill holes???? - you
must be a lot younger and fitter than I..
Andrew VK3BFA.
Thats good -works because you don't have to lug it around except from
room to room. Will mentally file that one away...
Andrew VK3BFA
>On Apr 11, 7:06 am, Gunner Asch <gunnera...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:15:36 -0700 (PDT),AndrewVK3BFA
>>
>> <VK3...@wia.org.au> wrote:
>> >Yep, would work - but why? - you've bypassed the fundamental design
>> >objective of a "Cordless" drill.
>>
>> Well...if one has to lug a small battery pack around, versus running
>> 150' of extension cord across the landscape.....has it really bypassed
>> the fundimental design?
>>
>> Gunner
>>
>>
>Yep, for 2 reasons.....
>Your a professional Gunner - it is expected you have a working
>cordless drill. And if your going to drill more than a few little
>holes, then you have to use a powered drill anyway.
Why? Granted..I do have both professional grade cordless and wired
drills in my truck, some applications pretty much beg for long lasting
cordless drills. For example, putting together a steel shed kit.
I did that a year ago last November, prior to my medical issues. Took
me 12 hours of labor to assemble it. The shed was 150 feet from the
nearest power source so I used one of my 18vlt cordless drills. It
should have taken me 10hrs or less simply because I was running out of
battery regularly. There was no power on the site, I should mention as
well.
Doing further work, I had to bring one of my several gennies out there
and it was a pain in the ass to listen to it running 8 hrs a day. Not
to mention..the fuel and wear costs.
>Your power cables should be on reels for easy deployment/recovery
>anyway, so its no great drama to run them out. In the back of your
>truck, near the back door for easy access. I found that the plastic
>spools that MIG wire comes on are great, fairly bit internal diameter
>so don't crimp or stress the cable.
>
>Andrew VK3BFA.
And plug them into what? While I do have a 3000 watt inverter in the
van..I dont drive the van all that often. Not at 15mpg.
Sigh......maybe you need to look at your work practices, this is not
politics where ideology can excuse anything. Its 2010 Gunner - think
about how you do things.......
Andrew VK3BFA.
1st Law of Rightist Debate - find an obscure quote from someone who is
totally unknown, appropriate it for your own use. Bullshit baffles
brains, as we say here in OZ.
>Sigh......maybe you need to look at your work practices, this is not
>politics where ideology can excuse anything. Its 2010 Gunner - think
>about how you do things.......
>Andrew VK3BFA.
>
And what am I doing incorrectly? Be specific. Use as much white space
as necessary.
I notice you ignored the questions that I asked above. Was there some
reason for that?
>1st Law of Rightist Debate - find an obscure quote from someone who is
>totally unknown, appropriate it for your own use. Bullshit baffles
>brains, as we say here in OZ.
Yes, after reading your posts for a number of years..Im quite familiar
with aussie bullshit.
Now please answer the questions.
It does have a lingering stench, doesn't it?
--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
>
>Gunner Asch wrote:
>>
>> Yes, after reading your posts for a number of years..Im quite familiar
>> with aussie bullshit.
>
>
> It does have a lingering stench, doesn't it?
Indeed it does. Fortunately..the wind is usually blowing the other way.
But..I do have very fond memories of many I&Is spent in Oz and all the
marvelous women that fucked me nearly out of my mind for free.
Too bad they couldnt get it from their old men..drunk as skunks in a a
pub somewhere.....tsk tsk tsk.
Drunk as skunks and spraying for no reason. :(