115 pc drill sets a waste?
Existential Angst
tapping -- mebbe roll taps as well.
What else? Pins, roll pins, I guess, but I don't use those much.
Metric: Most common: 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 mm?
I have Huot bulk drill case, in a small shop. The oddball sizes I figger a
cupla drills would be enough, but for things like #7, 21, 1/4", etc, I
should have at least 10 on hand.
Probably drill point angle would be an issue as well. Get 118 and 135 deg?
If I just went with one angle, what would be better?
In general, is cobalt worth the extra $? Coated?
I proly break shit before I wear it out..... :(
--
EA
tnik
We just buy HSS drills.. 118 angle.. Unless your in a production
environment I can't see spending the extra money on cobalt/coated
drills. Drills over I'd say 3/8" we resharpen, anything smaller we just
toss and buy more. We're MSC whores so when we need something, we get it
the next day.. MSC and enco usually has deals on cutting tools so if we
know we're running low we'll wait till the coupon comes in and stock
up.. Normally buy 10 drills at a time of any particular size.
Ignoramus1419
i
Randy333
idea what the next job in the door will be and what size drills I will
need. I do stock up on the common sizes. I have several of the big
Huot cabinets.
sta...@prolynx.com
Re:metric
Get the most common clearance and tap sizes for those. And you'd be
surprised at how much you use those off sizes in the regular 115 piece
sets. I'm always needing a drill just a bit bigger for drilling out
busted screws and the like. If I could get a metric set for a decent
price by tenths(and refills!), I could probably chuck all the
fractional/letter/number stuff. It's always been a mystery, with 90+%
of the world on the metric system, how we end up being screwed on
metric tooling costs.
As far as cobalt, I've found these useful for the harder steels, like
on guns. For aluminum, probably no advantage. They're brittle, so if
you do a lot of free-hand drilling, prepare to buy spares. There is
no one drill type and material that's going to do it all.
Stan
Jon Danniken
I've never regretted purchasing my 115 piece set, and have had the need to
use quite a few of the oddball sizes when a hole had to be "just so".
I still rely on my 13 piece set for most holes though, only cracking open
the big one when I need to.
Jon
Bob La Londe
news:RPGdnQxVMfAbBhXQ...@giganews.com...
> A decent set is not a waste. My Shars set is, at least, usable.
>
> i
Isn't Shars just another importer? My Shars (has Shars etched on them)
vises came in Chinese crates even though they shipped to me from your neck
of the woods.
P.S. I am very happy with my large (6" opening) Shar's vises by the way. I
did have to do some minor improvements on the cross bar assembly, but at the
price I can't complain. The machined bodies of the vises are superior in
accuracy to anything I need at this time. I'm considering buying 3 of their
small 1" step jaw vises for small stuff, for the machine I intend to
dedicate to drag engraving, and for use as a lower profile two piece vise.
To the OP. I have a couple of the 115 sets. I like being able to pick up
the decimal drill bit chart and then pick out a bit within a few thousandths
of of what I want every time. I've have/had a Tin, Cobalt, and HSS sets.
The cobalt coated do seem to last longer initially, but after they get a bit
worn they are all pretty much the same. I also find that I mostly use the
same bits over and over again, so for certain things I'll probably bulk
purchase bits in specific sizes in the future. In my contracting business I
already by 3/8 bits by the half dozen. D & F also get used a lot for
setting alignment pins in molds. Also, 21 & 7 for clamping screws.
The big thing is organization. A 115 pc set is wonderful until you push it
off the work bench once. The bigger sizes are no big deal, but all those
smaller number sizes are impossible to sort again. I get a new cabinet (new
to me) and decided to put my newest 115 piece set in a drawer and never take
it out so that couldn't happen. Didn't really realize that it didn't have
proper drawer slides so of course the first time I left the drawer out while
I turned to check one of my size tables it fell on my foot. Not only did my
toe hurt for three days, but now I have a drawer full of loose bits I
scooped off the floor. LOL.
Anyway, my thought on buying specific sizes you use a lot is develop a good
system for keep new unused bits, good used bits, and worn bits straight by
usage and size.
steamer
you need 'em. I've got two: one for jobbers and one for stubbies; both
filled. Ya never know when you'll need an oddball: customer called the other
day and is sending a bit I *still* don't have to do a special job; funny how
that works out...
For common sizes it's a good idea to get spares and keep 'em safe
somewhere; I tend to buy these 5 at a time..
--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Steel, Stainless, Titanium:
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Guaranteed Uncertified Welding!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
Ignoramus6593
> "Ignoramus1419" <ignora...@NOSPAM.1419.invalid> wrote in message
> news:RPGdnQxVMfAbBhXQ...@giganews.com...
>> A decent set is not a waste. My Shars set is, at least, usable.
>>
>> i
>
>
> Isn't Shars just another importer? My Shars (has Shars etched on them)
> vises came in Chinese crates even though they shipped to me from your neck
> of the woods.
They are an importer, yes.
The drills that I bought from them, do their job.
> P.S. I am very happy with my large (6" opening) Shar's vises by the way. I
> did have to do some minor improvements on the cross bar assembly, but at the
> price I can't complain. The machined bodies of the vises are superior in
> accuracy to anything I need at this time. I'm considering buying 3 of their
> small 1" step jaw vises for small stuff, for the machine I intend to
> dedicate to drag engraving, and for use as a lower profile two piece vise.
I also have that 6" Shars vise and I am not at all complaining -- it
does its job for me.
I am thinking about buying a second one.
i
Cydrome Leader
I like cobalt bits for drilling stuff like steel pipe. However, with small
diameter bits, it seems more likely you'll just break them before they
wear out.
Ecnerwal
"Bob La Londe" <onebi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> To the OP. I have a couple of the 115 sets. I like being able to pick up
> the decimal drill bit chart and then pick out a bit within a few thousandths
> of of what I want every time.
I have a budget Enco set of HSS - nothing fancy. When I wear out or
break one, then it's time to consider getting a better drill bit (or
bits) in that size. As such, the sizes I haven't used are not costing me
much, but I have something in all sizes. If not budget constrained, or
less hobby and more production, different economics may apply.
> I've have/had a Tin, Cobalt, and HSS sets.
> The cobalt coated do seem to last longer initially, but after they get a bit
> worn they are all pretty much the same.
TiN is coated. Cobalt is cobalt through and through - if sharpened
properly, good as new. If you just run them dull and toss, different
economics again.
> The big thing is organization. A 115 pc set is wonderful until you push it
> off the work bench once. The bigger sizes are no big deal, but all those
> smaller number sizes are impossible to sort again.
Easy as reading a micrometer. Something you can set the apprentice or
kid on if you have one or the other and a slow period. Or do yourself,
unless you bring in so much money that it's worthwhile to just buy a new
set rather than take the time. Most places there's somebody who can be
useful at least part of their time doing background tasks like sorting
drill bits.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Edward A. Falk
I don't think they're a waste of money.
First, you get a nice drill index. Second, you get a complete set of
bits, so there's always the size you need.
Sure, the bits are junk, but that's ok. Some of them you hardly use at
all, so they won't get dull very quickly. It's just nice to have them
in case you need them.
Those that *do* wear out, you just replace with a nice cobalt bit and
drop it in the same spot in the box the dull one was in.
So you always have a complete set of bits, and the ones you use most
often are high quality. It's worked for me for years.
Or, you could spend a couple hundred bucks and get a complete set of
cobalt bits, most of which you hardly use.
--
-Ed Falk, fa...@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
F. George McDuffee
<fit...@optonline.net> wrote:
>Ahm thinkin all's you really need are drills for screw clearance and
>tapping -- mebbe roll taps as well.
>What else? Pins, roll pins, I guess, but I don't use those much.
>
>Metric: Most common: 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 mm?
>
>I have Huot bulk drill case, in a small shop. The oddball sizes I figger a
>cupla drills would be enough, but for things like #7, 21, 1/4", etc, I
>should have at least 10 on hand.
>
>Probably drill point angle would be an issue as well. Get 118 and 135 deg?
>If I just went with one angle, what would be better?
It depends on your usual material and what you are using to
drive the drill, i.e. loosey-goosey drill press, Bridgeport,
lathe, etc. In general the sharper points work better with
softer material and the blunter points [135 degree] work
better for hard material. The 118 degree is a general
point. A 135 degree w/ or w/o split point will tend to walk
less than a 118 degree point. Unless you have a need to
drill the deeper holes, the jobber length drills flex more.
Without anymore information on what you are doing I suggest
135 degree screw machine length drills.
One source is
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14411/
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14587/
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14598/
>
>In general, is cobalt worth the extra $? Coated?
>I proly break shit before I wear it out..... :(
Cobalt, while it increases the heat/wear resistance also
makes a drill more brittle and prone to breakage/chipping.
Unless you are in high volume production with rigid
equipment, good quality HSS drills will most likely be more
satisfactory and economical. TiN coating can be helpful in
reducing chip welding.
One dodge that I have found helpful is to notice which
taps/drills I use the most frequently, and buy both taper
and bottoming taps, and possibly a gun tap, with 135 degree
split point drills for a tap drill, and both tight and lose
body clearence. I like to keep the taps and drills in a
plastic reloader box as this keeps everthing together and
protects the tools.
http://tool.wttool.com/search?p=KK&srid=S9-2&lbc=wttool&ts=custom&pw=taps&uid=21976513&isort=score&view=grid&w=Bottoming%20Tap&rk=2
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=32549/Product/MTM_20_Rd_Slip_Top
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=32584/Product/MTM_22_Rd_Box_for_Ultra_Mags__416_Rigby
-- Unka George (George McDuffee)
..............................
The past is a foreign country;
they do things differently there.
L. P. Hartley (1895-1972), British author.
The Go-Between, Prologue (1953).
Winston
> --If you can buy the empty boxes and fill 'em with quality drills as
> you need 'em. I've got two: one for jobbers and one for stubbies; both
> filled. Ya never know when you'll need an oddball: customer called the other
> day and is sending a bit I *still* don't have to do a special job; funny how
> that works out...
> For common sizes it's a good idea to get spares and keep 'em safe
> somewhere; I tend to buy these 5 at a time..
I sorted the contents of my many drill indexes into these:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0012&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0013&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
They seem expensive but pay for themselves the first few times
that you can continue a project because the proper bit is
available rather than hidden away in a forgotten drawer.
--Winston
Wayne
My experience and usage is the same as yours.
I've also found them useful for measuring holes and clearances where
I couldn't get in with anything else to do the measuring.
Wayne D.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:RPGdnQxVMfAbBhXQ...@giganews.com:
> A decent set is not a waste. My Shars set is, at least, usable.
>
> i
Expect to spend about $400 for a good set. Those $99 jobs are just a waste
of time and ruined jobs.
I have one of the $99 jobs for when my son visits the shop with a
"project". I have an UGLY placard inside my good set that says - basically
- if you touch, you die.
LLoyd
PrecisionmachinisT
"Existential Angst" <fit...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:4d88955b$0$17517$607e...@cv.net...
Buy a couple cheap assed sets and fill the hout up with them...
After that ( since IIRC you basically have a dedicated product line) I
would suggest buy any sizes that you routinely use in production on an
as-needed basis by purchasing at full package quantity and in the particular
style that the job dictates.
For instance, while my own kit has copius amounts of spare stub length
drills in certain sizes, which are often used for pre-reaming dowel pin
holes, ( eliminates the need for center-drilling ) as well as for clearance
and tap drill sizes for the 1/4-20 and 10-32...( and usually they brights
because I mostly machine aluminum ) it also has quite a few empty
spaces--spaces which I see no need to suddenly rush out and buy replacements
because they are basically oddballs sizes antways.
PrecisionmachinisT
"Winston" <Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote in message
news:imb1n...@news6.newsguy.com...
>
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0012&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
>
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0013&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
>
Cart is currently empty.
--
BQ340
I finally broke down and bought the Enco $100 118 degree set a couple of
years ago & am glad I did. They have been ok. Very useful to have the
size selection on hand.
MikeB
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
$a826...@newsreader.readnews.com:
>
> I finally broke down and bought the Enco $100 118 degree set a couple of
> years ago & am glad I did. They have been ok. Very useful to have the
> size selection on hand.
They are not accurately sized or ground on center.
All of the cheaper sets tend to drill oversize because of off-center tips,
or gall because the metal was not properly tempered, or do so because the
rake angles are mis-ground.
LLoyd
DoN. Nichols
[ ... ]
> The big thing is organization. A 115 pc set is wonderful until you push it
> off the work bench once. The bigger sizes are no big deal, but all those
> smaller number sizes are impossible to sort again.
A digital caliper is close enough to determine what goes where.
Measure across the flutes at the tip, because the shank is often a
little smaller than the tip. And at least the Huot indexes mark the
decimal diameter by each hole -- even decimal inches on the metric sets.
(Yes, I keep a pair of metric sets -- 1.0-6.0 mm and 6.1 to 12.0 mm to
both give the right size for metric hardware, and to fill in gaps in
sizes between the letter, number and fractional sets.
> I get a new cabinet (new
> to me) and decided to put my newest 115 piece set in a drawer and never take
> it out so that couldn't happen. Didn't really realize that it didn't have
> proper drawer slides so of course the first time I left the drawer out while
> I turned to check one of my size tables it fell on my foot. Not only did my
> toe hurt for three days, but now I have a drawer full of loose bits I
> scooped off the floor. LOL.
Ouch!
But it is worth your time (you are a hobbist, are you not) to
sort them properly back into the index. If a commercial machinist, your
time is money, and you may be better off getting a new set to save you
time finding the right bits from that drawer. :-)
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
DoN. Nichols
> steamer wrote:
>> --If you can buy the empty boxes and fill 'em with quality drills as
>> you need 'em. I've got two: one for jobbers and one for stubbies; both
>> filled. Ya never know when you'll need an oddball: customer called the other
>> day and is sending a bit I *still* don't have to do a special job; funny how
>> that works out...
>> For common sizes it's a good idea to get spares and keep 'em safe
>> somewhere; I tend to buy these 5 at a time..
>
> I sorted the contents of my many drill indexes into these:
>
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0012&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
>
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0013&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
Maybe so -- but these URLs were built at the time of your
product search and discarded when you left the site, so they lead to
nothing, now.
We really need the enco part number to know for sure what you
are pointing to.
Bob La Londe
> On 2011-03-22, Bob La Londe<onebi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> [ ... ]
>
>> The big thing is organization. A 115 pc set is wonderful until you push it
>> off the work bench once. The bigger sizes are no big deal, but all those
>> smaller number sizes are impossible to sort again.
>
> A digital caliper is close enough to determine what goes where.
> Measure across the flutes at the tip, because the shank is often a
> little smaller than the tip. And at least the Huot indexes mark the
> decimal diameter by each hole -- even decimal inches on the metric sets.
> (Yes, I keep a pair of metric sets -- 1.0-6.0 mm and 6.1 to 12.0 mm to
> both give the right size for metric hardware, and to fill in gaps in
> sizes between the letter, number and fractional sets.
>
>> I get a new cabinet (new
>> to me) and decided to put my newest 115 piece set in a drawer and never take
>> it out so that couldn't happen. Didn't really realize that it didn't have
>> proper drawer slides so of course the first time I left the drawer out while
>> I turned to check one of my size tables it fell on my foot. Not only did my
>> toe hurt for three days, but now I have a drawer full of loose bits I
>> scooped off the floor. LOL.
>
> Ouch!
>
> But it is worth your time (you are a hobbist, are you not) to
Well, yes. Mostly. LOL. People have started finding me though. Its
kind of gratifying when a buddy asks me to show him a solution to a
problem, its better than the "pro" shop (not that there are many here)
and he's floored (in a good way) when I tell him I'll make it for the
same price.
But yeah. I am a hobbyist, and it probably is worth my time to sort
them out. Atleast my time as a machinist. If I have the time. I run a
contracting company, fish, and play in the shop, and of course now the
wife wants some custom metal fences done in the back yard. I tried to
convice here it was worth me getting some fancy new metal bending stuff,
but then she decided she wanted cheaper fences. LOL.
BQ340
> They are not accurately sized or ground on center.
>
> All of the cheaper sets tend to drill oversize because of off-center tips,
> or gall because the metal was not properly tempered, or do so because the
> rake angles are mis-ground.
>
> LLoyd
Not that I've noticed in the set I have unless it is by a couple tenths.
(HSS, bright, Made in USA.)
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
$a826...@newsreader.readnews.com:
> Not that I've noticed in the set I have unless it is by a couple tenths.
> (HSS, bright, Made in USA.)
You didn't say what you paid for the set, but if you do any (read that as
_ANY_) press fits or shrink fits, you'd notice in a big hurry.
LLoyd
BQ340
Yes, I said: "bought the Enco $100 118 degree set a couple of years ago"
You may be correct about a press fit. I was taught to drill undersize &
ream, I did not know you could drill them directly.
MikeB
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
$a826...@newsreader.readnews.com:
> You may be correct about a press fit. I was taught to drill undersize &
> ream, I did not know you could drill them directly.
You certainly can't drill directly on large diameters (say, over .25"),
but you can with smaller bits and a good, low TIR chuck -- IF the bits
are well-sized and properly ground.
I've had multiple sets of both the inexpensive "made in USA" and Chinese
115 bit sets, and ultimately they always dissapoint. FWIW, the usual
flaw the the low-cost USA brands is mis-grinding, not Chinalloy hardening
or tempering, or under-sized/oversized drill stock. Hell, I've had
offshore sets where adjacent sizes in the index were exactly the same
size! (AND mis-ground!)
I even followed the (good) advice of "buy cheap, then replace the ones
you use with good bits", but inevitably ended up screwing up some
expensive work with the _next_ cheap bit I used. So I eventually broke
down and sprung for a _really_good_ set, and haven't looked back. (and
yeah... I still bugger one up now and then, but I buy the replacements
from the same source). Just one messed-up part 60% into the job is
justification for the price.
LLoyd
LLoyd
Ignoramus6593
Lloyd, this Shars one, seems to be different.
i
DoN. Nichols
> On 3/22/2011 8:25 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
>> Ahm thinkin all's you really need are drills for screw clearance and
>> tapping -- mebbe roll taps as well.
>> What else? Pins, roll pins, I guess, but I don't use those much.
>>
>> Metric: Most common: 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 mm?
>>
>> I have Huot bulk drill case, in a small shop. The oddball sizes I figger a
>> cupla drills would be enough, but for things like #7, 21, 1/4", etc, I
>> should have at least 10 on hand.
>>
>> Probably drill point angle would be an issue as well. Get 118 and 135 deg?
>> If I just went with one angle, what would be better?
[ ... ]
> I finally broke down and bought the Enco $100 118 degree set a couple of
> years ago & am glad I did. They have been ok. Very useful to have the
> size selection on hand.
My own preference is for the 135 degree angle, which usually
includes a split point -- does not walk on starting on a slight angle,
unlike the chisel points with the 118 degree points. I even was able to
drill a cross hole in a 5/16" round shaft (for a roller for the garage
door tracks) to install a cotter pin using a hand held electric drill
motor with it still in the garage door. No way I would have been able
to do that without a spotting drill first with the 118 degree chisel
points.
The split point also means that you need a lot less force to
drill reasonably than with a chisel point.
DoN. Nichols
I've seen one with one of the two flutes ground with a negative
clearance angle on the tip. :-)
And the index that these come is is a real pain to use compared
to a real HUOT index.
Winston
Ooof! Sorry.
If you log on to http://www.use-enco.com/
and search for their part numbers:
309-0012
309-0013
309-0014
309-0015
240-5943
You will see what I'm on about. Highly recommended.
It is on page 57 of their current web catalog.
Top right corner.
I tried again. Perhaps these will work better.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=950644&PMAKA=309-0012
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=951032&PMAKA=309-0013
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=950734&PMAKA=309-0014
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=951202&PMAKA=309-0015
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=4869406&PMAKA=240-5943
--Winston
Winston
> On 2011-03-22, Winston<Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote:
>> steamer wrote:
>>> --If you can buy the empty boxes and fill 'em with quality drills as
>>> you need 'em. I've got two: one for jobbers and one for stubbies; both
>>> filled. Ya never know when you'll need an oddball: customer called the other
>>> day and is sending a bit I *still* don't have to do a special job; funny how
>>> that works out...
>>> For common sizes it's a good idea to get spares and keep 'em safe
>>> somewhere; I tend to buy these 5 at a time..
>>
>> I sorted the contents of my many drill indexes into these:
>>
>> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0012&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
>>
>> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0013&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
>
> Maybe so -- but these URLs were built at the time of your
> product search and discarded when you left the site, so they lead to
> nothing, now.
>
> We really need the enco part number to know for sure what you
> are pointing to.
>
> Enjoy,
> DoN.
>
Mea culpa, DoN.
See also my corrected reply to PrecisionmachinisT
DoN. Nichols
> BQ340 <bq...@Adelphia.net> fired this volley in news:4d8949db$0$23115
> $a826...@newsreader.readnews.com:
>
>> You may be correct about a press fit. I was taught to drill undersize &
>> ream, I did not know you could drill them directly.
>
> You certainly can't drill directly on large diameters (say, over .25"),
> but you can with smaller bits and a good, low TIR chuck -- IF the bits
> are well-sized and properly ground.
>
> I've had multiple sets of both the inexpensive "made in USA" and Chinese
> 115 bit sets, and ultimately they always dissapoint. FWIW, the usual
> flaw the the low-cost USA brands is mis-grinding, not Chinalloy hardening
> or tempering, or under-sized/oversized drill stock.
As for Chinalloy -- I had a set perhaps around 1962 or so of
bits from Japan before good tools started coming from there. Butter
steel. Terrible -- a set of 1/16" to 1/4" in a little index with a clear
plastic front panel in the index.
> Hell, I've had
> offshore sets where adjacent sizes in the index were exactly the same
> size! (AND mis-ground!)
The 115 piece bit set which I got, while marked "Made in USA" on
the flyer, was over $200.00 perhaps ten years ago or more, and was (and
still is) a very good set (from MSC, FWIW).
Had I known then what I know now, I would have paid extra for
the 135 degree split point set. I've got a set of semi "Silver &
Deming" fractional bits with split points -- and no shank larger than
3/8" even with the largest bit size being 1/2". Index is painted bright
yellow, and I picked them up at a yard sale. Not cheap, but good
quality steel and well sharpened. (No, I would not have paid that for a
similar set of 118 degree points. :-)
I've also got a set of cobalt steel number (wire sized) bits in
screw machine length with the 135 degree split points. I'm quite
pleased with these.
> I even followed the (good) advice of "buy cheap, then replace the ones
> you use with good bits", but inevitably ended up screwing up some
> expensive work with the _next_ cheap bit I used.
I tried that with a cheap set of metric bits -- and quickly gave
them away after looking at the grind -- and experiencing the index,
which was terrible. :-)
DoN. Nichols
> On 3/22/2011 5:09 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
>> On 2011-03-22, Bob La Londe<onebi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
[ ... ]
>>> to me) and decided to put my newest 115 piece set in a drawer and never take
>>> it out so that couldn't happen. Didn't really realize that it didn't have
>>> proper drawer slides so of course the first time I left the drawer out while
>>> I turned to check one of my size tables it fell on my foot. Not only did my
>>> toe hurt for three days, but now I have a drawer full of loose bits I
>>> scooped off the floor. LOL.
>>
>> Ouch!
>>
>> But it is worth your time (you are a hobbist, are you not) to
>
>
>
> Well, yes. Mostly. LOL. People have started finding me though. Its
> kind of gratifying when a buddy asks me to show him a solution to a
> problem, its better than the "pro" shop (not that there are many here)
> and he's floored (in a good way) when I tell him I'll make it for the
> same price.
O.K. Still not enough income to justify the expensive solution.
> But yeah. I am a hobbyist, and it probably is worth my time to sort
> them out. Atleast my time as a machinist. If I have the time. I run a
> contracting company, fish, and play in the shop,
I am likely to do this sort of thing while watching news on the
TV, or reading (but not replying to) these newsgroup postings. Or --
while waiting for the little CNC lathe to tell me it is ready for the
next tool or the next workpiece.
> and of course now the
> wife wants some custom metal fences done in the back yard. I tried to
> convice here it was worth me getting some fancy new metal bending stuff,
> but then she decided she wanted cheaper fences. LOL.
Mine *knows* that any project involves purchasing tools. She
even helps me when I am working on our car -- by handing me tools while
I am under the car or whatever. She's even gotten to the point where
she anticipates the next tool some of the time. :-)
Rich Grise
>
>> (HSS, bright, Made in USA.)
>
> You didn't say what you paid for the set, but if you do any (read that as
> _ANY_) press fits or shrink fits, you'd notice in a big hurry.
>
Thanks,
Rich
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
> But don't reamers cost a fortune?
They aren't free, new. But I picked up nearly a shoebox full of assorted
decimal sizes - all in hot-dip - from .25" through just under 3/4" from a
garage sale for $25. You'll see decent ones around occasionally.
Still, a straight-flute chucking reamer in .785" (which happens to be the
common size for one of the tools I make a lot of ) only costs about $30,
and lasts for many, many holes if it's treated properly.
LLoyd
spaco
What am I missing?
Pete Stanaitis
---------------------
Rich Grise
> I thought that 135° bits would walk more, especially when hand-held.
> What am I missing?
>
I'd also like to know. Doesn't a center-punch (or center drill, on a
mill) help with that? Have you found drill bits to walk in an ordinary
drill press?
I'd have thought that the 135 degree bit would be applicable for a more
aggressive cut than a 115, or maybe it simply has to do with what you
want the bottom of the hole to look like, but I simply don't know.
Thanks,
Rich
[previous thread snipped after top-post.]
DoN. Nichols
> PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
>> "Winston"<Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote in message
>> news:imb1n...@news6.newsguy.com...
>>>
>>> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0012&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
>>>
>>> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=309-0013&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
>>>
>>
>> Cart is currently empty.
>
> Ooof! Sorry.
>
> If you log on to http://www.use-enco.com/
> and search for their part numbers:
> 309-0012
> 309-0013
> 309-0014
> 309-0015
> 240-5943
>
> You will see what I'm on about. Highly recommended.
> It is on page 57 of their current web catalog.
> Top right corner.
O.K. Sort of what I expected. I find one line in the first one
interesting:
======================================================================
Number of Drawers: 3.000
======================================================================
They could offer some with an increment of 0.001 drawer? :-)
Same applies to all of the above.
I had to go to the catalog page to see the images.
A little too expensive for me. I keep envelopes of the various
sized drills in order in a storage bin -- except for the two sizes of
left-hand drill bits, which are stored where I have to remember to look
for them to avoid accidental use. My drill presses don't have reverse
available, just the hand held electric and pneumatic drill motors.
> I tried again. Perhaps these will work better.
>
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=950644&PMAKA=309-0012
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=951032&PMAKA=309-0013
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=950734&PMAKA=309-0014
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=951202&PMAKA=309-0015
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=4869406&PMAKA=240-5943
Yes -- those actually work. But the catalog numbers and the
main catalog URL were sufficient. And easy enough to go from one to the
next with the "find it" near top center of each page.
Interesting that they only list 0.5 mm size steps for the metric
drill bits. I've got two HUOT metric drill indexes with 0.1 mm steps.
I guess that Huot makes the dispensers in 0.1mm size steps too.
I like the #1 - #80 dispenser (the most expensive one listed
there.)
Thanks,
F. George McDuffee
===========
Much depends on the type of work you are doing.
"Complete" sets are indeed expensive, but normally you only
need a few sizes. It can be useful to get three reamers,
one undersize, one on size and one over size in your common
sizes. Most any good mill supply should have in stock, but
for illustration see
http://tool.wttool.com/search?p=KK&srid=S9-4&lbc=wttool&ts=custom&pw=reamer%20straight%20flute&uid=21976513&isort=score&view=grid&w=Chucking%20Reamer&rk=2
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/product/product_id/34395/product_name/7-Piece+Chucking+Reamer+Set+%28WT%29
Depending on your shop practices/equipment, a useful reamer
modification is the trimming the reamer length to about the
same length as a jobber or even s/m length drill in the same
size as this will allow you to drill and ream a hole in the
same set-up with out losing alignment cranking the table
down or head up for clearance, moving the table to change
tools, etc.
Unless you have a heat problem, the invention of loc-tite
eliminated much of the need for press fits and very tight
hole tolerances.
If you have the time you can also make your own reamers, and
these are easy to sharpen. see
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-16514.html
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-39160.html
http://www.diybanter.com/metalworking/149076-slightly-embarrassing-question-about-shop-made-reamers.html
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?action=printpage;topic=9854.0
I have all three Lautard's books -- all are good reads and
well worth the money.
http://www.lautard.com/t3.htm
Winston
(...)
> O.K. Sort of what I expected. I find one line in the first one
> interesting:
>
> ======================================================================
> Number of Drawers: 3.000
> ======================================================================
>
> They could offer some with an increment of 0.001 drawer? :-)
An accurate *and* precise description; people still complain. :)
(...)
> A little too expensive for me. I keep envelopes of the various
> sized drills in order in a storage bin --
One bonus of the drawers is that after I retrieve a bit, I can take
one of it's mates and prop it up as a marker so that I can put
the bit back in the proper bin quickly.
(...)
> Interesting that they only list 0.5 mm size steps for the metric
> drill bits. I've got two HUOT metric drill indexes with 0.1 mm steps.
> I guess that Huot makes the dispensers in 0.1mm size steps too.
>
> I like the #1 - #80 dispenser (the most expensive one listed
> there.)
Penn Tool is a little cheaper for that part:
http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=6325
That is a nice one. I have it's little brother (#1 - #60) and the
fractional dispenser. Both are real time savers.
--Winston
Rich Grise
> On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 23:55:29 -0700, Rich Grise
>>>
>>>> Not that I've noticed in the set I have unless it is by a couple
>>>> tenths. (HSS, bright, Made in USA.)
>>>
>>> You didn't say what you paid for the set, but if you do any (read that
>>> as _ANY_) press fits or shrink fits, you'd notice in a big hurry.
>>>
>>But don't reamers cost a fortune?
>>
>
> "Complete" sets are indeed expensive, but normally you only
> need a few sizes. It can be useful to get three reamers,
> one undersize, one on size and one over size in your common
> sizes. Most any good mill supply should have in stock, but
> for illustration see
>
http://tool.wttool.com/search?p=KK&srid=S9-4&lbc=wttool&ts=custom&pw=reamer%20straight%20flute&uid=21976513&isort=score&view=grid&w=Chucking%20Reamer&rk=2
>
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/product/product_id/34395/product_name/7-Piece+Chucking+Reamer+Set+%28WT%29
>
how I should dimension a slip-fit, and a couple of real machinists told
me, "Oh, just say "slip-fit to so-and-so," and we'll figure it out." That
took off a lot of pressure. :-)
Thanks again,
Rich
DoN. Nichols
> DoN. Nichols wrote:
>
> (...)
>
>> O.K. Sort of what I expected. I find one line in the first one
>> interesting:
>>
>> ======================================================================
>> Number of Drawers: 3.000
>> ======================================================================
>>
>> They could offer some with an increment of 0.001 drawer? :-)
>
> An accurate *and* precise description; people still complain. :)
How do you define a non-integer count of drawers? By weight
compared to some standard drawer?
There is such a thing as excess precision. I knew a machinist
who did woodwork to 0.001" -- even knowing that it was going to change
when the next cloud blew by. :-)
He was doing it for himself, so he was free to do so -- but
doing it for someone else, and *charging* for the extra time and care
needed to reach that level of precision is another thing. Of course, if
the drawings *called* for that level of precision, everything would be
rejected by outgoing inspection anyway, unless the whole shop and
inspection area were climate controlled. :-)
> (...)
>
>> A little too expensive for me. I keep envelopes of the various
>> sized drills in order in a storage bin --
>
> One bonus of the drawers is that after I retrieve a bit, I can take
> one of it's mates and prop it up as a marker so that I can put
> the bit back in the proper bin quickly.
O.K. When I go to the bins of bit envelopes, that bit is going
into an index to replace the too-dull one as soon as its immediate job
is done.
> (...)
>
>> Interesting that they only list 0.5 mm size steps for the metric
>> drill bits. I've got two HUOT metric drill indexes with 0.1 mm steps.
>> I guess that Huot makes the dispensers in 0.1mm size steps too.
>>
>> I like the #1 - #80 dispenser (the most expensive one listed
>> there.)
>
> Penn Tool is a little cheaper for that part:
> http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=6325
O.K.
Yes -- quite a bit cheaper. And I see that *they*, at least,
list the smaller metric in steps of 0.1 mm -- though to cover the full
range that I have we still have problems -- because the 7.0 to 13.0 (in
the 1 mm to 13 mm case) is in steps of 0.5 mm. Hmm not using the 1.0 to
7.0, which give 13 extra spaces in that one, but I need 51 spaces for
the 7.0 to 12.0 which I actually have in an index -- and need to
re-label the drawers. Two of the 1 to 13 drawers should do it. The
question is whether the smaller end of the metric drawers would hold 7.0
mm or larger bits?
> That is a nice one. I have it's little brother (#1 - #60) and the
> fractional dispenser. Both are real time savers.
BTW Have you noticed the little hook on the left side of the
partition between the letter and number sizes in the 115 bit
HUOT indexes? Ever wondered what it is for? It turns out to be
just right to hold the HUOT #61-80 index, which I already had,
so I have a 125 bit index instead of 115 bit. :-)
I wonder which of the wire size ranges is covered by the
"Fractional, Wire & letter Dispensers"
And I wonder which of the drawer sets has been relabeled to make
the #1 to #80 (84 compartments) set. Since the price is the same as the
"Metric 1mm to 6.9 mm by 0.1 mm" set, and I suspect that they go by the
amount of metal used, they may be the same but for labeling. But the
metric set would use only 59 slots, not 84.
Enjoy,
Winston
> On 2011-03-24, Winston<Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote:
>> DoN. Nichols wrote:
>>
>> (...)
>>
>>> O.K. Sort of what I expected. I find one line in the first one
>>> interesting:
>>>
>>> ======================================================================
>>> Number of Drawers: 3.000
>>> ======================================================================
>>>
>>> They could offer some with an increment of 0.001 drawer? :-)
>>
>> An accurate *and* precise description; people still complain. :)
>
> How do you define a non-integer count of drawers? By weight
> compared to some standard drawer?
Either that or by determining what fraction of an additional bit
a given drawer could accommodate in relation to the average
drawer of the same size range. I will stop here because I do
not want the headache. :)
> There is such a thing as excess precision. I knew a machinist
> who did woodwork to 0.001" -- even knowing that it was going to change
> when the next cloud blew by. :-)
'Harmless Crazy'. I know it well.
> He was doing it for himself, so he was free to do so -- but
> doing it for someone else, and *charging* for the extra time and care
> needed to reach that level of precision is another thing. Of course, if
> the drawings *called* for that level of precision, everything would be
> rejected by outgoing inspection anyway, unless the whole shop and
> inspection area were climate controlled. :-)
(Insert sea story of machinists passing part inspection by
thermally growing the workpiece in hand on the way to QC.)
>
>> (...)
>>
>>> A little too expensive for me. I keep envelopes of the various
>>> sized drills in order in a storage bin --
>>
>> One bonus of the drawers is that after I retrieve a bit, I can take
>> one of it's mates and prop it up as a marker so that I can put
>> the bit back in the proper bin quickly.
>
> O.K. When I go to the bins of bit envelopes, that bit is going
> into an index to replace the too-dull one as soon as its immediate job
> is done.
Ah! I'm not that systematic.
:)
--Winston
Rich Grise
> On 2011-03-24, Winston <Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote:
>> DoN. Nichols wrote:
>> (...)
>>> O.K. Sort of what I expected. I find one line in the first one
>>> interesting:
>>> ======================================================================
>>> Number of Drawers: 3.000
>>> ======================================================================
>>> They could offer some with an increment of 0.001 drawer? :-)
>>
>> An accurate *and* precise description; people still complain. :)
>
> How do you define a non-integer count of drawers? By weight
> compared to some standard drawer?
>
and parts lists, it just means "exactly." (like "quantity required:
1.000) ;-)
BTW, today I saw Joe the Real Machinist turn an aluminum part down to plus
or minus half a thou or less. I was sitting here in my office, and he came
to my door, and said, "Hey, Rich, my dial caliper said I still have seven
thou to go, so I miked it and it's within a thou, but I think I can kiss
it down to dead nuts. My dial caliper is off by seven thou!" I said,
"Well, it's a good thing you stopped to check!"
I think he got it dead nuts, at least at room temperature. I think it's a
pride thing. :-)
Oh, just remembered - for lube he was using something that looks
and feels very much like 80 weight gear oil. And he had a brand-new
carbide insert in his bit holder in his tool holder.
Cheers!
Rich
Carla Fong
to see what size drill bit is appropriate... That reminded me of the
drill bit calculator we wrote a while ago - measure what you need with
your caliper, enter the dimension in the utility and it pops up nearest
drill size.
In addition to showing the next larger fractional, letter/number and
metric size drill bits corresponding to a decimal value input, plus the
next two larger and smaller drills - and the clearance, it now also
displays target RPM for a particular drill size,
It defaults to 60 SFPM (a good start for mild steel) and you can tweak
the value depending on the material being cut or drilled.
The executable is compressed in "Fractions.zip" and downloadable from
<http://www.carlafongphotography.com/utilities/> Shareware, so if it is
helpful to you, send us a couple of bucks.
Eventually I should upload it to the dropbox, but as long as I'm
updating occasionally it seems best to keep it on my site.
Carla
Winston Churchill once came to Virginia after WWII to attend the
unveiling of a bust honoring him at a local university. At the reception
afterwards this well-endowed southern belle pushed her way through the
crowd and came up to Churchill, where she told him that she had driven
all night over 200 miles to see the unveiling of his bust. Churchill
looked down at her chest and then up into her eyes and said "Madam, I
would have done the same for you!" No wonder why we love this guy.
Rich Grise
>
> Winston Churchill once came to Virginia after WWII to attend the
> unveiling of a bust honoring him at a local university. At the reception
> afterwards this well-endowed southern belle pushed her way through the
> crowd and came up to Churchill, where she told him that she had driven
> all night over 200 miles to see the unveiling of his bust. Churchill
> looked down at her chest and then up into her eyes and said "Madam, I
> would have done the same for you!" No wonder why we love this guy.
Silly me! When you said, "well-endowed," I thought you meant smart! ;-)
I once saw a t-shirt on a large-breasted woman that said, "I wish
these were brains!" (That's what the t-shirt said, she didn't have to
say a word.) ;-)
Cheers!
Rich
Winston
> Somebody mentioned measuring the hole and then checking the wall chart
> to see what size drill bit is appropriate... That reminded me of the
> drill bit calculator we wrote a while ago - measure what you need with
> your caliper, enter the dimension in the utility and it pops up nearest
> drill size.
>
> In addition to showing the next larger fractional, letter/number and
> metric size drill bits corresponding to a decimal value input, plus the
> next two larger and smaller drills - and the clearance, it now also
> displays target RPM for a particular drill size,
>
> It defaults to 60 SFPM (a good start for mild steel) and you can tweak
> the value depending on the material being cut or drilled.
>
> The executable is compressed in "Fractions.zip" and downloadable from
> <http://www.carlafongphotography.com/utilities/> Shareware, so if it is
> helpful to you, send us a couple of bucks.
You got my Paypal a few months ago, yes?
> Eventually I should upload it to the dropbox, but as long as I'm
> updating occasionally it seems best to keep it on my site.
Cool! I'm looking forward to it.
So far, I have an error running under wine (Ubuntu Linux)
Apparently it needs a helper program, because it alerted:
"import_dll Library MFC42.DLL".
*Further 'Feature Creep' Request:*
It'd be cool to have a dialog box revealing the 'cone depth'
for a given drill ground to a given angle.
For example:
A 0.25" diameter drill ground to 118 degrees included angle
will leave a full diameter through hole in a workpiece if
the point of the drill travels at least 0.0751" past the
bottom edge of a given workpiece. Less, and the hole
will have a conical cross section at the bottom.
This feature would be excellent for determining the thickness
of a sacrificial backing plate on a mill or drill press, for
instance.
--Winston
Carla Fong
Yes, I got your $$$ - Thanks!
You can download today's update (same URL) and see if the features you
requested do what you want... It defaults to a 118 degree drill point.
If you're using a different drill angle, change that first before
entering the decimal size, or enter the decimal size, tab to the drill
angle and then tab out of that to get it to recalculate cone depth.
<http://www.carlafongphotography.com/utilities/>
Carla
'When one engine fails on a twin-engine airplane you always have enough
power left to get you to the scene of the crash.'
Winston
(...)
> You can download today's update (same URL) and see if the features you
> requested do what you want... It defaults to a 118 degree drill point.
> If you're using a different drill angle, change that first before
> entering the decimal size, or enter the decimal size, tab to the drill
> angle and then tab out of that to get it to recalculate cone depth.
>
> <http://www.carlafongphotography.com/utilities/>
Thanks Carla.
I'd be happy to take this to e-mail:
My real addy is on the bottom of the first page of my website:
http://mysite.verizon.net/reswoead/index.html
Unfortunately we have the same issue.
"err:module:import_dll Library MFC42.DLL (which is needed by
L"Z:\\home\\len\\.wine\\drive_c\\Program_Files\\Fractions.exe") not
found
err:module:LdrInitializeThunk Main exe initialization for
L"Z:\\home\\len\\.wine\\drive_c\\Program_Files\\Fractions.exe"
failed, status c0000135"
I'm looking forward to your program!
--Winston
Leon Fisk
Winston <Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote:
<snip>
>Unfortunately we have the same issue.
>"err:module:import_dll Library MFC42.DLL (which is needed by
>L"Z:\\home\\len\\.wine\\drive_c\\Program_Files\\Fractions.exe") not
>found
>err:module:LdrInitializeThunk Main exe initialization for
>L"Z:\\home\\len\\.wine\\drive_c\\Program_Files\\Fractions.exe"
>failed, status c0000135"
Try looking here:
http://www.dlldump.com/dll-files/M_3.html
or specifically:
http://www.dlldump.com/download-dll-files_new.php/dllfiles/M/mfc42.dll/6.0.400/download.html
I have other versions around, if that one doesn't fly or you can do
your own web search for it.
Try putting it here (correct the ?winston? part first):
/home/?winston?/.wine/drive_c/windows/system32/mfc42.dll
or in the same directory as "Fractions.exe". The latter will fix the
problem this time, the former should fix it for any future woes...
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
Winston
Thanks Leon!
I've got many other windows programs that work great
under wine and I've been warned off loading third-party
.DLLs. I shall pass but I really appreciate your help.
--Winston
Leon Fisk
Winston <Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote:
>Leon Fisk wrote:
>> On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 00:00:48 -0700
>> Try looking here:
>>
>> http://www.dlldump.com/dll-files/M_3.html
>>
>> or specifically:
>>
>> http://www.dlldump.com/download-dll-files_new.php/dllfiles/M/mfc42.dll/6.0.400/download.html
>>
>> I have other versions around, if that one doesn't fly or you can do
>> your own web search for it.
>>
>> Try putting it here (correct the ?winston? part first):
>>
>> /home/?winston?/.wine/drive_c/windows/system32/mfc42.dll
>>
>> or in the same directory as "Fractions.exe". The latter will fix the
>> problem this time, the former should fix it for any future woes...
>
>Thanks Leon!
>
>I've got many other windows programs that work great
>under wine and I've been warned off loading third-party
>.DLLs. I shall pass but I really appreciate your help.
>
>--Winston
>
That (mfc42.dll) is a standard MS Windows file. The only hassle you
might have is finding a version that works with both Wine and
Fractions. For some more info (because I can see you're uneasy) see:
http://wiki.winehq.org/FAQ#head-2697b3c2437625eb387ae7360d9b224be0d20bce
I've downloaded numerous dll's from that site in years past when I was
still running WinNT4. No problems, other than finding the version I
needed...
Winston
Thanks again Leon!
--Winston
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:maudncgVyqjlnxPQ...@giganews.com:
> That reminded me of the
> drill bit calculator we wrote a while ago - measure what you need with
> your caliper, enter the dimension in the utility and it pops up nearest
> drill size.
>
The idea of using a computer to figure out which bit to use just leaves
me cold...
What's wrong with a simple wall chart?
*(and no... I am not a luddite... about to buy a new CNC lathe)*
LLoyd
Winston
> Carla Fong<carla_...@97381.com> fired this volley in
> news:maudncgVyqjlnxPQ...@giganews.com:
>
>> That reminded me of the
>> drill bit calculator we wrote a while ago - measure what you need with
>> your caliper, enter the dimension in the utility and it pops up nearest
>> drill size.
>>
>
> The idea of using a computer to figure out which bit to use just leaves
> me cold...
>
> What's wrong with a simple wall chart?
Carla's utility is growing to encompass the information
that machinists need in one place. It'll answer the most
critical questions we have about RPM and depth clearance
as well as the proper drill for a given tap size.
Think of it as a Grand Unified Wall Chart. :)
--Winston
Gerald Miller
Who has wall space for charts?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Jim Wilkins
> Leon Fisk wrote:
> ...>
> I've got many other windows programs that work great
> under wine and I've been warned off loading third-party
> .DLLs. I shall pass but I really appreciate your help.
I back up C: with the free Seagate or Western Digital version of True
Image before installing anything risky, including MS updates:
http://www.acronis.com/main.html
It runs from Windows if that still works, and it will create a
bootable floppy, CD/DVD or flash drive to restore a disk image to a
trashed or new drive.
jsw
Jim Wilkins
> ...>
> Who has wall space for charts?
> Gerry :-)}
I hang them on doors.
jsw
Carla Fong
Other folks may also be using Linux, so let's keep it here (and you get
to be the Guinea pig :)
I re-compiled it with the required routines from the DLL embedded into
the .exe file so it should work without any external dependencies. Still
at the same URL. <http://www.carlafongphotography.com/utilities/>
Let me know if this works on your Ubuntu system.
Carla
"The waitress had no trouble filling out her black lace blouse,
velveteen hot pants, and nosebleed heels, but she was a little long in
the tooth to be up on stage, and the shade of her blond hair wasn't on
God's original color palette." - Reed Farrel Colemar
Winston
Interesting!
Thanks Jim.
--Winston
Winston
(...)
> Let me know if this works on your Ubuntu system.
YES!
Works great under wine and Ubuntu!
Thanks, Carla!
--Winston
Michael A. Terrell
Who has that many doors? :)
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
jay
<MyNameForw...@ReplaceWithMyVices.Com.invalid> wrote:
> In article <imaj54$ro...@news.eternal-september.org>,
> "Bob La Londe" <onebike...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > To the OP. I have a couple of the 115 sets. I like being able to pick up
> > the decimal drill bit chart and then pick out a bit within a few thousandths
> > of of what I want every time.
>
> I have a budget Enco set of HSS - nothing fancy. When I wear out or
> break one, then it's time to consider getting a better drill bit (or
> bits) in that size. As such, the sizes I haven't used are not costing me
> much, but I have something in all sizes. If not budget constrained, or
> less hobby and more production, different economics may apply.
>
> > I've have/had a Tin, Cobalt, and HSS sets.
> > The cobalt coated do seem to last longer initially, but after they get a bit
> > worn they are all pretty much the same.
>
> TiN is coated. Cobalt is cobalt through and through - if sharpened
> properly, good as new. If you just run them dull and toss, different
> economics again.
>
> > The big thing is organization. A 115 pc set is wonderful until you push it
> > off the work bench once. The bigger sizes are no big deal, but all those
> > smaller number sizes are impossible to sort again.
>
> Easy as reading a micrometer. Something you can set the apprentice or
> kid on if you have one or the other and a slow period. Or do yourself,
> unless you bring in so much money that it's worthwhile to just buy a new
> set rather than take the time. Most places there's somebody who can be
> useful at least part of their time doing background tasks like sorting
> drill bits.
>
> --
> Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
> Easy as reading a micrometer. Something you can set the apprentice or
> kid on if you have one or the other and a slow period. Or do yourself,
> unless you bring in so much money that it's worthwhile to just buy a new
> set rather than take the time. Most places there's somebody who can be
> useful at least part of their time doing background tasks like sorting
> drill bits.
Yeah, like me. I don't make any $ anyway. Actually don't try.
However I was miking a spilled 115 piece cheap HSS Enco Chinese set
in a useless 30 ga. box. (Someone will probably tell me there's no
such thing as
30ga. tin, but they haven't seen my case.)
I found that most all were ~ 0.005 undersize. so for the hell of it I
miked
some older US made drills. They mostly came out to be 0.001” to
0.003”
under. None > 0.003" under. Comments? JD
DoN. Nichols
> On Mar 22, 12:14?pm, Ecnerwal
><MyNameForw...@ReplaceWithMyVices.Com.invalid> wrote:
>> In article <imaj54$ro...@news.eternal-september.org>,
[ ... ]
>> > The big thing is organization. ?A 115 pc set is wonderful until you push it
>> > off the work bench once. ?The bigger sizes are no big deal, but all those
>> > smaller number sizes are impossible to sort again.
>>
>> Easy as reading a micrometer. Something you can set the apprentice or
>> kid on if you have one or the other and a slow period. Or do yourself,
>> unless you bring in so much money that it's worthwhile to just buy a new
>> set rather than take the time. Most places there's somebody who can be
>> useful at least part of their time doing background tasks like sorting
>> drill bits.
[ ... ]
> Yeah, like me. I don't make any $ anyway. Actually don't try.
> However I was miking a spilled 115 piece cheap HSS Enco Chinese set
> in a useless 30 ga. box. (Someone will probably tell me there's no
> such thing as
> 30ga. tin, but they haven't seen my case.)
With a full load of bits, I would expect it to crumple in the
middle if you picked it up by the ends. :-)
> I found that most all were ~ 0.005 undersize. so for the hell of it I
> miked
> some older US made drills. They mostly came out to be 0.001? to
> 0.003?
> under. None > 0.003" under. Comments? JD
Where were you Micing the bits? They normally taper a little
being made widest at the tip -- so they don't drag on the sides as much
in a deep hole. If you mike at the shank, there is no certainty how
much smaller they will be -- but they are unlikely to be larger at the
shank, unless they are really weirdly constructed.